Connect with us

Alarm Dual Beam Photoelectric Infrared Detector

Discussion in 'General Electronics Discussion' started by nichos, Mar 3, 2016.

Scroll to continue with content
  1. nichos

    nichos

    15
    0
    Mar 3, 2016
    Hi,

    I purchased on eBay this Chinese "Alarm Dual Beam Photoelectric Infrared Detector" (Item:-161915006278) & as usual info is minimal.

    I powered Transmitter & receiver with 12v adaptors & connected a small Maplin buzzer.

    On the bench the lights come on but cutting the beam gives no buz.

    The only reference to electrics they gave me is this below, with no word as to what connects to where. The power + & - seems evident but the "alarm" & "Tamper" ?

    PS. I use another smaller & simpler beam alarm with similar Piezo buzzer.

    Anybody has an electrical circuit for this?
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Mar 3, 2016
  2. Harald Kapp

    Harald Kapp Moderator Moderator

    11,703
    2,717
    Nov 17, 2011
    How did you connect the buzzer? The alarm output is only a relay contact. Putting the buzzer between these terminals will not evoke any reaction. You need to connect one side of the buzzer to e.g. 12V, the other side to one of the alarm contacts. The second alarm contact then goes to ground (0V).

    It is not obvious whether you need to short circuit the "forestall disassemble switch terminals" or not. Try both settings.
     
  3. nichos

    nichos

    15
    0
    Mar 3, 2016
    Thank you,

    The buzzer only has 2 wires & I connected them as I did to the other alarm that works.

    Excuse my ignorance, am not electrician, what this means " "forestall disassemble switch terminals" & what is it fore? Did you notice the scans? .....nick
     
  4. Harald Kapp

    Harald Kapp Moderator Moderator

    11,703
    2,717
    Nov 17, 2011
    This is not helpful: how is that connection? Is it as I described?

    That's what the second image, the supposed "datasheet" says. I can only guess that these are input contacts to the alarm meant to be connected to mechanical switches which close when the cabinet is opened where the alarm is mounted. When the switch closes (or opens, This can't be seen from the "datasheet") an alarm will sound. This would be to prevent an intruder to simply disconnect the buzzer because to get acces to the alarm he'd have to open the cabinet and thus sound the alarm.
     
  5. nichos

    nichos

    15
    0
    Mar 3, 2016
    "...
    You need to connect one side of the buzzer to e.g. 12V, the other side to one of the alarm contacts. The second alarm contact then goes to ground (0V)...."

    Please explain:-
    1. one side of buzer to12v,
    2. the other side to alarm contact,
    3. second alarm contact then goes to ground (0V)

    It looks like I need 3 wires? nick
     
  6. Harald Kapp

    Harald Kapp Moderator Moderator

    11,703
    2,717
    Nov 17, 2011
    Yes, like this:
    upload_2016-3-3_12-10-45.png
    Otherwise, where would power for the buzzer come from?
     
  7. nichos

    nichos

    15
    0
    Mar 3, 2016
    Thanx again,

    beats me I'll try & see how on the 12v adaptor wires.

    would this scan be right? can you correct me please?
     

    Attached Files:

  8. Harald Kapp

    Harald Kapp Moderator Moderator

    11,703
    2,717
    Nov 17, 2011
    No, how would positive voltage reach the buzzer?

    See here:
    upload_2016-3-3_14-7-54.png
     
  9. nichos

    nichos

    15
    0
    Mar 3, 2016
    Thank you very much, I told you of my ignorance, you bear no responsibility after all I knew it all along........hope it works...

    Will be back with news. .............nick
     
  10. nichos

    nichos

    15
    0
    Mar 3, 2016
    Unfortunately I failed to make it work.

    Please note 3, 4, & 5. Should there be an external wire to 4?

    Even tried/moved the small toggle switches that operate When the cover is removed.

    With the 6 & 7 connected with a wire when powered the middle "Level" red & the "good" green leds come on but not the left red "alarm".
     

    Attached Files:

  11. Harald Kapp

    Harald Kapp Moderator Moderator

    11,703
    2,717
    Nov 17, 2011
    3-4 is a normally closed contact. It opens on alarm.
    3-5 is a normally open contact. It closes on alarm. This is what you should use´for the buzzer.
    4-5 will never have any contact.
     
  12. nichos

    nichos

    15
    0
    Mar 3, 2016
    Tried the buzzer 3 & 5 but on power up the left red "Alarm" led flashes once & stays off. No buzzing.

    Please see in post 10 above where similar shows the left "alarm" red led off with the red "Level" & green "Good" on.
     
  13. Harald Kapp

    Harald Kapp Moderator Moderator

    11,703
    2,717
    Nov 17, 2011
    Did you try the buzzzer alone? Does it buzz when connected directly to the power supply?
    Does the alarm LED light up when the IR beam is interrupted?
    Do you hear a click-sound from teh receiver when the alarm is active, indictaing tha the alarm relay has been activated?

    Otherwise I'm out of my wits with this remote diagonosis.
     
  14. nichos

    nichos

    15
    0
    Mar 3, 2016
    I have both with covers off facing each other on the bench.

    Yes it buzzes loud when directly on power.

    No only flashes & stays off when I switch the power on.

    No click, dead.

    I ca't find what I do wrong. They could be unserviceable of course.

    Should there be an electrical connection between the T & the R.? they are powered separately with the R. green "power" led on.
     
    Last edited: Mar 4, 2016
  15. Harald Kapp

    Harald Kapp Moderator Moderator

    11,703
    2,717
    Nov 17, 2011
    Doesn't sound good :(

    Does it make a difference whether you connect the "forestall disassemble switch terminals" or not?
     
  16. nichos

    nichos

    15
    0
    Mar 3, 2016
    Just connected both "Tampers" on T. & R. but makes no difference.

    Shall I get eBay to try & replace them? or I'll try and find other inexpensive makes.
     
  17. Harald Kapp

    Harald Kapp Moderator Moderator

    11,703
    2,717
    Nov 17, 2011
    Whatever you want. With inexpensive ones you'll always risk low quality.
     
  18. nichos

    nichos

    15
    0
    Mar 3, 2016
  19. ChosunOne

    ChosunOne

    416
    120
    Jun 20, 2010
    Before you finally give up on it...Some of those tamper circuits can be trickier than you'd think. Rather than just jump out the terminals (if that's what you did), try closing up the housing before testing and see if that makes a difference.
     
  20. nichos

    nichos

    15
    0
    Mar 3, 2016
    OK I'll do that but, with covers removed the toggle switch does the same?

    But first can you wire up the the attached icon as it seems to me it does not much with the schematic in post #8.

    The other thing is that I mentioned a couple of times the center red led labelled "LEVEL".
    Now I have the bazer wires on 3 & 5 & when I swivel the body the leds now & then change on or of as if there is a mercury level switch!?, & same thing if I tap the body.
     

    Attached Files:

Ask a Question
Want to reply to this thread or ask your own question?
You'll need to choose a username for the site, which only take a couple of moments (here). After that, you can post your question and our members will help you out.
Electronics Point Logo
Continue to site
Quote of the day

-