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Miniature Burr?

Discussion in 'Electronic Repair' started by N Cook, May 30, 2007.

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  1. N Cook

    N Cook Guest

    Where there is a different footprint for a replacement item and you have to
    pierce the pcb, in slightly different positions to the original, to push
    pins through.
    At the moment I use a small drill bit in a dremmel and use the fluted part
    of the drill but its more melting by friction than cutting. I tried grinding
    notches around a sewing needle but that did not work. Any ideas ?
  2. James Sweet

    James Sweet Guest

    It depends on what sort of cut needs to be done. I've used a jewelers
    screwdriver at times to enlarge a hole, or small drill bits in a drill
    press. If the hole needs to be a bit larger, a hand drill will usually
  3. Ron(UK)

    Ron(UK) Guest

  4. I'm not quite sure what you mean - pretty well all components can have
    the leads bent. If the holes are too far out to allow this a new one
    would be required so drill it in the normal way - or just enlarge the
    existing one with a suitable size drill?

    'Normal' drills of this size have to be pretty soft for hand held use in
    a dremel etc so I have a rather nice but ancient small pillar drill
    bought off Ebay which uses collet tungsten types - expensive but very
    hard so ideal for drilling new PCBs. But far too brittle for handheld
  5. N Cook

    N Cook Guest

  6. N Cook

    N Cook Guest

    It seems its bur and not burr.
    In the case yeaterday ultra-miniature pcb mount toggle switch with thick
    pins, not bendable, to go on a populated board. Footprint of 6 pins on
    slightly larger , in terms of centre spacings than the original, so cannot ,
    without making a jig , drill new holes. The drill would drop into the
    original hole. So a matter of short radial slots out to the replacement
    positions. Enlarging the existing holes would require filling with glue or
    something for structural integrity , after soldering.
  7. Guest

  8. Warren Weber

    Warren Weber Guest

    I use dental burr's in my dremal. W W
  9. Mike Berger

    Mike Berger Guest

    Not to mention, it's rare to have enough real estate to safely
    chop up a board like that. And if it's multi-layer you're
    really asking for trouble.
  10. jakdedert

    jakdedert Guest

    I think he already answered your question; too short and thick to bend.
    I also have questions, but appreciate that I'm not there and have to
    depend on the description given. For instance, the solution given
    (short radial slots) seems the best answer, and I wonder why they would
    require filling; but if it is the best answer, then what is the question?

    FWIW, I'd probably use a Dremel cutoff wheel which had been 'turned
    down' to a nib from use. These constantly get smaller as they cut hard
    materials (like metal) until they are barely larger than the arbor onto
    which they are mounted. At that size, it might be possible to make the
    slots he describes.

  11. Smitty Two

    Smitty Two Guest

    Drill flutes aren't cutters. And a dremel's RPM is too high for most
    drilling. If you want a new hole, use a hand held pin vise to hold the
    miniature drill bit, and twist it by hand. Or, use an electric or air
    drill at a lower RPM than the dremel.

    To move a hole slightly by making it oval or oblong, get a small end
    mill instead of the drill bit. End mill flutes ARE designed for cutting.
  12. Jim Yanik

    Jim Yanik Guest

    you can make a variable speed controller by using a incandescent lamp
    dimmer and a dual outlet mounted in a junction box.I made one side of the
    dual outlet full 120VAC,and the other variable.It works fine for slowing a
    you could also use it to reduce power to an uncontrolled soldering iron.

    I buy carbide bits at Skycraft Surplus,they also side cut.
  13. Baron

    Baron Guest

    N Cook inscribed thus:
    Have you tried dental burrs. You can get them in .3mm with 3mm shank !
  14. You want an "end mill". If you get a solid carbide type it will snap
    off easily in such a small size. If you get a high-speed steel type it
    will dull quickly with the abrasive PCB material. The second option is
    the more attractive, but you might have trouble finding a small
    diameter HSS end mill with a 1/8" shank to fit a Dremel collet (most
    seem to be 3/16").

    Best regards,
    Spehro Pefhany

  15. Skycraft you say? Great Store. You must be in the Central Florida area as

    - Mike
  16. N Cook

    N Cook Guest

    Anyone familiar with tension files, for hacksaws/coping saws
    I'd never heard the term , I cannot find the diameter of this stuff on any
    Anyone know what the name is for that centride or carbide embedded cutting
    wire that I seem to remember can be found in camping/oudoor pursuit shops.?
    Just for the material, if the right sort of diameter would require any ends
    snipped off to pass through the pcb and two chucks or something for holding
    the ends


    Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
    prove it.
    Member of DAV #85.

    Michael A. Terrell
    Central Florida
  18. Warren Weber

    Warren Weber Guest

    My Dremal has variable speed and Dremal has many collet sizes. One that fits
    dental drill bits that cut through and on the sides. W W
  19. Jim Yanik

    Jim Yanik Guest

  20. The Harbor freight kit is a nice assortment for people to get started
    with, then you can buy replacements for whatever you break at places
    like Skycraft.

    I have a Harbor Freight 20 minutes away, but Skycraft is over two
    hours away, which is beyond my usual driving distance. At current gas
    prices, I could buy several kits at Harbor Freight, throw ay over half
    the burrs, and still come out ahead.

    Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
    prove it.
    Member of DAV #85.

    Michael A. Terrell
    Central Florida
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