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op amp output

F

frogfot

Jan 1, 1970
0
Hello, I'm trying to make a thermostat circuit that uses an op amplifyer
in voltage comparator mode. The circuit is here:
http://www.interq.or.jp/japan/se-inoue/e_ckt25.htm

The problem is, circuit doesn't work since when op outputs low it gives
1,35 V (it gives 11,93 V when high, powered from a car battery).. I
understand that non-ideal op amps suppose to output high and low with
slight offset.. but 1,35 V is just to much.. how can this be solved?

Thanks alot
 
R

Rheilly Phoull

Jan 1, 1970
0
One day frogfot got dressed and committed to text
Hello, I'm trying to make a thermostat circuit that uses an op
amplifyer in voltage comparator mode. The circuit is here:
http://www.interq.or.jp/japan/se-inoue/e_ckt25.htm

The problem is, circuit doesn't work since when op outputs low it
gives 1,35 V (it gives 11,93 V when high, powered from a car
battery).. I understand that non-ideal op amps suppose to output high
and low with slight offset.. but 1,35 V is just to much.. how can
this be solved?

Thanks alot

So what thermistor are you using ??
Sounds like the comparator is not quite changing over.
 
F

frogfot

Jan 1, 1970
0
It does change.. I said in previous post that comparator gives 1,35 V
when low and 11,93 V when high. The relay driving transistor doesn't
want to turn on since voltage is to high.. I want the op to give ~0 V
when low..

I even tested the op in a more simple circuit by connecting + input to
a voltage devider: 10k/10k across the 12 V, so this gave about 6 V. To
the - input I connected a pot so it could give 0-12 V. Turning the pot
changed the output of op nicely.. but this gave same problem..
 
J

John Smith

Jan 1, 1970
0
Change the opamp for one which gives rail-to-rail outputs.
Or create your own rail-to-rail output using transistors.
 
C

Chris

Jan 1, 1970
0
frogfot said:
Hello, I'm trying to make a thermostat circuit that uses an op amplifyer
in voltage comparator mode. The circuit is here:
http://www.interq.or.jp/japan/se-inoue/e_ckt25.htm

The problem is, circuit doesn't work since when op outputs low it gives
1,35 V (it gives 11,93 V when high, powered from a car battery).. I
understand that non-ideal op amps suppose to output high and low with
slight offset.. but 1,35 V is just to much.. how can this be solved?

Thanks alot

Good morning. The LM319 is actually a dual comparator, which is
optimized to operate as an on-off indicator of the diference between
the voltages at the - and + inputs. This works kind of like an op amp
would, except a comparator is made to switch fast and not spend a lot
of time between "ON" and "OFF".

Another feature about most comparators including the LM319 is that they
have open collector outputs. That means that, when the output is low,
it sinks current. When the output is high, the comparator output
transistor is off. If you have a pullup resistor, that gives you a
high output.

Now, if you look at the datasheet

http://www.national.com/ds.cgi/LM/LM119.pdf

you can get some clues about what's happening.


VCCVCC
+ +
| |
- C|
VCC ^ C|
+ | C|
| | |
5.6K.-. | |
| | | |
| | '--o
|\| '-' |
-|-\ | |/
| >----o----|
-|+/ | |>
|/| .-. |
| | |
1K | | ===
'-' GND
|
===
GND
created by Andy´s ASCII-Circuit v1.24.140803 Beta www.tech-chat.de

Under normal operation, when the comparator is off, you should see a
voltage divider between the 5.6K and the 1K resistor. For a 13.8V
battery voltage, that should give you around 2.1V at the output pin.
When it's on, it's sinking the current from the 5.6K resistor, about
2mA. The data sheet on p.4 shows that the output vopltage should be
pretty near zero.

You're getting pretty close to the full battery voltage when the
comparator is off, and about 1.3V when on. Again, looking at the
datasheet, you can see that the comparator transistor "on" voltage
starts to rise pretty dramatically when it's trying to sink more than
about 5mA.

That leads me to suspect that there's too much current going into that
node, when the comparator is ON or OFF. First guess -- your transistor
pinout is wrong. with the flat of the TO-92 plastic package facing
toward you and the pins down, the pinout from left to right is E - C -
B. As a first guess, I'd suggest you've got it wired up as E - B - C,
like the 2N3904 and a lot of other small signal NPN transistors. You
didn't mention what the battery voltage is (12 or 13.8) when you're
running this, but this would explain what you're describing. Switching
the collector and base will turn this into a forward-biased diode
between the relay and the comparator. The current from the relay will
swamp the voltage divider into a much higher voltage like you're
seeing.

