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Would like some tips on types & brands of solder,rosin/flux,solvents,cleaners etc.

Discussion in 'General Electronics Discussion' started by midnight coffee, Aug 24, 2013.

  1. midnight coffee

    midnight coffee

    7
    0
    Oct 4, 2012
    Sorry I haven't been on awhile.I'm back and will try to post my projects when I get going.It will mostly be computer stuff.Well I have looked around & read a little,their is to many companies selling solder etc lol.I will link what i'm looking at.
    Kester
    http://www.kester.com/products/?typ...=&filters[]=&filters[]=18&filters[]=&limit=40
    KappZapp7R™ Rosin-cored Solder
    http://www.solderdirect.com/all-pro...ppzapp-1/kappzapp7rtm-rosin-cored-solder.html
    KappZapp7™
    http://www.solderdirect.com/all-products/kappzapp7tm.html
    Zeph solder
    http://www.zeph.com/solderwire.htm
    I know it depends on what I am working on but what is the best overall solder material for electronics like computers,tvs,audio,etc?
    I seen this company called caig,man they are they dedicated on cleaners etc:) !I'm looking at these products from them.
    DeoxIT® D-Series D100S Spray, 100% solution
    http://store.caig.com/s.nl/it.A/id.1605/.f?sc=2&category=188
    DeoxIT®solvent washes
    http://store.caig.com/s.nl/sc.2/category.1790/.f
    DeoxIT ® Rosin Flux
    http://store.caig.com/s.nl/sc.2/category.2341/.f
    Have any of you used these or regularly use these products/brands?The only solder I used is the cheap kind from walmart or radioshack,it works but I don't like it when it pops & spatters sometimes.Its not much at all when it would happen but it got on my cheeck once & man it burned bad:eek: .Idk if this is normal for rosin cored solder but I don't like it doing that to me.
     
    Last edited: Aug 24, 2013
  2. (*steve*)

    (*steve*) ¡sǝpodᴉʇuɐ ǝɥʇ ɹɐǝɥd Moderator

    25,152
    2,671
    Jan 21, 2010
    There are several things to consider:

    1) brand name -- a "brand name" supplier is going to be a better bet than no-name brand. (not always better, but...)

    2) Type of solder -- leaded vs non-leaded is the biggest choice today, and they do behave differently. I'd recommend using leaded solder if you can, and certainly to learn with.

    3) Solder composition - Apart from just leaded or lead-free, there are various compositions. 60/40 and 63/37 sound very similar, but there is a reasonably dramatic difference,

    I have never been disappointed with the quality of brand name (Kester is an example) nor of the quality of solder I have bought from a reputable dealer (including their "home brand" product).

    I have purchased solder from a nameless seller in China and the best I can say is that it's just OK.

    I'm not a great buyer of flux, so I'll leave those questions to others, but I would expect similar heuristics.

    Solder is certainly one of the cheapest things you'll buy (considering how long it lasts). Buy a large roll of good quality solder and you'll be happy for a long time.

    I purchased a reel of solder when I was in school for a price that I thought was an arm and a leg. It was probably one of my better purchases.
     
  3. shrtrnd

    shrtrnd

    3,649
    450
    Jan 15, 2010
    *steve* pretty much covered it.
    Most rosin core solders have flux in them (that's the rosin core), you don't need
    additional solder flux to make connections. The only time I use flux, is when I'm
    using DE-soldering braid (solder-wick), but many solder-wicks also now have flux on
    them to help with desoldering.
    Like *steve* said, you won't go wrong buying Kester solder.
    The lead-free solders have a higher melting temperature. I don't use them unless I
    need to. I hate subjecting the componets I'm soldering to any more heat than is
    necessary.
    And lastly, if you're splashing yourself, make sure you're wearing safety glasses when
    you work.
     
  4. midnight coffee

    midnight coffee

    7
    0
    Oct 4, 2012
    I read most electronics,especially computers have leadfree solder in them.The solder I been using is lead free so I think im use to working with it.I been soldering desoldering stuff here & their for about 6yrs now.
    I might go with kester,still up in the air with what solder to get.lead free don't really bother me.Plus I don't have a cheap $5 15W iron.I got a 2in1 rework station,60w iron on it.640w gun.Can go up to 480*C on both,of course I wouldn't use it that high though lol.I might get solder with a good silver content that works around 220*-240*,I think thats the average temps for working with leadfree.I will most likely get solid solder,thin dia.I was trying to find some kapton tape locally but guess ill have to get it on the internet aswell.I will also get the deoxit rosin flux,solvent washes,& a can of D100s spray.

    I will be working on motherboard sockets sometimes.I seen a few vids of people working on them.They use a chisel like solder tip & layer the socket mount with rosin/flux after socket is removed.When they move the iron around on it,the iron wicks up the solder into a large ball.They seem to just lift it up & whip it off to the side but I think I will have a good sucker handy.Knowing my luck it would plop down on the board if I tried that lol.
    Here is a rework nozzle(38x38) I plan on getting,should fit a 1155socket(37.5mm) good.It will fit my heat gun.
    http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NDE2WDY0M...h6nPFrBRtq3TLQ7g~~60_12.JPG?set_id=880000500F

    I got a GPU(graphics card) that has like a whiteish film/spots on some of the solder joints.Its not solid,it looks like dried flour after it lands on a wet spot I guess you could say.Idk what it is or what causes it.But I think if I spray deoxit wash then some D100S it should look like new.I would post pics but don't have a cam good enough to pick it up.You have to look kinda hard to notice it.Doesn't smell burnt anywhere.
     
    Last edited: Aug 31, 2013
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