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PCB MKL90W-02-C1 / 0500-0515-2180

Discussion in 'PCB Layout, Design and Manufacture' started by Hallnbass, Jul 29, 2018.

  1. Hallnbass

    Hallnbass

    4
    4
    Jul 29, 2018
    Hi everyone this one is pretty obvious what the issue is but am wondering what the component is that burnt up. I found the new board online for around $50. I am wanting to try and fix it myself but ran in to the issue of finding the schematics for the board. In the photo I am trying to find out what the green what looks to be a capacitor ratings are. Any help would be appreciated.
     

    Attached Files:

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  2. Alec_t

    Alec_t

    2,514
    652
    Jul 7, 2015
    Welcome to EP!
    It may be a surge limiter rather than a capacitor. What are the board markings underneath it?
     
  3. Hallnbass

    Hallnbass

    4
    4
    Jul 29, 2018
    Thanks for the quick reply!! I can’t see any makings because it has burned the board. The photo I uploaded before is the best I could find online. And I think you are right about the surge limiter. I will keep looking for something better.
     
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  4. 73's de Edd

    73's de Edd

    2,483
    1,010
    Aug 21, 2015
    Sir Hallnbass . . . . .

    Testing . . .Testing . . 1 2 3 . . . .Testing . . . .
    Why fo' you do be makin' it mo' harder fo' us . . . by not initially be tellin' us that it be the power supply 'potion fo' a Viz-ee-ooo sound bar system. (WHEEEEEEEW . . . thats being my Eeeeee-bonics practice session for the month . . . 'lest I be loosin' my prooooo-ficiency)

    If you additionally had supplied an all encompassing closeup of the foil side of the bord, for evaluating the developed wiring routing, I suspect it might have revealed this path shown below . . . .

    With the OPTION of an across the line varistor, having NOT not being taken / installed down in the empty MOV-1 area, seems like the carbonized part would have been a series installed, in line NTC type of surgistor / thermistor.

    Also check to see if the rectangular black cased F1 line fuse is assuredly being totally blown open circuit now.

    The onliest way I can see the degree of damage inflicted was the taking on of a 4 billion volt lightning strike to the power line service to the house, towards the house side.
    OR . . . . if the black cased 4 full wave bridge rectifier diodes are all dead shorted , however, I can't see the damage inflicted upon the varistor components blackened area, before the MINIMUM time required for the 3.15 ampere F1 to have open circuited itself.
    OR . . . . YELLOW block safety capacitor is being dead shorted.

    Give us a foil path closeup and hopefully, then all will be answered . . . about the unit being a series inserted thermistor aspect.

    ILLUSTRATIONAL BLOWUP:

    [​IMG]

    73's de Edd
    .....
     
    Richard9025 likes this.
  5. dave9

    dave9

    578
    120
    Mar 5, 2017
    NTC (negative temperature coefficient) thermistor.
     
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  6. Alec_t

    Alec_t

    2,514
    652
    Jul 7, 2015
    Maybe it's a camera artifact, but it looks as though the left-most coil of that 4-coil filter LF2 has a fried part at the top?
     
  7. Hallnbass

    Hallnbass

    4
    4
    Jul 29, 2018
    Sorry for the lack of information provided I am new to this site. Yes it is for a Vizio sound bar model s4251w-b4. As far as it burning out not exactly sure what happened. I have been using the thing for years now but it decided to burn out. I had it connected to a surge protector 6 line plug with my Xbox and TV also plugged in. The sound bar was the only one to take damage so not sure how it happened. Attached is the photo requested and thanks for the input.
     

    Attached Files:

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  8. Hallnbass

    Hallnbass

    4
    4
    Jul 29, 2018
    It looks like it was just some glue I will try to test it out when I am at work in the morning where all my tools are.
     
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  9. 73's de Edd

    73's de Edd

    2,483
    1,010
    Aug 21, 2015
    Sir Hallnbass . . . . .

    The PCB board scorch /burn around the component took some time to occur, with slight scorching developing over years of use.
    If a lightning hit was involved it should only be related to popping other components , like the cap mentioned plus the four diodes or the POWER semi mounted to the large heat sink at the center of the board.
    Looking at Vizios uses of thermistors, in their other power supplies designs , equivalent to your units power needs, it looks like they zeroed in on a 2.5 ohm unit at a max peak 6A rating.
    This unit referenced below equates with that spec which initializes at being at a 120 ohm resistance , when stone cold, power passage and device warmup temperature then slides that on down to a 2.5 ohm resistance at a 20% load factor and even further down to as low as 0.15 ohms at 50% loading.
    It has a larger pellet /slug element and should run cooler than your original did.

    https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Ametherm/SL15-2R506?qs=PVyXUKBeRH0GHp90LRoCjQ==

    And here is the Delay Bel Fuse unit . . . . .

    https://www.mouser.com/Bel/Circuit-...eads-Through-Hole/_/N-ba8hh?P=1yuylg1Z1z0x70w


    After you have weeded out and replaced all of the bad components be SURE to use a 60 watt incandescent lamp in series with the AC line or in place of the fuse, on your initial trial power up testing


    73's de Edd
    .....
     
    Last edited: Jul 30, 2018
  10. nevans54

    nevans54

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    Oct 2, 2018
    Came across this thread in trying to repair my own Vizio sound bar... model S4221W-C4.
    The power supply looks quite similar to Hallnbass's. Mine is model MKL90W-02A-C1

    Not sure if my NTC Thermistor is good or not? I set my multimeter to 200 Ω and it reads about 2.4. Now, I only know enough to be dangerous with electronics, quite new at it, so I could be speaking nonsense. My thermistor is intact and is marked MSR11D 2R5A05. (Pictures attached)

    That fuse right next to it seems fine.

