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Martaine2005
- May 12, 2015
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Your picture is probably too big. Try reducing the size or try copy and paste into the text window.
I for one, cannot open rar files on my phone.
Martin
I for one, cannot open rar files on my phone.
Martin
Martaine2005
- May 12, 2015
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Don’t go buying anything just yet.
This is purely a guess as per the colour bands. My guess is a 9.7v zener diode.
Please wait for confirmation or not!!. I have seen similar which have simply been 1N4148 signal diodes.
Martin
This is purely a guess as per the colour bands. My guess is a 9.7v zener diode.
Please wait for confirmation or not!!. I have seen similar which have simply been 1N4148 signal diodes.
Martin
Martaine2005
- May 12, 2015
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The board marking suggests a signal diode, the actual diode suggests otherwise.
Somebody will be along soon to say 100%.
Martin
Somebody will be along soon to say 100%.
Martin
Thank you for your time Martin
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If the white and violet color bands mean anything (white=9, violet=7), this could be a 1N97 "gold bonded" germanium diode. Although it appears to be intact, check it out for electrical functionality using the diode function of your multi-meter. No diode function? Then use an ohmmeter and check for forward and reverse conduction. No ohmmeter? See @davenn's Signature Line quote of Sheldon Cooper regarding a creek and a canoe without a paddle. Your "cheap tester" appears to show the diode has a forward voltage drop of about 0.9 volts, whatever that means, so probably NOT a germanium diode.
Seriously, also check out this datasheet. It's clearly a diode, but further testing is required to determine what kind of diode it is... assuming it is still functional. Do you have access to the schematic for the board this diode was removed from? Single-side, phenolic-based, circuit boards are really "old school" technology today, but Google may be able to help you find out more about this one.
Seriously, also check out this datasheet. It's clearly a diode, but further testing is required to determine what kind of diode it is... assuming it is still functional. Do you have access to the schematic for the board this diode was removed from? Single-side, phenolic-based, circuit boards are really "old school" technology today, but Google may be able to help you find out more about this one.
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Hi its from a
Panasonic Q SL-GC10 seached all over for info on it i find nothing the diode is dead the one in the teaster is another i took fron the boad to try and find out what it is. Thanks for your help
Steve
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Martaine2005
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So you think good to go with the 1N97? also best place to buy from
|Thanks again
steve
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Could the diode and the board it was mounted on have come from this ancient Panasonic game console?
I DID NOT say it was a 1N97. I DID NOT say you are "good to go with the 1N97." What I DID say was you needed to perform some tests, presumably on the "good" diode that you removed from another location on the board, to determine just what kind of diode you have. Be aware, however, that unless you took appropriate precautions not to overheat it while un-soldering the "good" diode, it may not be a "good" diode anymore.
Also, the color-coded bands may mean NOTHING as far as identifying a commercially available part. The two colored bands may have only been applied so the manufacturer of the circuit board could identify them from among similar-appearing diodes. It is not uncommon for manufacturers to conceal, or even remove, the part numbers that identify commercially available parts. Fortunately, most diodes are simple enough that suitable substitutes can be found by measuring the characteristics of a "known good" diode.
A competent electronics technician (are you one of them, or can you get one to help you?) can rig up a voltage-adjustable power supply, appropriate current-limiting resistors, and a digital voltmeter to test the diode functionality and the parameters associated with that functionality. Knowing those parameters will help determine what kind of diode you have. You can then use a parameter search engine, such as found on DigiKey, to find a suitable replacement.
Your diode may be either a germanium diode, which has a lower forward-voltage characteristic as a function of forward current, or it may be a silicon diode, which has a greater forward-voltage characteristic as a function of forward current. Use Google to find out the main differences between germanium and silicon diodes.
The diode may be a power diode, capable of hundreds of milliamperes of current, with a reverse-voltage capability of several dozen to several hundred volts. This is hard to determine non-destructively, so best to leave that question for last, or not try to test.
The diode may be a signal diode, capable of quickly responding to signal polarity changes at megahertz rates.
The diode may be a zener diode, capable with the proper current-limiting resistor of maintaining a fairly constant voltage across the diode when the diode is biased in the reverse conduction direction.
The diode may be an avalanche diode, behaving similar to a zener diode but with a larger constant-voltage drop across the reverse-biased diode.
The above descriptions do not by any means exhaust all possible diode types, but it is unlikely that your diode is, just to mention three examples, a tunnel diode or a Gunn diode or a varactor diode. All of these require special test equipment to measure their operating parameters and none are likely to be used in a mass-marketed game toy... even an expensive one.
Yes thats the console it came from. Im in no way a technician But im sure with the correct guidance. I could set somthing up on the bench to read the values. If you could advise me on what i need would be great.. This is what a have so far. Bench Power Supply 0 to 30V, Breadboad , Jumper cables mixed ristors. Maybe im just way over my head and should leave all this to the profesionals.
Thanks again for all your time
Steve
OK. After spending 2 hours looking up diode color codes, I ended up on the Matsushita/Panasonic website, translated into English, and came up with this. According to their website it is a MA183 or MA2B183 diode. Finding the spec's wasn't easy either. 600V 1A rectifier.
Wow cant belive you spent all that time looking thank you very much
What and how is the best pace to buy. as you can tell im new to all this A 1N4005 has the exact same 1A 600V spec's. It is available everywhere, such as Mouser or Digikey. This one has a glass package like the original: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetai...rs/1N4005GP-E3-73?qs=N4vtoAxH/SrnrLZEFs90/Q==
The other package it is commonly in is a solid black body with somewhat thicker leads which may not fit the holes on the PC board. You can drill the holes and make the black one fit if you have to. The band on the 1N4005 (cathode) installs in the hole that the white band on the original went into. Good luck!
The other package it is commonly in is a solid black body with somewhat thicker leads which may not fit the holes on the PC board. You can drill the holes and make the black one fit if you have to. The band on the 1N4005 (cathode) installs in the hole that the white band on the original went into. Good luck!
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