Voltage regulator?

[ATS Elect]

I am working on a project that requires a supply 12 volts DC @ 500 ma. I
have been using a wall wart to power it but now would like to find a
minature soulotion that I can integrate onto the board for my next board
run. Is there an minature, low cost component that will rectify and drop the
voltage from 110 v AC to 12 v DC? I already know that I can just use a small
wall wart and get a bigger case but I need something small, low cost &
perferably TH mounted.

Maybe there is a better solution you can share with me. Any would be
appreciated!

Thanks in advance!

 

[Tam/WB2TT]

I am working on a project that requires a supply 12 volts DC @ 500 ma. I
have been using a wall wart to power it but now would like to find a
minature soulotion that I can integrate onto the board for my next board
run. Is there an minature, low cost component that will rectify and drop the
voltage from 110 v AC to 12 v DC? I already know that I can just use a small
wall wart and get a bigger case but I need something small, low cost &
perferably TH mounted.

Maybe there is a better solution you can share with me. Any would be
appreciated!

Thanks in advance!

Aren't you going to need all kinds of regulatory approvals if you bring the
110VAC into the case? Don't undreratand the part about a wall wart requiring
a bigger case.
If you really want it, I think Astrodyne makes what you want.
Tam

 

[Michael A. Covington]

For a commercial product, the advantage of a wall wart is that it passes
fire safety certifications (UL, etc.) and since it delivers low voltage at
limited current, your product doesn't have to undergo the same tests. At
least that what I've been given to understand.

You can certainly buy ready-made power-supply modules to fit inside your own
device; www.jameco.com has many of them (many of which are surplus
bargains).

As for building your own, see Radio Shack's book, "Building Power Supplies."

 

[Ban]

I am working on a project that requires a supply 12 volts DC @ 500
ma. I have been using a wall wart to power it but now would like to
find a minature soulotion that I can integrate onto the board for my
next board run. Is there an minature, low cost component that will
rectify and drop the voltage from 110 v AC to 12 v DC? I already know
that I can just use a small wall wart and get a bigger case but I
need something small, low cost & perferably TH mounted.

Maybe there is a better solution you can share with me. Any would be
appreciated!

Thanks in advance!

Do you live in some banana republic, otherwise you should have by now
realized that the US mains voltage is 120V. If this is already an indication
of your knowledge of security measures required, you should better leave it
the way it is, mains on a circuit board is always nasty and you do not want
to end up in jail, do you?

 

[Mortel]

Do you live in some banana republic, otherwise you should have by now

realized that the US mains voltage is 120V. If this is already an indication
of your knowledge of security measures required, you should better leave it
the way it is, mains on a circuit board is always nasty and you do not want
to end up in jail, do you?

For your information, the voltage in North America oscillates between 110V
and 120V. If you measure voltage in my house you can have 111V and if you
go by the other side of the street you will get 115V and so on. This is the
reality, I don't think it can be a "Security" issue since once redressed,
the voltage can be properly regulated. You're a little quick to end in
conclusions, you don't know at all how this guy works and you're sending him
to jail only based on an information that you didn't verify... for me this
is a nonsense.

Mortel­.

 

[William P.N. Smith]

[should have] realized that the US mains voltage is 120V

Actually, mains voltage can vary from 95 to 135 volts, plus or minus,
so everyone knows what we're talking about whether we call it 110,115,
120, or whatever. No need to be quite as helpful as you were.

 

[Spehro Pefhany]

For your information, the voltage in North America oscillates between 110V
and 120V.

The average mains voltage here is actually zero, but mine tends to
oscillate between about +174V and -174V.

Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany

 

[Fred Bloggs]

I am working on a project that requires a supply 12 volts DC @ 500 ma. I
have been using a wall wart to power it but now would like to find a
minature soulotion that I can integrate onto the board for my next board
run. Is there an minature, low cost component that will rectify and drop the
voltage from 110 v AC to 12 v DC? I already know that I can just use a small
wall wart and get a bigger case but I need something small, low cost &
perferably TH mounted.

Maybe there is a better solution you can share with me. Any would be
appreciated!

Thanks in advance!

Have at it - hee-hee:

http://www.powerint.com/tiny2product.htm

 

[Tam/WB2TT]

For your information, the voltage in North America oscillates between 110V
and 120V. If you measure voltage in my house you can have 111V and if you
go by the other side of the street you will get 115V and so on. This is the
reality, I don't think it can be a "Security" issue since once redressed,
the voltage can be properly regulated. You're a little quick to end in
conclusions, you don't know at all how this guy works and you're sending him
to jail only based on an information that you didn't verify... for me this
is a nonsense.

Mortel­.

If you look at a US light bulb or appliance, it says 120V. Years ago, the
standard was 117. If I see less than 120, it is a brownout. Usually runs
123 -126.

