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Solder onto wirewrap board

Discussion in 'Electronic Basics' started by GT, May 16, 2005.

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  1. GT

    GT Guest

    I have a prototype board and it has a grid of holes that are spaced 100-mil
    a part

    I want to solder a buffers and then LEDs to the board. I want to solder in
    the IC-socket and then have LEDS next to it and connect the LEDs to the
    socket pins as needed. Problem is: I can not fit the IC-socket and a wire in
    the same hole or for that matter an LED leg an a wire in the same hole. What
    is the best way then to wire this up then? Should I solder the IC-socket in
    and also solder in the LEDs in the row next to it and then just connect a
    wire from each solder joint (that is rather than have the wire in the hole
    actually just have the wire soldered on the solder-joint of each connection.

    Thanks for any advice.
  2. Tom Biasi

    Tom Biasi Guest

    The board is designed to do precisely what you suggested, use a hole for
    each connection.
    You could buy IC sockets with long leads such as those used in wire wrap,
    solder the IC lead at the pad and then solder other components to the long
    lead and then cut the lead flush with the solder joint.
  3. Rich Grise

    Rich Grise Guest

    I've done whole prototypes on that type of board. Here's some advice.
    First, just solder two corner pins of the IC socket, power and ground.
    (7 & 14, 8 & 16, 10 & 20, you get the picture), then the bypass cap,
    probably at the ground end, then connect power and ground.

    For wire, I got a spool of #30 wire-wrap wire, and I use the little
    stripper tab from one of those hand wire-wrap tools, that has a
    wrapper at one end, an unwrapper at the other, and in the middle,
    a hole with a little piece of spring steel with a slot that's just
    the right size to strip the insulation without nicking the wire.
    Strip about 3/16" (4 mm) from the end, and with a tweezers, wind
    it around the socket pin, then solder.

    Don't forget the current-limiting resistors for the LEDs. There
    are resistor packs with 4 individual resistors, from pin 1 to 2,
    pin 3 to 4, etc. They're awfully handy for that sort of thing.
    Or, by bending one lead of the resistor into a "J", you can
    stand up the resistor and use two adjacent holes.

    Use at least a 10 uF bypass to ground at the Vcc side of the
    LEDs, in addition to at least one more 0.01 to 0.1 uF. (IOW,
    put the two caps in parallel).

    Hope This Helps!
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