Try rewiring and see if it works. You may have smoked either the
transistor or the comparator, so if it still doesn't work, replace the
transistor first.

Good luck
Chris
 
L

Lord Garth

Jan 1, 1970
0
frogfot said:
Hello, I'm trying to make a thermostat circuit that uses an op amplifyer
in voltage comparator mode. The circuit is here:
http://www.interq.or.jp/japan/se-inoue/e_ckt25.htm

The problem is, circuit doesn't work since when op outputs low it gives
1,35 V (it gives 11,93 V when high, powered from a car battery).. I
understand that non-ideal op amps suppose to output high and low with
slight offset.. but 1,35 V is just to much.. how can this be solved?

Thanks alot

If you've built correctly, I would disconnect the output of the op-amp from
the relay
driver. The junction of R7 & R8 should have about 9.5 volts WRT ground.
This is from 12v-Vbe(sat)/R7+R8 = 11.4v/6600 ohms = 1.7mA so 5600 * 1.7=
9.52 volts at the R7 R8 junction and the relay should pull in.

BTW, if the relay coil is < 480 ohms, the LM319 can drive it directly though
its
operation would be reversed.

Grounding the R7 R8 junction should open the relay.

Having verified this operation, install a pull-up resistor to the LM317
output.
5600 ohms would be fine. Insure that the junction of the LM317 and the
resistor
can swing between 12 volts and very near ground.

My guess is that you will have a relay driver problem.
 
C

Chris

Jan 1, 1970
0
Chris said:
VCCVCC
+ +
| |
- C|
VCC ^ C|
+ | C|
| | |
5.6K.-. | |
| | | |
| | '--o
|\| '-' |
-|-\ | |/
| >----o----|
-|+/ | |>
|/| .-. |
| | |
1K | | ===
'-' GND
|
===
GND
created by Andy´s ASCII-Circuit v1.24.140803 Beta www.tech-chat.de

Soory -- my ASCII skills improve with a second cup of coffee. Let's
try something like this:

` VCCVCC
` + +
` | |
` | |
` - C|
` | ^ C|
` .-. | C|
` 5.6K| | | |
` | | '--o
` |\| '-' |
` -|-\ | ___ |/
` | >- o-|___|--|
` -|+/ 1K |>
` |/| |
` |
` ===
` GND

created by Andy´s ASCII-Circuit v1.24.140803 Beta www.tech-chat.de

The above still applies, but you have to add about 0.7V for the Vbe
drop when the comparator is off, bringing the comparator off/transistor
on voltage at 2.8V instead of 2.1V.

Everything else above still holds. Check the transistor pinout first.

Chris
 
B

Ban

Jan 1, 1970
0
frogfot said:
It does change.. I said in previous post that comparator gives 1,35 V
when low and 11,93 V when high. The relay driving transistor doesn't
want to turn on since voltage is to high.. I want the op to give ~0 V
when low..

I even tested the op in a more simple circuit by connecting + input to
a voltage devider: 10k/10k across the 12 V, so this gave about 6 V. To
the - input I connected a pot so it could give 0-12 V. Turning the pot
changed the output of op nicely.. but this gave same problem..

Maybe you have soldered the transistor in with the E and C changed, or the
comparator is oscillating. The whole design on this web page doesn't have
any hysteresis, which should be there. Just solder a 1Meg resistor from
pin12 OP to pin4 +IN.
Actually the statements do not make sense, because the relais should be
triggered when the comparator output is *high* or in the off state, which
means the value on the +IN is smaller than on the -IN. Voltage on pin 12
should be around 1.9V and voltage on the relais coil below 0.3V.

When the comparator is low, the voltage on pin 12 should be less than 0.3V
with the lowish current draw of the 5k6 pull-up resistor. Thr relais is then
off. The output should be able to drive the relais directly, if the current
is less than 25mA.

