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Solder onto wirewrap board

G

GT

Jan 1, 1970
0
I have a prototype board and it has a grid of holes that are spaced 100-mil
a part
http://www.digilentinc.com/Data/Products/XC2/XC2-brochure.pdf

I want to solder a buffers and then LEDs to the board. I want to solder in
the IC-socket and then have LEDS next to it and connect the LEDs to the
socket pins as needed. Problem is: I can not fit the IC-socket and a wire in
the same hole or for that matter an LED leg an a wire in the same hole. What
is the best way then to wire this up then? Should I solder the IC-socket in
and also solder in the LEDs in the row next to it and then just connect a
wire from each solder joint (that is rather than have the wire in the hole
actually just have the wire soldered on the solder-joint of each connection.

Thanks for any advice.
 
T

Tom Biasi

Jan 1, 1970
0
GT said:
I have a prototype board and it has a grid of holes that are spaced 100-mil
a part
http://www.digilentinc.com/Data/Products/XC2/XC2-brochure.pdf

I want to solder a buffers and then LEDs to the board. I want to solder in
the IC-socket and then have LEDS next to it and connect the LEDs to the
socket pins as needed. Problem is: I can not fit the IC-socket and a wire
in
the same hole or for that matter an LED leg an a wire in the same hole.
What
is the best way then to wire this up then? Should I solder the IC-socket
in
and also solder in the LEDs in the row next to it and then just connect a
wire from each solder joint (that is rather than have the wire in the hole
actually just have the wire soldered on the solder-joint of each
connection.

Thanks for any advice.
Hi,
The board is designed to do precisely what you suggested, use a hole for
each connection.
You could buy IC sockets with long leads such as those used in wire wrap,
solder the IC lead at the pad and then solder other components to the long
lead and then cut the lead flush with the solder joint.
Regards,
Tom
 
R

Rich Grise

Jan 1, 1970
0
I have a prototype board and it has a grid of holes that are spaced
100-mil a part
http://www.digilentinc.com/Data/Products/XC2/XC2-brochure.pdf
.... Should I solder the
IC-socket in and also solder in the LEDs in the row next to it and then
just connect a wire from each solder joint (that is rather than have the
wire in the hole actually just have the wire soldered on the solder-joint
of each connection.

I've done whole prototypes on that type of board. Here's some advice.
First, just solder two corner pins of the IC socket, power and ground.
(7 & 14, 8 & 16, 10 & 20, you get the picture), then the bypass cap,
probably at the ground end, then connect power and ground.

For wire, I got a spool of #30 wire-wrap wire, and I use the little
stripper tab from one of those hand wire-wrap tools, that has a
wrapper at one end, an unwrapper at the other, and in the middle,
a hole with a little piece of spring steel with a slot that's just
the right size to strip the insulation without nicking the wire.
Strip about 3/16" (4 mm) from the end, and with a tweezers, wind
it around the socket pin, then solder.

Don't forget the current-limiting resistors for the LEDs. There
are resistor packs with 4 individual resistors, from pin 1 to 2,
pin 3 to 4, etc. They're awfully handy for that sort of thing.
Or, by bending one lead of the resistor into a "J", you can
stand up the resistor and use two adjacent holes.

Use at least a 10 uF bypass to ground at the Vcc side of the
LEDs, in addition to at least one more 0.01 to 0.1 uF. (IOW,
put the two caps in parallel).

Hope This Helps!
Rich
 
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