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Thanks, Dave. The temp was just right. After, I tried the module and IT WORKS!!!! I cant believe it! I never did this before, and this happened because all the guys here helped out!! This is such a great forum. Thanks again, people! (The car lives on.....so few of these cars around have headlight doors that still work.)
Since I am so new at this I have no idea, other than they appeared to be intact/no splits, etc to my naked eye. You guys would know more. I guess they call it dry joints. Learned something.
narkeleptk
- Oct 3, 2019
- 74
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- Oct 3, 2019
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- 74
On an older vehicle where it presumably worked past the warranty period, probably more of a stress or heat induced crack rather than cold joint. I don't know when GM switched to lead free solder but at that point, the problem is bound to get worse... except, I don't know, maybe vehicles are exempt from ROHS lead free mandates? I do know that I'm using leaded solder whenever I work on one, and wire management is important, can't have harnesses flopping around with every vehicle vibration.
narkeleptk
- Oct 3, 2019
- 74
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- Oct 3, 2019
- Messages
- 74
They are all lead free for a long time now from what i see which is nice imo. I prefer to avoid lead when ever I can. I'm much to sloppy to have to worry about proper handling of it.
^ Exposure to it is minimal as long as you don't breathe the fumes, which you don't want to do with lead-free solder either due to the flux.
IMO, vehicles are exactly where leaded solder should be used, an application where failure can lead to deadly accidents.
IMO, vehicles are exactly where leaded solder should be used, an application where failure can lead to deadly accidents.
Wow, the old module lasted over a year after resoldering some joints with the guidance of the members here, but has failed again. I have pulled up my thread from last year, and was hoping some people here could take a look at the video in this post, and starting at 8:15 in video, "grounding lugs", he is resoldering them.
I looked at my module and one grounding lug is blackened, and smells burnt, surrounded by brownish discoloration. I hope that is all that is wrong, so I am going to re heat/solder this lug/pin thingy. My right headlight door works, but not my left. I dont know what the 2 lugs do (maybe one for each right/left door?). Anyway, comments always appreciated.
I was afraid of that, as I am so bad at posting pictures- but I will ask help from my son, he is good at that. Could be a day or so, but meanwhile, the picture will not show much different than the youtube video, at the 8:15 mark. Only difference will be some brownish discoloration, as I mentioned. Does the video not come up? I actually did not try it, I assumed it would record for yous.
roughshawd
- Jul 13, 2020
- 470
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- Jul 13, 2020
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- 470
Great vid, took a while to reach the repair but the car is nice...! re-itterate. Regular cheap electrical solder, usually works fine, but things like motor relays usually require a stronger and higher silver content solder that requires a bit hotter than normal iron. This stuff was built by a robot that has a tip that was designed to flow the heavier solder without overheating the board or melting the bonding agent between the plating and the PCB. It takes a robot about .6 of a second to put this together, do you think you can move that fast? Then turn up the heat, get a good drop on your tip and apply to the connector, and not to the board. the solder will flow to the board when the solder there melts... just a pointer in the right direction>>>>> low heat to board>>>>high heat to connecting lug.
pictures: The 1st 2 are just at different angles, showing the burnt spot on the ground lug. the last picture is the back side of that area, burnt spot around that same ground lug. Hope that helps. What does a ground lug do, and why does it smell burnt?
Attachments
So, this connector is the ground lug, right? Do you agree that the lug in my photos is bad/burnt? What could cause that, roughshaw? The old rusty door motor that would not turn correctly (which I have since restored)?
Was it a MT or an AT?
W
So in this instance the track is for heatsink purposes.
If burnt, it means crap mechanical connection between the transistor tab and the underneath track.
Drill out the rivet (carefully), scratch up the track surface at the back for good thermal conductivity, fit a screw and a nut preferably brass but whatever.
If you use basic steel screw and nut, be sure it doesn't foul anywhere when placed back in it's housing and best to coat with some circuit protection varnish after it is bolted up.
If the track is burnt beyond where a screw would make contact, solder in an addition piece of shim brass or copper.
Well, it does connect to the tab of the transistor which is usually the collector of the transistor, same as the centre pin of the 3 pins, (depending on type model etc) ..............BUT that track is not connected to anything else aside from the transistor tab.
So in this instance the track is for heatsink purposes.
If burnt, it means crap mechanical connection between the transistor tab and the underneath track.
Drill out the rivet (carefully), scratch up the track surface at the back for good thermal conductivity, fit a screw and a nut preferably brass but whatever.
If you use basic steel screw and nut, be sure it doesn't foul anywhere when placed back in it's housing and best to coat with some circuit protection varnish after it is bolted up.
If the track is burnt beyond where a screw would make contact, solder in an addition piece of shim brass or copper.
