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RCA Projection TV: P52152ST

J

John

Jan 1, 1970
0
I've had this RCA 52" Projection tv P52152ST for about 10 years now.
Its served me well and its not used that often, sparsley if at all but
sometimes more than others. For the last week its been making popping
and squealing noises and taking longer than usual to warm up. Today it
turns on for about 30 secs with all the popping, after that it goes
*click* *click* *click* and turns off. Sounds like the Overload
Protection Circuit kicked in or something. I'm a computer technician
and i know next to nothing about tv's but i looked around the circuit
board and there was NOTHING burnt, all fuses in place etc... I can
distinctly hear that squealing from the back. What does it sound like?
Big Job?
 
B

BWL

Jan 1, 1970
0
Could be several things, most of them expensive to repair/replace.
1)HV splitter was arcing (the popping), and continuing to use the set has now
blown the horizontal output, causing the power supply to go into overload
shutdown (the squealing)
2) One or more (probably more) of the CRT coolant chambers is leaking, and the
fluid has contaminated the anode caps on the CRT(s), causing the arcing, which
has led to shorted horizontal output.
3) IHVT was arcing due to failed insulation, and continued running of the set
has caused shorted horizontal output.
Any of these problems will require experienced tech to repair.
 
J

John

Jan 1, 1970
0
Could be several things, most of them expensive to repair/replace.
1)HV splitter was arcing (the popping), and continuing to use the set has now
blown the horizontal output, causing the power supply to go into overload
shutdown (the squealing)
2) One or more (probably more) of the CRT coolant chambers is leaking, and the
fluid has contaminated the anode caps on the CRT(s), causing the arcing, which
has led to shorted horizontal output.
3) IHVT was arcing due to failed insulation, and continued running of the set
has caused shorted horizontal output.
Any of these problems will require experienced tech to repair.

I was told today that it was a High Voltage board and it would cost
450 dollars to repair. Is this about right or am I being ripped?
 
B

BWL

Jan 1, 1970
0
Check to see if this set has a CTC169 Chassis (label on rear of set will
indicate either PTK169 or CTC169 on tag on chassis itself; if it is, this set
does not have a "high voltage board"; get more info about exactly what is wrong
with set, or find another repair service. $450 is on the high end fro repairs
on this set, which has a number of known and correctable faults, none of which
(with the possible exception of multiple leaking CRT's with associated H.V. and
board contamination) should cost that much to repair. Caveat Emptor!!!
 
J

Jason D.

Jan 1, 1970
0
I was told today that it was a High Voltage board and it would cost
450 dollars to repair. Is this about right or am I being ripped?

A touch high and statment from that shop makes me wonder.

High voltage is HV for short btw.

There is no such as high voltage board, that's singular purpose. That
chassis has combined items (micro this is "tiny computer on a chip for
user control and tv operation), video audio etc. Also on same board,
vertical and horizontal deflection circuits, horizontal also is part
of that generates HV output). This chassis is a older but very nice
and weird chassis: CTC169. Looks like shop may not be famillar with
it since this is been not in production for nearly 10 years but parts
are still available from RCA.

The description you gave me about the dying sounds right and not too
major. Major things like especially for projectors is changing
coolant or change a CRT in it, lot of work to reconvergence afterwards
but this is not like this. I think this lightbox also have fiberboard
shield that slopes inwards that had all wires go under and sides of it
to the three tubes and stuff. This one doesn't have coolant spill
issue if it has that shield feature.

Anyway to the point, Sounds like this shop may be not famillar enough
with this oldie and went for board swap. I don't like this way since
while back had went through this screw up. A fly by night shop
swapped in wrong mainboard in one of those 169 but luckily I had a
scrap chassis has correct board and respliced few wires that was cut.
I was surprised it worked at all before and after.

If you choose to do so, I'd consider doing:

Take chassis with you to another shop that is RCA authorized servicer
and have it estimated. I bet a decent shop should able to indentify
faults as HV splitter quickly. HV splitter is a black block with 5
red cables plugged in, it is frequent failures for 169 and other few
chassis from RCA in that vintage that use same HV splitter blocks and
bit fussy to change because of small rubber sleeves on wires is what
keeps HV from leaking out and stablizes HV wires from wiggling around
causing failures & ozone stink, also with care not to get wires from
bent while installlng wires back in.) along with few capacitors change
in power supply, should always do it regardless for that 169. That's
not major job, it is routine job for us and usually charge between
200-250 (minor, quickie jobs) to medium jobs (like yours for 350 or
so, note that cost is in canadian dollars.

Cheers,

Wizard
 
J

John

Jan 1, 1970
0
A touch high and statment from that shop makes me wonder.