The guy descibed his design:

"The circuit this time isn't doing to the such circuit. However, I changed
into the drive circuit which used a transistor because it was unstable that
the relay works. It wasn't worked when it should work.
When the output of the comparator is ON(It detects below the setting
temperature), the base of the drive transistor becomes grounding voltage
approximately. Therefore, the electric current doesn't flow through the base
of the drive transistor and the transistor becomes OFF condition. The relay
doesn't work.
When the output of the comparator is OFF(It detects above the setting
temperature), the electric current flows through R7 and R8 into the base of
the drive transistor and the transistor becomes ON condition. The relay
works."

So the transistor was put to invert the logic signal, he could have done
that faster by just exchanging the +IN with the -IN inputs, good grief.

ciao Ban
 
J

John Fields

Jan 1, 1970
0
Hello, I'm trying to make a thermostat circuit that uses an op amplifyer
in voltage comparator mode. The circuit is here:
http://www.interq.or.jp/japan/se-inoue/e_ckt25.htm

The problem is, circuit doesn't work since when op outputs low it gives
1,35 V (it gives 11,93 V when high, powered from a car battery).. I
understand that non-ideal op amps suppose to output high and low with
slight offset.. but 1,35 V is just to much.. how can this be solved?

---
You don't need Q1 and, assuming that your thermistor has a resistance
of around 1000 ohms at your setpoint, this should work:


+12V>-----+-------+---------+--------+----+-----+
| | | | | |
| | | [10k] |K | O------C
[4k7] [30k] | | [CR1] [COIL]- - -|
| | +---|--[1M]--+ | | O--> |<--O--NC
| | | | | +-----+ |
| | | | | | +-----------NO
+---+---------+--|+\ | D
| | | | >------+--+-----G 2N7000
[RTH] | [10k]<--+--|-/ LM319 | S
| | | | | | |
+---+ | | | | |K |
| | | | | | [Z15V] |
| [4k7] | [30k][0.1µF]| | |
| | | | | | | |
[0.1µF]|[0.1µF]| | | | |
| | | | | | | |
GND>--+---+---+---+-----+---+-----------+-------+


If it has a different resistance, post back with the spec's or a part
number and over what temperature range you want to be able to vary
your setpoint.

The 1 megohm resistor is in there for hysteresis and you may want to
change it if the thermostat cycles too quickly.
 
R

Rich Grise

Jan 1, 1970
0
Hello, I'm trying to make a thermostat circuit that uses an op amplifyer
in voltage comparator mode. The circuit is here:
http://www.interq.or.jp/japan/se-inoue/e_ckt25.htm

The problem is, circuit doesn't work since when op outputs low it gives
1,35 V (it gives 11,93 V when high, powered from a car battery).. I
understand that non-ideal op amps suppose to output high and low with
slight offset.. but 1,35 V is just to much.. how can this be solved?

Use a comparator instead of an op amp. Op amps are designed to be analog,
and so are likely to not be rail-to-rail. The output of a comparator
is an open-collector transistor, with the emitter either grounded or
connected to the negative supply (which is probably ground), so can
pull the output down to Vcesat.

Cheers!
Rich
 
F

frogfot

Jan 1, 1970
0
Thanks for all replies. I'm pretty sure that all parts are ok and
connected correctly, I've looked it through several times.

John said:
Change the opamp for one which gives rail-to-rail outputs.
Or create your own rail-to-rail output using transistors.

How stupid of me to forget mention that I used another op, TL082. I've
tested to change to LM358 and it gave almost 0 on low!
Huh, I beginned to use an op instead of transistors for this
application because I thoat this will give simpler circuit.
The whole design on this web page doesn't have
any hysteresis, which should be there. Just solder a 1Meg resistor
from pin12 OP to pin4 +IN.
...
When the comparator is low, the voltage on pin 12 should be less than
0.3V with the lowish current draw of the 5k6 pull-up resistor. Thr
relais is then off. The output should be able to drive the relais
directly, if the current is less than 25mA.

But is 1M resistor really needed? I thoat it only decreased the
precision.. Now I included it.
The relay coil will drain quite alot. It will control a ~500W boiler.
You're getting pretty close to the full battery voltage when the
comparator is off, and about 1.3V when on. Again, looking at the
datasheet, you can see that the comparator transistor "on" voltage
starts to rise pretty dramatically when it's trying to sink more than
about 5mA.

The high/low output doesn't change much if I remove all load from the
op output (if my multimeter isn't counted as a load). But anyway, I'll
use different op amp.

