Sony KV-27EXR25 just clicks, (STRS6301 to "A" or not to "A")

[Lenny]

This set clicks, the degausing coil energizes and thats all. Almost
every solder joint on the power supply board was cold. The Hor out in
circuit does not look shorted. I repaired the solder and the set is
still dead. There is an STRS6301 on the power supply board. I have
seen a few of these bad over the years and usually just replacing them
restores proper operation. However lately I've been reading about the
"A" version of this chip as being improved or better. Then again in
some forums it seems that its not recommended to replace an original
with an "A". Does anyone have any further insight on this? Also not
having a schematic, does anyone have a straight forward
troubleshooting procedure for this chassis or perhaps a published tip
on it that they could possibly share with me? Thanks very much for any
assistance you may be able to offer. Lenny Stein, Barlen Electronics.

 

[john]

Lenny !
Reflow all solder connections on that Module
also ESR all the caps especially thosw close to
the Heat sink.I have always used the STRS6301A
with 100 percent success.

kip

 

[Sofie]

Lenny:
The reply by John/Kip is absolutely correct about the "A" version of the
chip...... 100% success.....
.....and be absolutely certain to ESR check all the electrolytics on the
power supply board.... check and reflow any and all questionable solder
joints.... especially near and around the high heat producing parts like
power resistors, diodes, chips, etc...... AND also on the main pcb look
for bad solder joints on the flyback and HOT and the power resistors,
especially near and around the flyback derived B+ circuitry and the main B+
distribution paths.

 

[RonKZ650]

Yes, but is there a difference in the "Sony A" for $30 or the "generic A" for
$7? I'm going to find out next Sony I work on. The last 2 generics I replaced
were running over 160 degrees F. I think that's really too hot. I'm anxious to
compare the original Sony. Sony still sells both the STRS6301 and 6301A as a
different part number.
Ron

 

[Sofie]

RonKZ650:

I think we will all be interested in your future posting with the comparison
testing results.

"Running too hot" has NEVER been an issue with the $7 "generic" or rather,
after market replacements I get from my jobber. 100% OK.

The markings on the replacement chips that I have always obtained from my
jobber @ $7 appear to be the same as the more expensive Sony supplied
chips.... it looks to me like the SAME manufacturer and almost definitely
NOT some cheapo Hong Kong, inferior, rip-off.with obvious cosmetic
challenges that we are all familiar with.

 

[RonKZ650]

RonKZ650:

I think we will all be interested in your future posting with the comparison
testing results.

I meant to also mention I did the test on RCA STR730 series regulator ICs last
month. On same set, same meter setup, the original RCA STK 730-030 ran 5
degrees cooler at peak, then a generic STK730-150. It also drew less current at
standby, less at normal on conditions, as well as regulating a dead on 140v
where the generic was close to 142v.
I'll post the STRS6301 results soon.
Ron

 

[Tim Marcus]

TELEVISION 
SONY 
KV27EXR25 
DEAD?CLICKING NOISE, B TOO HIGH 
CHECK R673 4.7 FOR OPEN 

TELEVISION 
SONY 
KV27EXR25 
DEAD, CLICKS, SWITCHING XFMR HAS NO POWER OUT-BOARD G 
REPLACE IC651 STRS6301, R656 560, Q611 2SC3311A 

I have repaired several of these - first I swap out the str regulator,
which is almost always bad. Then take care of the cold joints. If that
does not do it one of these 2 tips probably will. best of luck - Tim

 

[Leonard Caillouet]

If you are going to make comparisons, why not compare the generic vs the RCA
in the same version of the chip?

Leonard

 

[Lenny]

Thanks to everyone for the advice. I'm ordering the A version today
and then I'll dive back in. Best regards, Lenny Stein, Barlen
Electronics.

 

[TKL]

My set KV34MN11 also have same CLICKing problem, no screen & sound when
power on. Can i try the same solution? Pls help, thks in advance.

Thanks to everyone for the advice. I'm ordering the A version today
and then I'll dive back in. Best regards, Lenny Stein, Barlen
Electronics.

[email protected] (Tim Marcus) wrote in message

 

[john]

No! Different alltogether but you could
look for bad solder connections first.
Then trouble shoot the power sections.

kpi

 

[Moydock]

This set clicks, the degausing coil energizes and thats all. Almost
every solder joint on the power supply board was cold. The Hor out in
circuit does not look shorted. I repaired the solder and the set is
still dead. There is an STRS6301 on the power supply board. I have
seen a few of these bad over the years and usually just replacing them
restores proper operation. However lately I've been reading about the
"A" version of this chip as being improved or better. Then again in
some forums it seems that its not recommended to replace an original
with an "A". Does anyone have any further insight on this? Also not
having a schematic, does anyone have a straight forward
troubleshooting procedure for this chassis or perhaps a published tip
on it that they could possibly share with me? Thanks very much for any
assistance you may be able to offer. Lenny Stein, Barlen Electronics.

I have the same set and i'm getting the same thing. I've never tried t
fix a tv but I ordered the STRS6301 b/c i'm too poor to have someone fi
it. I'm pretty good with electronics and i've soldered before. Ca
anyone give me some pointers on how I should go about this? Preferabl
some safety tips, maybe how to discharge the tv? I've had it unplugge
for 4 days now but I know that's not nearly long enough. I know i'
suppose to keep 1 hand in my pocket at all times while working on it
However, i'd really rather not get zapped so i'm trying to be a
careful as possible. Any guidance would be great, thanks

 

[sofie]

Moydock / Lenny:
I relace the STRS6301 with the "A" version ALL THE TIME.... not an issue or
problem...... but there are lots and lots of different things other than
the chip that can cause the symptom you reported but it is your money and
time.... and your television.
In addition to replacing the chip you should check for cracked solder
connections all over the power supply board.... and with your ESR meter
check ALL the electrolytics.... check for shorted power diodes on both
primary and secondary side of smps ..... also check around the flyback,
HOT, and HDr xfmr and resolder suspect connections..... as always, check for
shorted HOT.... and there are other various faults unrelated to the power
supply that can cause the symptom you are describing.
Failure to identify and repair these faults can result in premature failure
of the replacement chip.
SAFETY TIPS, repair procedures and troubleshooting information are found on
the website for this newsgroup at
http://www.repairfaq.org/
A MUST READ for the newbie television repair.
After reading the repairfaq if you are still not certain how to proceed and
do not have the proper test equipment including an ESR meter then you would
be best advised to TAKE your television to a service shop for at the very
least a repair cost estimate so you can make an intelligent repair decision
with facts instead of internet guesses. A knowledgeable tech with the
proper skills and test equipment will actually have to perform testing and
troubleshooting to determine the exact failure and faults before giving you
a firm repair cost estimate.