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Maker Pro

"Do not use solvents on electronic equipment"

R

Roy L. Fuchs

Jan 1, 1970
0
Psst... Keith... let it go to the killfile all-fuckin-ready...

You have al-fuckin-ready proven to us that you are an
abso-fuckin-lute retard.
 
Robert said:
Alcohol is not considered a "solvent" for any plastics, metals or
epoxies used in electronics.
It makes for a fair cleaner to remove grease and oils..

The strongest solvent I ever came across here was MEK (methyl ethyl
ketone if I recall correctly). Smells very much like chloroform.
 
D

David Peters

Jan 1, 1970
0
I've had rubbing alcohol ruin the translucent red cover for an
LED display on a couple of pieces of test equipment. Also,
don't let the cleaning folks with their typical spray cleaners
or furniture polishes anywere near stuff you want to see thru
(VCR displays, etc).

I have alswys liked to use spray furniture polish for optics. I
beleive it contain silicon and this leaves a very fine (effectively
optically transaprent) film which is also grease resistent.
 
R

Roy L. Fuchs

Jan 1, 1970
0
I have alswys liked to use spray furniture polish for optics. I
beleive it contain silicon and this leaves a very fine (effectively
optically transaprent) film which is also grease resistent.

RainX is better.
 
J

JW

Jan 1, 1970
0
Anything which removes labels or the glue they leave behind is of
interest to me! Do you know what Goof-Off's active ingredients
are ?

I use BBQ lighter fluid on plastics, with great results. No damage of
finish or paint. Best to test a inconspicuous space first, of course.
 
J

John Savage

Jan 1, 1970
0
Sammy said:
Many instruction booklets for domestic electronic equipment say do
not use cleaning solvents such as alcohol.

Is this advice given simply because they are trying to prevent
possible marking of the plastic casing?

Or can domestic cleaning solvents actually damage the electronics
inside in some way?

Alcohol is one of the more innocuous of the organic solvents. I doubt
that it would attack any plastic case, but other solvents can. One thing
that alcohol can do is dissolve the labelling ink on some circuit boards
or components. This would make repair (i.e., replacement based on the
component value or board number) difficult, maybe dangerous if it
happened that a lower-voltage component were substituted, for example,
because the original component's label had become smudged or obliterated.
Solvents might dissolve the lubricant on switch contacts, or sliders, or
disperse it over potentiometer tracks causing later problems. Spraying
solvent into equipment may damage speaker cones or piezo speakers.

Liberally dripping solvent into equipment may cause it to malfunction,
e.g., an air-gap capacitor trimmer will have different parameters when
the dielectric is liquid solvent, and if the solvent is flammable it
might cause a fire from static electricity or a switching spark. If a
cleaning solution were to leave an hygroscopic residue on a circuit board
this could initiate electrochemical corrosion (copper/brass + lead/steel/
aluminium in contact in a conductive solution). Water-based cleaners with
ammonia will be conductive, so could short out tracks on a board.
 
K

Keith

Jan 1, 1970
0
I use BBQ lighter fluid on plastics, with great results. No damage of
finish or paint. Best to test a inconspicuous space first, of course.

Oh, crap! Now you're in for a lashing at the hands of know-it-all fucks!
How *dare* you contridict the mighty fucks!
 
R

Roy L. Fuchs

Jan 1, 1970
0
One thing
that alcohol can do is dissolve the labelling ink on some circuit boards
or components. This would make repair (i.e., replacement based on the
component value or board number) difficult,


Not true. Chlorinated solvents, yes, but alcohol, a resounding no!

If your PCB maker is using a component silk screen ink that solves
in alcohol, I would question a lot about the quality of other aspects
of his manufactured product as well.

All of the inks I have EVER heard of were all enamels that were
hardy to weak solvents like alcohol. It is actually a UL requirement
IIRC. Same holds true for the makers of heat shrink wrapped and
labeled parts like EL caps and the like.
 
R

Roy L. Fuchs

Jan 1, 1970
0
If a
cleaning solution were to leave an hygroscopic residue on a circuit board
this could initiate electrochemical corrosion

A PCB is ALREADY hygroscopic unless it has been conformally coated.
 
R

Roy L. Fuchs

Jan 1, 1970
0
Oh, crap! Now you're in for a lashing at the hands of know-it-all fucks!
How *dare* you contridict the mighty fucks!


The word for today is VULCANIZATION. Something which has obviously
occurred in both of your skull cavities.
 