John said:
You don't need Q1 and, assuming that your thermistor has a resistance
of around 1000 ohms at your setpoint, this should work:
...
...

Mine NTC is 10k at 25*C and 500 at 100*C. I don't understand why you've
used an MOSFET (I'm more used to transistors :p ).. and what's the
purpose of Z15V, is it a zener diode?

I was going to use this circuit to control temp in a water-bath at
0-100*C.

Thanks for your time again.
 
F

frogfot

Jan 1, 1970
0
Thanks for all replies. I'm pretty sure that all parts are ok and
connected correctly, I've looked it through several times.

John said:
Change the opamp for one which gives rail-to-rail outputs.
Or create your own rail-to-rail output using transistors.

How stupid of me to forget mention that I used another op, TL082. I've
tested to change to LM358 and it gave almost 0 on low!
Huh, I beginned to use an op instead of transistors for this
application because I thoat this will give simpler circuit.
The whole design on this web page doesn't have
any hysteresis, which should be there. Just solder a 1Meg resistor
from pin12 OP to pin4 +IN.
...
When the comparator is low, the voltage on pin 12 should be less than
0.3V with the lowish current draw of the 5k6 pull-up resistor. Thr
relais is then off. The output should be able to drive the relais
directly, if the current is less than 25mA.

But is 1M resistor really needed? I thoat it only decreased the
precision.. Now I included it.
The relay coil will drain quite alot. It will control a ~500W boiler.
You're getting pretty close to the full battery voltage when the
comparator is off, and about 1.3V when on. Again, looking at the
datasheet, you can see that the comparator transistor "on" voltage
starts to rise pretty dramatically when it's trying to sink more than
about 5mA.

The high/low output doesn't change much if I remove all load from the
op output (if my multimeter isn't counted as a load). But anyway, I'll
use different op amp.

John said:
You don't need Q1 and, assuming that your thermistor has a resistance
of around 1000 ohms at your setpoint, this should work:
...
...

Mine NTC is 10k at 25*C and 500 at 100*C. I don't understand why you've
used an MOSFET (I'm more used to transistors :p ).. and what's the
purpose of Z15V, is it a zener diode?

I was going to use this circuit to control temp in a water-bath at
0-100*C.
 
F

frogfot

Jan 1, 1970
0
Thanks for all replies. I'm pretty sure that all parts are ok and
connected correctly, I've looked it through several times.

John said:
Change the opamp for one which gives rail-to-rail outputs.
Or create your own rail-to-rail output using transistors.

How stupid of me to forget mention that I used another op, TL082. I've
tested to change to LM358 and it gave almost 0 on low!
Huh, I beginned to use an op instead of transistors for this
application because I thoat this will give simpler circuit.
The whole design on this web page doesn't have
any hysteresis, which should be there. Just solder a 1Meg resistor
from pin12 OP to pin4 +IN.
...
When the comparator is low, the voltage on pin 12 should be less than
0.3V with the lowish current draw of the 5k6 pull-up resistor. Thr
relais is then off. The output should be able to drive the relais
directly, if the current is less than 25mA.

But is 1M resistor really needed? I thoat it only decreased the
precision.. Now I included it.
The relay coil will drain quite alot. It will control a ~500W boiler.
You're getting pretty close to the full battery voltage when the
comparator is off, and about 1.3V when on. Again, looking at the
datasheet, you can see that the comparator transistor "on" voltage
starts to rise pretty dramatically when it's trying to sink more than
about 5mA.

The high/low output doesn't change much if I remove all load from the
op output (if my multimeter isn't counted as a load). But anyway, I'll
use different op amp.

John said:
You don't need Q1 and, assuming that your thermistor has a resistance
of around 1000 ohms at your setpoint, this should work:
...
...

Mine NTC is 10k at 25*C and 500 at 100*C. I don't understand why you've
used an MOSFET (I'm more used to transistors :p ).. and what's the
purpose of Z15V, is it a zener diode?

I was going to use this circuit to control temp in a water-bath at
0-100*C.
 
F

frogfot

Jan 1, 1970
0
Thanks for all replies. I'm pretty sure that all parts are ok and
connected correctly, I've looked it through several times.

John said:
Change the opamp for one which gives rail-to-rail outputs.
Or create your own rail-to-rail output using transistors.

