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Need some help with my car alarm and boot solenoid.

Brick_Top

Jan 11, 2015
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Jan 11, 2015
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First post here so go easy, have no electronics background and need some help understanding what is happening with my car.

I have a Toad alarm and immobiliser fitted, which has an optional boot release circuit.

What's happened so far:

Fitted boot release solenoid to pull on boot release rod, wired perm live to correct side of motor, and earth to my alarm boot release circuit.

I have been told this has worked for other people, but am now seriously thinking it should have been done with a relay.

Now I get no signal at all on the boot release circuit of the alarm when pressing the correct button on the key fob, I believe the ECU is damaged on that circuit in some way (possibly because the current was too much for it to earth?

From what I've since read online, activating this circuit does the following:

Boot release output (on holding down button three on the radio key for three seconds, negative output of 500mA will be provided. If the alarm system is in an armed state the ultrasonic sensors and boot trigger circuit will also be disabled, and will not be re-enabled until 20 seconds after closing the boot on the vehicle)


There is another circuit (with a different button) I could use to do this to avoid getting another ECU, but I want to do it right and not ruin another circuit.


Here is the info from the manual, the circuit that isn't working is the Blue/Black wire - and the instructions below state using a relay.

The wire I have free is the white wire, this doesn't suggest using a relay but it works in the same way (-500ma signal)




Blue/Black Wire (boot release/optional output)
Output signal pulls low (to ground) - connect to the coil of the driver relay for the boot release solenoid. For
safety reasons this function can only be activated with the ignition off. Once activated, the boot and internal
volume sensors are disabled until 20 seconds after the boot is closed. Alternatively this wire can be
programmed for various outputs (press and hold button 3) see page 8-9

White Wire (variable timed output 1 second – 2.5 minutes)
Connect this wire to systems that need a signal that pulls low (to ground) for an interval automatically
controlled by the alarm. Once activated, the internal volume sensors are disabled until 10 seconds after the
timed period. (Press and hold button 4, or programme to operate on arming). Operates with the alarm
armed or disarmed and the ignition off.


So a couple of questions:

1) What has been damaged by not using a relay, and why? The boot release motor did work a couple of times before the circuit stopped working completely (the boot release motor still works).

2) What relay do I need to use moving forwards, I'm thinking it has to be one that switches the powered circuit on when it gets a negative 500ma signal from the alarm wire, but switches the powered circuit off when it loses this signal (the alarm gives a 1 second pulse if programmed this way).

3) Is it possible to fix the ECU? If I test the white wire, I get a 0.6 reading on my multimeter for continuity.

Thanks for your help.
 

(*steve*)

¡sǝpodᴉʇuɐ ǝɥʇ ɹɐǝɥd
Moderator
Jan 21, 2010
25,510
Joined
Jan 21, 2010
Messages
25,510
1 the device, if unable to supply the current to the solenoid could be damaged by excess current. The inductive kick generated by the solenoid could quite easily destroy the ecu.

2 the relay would be connected in a similar way to the solenoid (as it is connected now). The relay should draw less current than the solenoid (thus fixing the first problem above) but will still create an inductive spike.

3 maybe, but we'd need to confirm the problem and see pictures.
 

Brick_Top

Jan 11, 2015
3
Joined
Jan 11, 2015
Messages
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P1020981.JPG


best guess at part number

20LN2003AG

not sure on first two though.
 

(*steve*)

¡sǝpodᴉʇuɐ ǝɥʇ ɹɐǝɥd
Moderator
Jan 21, 2010
25,510
Joined
Jan 21, 2010
Messages
25,510
Very easy to replace those with a rework tool. Doing it with a soldering iron is more difficult, but still not that hard.

The parts from HK should be fine.

It definitely looks like over-current was the issue.

It is also possible that there are other problems.
 
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