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op amp output

C

Chris

Jan 1, 1970
0
frogfot said:
Oobs, sorry for posting same post 5 times.. I'm using mailgate and it
seems to bug.. I've already deleted more than half of them..


Wouldn't that 2 op circuit have the same ambient temp dependance?

Nope. The voltage divider between the 47K resistor and the thermistor
would be buffered without adding more than a couple of millivolts of
offset by the LM358. The gain is 1, period, and the offset won't
change more than a millivolt or two with reasonable changes in
temperature. Whereas the initial circuit's NPN transistor buffer will
change all over the place, for even a 15 degree change in ambient from
25C to 40C.
I was thinking to go as simple as possible, while keeping the precision.
Though if this circuit will make no temp drift during the operation, it
would be preferred above "1 op circuit". Seems like I'm going to use a
dual op anyway.

By the way, in that corrected circuit you've posted, should the 1N914
be connected to +5V too instead of unregulated Vcc? Oh, and what is the
purpose of those two diodes?

I'm assuming your op amp input is basically "floating in the breeze"
with a remote thermistor. I don't like that, because a lot of things
can go wrong there. The cap, diodes, and series resistor at the input
of the op amp may help prevent any accidental excursions (like
electrostatic discharge) above/below the supply rails from damaging the
op amp input.
I was going to use a voltage regulator, while feeding the ralay from
nonregulated current as you've suggested. The circuit will be powered
from a small transformer, so that I don't have to change any batteries
in the final device :p

Either way, a 7805 5V post-regulator after your 7812 can't hurt. I'm
making some assumptions about the susceptibility of the circuit to
oscillate at switching point, and the 5V reference is one of those
things that might not be necessary depending on what you do and how you
construct your circuit, but it can't hurt and it just might pervent
serious problems.
Got it, though if I understood the graphs for LM358 (op that Chris
suggested) correctly, at +10 mA the output should be at maximum 0,2 V.
And that current should be more than enough for my "coil driver".
Lol, the reason I try to avoid MOSFETs is because they don't like me..
First time I bought 2 of them, they died before I could test them.. (I
heard they're very sensitive to static electricity..)
And besides, I get most of my transys from my dead tv, there's no
MOSFETs for some reason :)
Yup. I'm a little biased against FETs because of bad experiences in
ancient history. In days of yore, they used to ship each early FET
encircled by its own anti-static brass ringlet which you only removed
after the device was safely on the circuit board, and needless to say,
mortality rates were very high. You would look at these things wrong,
or even just open the box, and they'd die in droves. Things are a lot
better now for many reasons, but I still won't use a MOSFET if a
transistor will do the job. I guess I just feel more comfortable with
them, and transistors generally are cheaper, which is why you see many
more of them as discretes in scavenged consumer electronics (although
you seem to have the prices under control, as long as you don't cost
your time).
Yp, exactly, I just wanned it to have somewhat wider "regulation window"
or how to call it..

Heh, now I really don't know which circuit to use.. :p What would be
the main differences in this circuit and that 2 op circuit that Chris
posted? Soz, I'm not that much into electronics to see the difference :p

Well, why don't you try 'em all, and see which one works best for you.
Do Mr. Fields' circuit first -- his is a more elegant, lower parts
count and lower cost solution. Read up on both of 'em, look at the
datasheets, post questions, learn like heck. Who knows, your final
circuit might be any one of them, a combination of all of them, or
something you thunk up yourself. It's a wonderful world, isn't it? :cool:

Good luck
Chris
 
F

frogfot

Jan 1, 1970
0
Alrighty, I decided to use my old thermostat circuit with some minor
modifications (added 0,1 uF filtering caps)..
Here's it in mspaint:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v113/frogfot/boiler.gif
Note, the motor is just a stirrer for the heat-bath.

One question remains, is it ok to feed the relay from regulated 5V?
It eats only 81 mA and I will have a 100 uF cap on the 5V supply.

I used to have the relay connected this way.. but since I didn't
use the circuit much, I dunno how it will feel on the long run..

Thanks
 
L

Lord Garth

Jan 1, 1970
0
frogfot said:
Alrighty, I decided to use my old thermostat circuit with some minor
modifications (added 0,1 uF filtering caps)..
Here's it in mspaint:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v113/frogfot/boiler.gif
Note, the motor is just a stirrer for the heat-bath.

One question remains, is it ok to feed the relay from regulated 5V?
It eats only 81 mA and I will have a 100 uF cap on the 5V supply.

I used to have the relay connected this way.. but since I didn't
use the circuit much, I dunno how it will feel on the long run..

Thanks

R2, the feedback resistor does not have a value,
the cathode bar is missing from the relay shunt diode.
You might add a small cap across the motor
and sure, you can run your relay from the regulated supply,
you can also run it from the regulator input.
 
F

frogfot

Jan 1, 1970
0
Nice.
R2, the feedback resistor does not have a value,

I was thinking to set R2 to 1M and R1 will depend on the NTC resistor.
the cathode bar is missing from the relay shunt diode.
Huh?

You might add a small cap across the motor

But wouldn't that 1000uF cap be enough?

Thanks alot
 
L

Lord Garth

Jan 1, 1970
0
frogfot said:
Nice.


I was thinking to set R2 to 1M and R1 will depend on the NTC resistor.


But wouldn't that 1000uF cap be enough?

Thanks alot

The diode across the relay showed up without the bar on the cathode end.
Your
diode symbols in the bridge are fine.

A small cap will bypass high frequency noise.
 
P

Paul Jones

Jan 1, 1970
0
The LM358 and LM324 get close to gnd , but the output Z goes up t
10k ohms when output goes dn to about .6 vdc . 555 timer wa
similar "Z" . LM393 comparator is same . As it gets to gnd i
has higher Z
Op amps can't do low Z .

Op amps have poor feq response and poor settling time unles
they are modern FET input types . LF357M is a 20 mhz op amp
but has poor offset ( Vos) over temp . as do the TL082 and famil
 
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