J

JW

Jan 1, 1970
0
The word for today is VULCANIZATION. Something which has obviously
occurred in both of your skull cavities.

The last time you picked your nose you must've inadvertently pulled your
brain out - you probably didn't notice due to it's rather small size.
Examine the underside of your chair, it may still be there.
 
J

John Savage

Jan 1, 1970
0
David Peters said:
Anything which removes labels or the glue they leave behind is of
interest to me! Do you know what Goof-Off's active ingredients are ?

An effective goo remover is peanut butter (aka peanut paste). In the
absence of peanut butter, use WD-40. Both leave a smudge of oil, but
that's easily cleaned up with a drop of detergent on a damp tissue.

On a metal or glass surface, tea tree oil and mineral turps are both
good at removing sticker goo, but these can attack paint and plastics
so don't use on such surfaces unless you are willing to accept some
surface spoilage.
 
R

Roy L. Fuchs

Jan 1, 1970
0
The last time you picked your nose you must've inadvertently pulled your
brain out - you probably didn't notice due to it's rather small size.
Examine the underside of your chair, it may still be there.


Does your retarded ass even know what "BBQ Lighter Fluid" is
comprised of?
 
D

David Peters

Jan 1, 1970
0
The word for today is VULCANIZATION. Something which has
obviously
occurred in both of your skull cavities.


PMFJI but can plastic be vulcanized? I know rubber and sulphur
heated tother will vulcanize the rubber but is it much the same
process with a plastic. I check this
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plastic but it didn't help,


BTW is the awful stink you can occasionally smell coming from some
makes of office rubber bands due to the lack or perhaps excess of
proper vulcanization?
 
R

Roy L. Fuchs

Jan 1, 1970
0
PMFJI but can plastic be vulcanized? I know rubber and sulphur
heated tother will vulcanize the rubber but is it much the same
process with a plastic. I check this
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plastic but it didn't help,

The term does NOT only refer to the process as it relates to rubber,
even though it was originally coined for that industrial process. The
term refers to a tempering action.

Did you search up "vulcanization"?
BTW is the awful stink you can occasionally smell coming from some
makes of office rubber bands due to the lack or perhaps excess of
proper vulcanization?

Rubber bands are usually gum rubber and are likely not vulcanized at
all.

the Wiki concentrates on the rubber process as well, but mentions
other polymers.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vulcanization

The dictionary clearly states both rubbers and plastics.

http://m-w.com/dictionary/vulcanization

I use the term simply to describe a firming or hardening or "drying
out" of a plastic, making it brittle or crazed.

It may not be the proper term (likely not), but was used by past
associates, and I understood the inference, as I was able to see the
result. It is likely not the right term for what some solvents do to
some plastics that cause their bonds to break. In fact, in that
light, one would call it quite the opposite.
 
D

David Peters

Jan 1, 1970
0
The term does NOT only refer to the process as it relates to
rubber,
even though it was originally coined for that industrial
process. The term refers to a tempering action.

Did you search up "vulcanization"?


Rubber bands are usually gum rubber and are likely not
vulcanized at
all.

the Wiki concentrates on the rubber process as well, but
mentions other polymers.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vulcanization

The dictionary clearly states both rubbers and plastics.

Yes, I see it does.
http://m-w.com/dictionary/vulcanization

I use the term simply to describe a firming or hardening or
"drying
out" of a plastic, making it brittle or crazed.

It may not be the proper term (likely not), but was used by
past
associates, and I understood the inference, as I was able to see
the result. It is likely not the right term for what some
solvents do to some plastics that cause their bonds to break.
In fact, in that light, one would call it quite the opposite.

Thank you for the explanation. I think I had the wrong end of the
stick as I was thinking that vulcanization somehow improved the life
of plastics in the way it does for rubber! Oops.
 
R

Roy L. Fuchs

Jan 1, 1970
0
Yes, I see it does.


Also, bought in store tube of "RTV" The acronym means "Room
Temperature Vulcanization". It isn't rubber, and there is no heat or
sulfur involved.
 
R

Roy L. Fuchs

Jan 1, 1970
0
Thank you for the explanation. I think I had the wrong end of the
stick as I was thinking that vulcanization somehow improved the life
of plastics in the way it does for rubber! Oops.

It appears that it firms up rubber, and makes it stronger and
better, but it seems to "firm up" plastics, and make them brittle or
even cause micro-fractures in their molecular lattices.

I am sure the chemistry group boys could explain it a lot better
than a lay person such as I as it relates to plastics and their
interactions with various solvents. If they are even reading the
thread.
 
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