Panasonic Q SL-GC10 seached all over for info on it i find nothing
Could the diode and the board it was mounted on have come from this ancient Panasonic game console?
So you think good to go with the 1N97? also best place to buy from
|Thanks again
steve
I DID NOT say it was a 1N97. I DID NOT say you are "good to go with the 1N97." What I DID say was you needed to perform some tests, presumably on the "good" diode that you removed from another location on the board, to determine just what kind of diode you have. Be aware, however, that unless you took appropriate precautions not to overheat it while un-soldering the "good" diode, it may not be a "good" diode anymore.
Also, the color-coded bands may mean NOTHING as far as identifying a commercially available part. The two colored bands may have only been applied so the manufacturer of the circuit board could identify them from among similar-appearing diodes. It is not uncommon for manufacturers to conceal, or even remove, the part numbers that identify commercially available parts. Fortunately, most diodes are simple enough that suitable substitutes can be found by measuring the characteristics of a "known good" diode.
A competent electronics technician (are you one of them, or can you get one to help you?) can rig up a voltage-adjustable power supply, appropriate current-limiting resistors, and a digital voltmeter to test the diode functionality and the parameters associated with that functionality. Knowing those parameters will help determine what kind of diode you have. You can then use a parameter search engine, such as found on DigiKey, to find a suitable replacement.
Your diode may be either a
germanium diode, which has a lower forward-voltage characteristic as a function of forward current, or it may be a
silicon diode, which has a greater forward-voltage characteristic as a function of forward current. Use Google to find out the main differences between germanium and silicon diodes.
The diode may be a
power diode, capable of hundreds of milliamperes of current, with a reverse-voltage capability of several dozen to several hundred volts. This is hard to determine non-destructively, so best to leave that question for last, or not try to test.
The diode may be a
signal diode, capable of quickly responding to signal polarity changes at megahertz rates.
The diode may be a
zener diode, capable with the proper current-limiting resistor of maintaining a fairly constant voltage across the diode when the diode is biased in the reverse conduction direction.
The diode may be an
avalanche diode, behaving similar to a zener diode but with a larger constant-voltage drop across the reverse-biased diode.
The above descriptions do not by any means exhaust all possible diode types, but it is unlikely that your diode is, just to mention three examples, a tunnel diode or a Gunn diode or a varactor diode. All of these require special test equipment to measure their operating parameters and none are likely to be used in a mass-marketed game toy... even an expensive one.