Maker Pro
Maker Pro

Samsung 27" TV doesn't work.

G

George Jetson

Jan 1, 1970
0
Someone gave me a Samsung 27" TV, Model TXL2791F. When I tried to turn
it on it did nothing. No indication of power at all. I opened it up and
checked the fuses. All good.

I got a copy of the schematics, and did a little circuit tracing.
There's a component called a flyback transformer, which is connected to
a component called a high voltage tripler, which is connected to the CRT
high voltage anode. There's a picture of it at
http://www.wehaveparts.com/index.cgi?product=&pid=1553&cart_id=
1146478751 . The picture says it's a flyback transformer, but according
to the schematic it's the tripler. The schematic just shows a box. No
internal wiring.

The thick wire shown in the picture goes to the CRT anode, the thin wire
goes to a ground, and the hole is for a thick wire from the flyback.

When I pull the ground off, I can turn the TV on with the switch as well
as the remote. After removing the ground, when I plug it in I hear the
slight crackling/humming sound that means the set is powering up, and a
red LED comes on that means the set is powered up but off. When I press
the ON switch or the remote, the LED turns green, and I get a tone that
means I need to set up the time, channels, etc. I get no picture, of
course, because there's no voltage to the CRT, but everything else seems
to indicate that the TV is starting to power up normally. When the
ground wire is connected, presing the switch or the remote gets no
reaction at all.

No, my question. Would this indicate a problem with the tripler? Or the
flyback? What's a good way to test? I am familiar with radio and
computer repair, but I've never worked with televisions, and I don't
have any high voltage test equipment. Thanks for the help.

Oh, and I'm aware that the voltages in a TV can kill me, so I take
proper safety precautions, so no need to remind me. Thanks for the
thought, though.
 
D

David Naylor

Jan 1, 1970
0
George said:
Someone gave me a Samsung 27" TV, Model TXL2791F. When I tried to turn
it on it did nothing. No indication of power at all. I opened it up and
checked the fuses. All good.

I got a copy of the schematics, and did a little circuit tracing.
There's a component called a flyback transformer, which is connected to
a component called a high voltage tripler, which is connected to the CRT
high voltage anode. There's a picture of it at
http://www.wehaveparts.com/index.cgi?product=&pid=1553&cart_id=
1146478751 . The picture says it's a flyback transformer, but according
to the schematic it's the tripler. The schematic just shows a box. No
internal wiring.

The thick wire shown in the picture goes to the CRT anode, the thin wire
goes to a ground, and the hole is for a thick wire from the flyback.

When I pull the ground off, I can turn the TV on with the switch as well
as the remote. After removing the ground, when I plug it in I hear the
slight crackling/humming sound that means the set is powering up, and a
red LED comes on that means the set is powered up but off. When I press
the ON switch or the remote, the LED turns green, and I get a tone that
means I need to set up the time, channels, etc. I get no picture, of
course, because there's no voltage to the CRT, but everything else seems
to indicate that the TV is starting to power up normally. When the
ground wire is connected, presing the switch or the remote gets no
reaction at all.

No, my question. Would this indicate a problem with the tripler? Or the
flyback? What's a good way to test? I am familiar with radio and
computer repair, but I've never worked with televisions, and I don't
have any high voltage test equipment. Thanks for the help.

Oh, and I'm aware that the voltages in a TV can kill me, so I take
proper safety precautions, so no need to remind me. Thanks for the
thought, though.
in the model your speaking of there is only a FLYBACK transformer, the
tripler is built in the problem your having is the flyback
replace it and you should be good to go VERY VERY comon problem on sam dung
 
G

George Jetson

Jan 1, 1970
0
C

Charlie Morgan

Jan 1, 1970
0
It appears to be two distinct components. This is the flyback:
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c95/greree/flyback.jpg

This is the tripler:
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c95/greree/tripler.jpg

How do I test it to see which it is? Thanks.

For starters, you can try simply resoldering the connections to the flyback.
These pins come out of the bottom of the flyback, and extend trough the opposite
side of the circuit board. This is a heavy component and the development of ring
cracks are very common. The cracks can even be difficult to see with a
magnifying lens.

CWM
 
Someone gave me a Samsung 27" TV, Model TXL2791F. When I tried to turn
it on it did nothing. No indication of power at all. I opened it up and
checked the fuses. All good.
Unless this is just a hobby for you TVs are usually like Bic lighters.
When they go bad you toss them.
If you just start "easter egging" parts in there you could have more
than the TV is worth and still not fix it. Sometimes is is just one
thing but if this thing was hit by a power surge you could have smoked
several thiings
 
G

George Jetson

Jan 1, 1970
0
Unless this is just a hobby for you TVs are usually like Bic lighters.
When they go bad you toss them.
If you just start "easter egging" parts in there you could have more
than the TV is worth and still not fix it. Sometimes is is just one
thing but if this thing was hit by a power surge you could have smoked
several thiings
This one cost $700 new, and is better than the one I have now. If I can fix
it for $50 or $60 it'll be worth it. If I can't I'll toss it.
 
J

James Sweet

Jan 1, 1970
0
George said:
This one cost $700 new, and is better than the one I have now. If I can fix
it for $50 or $60 it'll be worth it. If I can't I'll toss it.


If you know what you're doing it shouldn't be hard to fix, otherwise
take it to a shop or at least find a friend who's experienced in working
on TVs or you'll more likely make it unrepairable.