High voltage is HV for short btw.

There is no such as high voltage board, that's singular purpose. That
chassis has combined items (micro this is "tiny computer on a chip for
user control and tv operation), video audio etc. Also on same board,
vertical and horizontal deflection circuits, horizontal also is part
of that generates HV output). This chassis is a older but very nice
and weird chassis: CTC169. Looks like shop may not be famillar with
it since this is been not in production for nearly 10 years but parts
are still available from RCA.

The description you gave me about the dying sounds right and not too
major. Major things like especially for projectors is changing
coolant or change a CRT in it, lot of work to reconvergence afterwards
but this is not like this. I think this lightbox also have fiberboard
shield that slopes inwards that had all wires go under and sides of it
to the three tubes and stuff. This one doesn't have coolant spill
issue if it has that shield feature.

Anyway to the point, Sounds like this shop may be not famillar enough
with this oldie and went for board swap. I don't like this way since
while back had went through this screw up. A fly by night shop
swapped in wrong mainboard in one of those 169 but luckily I had a
scrap chassis has correct board and respliced few wires that was cut.
I was surprised it worked at all before and after.

If you choose to do so, I'd consider doing:

Take chassis with you to another shop that is RCA authorized servicer
and have it estimated. I bet a decent shop should able to indentify
faults as HV splitter quickly. HV splitter is a black block with 5
red cables plugged in, it is frequent failures for 169 and other few
chassis from RCA in that vintage that use same HV splitter blocks and
bit fussy to change because of small rubber sleeves on wires is what
keeps HV from leaking out and stablizes HV wires from wiggling around
causing failures & ozone stink, also with care not to get wires from
bent while installlng wires back in.) along with few capacitors change
in power supply, should always do it regardless for that 169. That's
not major job, it is routine job for us and usually charge between
200-250 (minor, quickie jobs) to medium jobs (like yours for 350 or
so, note that cost is in canadian dollars.

Cheers,

Wizard


My Chassis is a ptk169.

Yeah, This is the shop that is doing the work for me, (they're not
RCA Authorized but they fixed my 27" Sony Wega Tv pretty well)

http://www.google.com/local?hl=en&l...658611,-73641666,40656274,-73647261&oi=locald
..

Anyways, I used to work at a repair shop that IS RCA authorized, I
could probly get a second opinion from them and they might be able to
help me out if i was getting really ripped off. The thing is though,
I'll try to get a more detailed diagnosis from the current repair
shop. They wanted 435 bux as the price. I saw that those prices in
CANADIAN were less so, it makes me think. As soon as i get a detailed
diagnosis i'll be back here. I'd really like to knock that price down
alot, doesn't seem fair to me.

I'll keep alla yous posted.
 
J

John

Jan 1, 1970
0
*snip*

Well, I called the shop and being a former television repair
receptionist myself they divulged that "The Technicians are know what
they do" and "The entire High Voltage board will not be replace that
much espensive" . So they are salvaging the board and still charging
me 435 dollars. What would be a fair price. What could i do? Can
someone cite me that part from a distributor?

Much Appreciated.
-Andrew
www.oceansidecc.com
 
J

Jason D.

Jan 1, 1970
0
Hi John,
*snip*

Well, I called the shop and being a former television repair
receptionist myself they divulged that "The Technicians are know what
they do" and "The entire High Voltage board will not be replace that
much espensive" . So they are salvaging the board and still charging
me 435 dollars. What would be a fair price. What could i do? Can
someone cite me that part from a distributor?

Okay, take the chassis back from that shop, I'm liking this sound of
their comments less.

Have you done any electronic hobbies like putting a electronic item
together from kit or fixing and soldering boards, even done electrical
repairs in your car lately? Using digital meter to measure voltages,
diodes and resistances?

Changing parts is part of overall repair also adjusting to specific
voltage is a necessary after changing four capacitors in power supply
for this '169 chassis. Can show you what to do in this '169 providing
you're confortable working on that kind of electronics. Changing the
HV splitter block is doable be aware is somewhat fussy to do. I can
take several photos and instructions.

The parts total is about 120 to 140. Most expense is in that HV
splitter block.

Cheers,

Wizard
 
J

John

Jan 1, 1970
0
Hi John,


Okay, take the chassis back from that shop, I'm liking this sound of
their comments less.

Have you done any electronic hobbies like putting a electronic item
together from kit or fixing and soldering boards, even done electrical
repairs in your car lately? Using digital meter to measure voltages,
diodes and resistances?

