Alarm Dual Beam Photoelectric Infrared Detector

[nichos]

Hi,

I purchased on eBay this Chinese "Alarm Dual Beam Photoelectric Infrared Detector" (Item:-161915006278) & as usual info is minimal.

I powered Transmitter & receiver with 12v adaptors & connected a small Maplin buzzer.

On the bench the lights come on but cutting the beam gives no buz.

The only reference to electrics they gave me is this below, with no word as to what connects to where. The power + & - seems evident but the "alarm" & "Tamper" ?

PS. I use another smaller & simpler beam alarm with similar Piezo buzzer.

Anybody has an electrical circuit for this?

 

[Harald Kapp]

How did you connect the buzzer? The alarm output is only a relay contact. Putting the buzzer between these terminals will not evoke any reaction. You need to connect one side of the buzzer to e.g. 12V, the other side to one of the alarm contacts. The second alarm contact then goes to ground (0V).

It is not obvious whether you need to short circuit the "forestall disassemble switch terminals" or not. Try both settings.

 

[nichos]

Thank you,

The buzzer only has 2 wires & I connected them as I did to the other alarm that works.

Excuse my ignorance, am not electrician, what this means " "forestall disassemble switch terminals" & what is it fore? Did you notice the scans? .....nick

 

[Harald Kapp]

The buzzer only has 2 wires & I connected them as I did to the other alarm that works.

This is not helpful: how is that connection? Is it as I described?

Excuse my ignorance, am not electrician, what this means " "forestall disassemble switch terminals" & what is it fore? Did you notice the scans?

That's what the second image, the supposed "datasheet" says. I can only guess that these are input contacts to the alarm meant to be connected to mechanical switches which close when the cabinet is opened where the alarm is mounted. When the switch closes (or opens, This can't be seen from the "datasheet") an alarm will sound. This would be to prevent an intruder to simply disconnect the buzzer because to get acces to the alarm he'd have to open the cabinet and thus sound the alarm.

 

[nichos]

"...
You need to connect one side of the buzzer to e.g. 12V, the other side to one of the alarm contacts. The second alarm contact then goes to ground (0V)...."

Please explain:-
1. one side of buzer to12v,
2. the other side to alarm contact,
3. second alarm contact then goes to ground (0V)

It looks like I need 3 wires? nick

 

[Harald Kapp]

Yes, like this:

Otherwise, where would power for the buzzer come from?

 

[nichos]

Thanx again,

beats me I'll try & see how on the 12v adaptor wires.

would this scan be right? can you correct me please?

 

[Harald Kapp]

No, how would positive voltage reach the buzzer?

See here:

 

[nichos]

Thank you very much, I told you of my ignorance, you bear no responsibility after all I knew it all along........hope it works...

Will be back with news. .............nick

 

[nichos]

Unfortunately I failed to make it work.

Please note 3, 4, & 5. Should there be an external wire to 4?

Even tried/moved the small toggle switches that operate When the cover is removed.

With the 6 & 7 connected with a wire when powered the middle "Level" red & the "good" green leds come on but not the left red "alarm".

 

[Harald Kapp]

3-4 is a normally closed contact. It opens on alarm.
3-5 is a normally open contact. It closes on alarm. This is what you should use´for the buzzer.
4-5 will never have any contact.

 

[nichos]

Tried the buzzer 3 & 5 but on power up the left red "Alarm" led flashes once & stays off. No buzzing.

Please see in post 10 above where similar shows the left "alarm" red led off with the red "Level" & green "Good" on.

 

[Harald Kapp]

Did you try the buzzzer alone? Does it buzz when connected directly to the power supply?
Does the alarm LED light up when the IR beam is interrupted?
Do you hear a click-sound from teh receiver when the alarm is active, indictaing tha the alarm relay has been activated?

Otherwise I'm out of my wits with this remote diagonosis.

 

[nichos]

I have both with covers off facing each other on the bench.

Yes it buzzes loud when directly on power.

No only flashes & stays off when I switch the power on.

No click, dead.

I ca't find what I do wrong. They could be unserviceable of course.

Should there be an electrical connection between the T & the R.? they are powered separately with the R. green "power" led on.

 

[Harald Kapp]

No only flashes & stays off when I switch the power on.

No click, dead. They could be unserviceable of course.

Doesn't sound good

Does it make a difference whether you connect the "forestall disassemble switch terminals" or not?

 

[nichos]

Just connected both "Tampers" on T. & R. but makes no difference.

Shall I get eBay to try & replace them? or I'll try and find other inexpensive makes.

 

[Harald Kapp]

Whatever you want. With inexpensive ones you'll always risk low quality.

 

[nichos]

OK thanx,

If you could not make it work maybe is US.

The other cheap & simpler one is still working after 8 yrs & had no difficulty installing it myself.

I'll get eBay to replace it or try this similar thing.:-

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-Beams-P...Alarm-Home-Security-Sysetem-NEW-/170858537112

 

[ChosunOne]

Before you finally give up on it...Some of those tamper circuits can be trickier than you'd think. Rather than just jump out the terminals (if that's what you did), try closing up the housing before testing and see if that makes a difference.

 

[nichos]

OK I'll do that but, with covers removed the toggle switch does the same?

But first can you wire up the the attached icon as it seems to me it does not much with the schematic in post #8.

The other thing is that I mentioned a couple of times the center red led labelled "LEVEL".
Now I have the bazer wires on 3 & 5 & when I swivel the body the leds now & then change on or of as if there is a mercury level switch!?, & same thing if I tap the body.