How stupid of me to forget mention that I used another op, TL082. I've
tested to change to LM358 and it gave almost 0 on low!
Huh, I beginned to use an op instead of transistors for this
application because I thoat this will give simpler circuit.
The whole design on this web page doesn't have
any hysteresis, which should be there. Just solder a 1Meg resistor
from pin12 OP to pin4 +IN.
...
When the comparator is low, the voltage on pin 12 should be less than
0.3V with the lowish current draw of the 5k6 pull-up resistor. Thr
relais is then off. The output should be able to drive the relais
directly, if the current is less than 25mA.

But is 1M resistor really needed? I thoat it only decreased the
precision.. Now I included it.
The relay coil will drain quite alot. It will control a ~500W boiler.
You're getting pretty close to the full battery voltage when the
comparator is off, and about 1.3V when on. Again, looking at the
datasheet, you can see that the comparator transistor "on" voltage
starts to rise pretty dramatically when it's trying to sink more than
about 5mA.

The high/low output doesn't change much if I remove all load from the
op output (if my multimeter isn't counted as a load). But anyway, I'll
use different op amp.

John said:
You don't need Q1 and, assuming that your thermistor has a resistance
of around 1000 ohms at your setpoint, this should work:

Mine NTC is 10k at 25*C and 500 at 100*C. I don't understand why you've
used an MOSFET (I'm more used to transistors :p ).. and what's the
purpose of Z15V, is it a zener diode?

I was going to use this circuit to control temp in a water-bath at
0-100*C.
 
F

frogfot

Jan 1, 1970
0
Thanks for all replies. I'm pretty sure that all parts are ok and
connected correctly, I've looked it through several times.

John said:
Change the opamp for one which gives rail-to-rail outputs.
Or create your own rail-to-rail output using transistors.

How stupid of me to forget mention that I used another op, TL082. I've
tested to change to LM358 and it gave almost 0 on low!
Huh, I beginned to use an op instead of transistors for this
application because I thoat this will give simpler circuit.
The whole design on this web page doesn't have
any hysteresis, which should be there. Just solder a 1Meg resistor
from pin12 OP to pin4 +IN.
...
relais is then off. The output should be able to drive the relais
directly, if the current is less than 25mA.

But is 1M resistor really needed? I thoat it only decreased the
precision.. Now I included it.
The relay coil will drain quite alot. It will control a ~500W boiler.
You're getting pretty close to the full battery voltage when the
comparator is off, and about 1.3V when on. Again, looking at the
datasheet, you can see that the comparator transistor "on" voltage
starts to rise pretty dramatically when it's trying to sink more than
about 5mA.

The high/low output doesn't change much if I remove all load from the
op output (if my multimeter isn't counted as a load). But anyway, I'll
use different op amp.

John said:
You don't need Q1 and, assuming that your thermistor has a resistance
of around 1000 ohms at your setpoint, this should work:
...

Mine NTC is 10k at 25*C and 500 at 100*C. I don't understand why you've
used an MOSFET (I'm more used to transistors :p ).. and what's the
purpose of Z15V, is it a zener diode?

I was going to use this circuit to control temp in a water-bath at
0-100*C.
 
J

John Fields

Jan 1, 1970
0
Mine NTC is 10k at 25*C and 500 at 100*C. I don't understand why you've
used an MOSFET (I'm more used to transistors :p ).. and what's the
purpose of Z15V, is it a zener diode?

---
I used a MOSFET because the gate doesn't draw any current, so you
don't have to worry about the comparator output going out of
saturation when it's sinking the transistor's base current. If you
used a transistor you'd want to force beta to about 10, which means
that for a relay with a 100mA coil the base current would need to be
10mA, which could pull the LM319 output out of saturation. The Zener
(15V) is to make sure that any spikes which appear on the MOSFET's
gate will be clamped to 15V in order to keep the MOSFET from getting
damaged.
---
I was going to use this circuit to control temp in a water-bath at
0-100*C.

