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D9 reads .612 & with the probes flipped, nothing
D10 reads .617 & with the probes flipped, 1.282
D11 reads .629 & with the probes flipped, 1.263
Oh yeah, I've soldered and unsoldered resistors, capacitors and transistors before.
R3 in diode mode reads 1.211 and flipped it reads .690
O.K.
For now leave D8 open as it is.
Please check the resistance between each speaker red(+)terminal and the wire we have cut from connector S1 .
Do it on the wire side connected to the main amp board (not to the S1 side of the cut).
DMM in 200K ohm range.
that is a total of 5 measurements.
What do we get?
For now leave D8 open as it is.
Please check the resistance between each speaker red(+)terminal and the wire we have cut from connector S1 .
Do it on the wire side connected to the main amp board (not to the S1 side of the cut).
DMM in 200K ohm range.
that is a total of 5 measurements.
What do we get?
O.K
it is fine.
We are left with the capacitors C6,C8 100uF each ,they should be low ESR type
In order to check them we should use a capacitance meter and/or an ESR meter.
You do have capacitance checking on your DMM but the max range is 20uF no real help here,(but we may get lucky if a cap value has dropped significantly).
In order to take the caps out, you have to remove the switch/indicator board.
Looks like the connectors are keyed ,but in any case ,note their location and direction.
First inspect the caps solder joints(could be a bad solder,if possible add a Photo).
Then take out the caps.
Check the caps on the DMM 20uF cap range.
What do we get?
it is fine.
We are left with the capacitors C6,C8 100uF each ,they should be low ESR type
In order to check them we should use a capacitance meter and/or an ESR meter.
You do have capacitance checking on your DMM but the max range is 20uF no real help here,(but we may get lucky if a cap value has dropped significantly).
In order to take the caps out, you have to remove the switch/indicator board.
Looks like the connectors are keyed ,but in any case ,note their location and direction.
First inspect the caps solder joints(could be a bad solder,if possible add a Photo).
Then take out the caps.
Check the caps on the DMM 20uF cap range.
What do we get?
Ok, i need to get some sleep again lol.
I'll get backntonyou again later when i have the board out with photos. Thanks!
Ok i got the Board out. How do i test them on the meter? I dont think the leads are long enough.
Attachments
The polarity doesn't mater.
Simply put the DMM in the 20u F(one position cw from the off) range and read the result.
Start with measuring the 10uF you have,so that we know the meter is working in the F range.
What does the 10uF read ?
What do the 100uF read?
What other caps in the range of 5-20uf do you have?
Do you have more than one 10uF?
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I dont get any readings with any of them. Even tried a 4.7uf
Attachments
I did, theres no readings. Maybe it doesn't work i guess.
Is there a way wencan continue without this test?
I guess assume the caps are faulty.
Buy new ones and put them in, then re-solder the cut wire and try the amp.
The caps should be low ESR type(lately also called "computer grade"").
Have you got a store near you that may have them?
And don't forget to clean the PCB.
Buy new ones and put them in, then re-solder the cut wire and try the amp.
The caps should be low ESR type(lately also called "computer grade"").
Have you got a store near you that may have them?
And don't forget to clean the PCB.
Yeah, i have a store near by. So most likely its bad capacitors causing this issue? Any other possibilities?
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