Tam

 

[Michael A. Covington]

[should have] realized that the US mains voltage is 120V

Actually, mains voltage can vary from 95 to 135 volts, plus or minus,
so everyone knows what we're talking about whether we call it 110,115,
120, or whatever. No need to be quite as helpful as you were.

To be ultra-pedantic, the nominal voltage has been 110, 115, 117, and 120 at
different times during the 20th century. I don't know what it is now, but
the voltage at my house is about 128, and we buy 130-volt light bulbs.

Traditional-minded people still refer to it as "110."

I'm told that in Japan, it's nominally 100 volts.

 

[Ken Smith]

If you look at a US light bulb or appliance, it says 120V. Years ago, the
standard was 117. If I see less than 120, it is a brownout. Usually runs
123 -126.

Oh my gawd! San Jose California is having a brown out; Stop the presses.
The mains voltage is only 118.92V.

Measured with a Fluke 45 with up to date calibration.

 

[Spehro Pefhany]

ATS Elect wrote:
rectify and drop the voltage from 110 v AC to 12 v DC?

[should have] realized that the US mains voltage is 120V

Actually, mains voltage can vary from 95 to 135 volts, plus or minus,
so everyone knows what we're talking about whether we call it 110,115,
120, or whatever. No need to be quite as helpful as you were.

To be ultra-pedantic, the nominal voltage has been 110, 115, 117, and 120 at
different times during the 20th century. I don't know what it is now, but
the voltage at my house is about 128, and we buy 130-volt light bulbs.

Traditional-minded people still refer to it as "110."

I'm told that in Japan, it's nominally 100 volts.

Yes, and I suppose allowing for the 100VAC nominal @ 50Hz that half of
Japan uses adds a tiny bit of cost to millions of switching power
supplies.

Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany

 

[Jan Panteltje]

On a sunny day (Fri, 04 Jun 2004 13:31:18 GMT) it happened Spehro Pefhany

The average mains voltage here is actually zero, but mine tends to
oscillate between about +174V and -174V.

Try a low pass.
JP

 

[Tim Wescott]

If you look at a US light bulb or appliance, it says 120V. Years ago, the
standard was 117. If I see less than 120, it is a brownout. Usually runs
123 -126.

Tam

I generally design for a minimum of 105V to 110V, to avoid those brown
out problems.

 

[Jim Thompson]

On Fri, 04 Jun 2004 08:53:35 -0700, Tim Wescott

[snip]

I generally design for a minimum of 105V to 110V, to avoid those brown
out problems.

Back when I did off-line designs I designed for a range of 88-132VAC.

...Jim Thompson

 

[Tim Wescott]

On Fri, 04 Jun 2004 08:53:35 -0700, Tim Wescott

[snip]

I generally design for a minimum of 105V to 110V, to avoid those brown
out problems.

Back when I did off-line designs I designed for a range of 88-132VAC.

...Jim Thompson

I'll adjust my thinking -- but isn't the 88V to account for brown-out
conditions when your equipment is being used in Japan (60Hz, with
nominal 100V line)?

I didn't know that ECL would work off-line -- don't those chips have a
5.5V maximum supply limit?

 

[Jan Panteltje]

To be ultra-pedantic, the nominal voltage has been 110, 115, 117, and 120 at
different times during the 20th century. I don't know what it is now, but
the voltage at my house is about 128, and we buy 130-volt light bulbs.

You will finally reach 240 as we have ;-)
JP

 

[Jim Thompson]

On Fri, 04 Jun 2004 08:53:35 -0700, Tim Wescott

[snip]

I generally design for a minimum of 105V to 110V, to avoid those brown
out problems.

Back when I did off-line designs I designed for a range of 88-132VAC.

...Jim Thompson

I'll adjust my thinking -- but isn't the 88V to account for brown-out
conditions when your equipment is being used in Japan (60Hz, with
nominal 100V line)?

Yep... universal equipment... also had auto-switch to Euro voltages.

I didn't know that ECL would work off-line -- don't those chips have a
5.5V maximum supply limit?

Toggle once, smoke mostly ;-)

...Jim Thompson

 

[Ken Smith]

Back when I did off-line designs I designed for a range of 88-132VAC.

Luxury! We had to make our own voltages



Some designs are now covering the 90 to 250V range without switches.
Finding the power MOSFETs for those voltages has got to be the biggest
problem. High voltage MOSFETs are still not common. The STP20NM60 looks
to be the best in surface mount.

 

[Soeren]

Hi Jan,

You will finally reach 240 as we have ;-)

Oh, they do have 220V (as "kraft", where we use 410V).
But, by the time they catch up to Real Mens Voltage(tm) in the common
outlet (in a couple of centuries judging by their small steps), we will
be using KillerVolts


--
Regards,
Soeren

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