---
If you mean from 25 to 100°C, then I suggest you do something like
this:

+12V>-----+-------+---------+--------+----+-----+
| | | | | |
|R1 |R2 | [10k] |K | O------C
[10k] [10k] | | [CR1] [COIL]- - -|
| | +---|--[1M]--+ | | O--> |<--O--NC
| | | | | +-----+ |
| | | | | | +-----------NO
+---+---------+--|+\ | D
| | |R3 | >------+--+-----G 2N7000
[RTH] | [10k]<--+--|-/ LM393 | S
| | | | | | |
| | +-----+ | |K |
| | | | | [Z15V] |
| | [R4] | | | |
| | | | | | |
|[0.1µF]| [0.1µF]| | |
| | | | | | |
GND>------+---+---+-----+---+-----------+-------+

Notice that I changed the comparator to an LM393, which is a better
comparator for this application, I believe. (and cheaper,too) The
value of R4 is going to depend on the the end point resistance of R3
and should be set so that with the pot (R3) rotated fully toward GND
the voltage on the comparator - input is the same as the voltage on
the + input with the water bath at 100°C. Probably close to 500 ohms,
the 100°C resistance of the thermistor.
 
C

Chris

Jan 1, 1970
0
frogfot said:
Thanks for all replies. I'm pretty sure that all parts are ok and
connected correctly, I've looked it through several times.



How stupid of me to forget mention that I used another op, TL082. I've
tested to change to LM358 and it gave almost 0 on low!
Huh, I beginned to use an op instead of transistors for this
application because I thoat this will give simpler circuit.


But is 1M resistor really needed? I thoat it only decreased the
precision.. Now I included it.
The relay coil will drain quite alot. It will control a ~500W boiler.


The high/low output doesn't change much if I remove all load from the
op output (if my multimeter isn't counted as a load). But anyway, I'll
use different op amp.



Mine NTC is 10k at 25*C and 500 at 100*C. I don't understand why you've
used an MOSFET (I'm more used to transistors :p ).. and what's the
purpose of Z15V, is it a zener diode?

I was going to use this circuit to control temp in a water-bath at
0-100*C.

Hello again. I was under the impression you were working with a
comparator and trying to get the circuit to work. Having switched over
to an LM358 (which will get within a couple hundred mV of GND while
sinking a couple of mils) should have handled your immediate problem of
getting the relay transuistor to turn off.

However, you've got a couple of serious problems that don't have
anything to do with that. First, the schematic transistor TR1 is a
current-driven device whose gain will be very dependent on temperature.
A small change in the ambient temperature around Q1 will cause a large
change in voltage impressed across the 2K load resistor. Bad news if
you want to maintain a steady setpoint.

Second, whether you use an op amp or a comparator to drive the relay
transistor, you're going to have problems with transistor oscillation
when the thermistor voltage gets close to the pot voltage. That can be
hidden a bit by the fact that the relay coil will act to average the
voltage impressed across it, and that relay coils have inherent
hysteresis (you usually have to get them up above 50% of rated voltage
for them to turn on, but once on, they will almost always stay on until
coil voltage goes down below 25% of rated voltage).

In short, I think the author of the web page knew more about web page
design (pretty good, actually) than electronics (inadequate, actually).
It's a common problem. But there's a pretty good basic circuit on the
web similar to yours that doesn't have the problems listed above:

http://www.uoguelph.ca/~antoon/circ/heatsens.html

This circuit will also have the issue about the turnoff voltage of the
op amp not being quite low enough to turn off the transistor. It also
lacks consideration for using a remote thermistor.

But, considering you've got an LM358 dual op amp to solve the turn-off
issue, you might want to try something like this (view in fixed font or
M$ Notepad):


VCC
+
|
| VCC
.-. +
| |47K |
| | .---o
'-' | |
| VCC | C|
| + - C|
o--. | 220K ^ C|
| | 1N914 | ___ ___ | |
| | - .-|___|-. .--|___|--. | |
.-. | ^ | 22K | | | | |
| | | | | |\ | | VCC | '---o
| | | | '-|-\ | ___ | |\| | |
'-' | 0.1uF | ___ | >--o-|___|-o--|-\ | ___ |/
| '------------o---o-|___|-|+/ 10K | >---o-|___|-o-|
'-----------. | | 22K |/ .--|+/ 2.2K | |>
Thermistor | --- | | |/| .-. |
<--o --- - | GND | | |
Shield | | ^ | 2.2K| | ===
=== === |1N914 | '-' GND
VCC GND GND | | |
+ ____ === | ===
| | | GND _V_ GND
o-|7805|-o----------------------------|___|--.
| |____| | 50K |
--- | --- ===
--- | --- GND
| === |
=== GND ===
GND GND
created by Andy´s ASCII-Circuit v1.24.140803 Beta www.tech-chat.de

