Help Identifying a DC Power Jack for replacement

[Scottc12]

I have a broken DC Jack and have been trying to source a replacement and having trouble identifying. The AC/DC Power Supply is a BX-1200200 - DC out is 12v 2A. The Jack is Horizontal mount three pin. No Manufacture listed on it. Any help identifying and located a replacement greatly approached.

Thanks
Sc

 

[Harald Kapp]

You can get all kinds of DC power jacks from many vendors. Here's just one example. Apart from the form factor the most important factors are inside and outside contact diameter the measurement of which you can take from the old connector. Have a look at the datasheets offered to verify the dimensions of the replacement match your PCB.

 

[Scottc12]

Thanks so much Harald - Great help. I believe I have the correct one.

 

[73's de Edd]

Scottc12 . . . . .

I used to always have BIG problems in identifying the outer diameter of the barrel if being on a female jack, without having the mating plug to take its dimensions from.
OR
The somewhat easier center pin diameter, unless I compared it to a close size of my numbered drill set.
OR
After I paid 2 Bux for a set of 15 radio Shack adapter plugs . . . . at a flea market . . . then I could plug in and try, or get its data from the references posted below


https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coaxial_power_connector
or
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/EIAJ_connector

Then you could refer to ALL of these possibilities below, and see if one of the units might be your needed unit


Mouser has offerings of . . . . 30 pages
https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/209/KC-301048-1171736.pdf

Digi Key has offerings of . . . . 34 pages + their data sheets
https://www.digikey.com/products/en...nectors/435/page/33?k=Barrel power connectors


73's de Edd . . . . .


I bought a self-learning record to learn Spanish. I turned it on one night and went to sleep; the record got stuck. . . . . The result ? now I can only st-st-st-stutter in Spanish.

 

[Scottc12]

Great Info : Thank you.

 

[73's de Edd]

Sir Scottc12 . . . . .

I just now see that this info was left from the top post, as another part . . .

I was surprised by the way that outer connector case split, in just the way that it did. Thereby it was exposing the pic #1 view, that is showing the pressure contact that the inserted plugs outer barrel connector, presses down against (see the friction marks of repeated insertions ) and breaks switch contact with the upper switch leaf that is extending across the top, above it.
Since the central pin contact is still on the separate plastic shell and riveted to it . . . as per Photo #2 . . . . it must receive the inner hole of the barrel connector and make contact with it, afte the barrel connector plug is inserted.
PLUS, there must be only the very slightest clearance for that barrel connnectors plugs outer shell to just clear . . .without its touching . . . . the switch contact that is being located just just below it.

So all in all . . . . your connector needed . . . will be containing a pressure activated switch within it, that will be OPENING a power circuit when a plug is inserted within the connector.
OR being in its normally closed position and be closing a circuitry connection when no plug is inserted.

And then, the tricky situation of meeting the size requirements of the outer shell of the barrel connector along with the diameter of the central pin connection of the connector, along with the overall length of the plug that will be used within it.
I have seen both long and some times, shorty plugs.

73's de Edd . . . . .



The only difference between a rut and a grave is the depth.

 

[Scottc12]

Sir Scottc12 . . . . .

I just now see that this info was left from the top post, as another part . . .

I was surprised by the way that outer connector case split, in just the way that it did. Thereby it was exposing the pic #1 view, that is showing the pressure contact that the inserted plugs outer barrel connector, presses down against (see the friction marks of repeated insertions ) and breaks switch contact with the upper switch leaf that is extending across the top, above it.
Since the central pin contact is still on the separate plastic shell and riveted to it . . . as per Photo #2 . . . . it must receive the inner hole of the barrel connector and make contact with it, afte the barrel connector plug is inserted.
PLUS, there must be only the very slightest clearance for that barrel connnectors plugs outer shell to just clear . . .without its touching . . . . the switch contact that is being located just just below it.

So all in all . . . . your connector needed . . . will be containing a pressure activated switch within it, that will be OPENING a power circuit when a plug is inserted within the connector.
OR being in its normally closed position and be closing a circuitry connection when no plug is inserted.

And then, the tricky situation of meeting the size requirements of the outer shell of the barrel connector along with the diameter of the central pin connection of the connector, along with the overall length of the plug that will be used within it.
I have seen both long and some times, shorty plugs.

73's de Edd . . . . .



The only difference between a rut and a grave is the depth.

Thanks again for all this info. The case split totally my fault as I stepped not he power supply cable which broke the case and snapped the pins. I think I found a few options and the costs for the part I'm just going to place an order for a few.

 

[Scottc12]

Just want to thank everyone for help. Received my part and all is good. Thanks again!