Help with a circuit.

[The_Tominator]

Hi
I recently made a circuit, ran into a problem. It's not huge, the circuit still runs well but I would prefer to iron it out.
Basically, I have a key switch, + voltage goes to a panel mount Voltmeter and the - from the voltmeter goes to a Green LED. The - connection of the Green LED goes to the middle connection ( for voltage) on the Rotary switch.
2 connections are used on the Rotary, No1 connection runs straight to ground (- wire).
No2 connection runs to Small Toggle Switch which goes to the + of a Red LED. The - from the LED connects to my - wire from the Rotary switch.
(I am sorry I cannot provide images, apparently by images are too large for the server to handle, if you have any suggestions as to where I can dump the images for you to see, please tell me and I will get right onto it!!)
Now this is my problem:
I turn the key switch on, Rotary is in the No1 connection, Green LED is LIT.
Move Rotary to the Right to No2 connection and the Green LED Turns off until I throw the Small Toggle on to turn on the Red LED. Also at this stage, my Voltmeter is not reading any voltage.

Please can anyone tell me how I can Re-Wire my circuit so that the Green LED is on before I can turn on the Toggle switch and how I can rewire it to gr my voltmeter to shoe voltage whether its at No1 or 2 connection.
Thanks.

 

[davenn]

(I am sorry I cannot provide images, apparently by images are too large for the server to handle, if you have any suggestions as to where I can dump the images for you to see, please tell me and I will get right onto it!!)

Just resize the images in your fav graphics prog. down to 800 x 600 and make sure that they are ~100kb or less

tis easy to do

Basically, I have a key switch, + voltage goes to a panel mount Voltmeter and the - from the voltmeter goes to a Green LED. The - connection of the Green LED goes to the middle connection ( for voltage) on the Rotary switch.

sounds like a problem there you are suggesting that you have the voltmeter in series with the switch and LED. This is a no no ..... Voltmeters should be in parallel with the power source. .....

I would also suggest that you will need a resistor in series with the LED else it will blow with anything over a couple of volts applied across it
get your circuits posted so we can really see what you are doing

Dave

 

[The_Tominator]

Right so, my problem is that switch the Rotary to No2 connection both lights turn off. I want the Green LED to be on all the time no matter what switch I open or close.
I will have a picture of the circuit later.

 

[Martaine2005]

I just tried to draw this by the description.
And I don't understand how any of it is actually working...
Best wait the circuit diagram I think...
Also, what voltage are you trying to measure? Just the input voltage?
As @davenn has already pointed out, you will need current limiting resistors for the LEDs. And the volt meter should be in parallel, not in series as you have described. An ammeter goes in series.

Reminds me of when I was younger..I built something similar to stop my sisters going in my bedroom and using my Hi-Fi system.
I used the key lock and then various neon rocker switches. It looked great but the amp was switched on first then the tape deck etc and what a crack through the speakers it made as other items were switched on. It never crossed my mind to change the switching arrangement so the amp came on last DUH.

Martin

 

[The_Tominator]

Hope this helps a bit. If anyone is wondering the voltmeter is underneath.
Thanks.

 

[Martaine2005]

OK, wow. I can see power coming through the key switch in series with the voltmeter and LED and then to the rotary switch. Still in series to a toggle switch then through another LED and another toggle switch back to the rotary switch.....
Forget the rest for now, where does the black wire terminate?
You have powered this with positive and negative? You must have done, I saw the voltmeter on...
I think your description is better than the photo.
Can you please draw your circuit as a complete circuit with power supply connections?

Martin

 

[Martaine2005]

Also, give us a close up of the rotary switch markings..
EDIT: Tell us what you want to do with all these switches and LEDs. That might be a lot quicker to help and answer you
Martin

 

[Bluejets]

I just tried to draw this by the description

I had 2 goes at it and gave up after the description got me all light headed....

The "need for so many switches" seems bewildering.

 

[The_Tominator]

Forget the rest for now, where does the black wire terminate?
You have powered this with positive and negative? You must have done, I saw the voltmeter on...
Martin

The main black wire ( I'm assuming you mean the black wire coming from the rotary and the led) goes back to the power Jack.

Yes, I powered the circuit with DC from the battery for now as well as a boost converter.
I am upgrading it to a wall power supply soon

 

[The_Tominator]

EDIT: Tell us what you want to do with all these switches and LEDs. That might be a lot quicker to help and answer you
Martin

You might have noticed in the photos, the Green LED is on when having the rotary switch in the top position. Move it to the right one spot allows me to turn on the Red LED. However, when I do this the Green LED does not stay on and only comes on when I flick the toggle switch by the LED.
I want the green LED to be on ALL the time instead of just when I flick the toggle switch.

Hope this helps.
I'll get a circuit diagram soon

 

[davenn]

I want the green LED to be on ALL the time instead of just when I flick the toggle switch.

So then power it from directly across the DC supply so it comes on and stays on when you connect the supply
Again Don't forget the current limiting resistor in series with the LED

 

[Martaine2005]

That rotary switch looks like a single pole. 'A' is it's only pole. This should be the common positive terminal.
Then 1,2,3,4...etc are switched by turning the knob. Then you can control what you want to turn on.
The negative should not be on the rotary switch. Have a separate connector inside your box.
(I can't fathom how it worked at all).

Here is an example:
Positive through key switch to A of rotary switch. Rot sw 1 through toggle sw to resistor and red led then to negative rail.
Turn key to power up the rotary switch. pos 1 powers up the toggle, push toggle and red led lights.

Put voltmeter across the pos and neg power source. Key turned on side!
Put green LED and resistor across the same two as above.

