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PCB MKL90W-02-C1 / 0500-0515-2180

Martaine2005

May 12, 2015
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Hi MichaelJ,
The reset procedure is more than likely done on the equipment rather than remotely.
C21 is also more than likely a ‘no pwer up’ situation from the power supply.
But great responces in most of the posts.

Martin
 

MichaelJ

May 24, 2019
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May 24, 2019
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Well I tried the "RESET" which did not seem to have any affect on the symptoms, so I will try to locate the capacitor mentioned and replace it. The circumstances do indicate a breakdown in an electrolytic cap when power is turned on; at least that was what I learned some 50 years ago.
 

DTMAce

Jun 3, 2019
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First time on this forum as well. I too am working on a MKL90W-02-C1.

Ours has a similar history. Worked for several years, then suddenly died. C21 is swollen on top, which indicates its possibly bad. However, I have also noticed that R13 on the opposite side of the board is burnt. Problem is, I have no idea what the resistor value was supposed to be. Does anyone have access to theirs that could possibly check that value. I have been crawling around for diagrams and such, but with no luck. Or can point me to a proper photo of the bottom with enough detail to see the tiny print for the value of R13. It located on the "HOT" side of the board, almost directly in the middle between the two big mounting holes, right next to R24. I'm assuming its probably a low ohm acting as a fuse.

Any help would be appreciated!

Thank you.

Update:

One of the photo's on this thread when blown up looks like it has UA printed on R13? Surely that can't be right. Turned around doesn't help either. Anyway, thanks for any help if someone knows what that is supposed to be.
 
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ketterling

Jul 2, 2019
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... I have also noticed that R13 on the opposite side of the board is burnt. ... a proper photo of the bottom with enough detail to see the tiny print for the value of R13.

I took a pic of R13 of my board. Just to be certain my board matches yours, I also included an image of the information on my board's front side. I hope this helps.
 

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ketterling

Jul 2, 2019
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I, too, have a Vizio soundbar that doesn't work. I think the model number is JC-1, but the number next to that is 1936-1101-6421 F.

Like wildatheart, my soundbar will display the power light when it's initially plugged in, but all lights go out when I try to power it on. The boards look pristine to me -- no bulging capacitors, and no burn spots. I haven't replaced C21 yet, but that's my only option at this point. I have a multi-meter, but I know almost nothing about safely testing boards. Any advice would be welcomed.
 

DTMAce

Jun 3, 2019
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I took a pic of R13 of my board. Just to be certain my board matches yours, I also included an image of the information on my board's front side. I hope this helps.

Thanks for that. I went ahead and replaced C21, since it was swollen a tiny bit on top. That actually fixed it, funny enough. Working fine again.

I haven't replaced C21 yet

I'd say, go ahead and get that replaced. Make sure you get the same size and voltage (16v - 470microfarads). And when replacing it, make sure you line up the - side correctly, (use a photo of the old one first) before removing. The minus side is the leg that lines up with the light colored strip with - symbols in it. It will also be a shorter leg than the + side.
 

73's de Edd

Aug 21, 2015
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ToWhomsoeverITMAyConcern
( Since I couldn't positively ascertain which party of the first party . . .twice removed . . .was having the " R13 problem " .

If its the " R13 " resistor(s) aspect being in question ?
I now submit you this " NASA ficated " enhancement , being just up to the sub pixelation threshold.
Here we can see three 2.2 ohm surface mount resistors that are all paralleled to acquire multiple wattage rating equivalency. ( The sole 2.4 is not critical, use all 2.2's . . .as I suspicion they probably run out of that supply and had to use a close sub.)
Then they are having a shift down in their effective resistance, with it now being ~0.73333-> ohms (+- 5 hunnerts %)
They are functioning as the emitter resistor of the power semiconductor just above them. ( Pass its marking ID on to us, as a POWER FET is being equally possible..).
Check and see if all three of them are not being open circuit, or if only one is smoked, suspicion that the first one,then the second opened up and by then, the third one couldn't take all of the overloading, smoked his tires and said . . . . . . " I'm outta here ! "
That would sort of suggest that power semi above, is being HARD crunch shorted in its C-E junction.

It may just be an optical " collusion " . . . .but check out the YELLOW circled leads of that E-cap and be sure that there are no floating leads / fractured solder rings.

ENHANCED PHOTO REFERENCING . . . . .

upload_2019-7-1_21-31-51.png






ADDENDA:

A further scanning of that boards resistive components reveals that those " FEWLS " have additionally used / assigned a basic R13 for a 3900 ohm resistor, elsewhere .
BUT . . . .it is being used in disassociative circuitry, and it would have had to have been subjected to continous >50 volts across it for it to have started a timely failure decline.

upload_2019-7-1_22-8-6.png


73's de Edd . . . . .


I've used up all my vacation and sick days leave , so I'm calling in dead.
 
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ketterling

Jul 2, 2019
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I'm glad that was your suggestion. Not having any experience with this forum until tonight, I wasn't sure how long a reply would take. I have experience replacing capacitors, so I swapped it while I was waiting ... I even had one from a previous fix (I always bought extras). Worked like a charm!! It always amazes me that a $0.25 part can keep a $200 piece of electronics from working. And thank you for the quick response!
 

ketterling

Jul 2, 2019
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The photo of the resistors in question could not be uploaded in good quality, but I read the numbers to be 2R20, 2R20, and 2R40. Note that one is different from the others. I've included a cropped photo to be clear.
 