The first op amp is used as a voltage follower to buffer your signal
from the thermistor. Make sure to use the shield connection as in your
original art. The second op amp is set up as a comparator, but has a
220K feedback resistor to provide hysteresis. You can decrease the
value to 100K or so if you're still getting oscillations at the output.
However, the more you increase the hysteresis, the moreexcursion
you'll get on water temperature for this "bang-bang"-type controller.
Try to use the higher value resistor. The 7805 is a cheap way to get a
good reference voltage for the 50K pot, so your reference voltage will
be stable when the relay turns off and pumps current into the power
line.

When constructing the circuit, make sure to use a bypass capacitor on
the op amp, and make sure your power supply wires are close to the
board. If not, add a really good (1000uF) cap across the power supply
to stabilize the power supply. You should also try to avoid contact
arcing at the relay contacts by either putting a quencharc across the
resistive heater load, or at least physically moving the relay some
distance from the circuit.

The problem with using op amps as comparators is that they have
relatively slow transistions, and tend not to have logic level highs
and lows. Of course, the relay open/closure time (one to several ms.)
is far longer than any delay caused by op amp slew rate. And if you
use an op amp made for getting output close to the negative supply, you
won't have a problem with turning off an NPN transistor. The LM358
isn't a bad choice for this application.

I hope this has been of help.

Good luck
Chris
 
C

Chris

Jan 1, 1970
0
Chris said:
VCC
+
|
| VCC
.-. +
| |47K |
| | .---o
'-' | |
| VCC | C|
| + - C|
o--. | 220K ^ C|
| | 1N914 | ___ ___ | |
| | - .-|___|-. .--|___|--. | |
.-. | ^ | 22K | | | | |
| | | | | |\ | | VCC | '---o
| | | | '-|-\ | ___ | |\| | |
'-' | 0.1uF | ___ | >--o-|___|-o--|-\ | ___ |/
| '------------o---o-|___|-|+/ 10K | >---o-|___|-o-|
'-----------. | | 22K |/ .--|+/ 2.2K | |>
Thermistor | --- | | |/| .-. |
<--o --- - | GND | | |
Shield | | ^ | 2.2K| | ===
=== === |1N914 | '-' GND
VCC GND GND | | |
+ ____ === | ===
| | | GND _V_ GND
o-|7805|-o----------------------------|___|--.
| |____| | 50K |
--- | --- ===
--- | --- GND
| === |
=== GND ===
GND GND
created by Andy´s ASCII-Circuit v1.24.140803 Beta www.tech-chat.de
Good luck
Chris

Sorry -- you'll have much better luck if you feed the 47K/thermistor
divider with the reference voltage from the 7805. My bad.

` +5V
` |
` | VCC
` .-. +
` | |47K |
` | | .---o
` '-' | |
` | VCC | C|
` | + - C|
` o--. | 220K ^ C|
` | | 1N914 | ___ ___ | |
` | | - .-|___|-. .--|___|--. | |
` .-. | ^ | 22K | | | | |
` | | | | | |\ | | VCC | '---o
` | | | | '-|-\ | ___ | |\| | |
` '-' | 0.1uF | ___ | >--o-|___|-o--|-\ | ___ |/
` | '------------o---o-|___|-|+/ 10K | >---o-|___|-o-|
` '-----------. | | 22K |/ .--|+/ 2.2K | |>
`Thermistor | --- | | |/| .-. |
` <--o --- - | GND | | |
` Shield | | ^ | 2.2K| | ===
` === === |1N914 | '-' GND
` VCC GND GND | | |
` + ____ +5V === | ===
` | | | | GND _V_ GND
` o-|7805|-o----------------------------|___|--.
` | |____| | 50K |
` --- | --- ===
` --- | --- GND
` | === |
` === GND ===
` GND GND
created by Andy´s ASCII-Circuit v1.24.140803 Beta www.tech-chat.de

Good luck
Chris
 
F

frogfot

Jan 1, 1970
0
Oobs, sorry for posting same post 5 times.. I'm using mailgate and it
seems to bug.. I've already deleted more than half of them..
First, the schematic transistor TR1 is a current-driven device whose
gain will be very dependent on temperature. A small change in the
ambient temperature around Q1 will cause a large change in voltage
impressed across the 2K load resistor. Bad news if you want to
maintain a steady setpoint.

