N
Norm Dresner
- Jan 1, 1970
- 0
Okay, SOS pads in the kitchen but what in the electronics lab?
TIA
Norm
TIA
Norm
Okay, SOS pads in the kitchen but what in the electronics lab?
TIA
Norm
Norm Dresner said:Okay, SOS pads in the kitchen but what in the electronics lab?
TIA
Norm
Dave Walsh said:All you need is here,
www.caig.com
Used in the pro audio world where clean pots are essential.
Dave W.
Norm Dresner said:I'll look for it when I get to the local "electronics" store but I'll
never visit the website again -- I have a "thing" about people who feel that
they have to play their music on my computer.
BTW, back in the '70s IIRC there was a product called (something like)
Cramolin. What ever happened to it? The EPA?
Thanks for the suggestion anyway
Norm
dissolved the resistive material inside many pots...thus permanently
destroying
the part.
This has always been a unsubstantiated rumor in my opinion, others can
disagree, mostly people that have never even used WD40, just read about the
problems and relaying the rumors that have little fact.
I'll tell my experience. Way back in 1978 when I started in the business we
used WD40, never ever hurt a thing, then used commercial tunerwash, never
hurt
a thing, then when CFCs were taken out of tunerwash it was suddenly very
risky
to use because it would desolve certain plastics ruining parts. We went back
to
WD40 which I still use today although rarely do pots come into the picture
with
newer equipment.
So in summary, I've cleaned many thousand pots and tuners with WD40 and I'd
recommend it.
I've cleaned dozens of pots, switches, and tuners (consumer parts and aerospace
parts) with WD40 (20 years ago). Stopped instantly when some of the parts
began disintegrating, and others failed due to the goo (wax) left behind after
the solvents evaporated.
I also used to use WD40 to lubricate automotive parts...such as door hinges and
latch/lock (not cylinders) mechanisms. Again, after a period of time, the goo
build-up became horrendous, and the goo seems to be the world's most perfect
dust/dirt attractor. After my truck's door latch mechanisms became virtually
immobile, I removed them, soaked in kerosene, washed in soap and water, and
then air-dried. This was almost 10 years ago. The doors feel and sound like
new. I've done this with several vehicles mistakenly "lubricated" with WD40
since, with the same results.
If you haven't had similar results with WD40, then you have been very lucky.
webpa
Okay, SOS pads in the kitchen but what in the electronics lab?
TIA
Norm
Old time TV repair guy here.Worked in a TV shop in the 60's and now
repair vintage electronics of all kinds(*except* TV's....don't like
high voltages anymore!) in my home based shop.
Many contact cleaners work well.Some are ridiculously overpriced
because the field lends itself to what is called "perceived value
marketing" and so few people understand chemical terms.
Many TV shops used WD-40 on a regular basis.I tested it
***extensively*** and was unable to force it (even in purposely large
quantities)to cause any significant residue build up.
In conversations with the WD-40 people they agree that excessive use
is not desirable in electronics but unless you use it every few weeks
or so ,you won't get a waxy build up problem.Many old timer ham
operators use WD-40 also.No problems even at high frequencies.
CRC contact cleaner and even CRC brake drum cleaner will work and
leave no residue.
Deantured (not isopropyl medical) alcohol works fairly well.
No cause for alarm with WD-40 though in any normal amount of usage.
Some very high priced contact cleaners consist of refined olive oil
with a fancy sounding name(Oleac acid)and traces of surfacants and
lighter(naptha) fluid and can cost you $20.00 a can.I cannot break a
trust by giving the product name in that case as a friend plans to
market it under a different name.
Malcolm Leonard
Old time TV repair guy here.Worked in a TV shop in the 60's and now
repair vintage electronics of all kinds(*except* TV's....don't like
high voltages anymore!) in my home based shop.