Help identifying components in old board

[newbie123]

hi all!
As a newbie I hope I'm posting in the right section and that my question makes sense in these forums.
I have been using this piece of equipment to control flashes in cameras. After using it for a few days it started smelling like if something was burning and it wouldn't power up anymore. It is pretty old, from the 60's at least, and finding another one is almost mission impossible so I would like to get it repaired.
I opened it and noticed two things.
1st: multiple of components are leaking. They have number 182 (or maybe L82?) printed on them. They have 3 legs/connections to the board. Based on what I have found they are transistors. Is this right? is there any way I can determine their values? is there any way I can find replacements for those?
2nd: two components burnt. they look like the part in the second picture. It looks like it has a marking like this on top: |<
what are they? can they be replaced?
Thank you very much for your help beforehand!

 

[Martaine2005]

Hi, the black component in the first picture IS a transistor. It’s a Toshiba 2SC367 (NPN).

I’ll wait for the more experienced members to comment on those white ‘182’ components.

Martin

 

[newbie123]

Thank you, Martin. I really appreciate it!

 

[73's de Edd]

Sir Newbie 1 2 3 . . . . .

Components look Japonie . . . .

Photie-graff 1 . . . . .
Looks like your "white" oreo cookie transistors have vanilla filling (beryllium oxide + siloxane binder) oozing out their common top ceramic to ceramic bottom seam line . Likely NO problem existing there.
That transistor casing, I usually associate with VERY high gigahertz RF rated transistors but the adjunct two inductively wound 50 ohm "load" /matching/terminating resistors would not be permissible to be tied into them. Plus its using cheeeeeeeeep phenolic circuit board vice fiberglass /nylon / Teflon, and no foil transmission / strip lines are to be seen. *****
The 2SC367 is an NPN and I would expect the "192" s to also be like NPN's.
Take DC metering and power up the unit, find ground of the power supply and test each leg of the 3 transistors and pass readings back to us.


***** PLUS . . . . . you done wints and 'toles us . . . . . that this board is photoflash oriented.

Photie-graff 2 . . . . .
The forerunner of the 1n4000 power diode is what we used to use and werecalled "bullet" diodes.
PLUS they had real SILVER leads . . . .that would totally BLACK oxidize with time and detrimental airborne oxidants.
You have 2 GOOD examples now layered upon both leads.
So no problem there . . .except cosmetically.

Sooooooo looks like you need to come up with more stuff . . . . or we will be needing close in, full board shots of the component and foil sides to fully see whats going on design wise.
PLUS . . .WHAT? is any brand or model number identification

Thaaasssit . . . . .

73's de Edd . . . . .

Ta Ta !
.

 

[newbie123]

thank you so so much for all the details, 73's de Edd. I really appreciate it. Just to clarify, two of those "bullet diodes" burnt completely. The picture I attached is one of the good ones. I will take more pictures as soon as I have a chance. Thank you so much again!

PS - I don't know the model number and there is no information online that I can find.

 

[73's de Edd]

Most "bullets" that I saw that failed, was being so severe, that it split the case . . .lengthwise.

 

[newbie123]

I just had some time to disassembly the whole thing enough to take a clearer picture of the failed component(s). One of those bullets diodes melted completely (the one with the red circle shows this, the one with the green arrow the same area after removing all the melted parts) and the one next to it might be damaged as well. If I were to replace those, what should I look for? how do I know their values? are they 1n4000 power diodes or were you referring to something else, 73's de Edd? Are there any other components that I should replace at the same time? Sorry for all the questions and Thank so much everyone for reading and sharing your expertise!

 

[newbie123]

Ok, I tried to be a bit more thorough and removed one of the good ones. SR1DM-1. maybe from mitsubishi based on the symbol? what would be a good modern replacement?

 

[bertus]

Hello,

That are likely 200 volts 1 ampere diodes.

Bertus

 

[newbie123]

Thank you so much for your reply, Bertus

 

[73's de Edd]

Sir newbie uno- dos- tres . . . . .
You say . . .
These is the diode I need to replace (https://maker.pro/forums/threads/help-identifying-components-in-old-board.300332/). It seems to read SR1DM-1. Somebody suggested they are 200v 1 amp. Do you think these will work or should I look for something else?: https://www.ebay.com/itm/234926622346
Thank you so much for your help!

ERROR . . .ERROR . . .ERROR . . . . sound off the KLAXXON alarm !

A SR1DM-1 is being a 600V 1 amp diode.
So today's equivalent replacement (exceeding) would be the use of a set of (4) 1N4007 diodes so that all will be matched up.
HEAVY emphasis with the final digit being a 7. VICE 1-6.
Then you tell us what the capacitance and voltage rating on the E-0cap just to the left is being .
With that diode TOTAL blown up, that degree of overload should have damaged series or end of circuit components. We can guesstimate after forthcoming photo evaluations.
Since, I need to see all of the board components in a photo shot plus all of its bottom side foils also.

PLUS you would ONLY want to eventually do a power up with AC power coming in thru a series incandescent lamp.

Engage yourself into some further internet research of . . . . . "dim bulb tester". It can be clip alligator lead "loose jury-rigged" to a table lamp or drop lights prong leads and easily torn down after its use.

Thaaaasssit . . . . .

73's de Edd . . . . .

.

 

[newbie123]

That is so helpful. I'm so glad that I asked you! Thank you so so much for taking the time to share your knowledge. The system has a fuse that died so I am hoping that saved other components. I will keep you updated on how thing go. Thank so so so much again!!!

 

[newbie123]

The component to the left seems to be a 25v 470uf capacitor, by the way.