Changing parts is part of overall repair also adjusting to specific
voltage is a necessary after changing four capacitors in power supply
for this '169 chassis. Can show you what to do in this '169 providing
you're confortable working on that kind of electronics. Changing the
HV splitter block is doable be aware is somewhat fussy to do. I can
take several photos and instructions.

The parts total is about 120 to 140. Most expense is in that HV
splitter block.

Cheers,

Wizard

The problem is...a common foe. They "started work already" and i would
be responsible for applicable labor charges and the 55 dollar service
call fee. I was more thinking like "Hey...this is the distributor,
this is how much it costs and how much do you think you can charge for
labor?" I could've done it too, I'm a computer technician and i've
soldered things before. Too bad... Anyways, A Catalog Part # would be
great, maybe even a link to a jpg file or a pdf file. Maybe you can
recommend something else to say to them? **Awkward Situation** Another
guy I called that I work RIGHT NEXT DOOR TO, was an old man and he
didn't even have the part, he didn't even have a distributor...
 
J

John Del

Jan 1, 1970
0
Subject: Re: RCA Projection TV: P52152ST
From: [email protected] (John)
Date: 5/13/04 12:02 PM
Message-id:
The problem is...a common foe. They "started work already" and i would
be responsible for applicable labor charges and the 55 dollar service
call fee.

At this point, you're pretty much screwed. If you pay the charges accrued up
till now, buying the parts and doing the work yourself will likely cost more
than their estimate. The HV block must be carefully installed, as any
contamination on the leads or internal gaskets, or if the lead tips don't fully
seat in the bottom of the block, will lead to a short life of the new part.

With recapping of the SMPS, checking the HV caps, completely cleaning the HV
leads and gaskets, properly installing the leads (a feel thing as much as
anything), and using an RCA original block, the repair will last virtually
forever. We do these complete with PU\Del for under $350 US as described above.

For what it's worth, I've seen these done for what your guy is charging, and
doing a lousy job. If they do the work properly, at least the job should last.
Good luck.


John Del
Wolcott, CT

"I'm just trying to get into heaven, I'm not running for Jesus!"
Homer Simpson

(remove S for email reply)
 
B

BWL

Jan 1, 1970
0
Did you tell them to fix it? If you were only waiting for an estimate, and
haven't already OK'd the repair, then you should only be out the Estimate
fee... If that's the case, go get the set, pay the estimate fee, and take it
somewhere else.
 
J

John

Jan 1, 1970
0
Did you tell them to fix it? If you were only waiting for an estimate, and
haven't already OK'd the repair, then you should only be out the Estimate
fee... If that's the case, go get the set, pay the estimate fee, and take it
somewhere else.

Yep, They're a good shop. It wasn't my choice, My wife already gave
them the go ahead. I could've done better but what are ya gonna do? I
got it to a good shop, there's this other one in my town the f*cks up
EVERYTHING. I'm just glad she kept it away from them.

Che Sara Sara.

I really appreciate all of your help. You need any computer help just
email me @ Av@oceanside(aj;fkdsNOSPAM)cc.com

Thanks.
 
J

Jason D.

Jan 1, 1970
0
At this point, you're pretty much screwed. If you pay the charges accrued up
till now, buying the parts and doing the work yourself will likely cost more
than their estimate. The HV block must be carefully installed, as any
contamination on the leads or internal gaskets, or if the lead tips don't fully
seat in the bottom of the block, will lead to a short life of the new part.

With recapping of the SMPS, checking the HV caps, completely cleaning the HV
leads and gaskets, properly installing the leads (a feel thing as much as
anything), and using an RCA original block, the repair will last virtually
forever. We do these complete with PU\Del for under $350 US as described above.

For what it's worth, I've seen these done for what your guy is charging, and
doing a lousy job. If they do the work properly, at least the job should last.
Good luck.

Agreed, I have seen shoddy jobs on these HV blocks and didn't last
long, THIS is fussy job, I got good at it. Many had missing gasket
sleeves (!!) and twisted up wire tip (shoddy poke!).

The newer HV blocks in those HDTV and burnt R14705, oh please!! Awful
way to remove those wires. You have to be really physical to YANK the
wires out and at same time taking care not to hit anything else on the
way when wire suddenly let go. Grunts with effort...SNAP, sigh,
grunts-SNAP then 3 more to go.

Cheers,

Wizard

PS: missing sleeves can be replaced with short sections cut off from
newer black RCA style long sleeved HV suction cups. Fits fine and
does seal because it has same effort when pushing those wires in.
Replacement sleeves is available from RCA but it is about 5 dollars
EACH, not a packet of few! Use silicone dielectric grease makes
installation easier & reliable. RCA should use twist & lock stuff.
:)
 
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