How does an oil change reminder work?

[Lee Richardson]

I apologize to the group for the repeat messages. D*mn computer must have
had an orgasm.

 

[Dennis Smith]

Lee, You have posted the same thing twelve times.
They all show up as 10:35 PM Sat. here in AZ.
Any chance you think the posts aren't hitting cuz your clock is broken?
GW

His news server screwed up.

 

[Lee Richardson]

Yeah, I am not sure what happened. I apologize for the flood.

Sincerely,
Lee Richardson

 

[Clem]

If she does a lot of very short trip driving, you might do well to heed the
light and change the oil. The parameters it monitors to trigger the light
sound valid. You have to manually reset it, the method varies with make and
model.

That's what I don't get about the idea of sophisticated sensors detecting
when the oil needs changing. If it was that, wouldn't that same sensor be
better designed if it also turns off after it 'detects' that the oil is
better again?

I'd think it would be more along the lines of specific things the computer
already keeps track of. (Like the things previously mentioned... eng. temp,
speed, mileage, etc). Especially if you have to 'tell' the computer that you
changed the oil to get it to turn off the light.

 

[Lee Richardson]

It seems like it would be a trivial matter to put some kind of switch on the
drain plug or oil filter base that would trip when the plug or filter was
removed, and that signal could be used to reset the system.

 

[Lee Richardson]

Something was going on with my computer or IP, the problem seems to be
cleared up now.

Thanks,
Lee Richardson

 

[Spehro Pefhany]

It seems like it would be a trivial matter to put some kind of switch on the
drain plug or oil filter base that would trip when the plug or filter was
removed, and that signal could be used to reset the system.

But that adds complexity and wiring, the "sensorless" systems are
basically free (just a bit of firmware) except for the light itself.

Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany

 

[Lee Richardson]

True, but they don't seem to shy away from complexity and extra wiring in
many other potentially less important systems.

But that adds complexity and wiring, the "sensorless" systems are
basically free (just a bit of firmware) except for the light itself.

Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany

http://www.speff.com

 

[Bill Freeman]

Tend to disagree with your oil change mileages. Combustion is the
#1 progenitor of oil degradation (and I don't mean oxidation) and not
exposure to air per se. Heat resistance is part of the API & MilSpec tests
for oil validation (if you need a standards reference). The #2 cause is the
accumulation of combustion by-products washed during the lubrication process
that eventually degrades oil detergents and oil quality (i.e. the detergents
suspend dirt in solution). Hence the reason to change one's oil. Oils do
not "wear out" by oxidation and can be easily recycled >>
http://www.recycleoil.org/ &
http://api-ep.api.org/quality/index.cfm?bitmask=002001005000000000 .
Not bringing a car's engine up to temperature, dust, poor tune, poor
filters, dirty gasoline and oil pollution (e.g. broken coolant gasket) all
shorten oil life. In warranty, follow your "warranty recommendation" for
time and mileage. Out-of-warranty, synthetic oils can easily go 10,000
miles regardless of time. The advantages (most) synthetic oils have is that
they don't oxidize easily (are intrinsically stable), are HIGHLY
heat-resistant, retain their viscosity sheer range (i.e. they lubricate) and
leave few by-products (also known as "varnish"). They keep your engine
substantially cleaner. I agree with what you say about 5w-30 etc. on
synthetics. Try synthetics in any small 4-cycle engines you have .. .
you'll also see quite a difference from conventional oil.

Bill

 

[t smith]

It's not the oil that wears out, it's the supplement package. You need
to replace the oil to get new additives. I would say in normal commute
driving (short trips) the number one reason to change your oil is moisture,
since it builds up condensation and never really get's it all out before you
shut it off again. That's why your exhaust will rust off so soon.

T

Tend to disagree with your oil change mileages. Combustion is the
#1 progenitor of oil degradation (and I don't mean oxidation) and not
exposure to air per se. Heat resistance is part of the API & MilSpec tests
for oil validation (if you need a standards reference). The #2 cause is the
accumulation of combustion by-products washed during the lubrication process
that eventually degrades oil detergents and oil quality (i.e. the detergents
suspend dirt in solution). Hence the reason to change one's oil. Oils do
not "wear out" by oxidation and can be easily recycled >>
http://www.recycleoil.org/ &
http://api-ep.api.org/quality/index.cfm?bitmask=002001005000000000 .
Not bringing a car's engine up to temperature, dust, poor tune, poor
filters, dirty gasoline and oil pollution (e.g. broken coolant gasket) all
shorten oil life. In warranty, follow your "warranty recommendation" for
time and mileage. Out-of-warranty, synthetic oils can easily go 10,000
miles regardless of time. The advantages (most) synthetic oils have is that
they don't oxidize easily (are intrinsically stable), are HIGHLY
heat-resistant, retain their viscosity sheer range (i.e. they lubricate) and
leave few by-products (also known as "varnish"). They keep your engine
substantially cleaner. I agree with what you say about 5w-30 etc. on
synthetics. Try synthetics in any small 4-cycle engines you have .. .
you'll also see quite a difference from conventional oil.

Bill