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Samsung TV

rutwad

Mar 9, 2017
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984.jpg My Samsung TV would not power on. Instead, it just clicked like it was trying to come on, then click back off. I took the back off the TV and found the source of the clicking. I am not sure if the same component is bad, or if something else is causing it to click. Either way, I need a replacement for it since I removed the old one. The circuit board is obsolete now so I would really love to fix it if possible. Anyone know where I can purchase the pictured item>
 

davenn

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Sep 5, 2009
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My Samsung TV would not power on. Instead, it just clicked like it was trying to come on, then click back off. I took the back off the TV and found the source of the clicking.

that's a relay, they click when operated

I am not sure if the same component is bad,

probably not

or if something else is causing it to click.

most likely

Either way, I need a replacement for it since I removed the old one.

did you physically damage it whilst you were removing it ?

if it is removed, please show a sharp/well lit photo of the bottom side of the relay


Dave
 

73's de Edd

Aug 21, 2015
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Sir rutwad . . . . . . . .

That was a HIGHLY probable perfectly good part, that was best left alone.
This is the Fujitsu
FTR-F3PA005A relay
The kicker is the odd side mounting and the accompanying right angle bending of its 4 longer leads.
Mouser has it as the FTR-F3HA005A version which you mightbe able to connect with
4 adequately gauged extender leads with formed eyelets.
Or else you are going to have to hunt up that exact rarer version.
Trying to fit in a conventional vertical mount will find the black line inductor being physically
blocking the mount space.

RELAY Da-Da Sheet

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Fujitsu/FTR-F3AA005E-HA/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtSzCF3XBhmW5A39Hbc5HH4KHPdRgDYQyY=



For your units special / odd PA config . . . . vice the conventional HA

http://52ebad10ee97eea25d5e-d7d4081...4.cf3.rackcdn.com/UK_FUI_FTR-F3-Series_DS.pdf

I'll just bet that you will find that Samsung Tee Wee having a model number identifier also . . . .so that we can look it up.


73s de Edd
 

rutwad

Mar 9, 2017
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Someone asked me if I had taken the component apart. They said some come apart. Well that's where the damage come from. I had to heat it and cut apart with a utility knife.

And I have found a similar part, but as mentioned it did bit have 4 connections in a row with right angles but instead had a connection at each corner.
 
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alfa88

Dec 1, 2010
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Plan A: Reinstall undamaged relay. Examine board for puffed out electrolytic capacitors and replace. Cross fingers.
Plan B: Try Ebay. Look for the board #.
 

alfa88

Dec 1, 2010
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Yea, I saw that after my post. If Mr. Nutwad is ambitious enough then get a new relay for Plan A. I forgot to mention Plan C which involves going to a retail store for a new TV.
 

davenn

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Plan C which involves going to a retail store for a new TV.


I like Plan C ..... best option these days ... the old CRT TV's are just crap to deal with .... I serviced them for some 20+ years
 

rutwad

Mar 9, 2017
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Samsung UN55B8500 was one of the best when I bought it. Just crapped out on me
 

73's de Edd

Aug 21, 2015
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Sir rutwad . . . . . . . .

Right-o . . .just caught that in the above post and started researching its circuitry.
I can see your concern . . .with THAT unit DEFINITELY not categorized nor acquired . . . . . as a
$199 Wally Werld closeout.
First consideration, would be to examine the potentially remaining electrical attributes of that
relay that you pulled.

That is UNLESS your dissection knife got into its carotid artery, take an ohmmeter and see if you can still read the presence of the ~120 ohms of a STILL intact coil winding. That will be the finer set of terminal wires .
The larger ones are being for the power relay contacts.
Per chance . . . pray . . . . that the winding will be intact, in which case you can get a set of test / jumper wires with clips and connect a 9V battery to its end terminals and initially connect one wire to the prior confirmed coil connection and then take the other clip lead and draw it past the other relay connection . . . . NO LONGER . . . duration, than if you were striking a match.
A working relay should chatter . . . . in response.
THEN you connect the ohmmeter across the larger set of contacts and rectivate again . . .just long enough to catch a contacts closure confirmation on the ohmmeter.

Standing by for that testings results .



73's de Edd
 

rutwad

Mar 9, 2017
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20170311_172026.jpg My initial plan was to replace the relay. If problem continued, then I was going to dig deeper into research. Unfortunately someone mentioned to me that the relay could be taken apart and I went about doing it before realizing the part was no longer available. Some of the spooling was damaged.
 

73's de Edd

Aug 21, 2015
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I could have only done a better job . . . .if I put it on the train tracks.
Query:
Was the set acting a bit odd previously, like havig to be switched on and off several time before " catching " on.
Or did it ever just go off while watching ?

Edd
 

rutwad

Mar 9, 2017
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I could have only done a better job . . . .if I put it on the train tracks.
Query:
Was the set acting a bit odd previously, like havig to be switched on and off several time before " catching " on.
Or did it ever just go off while watching ?

Edd
Started a long time ago. TV would not power on with initial try, but usually after second attempt. Later when attempting to power it on, it would cycle on-off (just click, not actually ever coming on) several times itself and sometimes come on after a few cycles. It may have turned itself off while watching TV a couple times, but they were both shortly after powering on, or I say before warming up. If it made it through the first few minutes, then it generally stayed on.

I found I could bump the base of the TV when trying to cycle on and that usually worked.

Maybe related or not, sometimes the TV would change to a different input by itself while I was watching TV.

I could always power the TV off except on one occasion recently where it would not respond and stayed on.
 

73's de Edd

Aug 21, 2015
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Sir rutwad. . . . . . . .

Looks like the only chance on that relay is to use its identical mate with its more common terminals and use two appropiately
gauged wire sets to form eyelets on one end and extend the other leads ends to reach through the old PCB holes.

This original Fujitsu unit is only a bit over a buck and they have no minimum order restraints.

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Fujitsu/FTR-F3AA005E/?qs=8vAINcW1bWncvCdStekSEw==

Once that relay is flipped on it side and installed, only then will any REAL fault troubleshooting then being possible again.



73s de Edd
 
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rutwad

Mar 9, 2017
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Sir rutwad. . . . . . . .

Looks like the only chance on that relay is to use its identical mate with its more common terminals and use two appropiately
gauged wire sets to form eyelets on one end and extend the other leads ends to reach through the old PCB holes.

This original Fujitsu unit is only a bit over a buck and they have no minimum order restraints.

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Fujitsu/FTR-F3AA005E/?qs=8vAINcW1bWncvCdStekSEw==

Once that relay is flipped on it side and installed, only then will any REAL fault troubleshooting then being possible again.



73s de Edd

Great! I'll order 1 and update. Thanks!
 

rutwad

Mar 9, 2017
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So here's my new part. It says 3A and original had 5A. Wrong part?
 

rutwad

Mar 9, 2017
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So here's my new part. It says 3A and original had 5A. Wrong part?
 

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davenn

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Sep 5, 2009
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So here's my new part. It says 3A and original had 5A. Wrong part?

without knowing what voltage and current has to go through the relay contacts, it's hard to say

If Edd has found a schematic for the TV, then those values may be determined
 
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