    I had my soundbar plugged in with power for years. We went away for about a week, so I turned off my surge protector to my entertainment system. When I came back, I flipped the switch, and now the soundbar will not power on. (Everything else on that surge protector works fine)

    I checked the other end of the board, and I am not getting 24V, but I am getting 5V where the board indicates, but nothing at the standby (see pic)

    Any idea based on that info of what I should check/replace?

    Thanks in advance!

    UPDATE -
    I'm still getting 120v past the thermistor and the fuse here IMG_3083 copy.jpg ... so something more else down the line must be the problem.


    IMG_3083.jpg IMG_3082.jpg IMG_3081.jpg IMG_3079.jpg IMG_3080.jpg
     
    Last edited: Oct 3, 2018
    wildatheart1123 likes this.
  11. Richard J

    Richard J

    1
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    Oct 7, 2018
    I just like to know where you found the board as I can't find whats wrong with mine. I tried can't find pc board any were MKL90w-02-c1 has no 24v 5 v ok
     
    wildatheart1123 likes this.
  12. chod0156

    chod0156

    2
    2
    Dec 13, 2018
    I also would like to know where you found a board MKL90W-02-C1
     
    wildatheart1123 likes this.
  13. chod0156

    chod0156

    2
    2
    Dec 13, 2018
    Speaker will not power up. Was dropped and whammo. put in C21 capacitor but still wont power up. Some say theres a fuse not sure where it is at on board HELP
     
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  14. wildatheart1123

    wildatheart1123

    2
    0
    Dec 29, 2018
    So...my Vizio Sound Bar stopped working last week. It has been great for years! I unplug it and let it sit for a few minutes, and when I plug it back in, the standby light comes on...but when I hit the power button, it lights up for 1 second and then the whole bar shuts off!!!:(

    I took it all apart looking for anything obvious that was "bad" and nothing stood out.

    I search and search for answers, but none...and trying to find the board is evidently a matter of national security somewhere!!!:mad:

    The number on my board 0500-0515-2180 is evidently discontinued...the only place I came close was www.encompass.com. I found a part with the MKL90W-02-C1, part number 0500-0515-2070, but there were no pictures or description, and when I talked to them, they didn't have a list of the systems it was compatible with. I could search by Manufacturer, and found my Vizio model #S4251wB4, but the power board for sale, 0500-0515-20600, looks NOTHING like the board I have!

    AHHHHH...why does this have to be so difficult!?! :mad::confused:

    Having taken apart my system a second time, I thought I would test connection with my meter...mind you, it is basic, and I have no idea of what I am doing!! At one point I did a live chat with Vizio...they know nothing!!!! Except, they asked me if I did the factory reset?...hmmmm, I thought leaving the power disconnected WAS the reset…so I wrote what she said down!;)

    Well, in the midst of all my "testing", lol, I thought why not?! I did the reset, but having the system TOTALLY apart, I had no clue if it worked or not?!?o_O

    Initially, I had nothing...but after doing the "reset" several times, the power light stayed on when I power up!!! But no sound?? Discovered BT worked and heard music on the whole system!!! I went on the find I plugged the board with connections wrong into the main board! Whah la...Music has filled the house again and I think I need a good movie tonight to recover from the Christmas week!!:cool:

    Oh...the reset...ha-ha...HOLD THE "VOLUME DOWN" BUTTON AND THE "BLUETOOTH" BUTTON DOWN FOR 5 SECONDS!!!
    :)

    Hope this helps someone!!:rolleyes:
     
  15. wildatheart1123

    wildatheart1123

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    Dec 29, 2018
    HAHAHAHA...that only lasted 5 days!!! :mad:
     
  16. RacerX

    RacerX

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    Jan 4, 2019
    Hello,

    This is my first post here, I hope I can help on this forum someday. But, I am also here with my Vizio s4251w-b4 soundbar torn apart. It was my daily TV speaker for the last 4+ years and it just stopped working today. Mine has no visible damage to any of the three boards in it. I would replace it but local stores don't really have any this size that are 5.1 surround and I do not want to adjust the height of my TV for a smaller soundbar. I tried the reset mentioned above and unfortunately it did not help. I was thinking of the response from 73's about replacing the Delay Bel fuse, but I also am getting 110 volts past the fuse like in the picture posted by nevans54. I also am not testing at 24volts on the other end of the board. I see the boards for sale when I google the part number, but is there not a single IC or something on this that converts 110 to the 24 and 5V?
     
    Last edited: Jan 4, 2019
  17. RacerX

    RacerX

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    Jan 4, 2019
    I got it fixed!! I want to thank a poster in another forum that goes by the name Rynomilner!! It was the capacitor in C21 that needed replaced. It was not bulged or odd looking in any way. And I also have some very good news for lots of people who read this forum. When I needed a 470u capacitor I was thinking of how much I miss Radio Shack. I decided to go to the Radioshack.com to see if they still sell items by mail order. It had a search for Radio Shack stores? I put in my zip code just for the heck of it. It ends up Hobby Town stores have a Radio Shack Express in them!! I drove to Hobby Town and they had about a 10' wall loaded with all of the little important parts that Radio Shack carried like all the little switches, capacitors, resistors, etc. I think I am more excited about knowing that Radio Shack sort of still exists then I am about getting my soundbar repaired.
     
  18. RacerX

    RacerX

    3
    0
    Jan 4, 2019
    Long live Optimus speakers!!
     
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