Do you have a multimeter, soldering tools, and a basic understanding of
how a television set works?
 
G

George Jetson

Jan 1, 1970
0
Do you have a multimeter, soldering tools, and a basic understanding
of how a television set works?

Yes to all, plus I have a set of schematics for the TV.
 
A

anonymous

Jan 1, 1970
0
You may want to check for open 1 ohm or so resistors on the secondary
side of the fbt, sweep derived supply, whatever you want to call it.
 
A

AZ Nomad

Jan 1, 1970
0
[email protected] wrote in
This one cost $700 new, and is better than the one I have now. If I can fix
it for $50 or $60 it'll be worth it. If I can't I'll toss it.

You paid *way* too much or are quoting the price of 15 years ago. $450 will buy
you a well made 32" set; your tv can be replaced for under $300.
 
G

George Jetson

Jan 1, 1970
0
You paid *way* too much or are quoting the price of 15 years ago.

Neither. This TV came out in 2001 with a MSRP of $699. I got it for free.
$450 will buy you a well made 32" set; your tv can be replaced for
under $300.

Why would I want to pay $300 to $450 for a new TV, if I can fix this one
for $50 or $60?
 
You paid *way* too much or are quoting the price of 15 years ago. $450 will buy
you a well made 32" set; your tv can be replaced for under $300.


That was my thought and if this is not digital capable it is a time
bomb anyway. I know I have seen guys throw part after part at a TV
that was "surged" and still end up with an old TV. These things are
wired in a big loop on the primary that includes lots of $20-70 parts
and a lightning hit will take out most of them. If it also got into
the tuner side, getting it to light up is only the start of your
misery.

It is no accident that there isn't a TV repair shop in every strip
mall these days.
 
C

Charlie Bress

Jan 1, 1970
0
George Jetson said:
Neither. This TV came out in 2001 with a MSRP of $699. I got it for free.


Why would I want to pay $300 to $450 for a new TV, if I can fix this one
for $50 or $60?

I haven't tried to buy a flyback for a long time. I suspect you will have
problem finding the right one and at a reasonable price.

Charlie
 
G

George Jetson

Jan 1, 1970
0
[email protected] wrote in
That was my thought and if this is not digital capable it is a time
bomb anyway. I know I have seen guys throw part after part at a TV
that was "surged" and still end up with an old TV. These things are
wired in a big loop on the primary that includes lots of $20-70 parts
and a lightning hit will take out most of them. If it also got into
the tuner side, getting it to light up is only the start of your
misery.

It is no accident that there isn't a TV repair shop in every strip
mall these days.

It is digital capable. It's a pretty decent TV. I doubt that there's
heavy damage, since the woman I got it from didn't say anything about
lightning, and all the fuses and fusible links are good. I also took the
high voltage tripler out of circuit and the rest of the TV seemed to
power up ok.

Like I said before, I'm not going to put a lot of money into this.
That's why I'm asking for troubleshooting help.
 
R

Rick Brandt

Jan 1, 1970
0
George said:
Neither. This TV came out in 2001 with a MSRP of $699. I got it for
free.


Why would I want to pay $300 to $450 for a new TV, if I can fix this
one for $50 or $60?

Because it's a gamble. You can spend 50 to 60 bucks in an "attempt" to fix it.
If your time and effort is worth anything at all considerably more than that.
And when the new fly-back is in place there is a very good chance that the set
will be just as dead as it is now.
 
G

George Jetson

Jan 1, 1970
0
Charlie Bress said:
I haven't tried to buy a flyback for a long time. I suspect you will
have problem finding the right one and at a reasonable price.

Charlie

It doesn't appear to be the flyback. It's actually the tripler, and I found
one for $38 online. If it does end up being the flyback, I'm sure I can get
one from the same place.
 
G

George Jetson

Jan 1, 1970
0
Rick Brandt said:
Because it's a gamble. You can spend 50 to 60 bucks in an "attempt"
to fix it. If your time and effort is worth anything at all
considerably more than that. And when the new fly-back is in place
there is a very good chance that the set will be just as dead as it is
now.
That's why I'm asking for advice on troubleshooting. Besides, if I wasn't
trying to fix the TV, I'd probably be WATCHING TV, or playing on the
internet, so so my time and effort isn't worth all that much.
 
R

Rick Brandt

Jan 1, 1970
0
George said:
That's why I'm asking for advice on troubleshooting. Besides, if I
wasn't trying to fix the TV, I'd probably be WATCHING TV, or playing
on the internet, so so my time and effort isn't worth all that much.

Just be mindful that when working on a set (even one completely disconnected
from power) that there is more than one place you can touch that will light you
up pretty good. The old rule being "one hand in a pocket". A 27 inch will have
about 30,000 volts stored in the tube and some of the larger capacitors can get
your attention as well.
 
K

Ken Weitzel

Jan 1, 1970
0
Rick said:
Just be mindful that when working on a set (even one completely disconnected
from power) that there is more than one place you can touch that will light you
up pretty good. The old rule being "one hand in a pocket". A 27 inch will have
about 30,000 volts stored in the tube and some of the larger capacitors can get
your attention as well.

Hi...

I think it specified the "left" hand in the pocket... :)

Take care, be safe, and happy holidays.

Ken
 
Top