Wouldn't that 2 op circuit have the same ambient temp dependance?

I was thinking to go as simple as possible, while keeping the precision.
Though if this circuit will make no temp drift during the operation, it
would be preferred above "1 op circuit". Seems like I'm going to use a
dual op anyway.

By the way, in that corrected circuit you've posted, should the 1N914
be connected to +5V too instead of unregulated Vcc? Oh, and what is the
purpose of those two diodes?
The 7805 is a cheap way to get a good reference voltage for the 50K
pot, so your reference voltage will be stable when the relay turns off
and pumps current into the power line.

I was going to use a voltage regulator, while feeding the ralay from
nonregulated current as you've suggested. The circuit will be powered
from a small transformer, so that I don't have to change any batteries
in the final device :p

John said:
I used a MOSFET because the gate doesn't draw any current, so you
don't have to worry about the comparator output going out of
saturation when it's sinking the transistor's base current.

Got it, though if I understood the graphs for LM358 (op that Chris
suggested) correctly, at +10 mA the output should be at maximum 0,2 V.
And that current should be more than enough for my "coil driver".
Lol, the reason I try to avoid MOSFETs is because they don't like me..
First time I bought 2 of them, they died before I could test them.. (I
heard they're very sensitive to static electricity..)
And besides, I get most of my transys from my dead tv, there's no
MOSFETs for some reason :)
If you mean from 25 to 100°C, then I suggest you do something like
this:

Yp, exactly, I just wanned it to have somewhat wider "regulation window"
or how to call it..

Heh, now I really don't know which circuit to use.. :p What would be
the main differences in this circuit and that 2 op circuit that Chris
posted? Soz, I'm not that much into electronics to see the difference :p
 
J

John Fields

Jan 1, 1970
0
Oobs, sorry for posting same post 5 times.. I'm using mailgate and it
seems to bug.. I've already deleted more than half of them..


Wouldn't that 2 op circuit have the same ambient temp dependance?

I was thinking to go as simple as possible, while keeping the precision.
Though if this circuit will make no temp drift during the operation, it
would be preferred above "1 op circuit". Seems like I'm going to use a
dual op anyway.

By the way, in that corrected circuit you've posted, should the 1N914
be connected to +5V too instead of unregulated Vcc? Oh, and what is the
purpose of those two diodes?


I was going to use a voltage regulator, while feeding the ralay from
nonregulated current as you've suggested. The circuit will be powered
from a small transformer, so that I don't have to change any batteries
in the final device :p



Got it, though if I understood the graphs for LM358 (op that Chris
suggested) correctly, at +10 mA the output should be at maximum 0,2 V.
And that current should be more than enough for my "coil driver".
Lol, the reason I try to avoid MOSFETs is because they don't like me..
First time I bought 2 of them, they died before I could test them.. (I
heard they're very sensitive to static electricity..)
And besides, I get most of my transys from my dead tv, there's no
MOSFETs for some reason :)


Yp, exactly, I just wanned it to have somewhat wider "regulation window"
or how to call it..

Heh, now I really don't know which circuit to use.. :p What would be
the main differences in this circuit and that 2 op circuit that Chris
posted? Soz, I'm not that much into electronics to see the difference :p

---
I like Chris's circuit better, but with these modifications:


+5V
|
| VCC
.-. +
| |47K |
| | .---o
'-' | |
| 5V | C|
| + - C|
o--. | +----+ ^ C|
| | 1N914 | ___ 1M _V_ | | |
| | - .-|___|-. .--|___|--+ | |
.-. | ^ | 22K | | | | |
| | | | | |\ | | 5V | '---o
| | | | '-|-\ | ___ | |\| | |
'-' | 0.1uF | ___ | >--o-|___|-o--|+\ | ___ |/
| '------------o---o-|___|-|+/ 1k | >---o-|___|-o-|
'-----------. | | 22K |/ .--|-/ 390 |>
Thermistor | --- | | |/| |
<--o --- - | GND |
Shield | | ^ | ===
=== === |1N914 | GND
VCC GND GND | |
+ ____ +5V === |
| | | | GND _V_
o-|7805|-o----------------------------|___|--.
| |____| | 50K |
--- | --- ===
--- | --- GND
| === |
=== GND ===
GND GND
 
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