When you turn your key the voltmeter and green LED will turn on.
The resistors required will depend on your source voltage and LED. But assuming 9v and typical 2v LEDs, If 20mA, 350 Ohms or higher should get you going.
Remember V=IxR. So 9v - 2v =7v / .02 (20mA) = 350 Ohms.

That should give you something to play with..
But I am still trying to work out how you have it wired..........

Martin

 

[Martaine2005]

Hehehehehe, I finally worked out how you wired it...
Key sw on, Rot pos 1. The voltmeter and green led are in series to pole A. Way 1 being negative.
Way 2 when through toggle switch puts the red led in series with the voltmeter and green led and back to negative connected to Way 1.
So in pos (way)2, nothing works until the toggle is pushed on.
Wow, that hurt......
My childish drawing is available by request only..lol..
Martin

 

[73's de Edd]

Sir The_Tominator . . . . . . . . . . ( Is that you . . . . Ahhhhhhhhhhhh-nold ? . . . . . . because if it was Toiminator, I just know it wud be )


So in looking at your intermixing 4 conditions of switch positions being shown, here is what is being accomplished, by the very bottom wiring schematic

S o o o o o o o o if you want the green pilot to light irregardless of the RED pilot lights state, can the Green pillot just be wired just past the KEY SWITCH master power switch to ground, so that it just stays on all of the time, considering there is DC power in present and the master keyswitch is on ?
Can the voltmeter be done the same way, OR does it need switching to read other ? ? ? ? voltages, and if so, what are they ?
Does that toggle switch at the RED pilot just turn it on, and nothing else ?
Is the single pole 12 position, flipping to other positions, other than the now A-1 and A-2 ?
Since there is a whole TOY box of additional switches, a lock out switch and a pot being mounted on the unit.

In actuality . . . . . .
? ? ? ? ? What EXACTLY is needed to be done in the manner of switching, indicators and voltage monitoring ? ? ? ? ?
Is this going to be just a lights and switch box, or is it to evolve into one fantasteriffic SOOPER DOOPER POCKET ROCKET LAUNCHER ?

WIRING SCHEMATIC BREAKDOWN

https://i.postimg.cc/k9vffR9J/CONTROL-BOX-SCHEMA.png


73's de Edd . . . . .



The difference between a stepping stone and a stumbling block can be IF and when you see it.

 

[Martaine2005]

That's what I said @73's de Edd .
Only as usual, you put it much better than I did.

Martin

 

[73's de Edd]

But . . .but . . .BUT . . . .BUT . . . BUT . . .

Key sw on, Rot pos 1. The voltmeter and green led are in series to pole A. Way 1 being negative.
Way 2 when through toggle switch puts the red led in series with the voltmeter and green led and back to negative connected to Way 1.
So in pos (way)2, nothing works until the toggle is pushed on.

Neglected your relevant drawing

Plus MUCH more info on WHAT is wanting to be accomplished must be filled in on.

 

[The_Tominator]

Sir The_Tominator . . . . . . . . . . ( Is that you . . . . Ahhhhhhhhhhhh-nold ? . . . . . . because if it was Toiminator, I just know it wud be )


So in looking at your intermixing 4 conditions of switch positions being shown, here is what is being accomplished, by the very bottom wiring schematic

S o o o o o o o o if you want the green pilot to light irregardless of the RED pilot lights state, can the Green pillot just be wired just past the KEY SWITCH master power switch to ground, so that it just stays on all of the time, considering there is DC power in present and the master keyswitch is on ?
Can the voltmeter be done the same way, OR does it need switching to read other ? ? ? ? voltages, and if so, what are they ?
Does that toggle switch at the RED pilot just turn it on, and nothing else ?
Is the single pole 12 position, flipping to other positions, other than the now A-1 and A-2 ?
Since there is a whole TOY box of additional switches, a lock out switch and a pot being mounted on the unit.

In actuality . . . . . .
? ? ? ? ? What EXACTLY is needed to be done in the manner of switching, indicators and voltage monitoring ? ? ? ? ?
Is this going to be just a lights and switch box, or is it to evolve into one fantasteriffic SOOPER DOOPER POCKET ROCKET LAUNCHER?

WIRING SCHEMATIC BREAKDOWN

https://i.postimg.cc/k9vffR9J/CONTROL-BOX-SCHEMA.png


73's de Edd . . . . .



The difference between a stepping stone and a stumbling block can be IF and when you see it.

Thanks very much, old chap, I shall now explain why I have so many switches.
The circuit with the RED LED is what I am building now.
Basically, the Red LED is a pilot light to show whether the voltage is on or not at the switch.
You may have noticed a larger switch next to it. This larger switch will be used to turn on the next circuit which I have got the parts for and will start building. This is a DIY solder fume extractor fan which I will route through the switch, then to a boost converter and back to negative.
The other 2 sets of switched and the POT I am thinking about.
I would like a hydrogen generator, so on one of the sets of switched I will route that through.

If asked for I will upload a circuit diagram (drawn) of the proposed Extractor Fan circuit.
Thanks for the help!!!
Much appreciated!!

 

[The_Tominator]

I was just wondering whether anyone would be kind enough to illustrate me a circuit diagram or image of what I need to re-wire?
Thanks.

 

[73's de Edd]

Will do . . . but as ANNIE says . . . . . . . tomorrow . . . .tomorrow . . . .

 

[The_Tominator]

Will do . . . but as ANNIE says . . . . . . . tomorrow . . . .tomorrow . . . .

Take whatever time you need, I dont need it immediately anyway.