OK, good photo. The ends of these small devices are plated (copper + tin?) so they take solder. Ceramic itself can't be soldered. From the ragged edges, it appears that the plating on the capacitor may have broken off and remained on the pads. I would not worry about the resistance reading between the two pads. One is probably to the ground plane. You should get a zero reading from that pad to similar pans on nearby capacitors or to the "via" right above the open pad.
First, I would clean the pads.
If you have "solder wick" that is great. If not, can you find some wire braid from a small piece of shielded cable? If you flatten the braid and add a little flux, it will work like solder braid. Put a little solder on the pad, then use the braid to remove it all. A damp (not saturated wet) paper towel can also be used to wipe away molten solder. If a piece of non-melted metal comes off with the clean up, then that probably pulled off the capacitor. (Copper may look salmon red.)
Once the pads are clean, you have a chance of soldering to them. Unfortunately, if the solder ends of the capacitor are torn off, I don't think the capacitor can be soldered. You might consider flipping the capacitor so the still good top side will take solder. I have not tried that and doubt that will give the proper electrical contact to the innards of the capacitor. Do you have any other capacitors in your box? If you have a leaded cap of 0.1 or 0.01 uF you might try carefully soldering the leads to the pad. Use the 0.1 uF, if you have both. Do you have any scrap boards with similar looking capacitors that you could take one from?
Does the PS3 work at all without the capacitor?
John