How to test a coil ?

[newbee]

Hi all

I have this Kia Pride car and no HT current coming out of the coil,
hence the car is not starting. There are two wires coming into the
coil, one shows 12v current the other one is zero.

I do not know whether it is the coil or electronic contact breaker in
the distributor which is not working.

My question is how to test these two in isolation before buying either
or both units ?

Thanks for your thoughts.

 

[PeterD]

Hi all

I have this Kia Pride car and no HT current coming out of the coil,
hence the car is not starting. There are two wires coming into the
coil, one shows 12v current the other one is zero.

I do not know whether it is the coil or electronic contact breaker in
the distributor which is not working.

My question is how to test these two in isolation before buying either
or both units ?

Thanks for your thoughts.

The Kia Pride is not serviceable, and should be replaced if it fails.

 

[whit3rd]

I have this Kia Pride car and no HT current coming out of the coil,
hence the car is not starting.  There are two wires coming into the
coil, one shows 12v current the other one is zero.

I do not know whether it is the coil or electronic contact breaker in
the distributor which is not working.

My question is how to test these two

Three, actually: the coil, the sensor in the distributor, and the
amplifier/control unit.

Well, to test a coil, you can use a 4 ohm reistor and a switch.
Connect a spark plug to the coil HV terminal, grounding the
body of the spark plug, Ground one of the low-voltage
terminals, and connect the other terminal through the 4 ohm
resistor to the battery (+) for a second, then disconnect.
On disconnect, the plug should spark.

And, of course, all the wiring that interconnects these items
can benefit from connector-jiggling and inspection for
rodent toothmarks.

 

[David Nebenzahl]

A dwell function found on some DVMs will show if the coil is getting the
correct signal from the sensor. Connect between coil negative and ground.

But that requires that the car is running, doesn't it?


--
Made From Pears: Pretty good chance that the product is at least
mostly pears.
Made With Pears: Pretty good chance that pears will be detectable in
the product.
Contains Pears: One pear seed per multiple tons of product.

(with apologies to Dorothy L. Sayers)

 

[David Nebenzahl]

But that requires that the car is running, doesn't it?

No - it should read when cranking. Although an allowance will need to be
made from a running reading. Assuming you can find out what the dwell
should be. Somewhere around 30 degrees is a good starting point.[/QUOTE]

Ah, so.


--
Personally, I like Vista, but I probably won't use it. I like it
because it generates considerable business for me in consulting and
upgrades. As long as there is hardware and software out there that
doesn't work, I stay in business. Incidentally, my company motto is
"If this stuff worked, you wouldn't need me".

- lifted from sci.electronics.repair

 

[Jim Yanik]

check the Ground side of the coil's primary to see if it actually is
getting switched to ground.
If the "igniter"(Honda term) is not working,the coil never gets switched to
ground,so no current charges the coil,and no HT output;you would get a
steady 12V reading at the GND side coil terminal.

If there's a Kia newsgroup,perhaps try "alt.autos.kia" or
"rec.autos.kia",they would be a good place to ask questions and get some
useful specific help for your problem.

You'll want to include info like model,year,mileage in your query.
Some problems occur after "X" miles/years on a car,or under hot outside
temps,or cold temps,so mention any unusual conditions or odd behavior of
your vehicle.

Haha. So thats why the hood comes welded shut.

you guys were really helpful.
(not!)