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davenn

Moderator
Sep 5, 2009
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The photo of the resistors in question could not be uploaded in good quality, but I read the numbers to be 2R20, 2R20, and 2R40. Note that one is different from the others. I've included a cropped photo to be clear.


2.2 Ohms and 2.4 Ohms respectively
 

David00

Aug 13, 2019
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Aug 13, 2019
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Hi, I just joined the forum to say thanks and also to share my experience with the same board from my Vizio soundbar.

Symptoms:
- The small white standby light on the speaker face cover would not turn on.
- Testing the 10-pin 24v/5v DC connector leads on the output side of the board did not show any power readings
- Upon physical inspection (thanks to you guys... I probably would have missed this without it being mentioned several times in this thread), I found that the top of capacitor C21 was swelled outwards.

C21 is a 16v 470uF (microFarad) capacitor. I desoldered the old one and put on the new one (make sure you have the polarity correct!), and that resolved the problems.

Re-testing the 10-pin header, I found that the 24v DC pins do not turn on unless the soundbar itself is turned on. The 5v pins do output power regardless of whether the soundbar is in standby mode or fully on.

I never really used the Bluetooth functionality of the soundbar, but that was the first input type I tested after replacing the capacitor to ensure that the speakers were playing properly. I noticed that at high output volumes (Bluetooth only), the playback becomes choppy and fragmented. This does not happen when using a cable in the 3.5mm input port. Not a huge deal for me because you really start to hear the limitations of the speakers and enclosures themselves at that output level, but I just wanted to share.

Thanks to all for this informative thread!
 

YetAnotherCap

Sep 4, 2019
2
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Sep 4, 2019
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Got the same PCB, I'm like 90% I got the same Cap issue (C21) and possibly C22 has popped as well. I ordered some replacement caps online but while I wait for their delivery I have a question.

Should I worry about the PCB still having a charge in the existing caps? Is there an easy way to discharge it or should I just dive in with desoddering/replacing the popped ones?

Like someone else said higher up in this thread I know just enough to be dangerous
 

73's de Edd

Aug 21, 2015
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The one cap that is most likely to " sting " you is being the large black one to the right of LF2 and it would bleed down overnight. As well as your two other units ,in their being MUCH lower voltage units.
 

YetAnotherCap

Sep 4, 2019
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Sep 4, 2019
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The one cap that is most likely to " sting " you is being the large black one to the right of LF2 and it would bleed down overnight. As well as your two other units ,in their being MUCH lower voltage units.
Cool cool thank you for that info.

Just wanted to make an update: My caps arrived in the mail and it turned out i didn't need to replace C22. After replacing C21 and testing it out by plugging everything back in my Sound Bar is now working. It's due to this thread that I've saved $200+ so thanks to all you people that were chatting about it here.

and just some extra info for anyone else that might come across this in the future: Someone mentions it above that sometimes the popped capacitor doesn't even look like it did, & my C21 cap had almost no visible bulging whatsoever. Nothing in the grooves but the flat panels at a TINY bit of "puff" to them so I really just took a shot in the dark with ordering the replacment cap and soldering it in. It worked for me. Best of luck to y'all.
 

erikaubry

Sep 13, 2019
1
Joined
Sep 13, 2019
Messages
1
2.2 Ohms and 2.4 Ohms respectively
What wattage those surface mount resistors should be
ToWhomsoeverITMAyConcern
( Since I couldn't positively ascertain which party of the first party . . .twice removed . . .was having the " R13 problem " .

If its the " R13 " resistor(s) aspect being in question ?
I now submit you this " NASA ficated " enhancement , being just up to the sub pixelation threshold.
Here we can see three 2.2 ohm surface mount resistors that are all paralleled to acquire multiple wattage rating equivalency. ( The sole 2.4 is not critical, use all 2.2's . . .as I suspicion they probably run out of that supply and had to use a close sub.)
Then they are having a shift down in their effective resistance, with it now being ~0.73333-> ohms (+- 5 hunnerts %)
They are functioning as the emitter resistor of the power semiconductor just above them. ( Pass its marking ID on to us, as a POWER FET is being equally possible..).
Check and see if all three of them are not being open circuit, or if only one is smoked, suspicion that the first one,then the second opened up and by then, the third one couldn't take all of the overloading, smoked his tires and said . . . . . . " I'm outta here ! "
That would sort of suggest that power semi above, is being HARD crunch shorted in its C-E junction.

It may just be an optical " collusion " . . . .but check out the YELLOW circled leads of that E-cap and be sure that there are no floating leads / fractured solder rings.
What wattage and ppm would you recommend using for those 2.2ohm resistors?
 

linarts

May 11, 2020
1
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May 11, 2020
Messages
1
my 1st time on a forum .. I need to purchase the c21 and c22 capacitor for the 0500-0515-2180 can someone please direct me ...
 

JaberJaw

Dec 28, 2020
1
Joined
Dec 28, 2020
Messages
1
Thank you to everyone on this thread! You just saved me at least $200!

I had a similar experience as a lot of you. My sound bar had been working for years with now issues - then one day it just stopped working. I took out the power board and examined it - I couldn't find anything wrong with it. I typed in MKL90W-02-C1 in google and ended up here.

I looked at my C21 and it looked fine. No bloating or burn marks or anything. I pulled out the logic board and everything else. EVERYTHING looked fine! So I thought, what the hell, I'll try to replace C21.

I didn't have a 16v - 470uF, but I did have a 50v - 470uF, so I thought, let's give this a try.... AND IT WORKED!!

Thank you all!
 
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