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false alarms

Discussion in 'Security Alarms' started by Tim G., Nov 11, 2003.

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  1. Tim G.

    Tim G. Guest

    I have a perimeter zone that goes off once every 3-4 months for a
    brief moment. I have a dsc 832 panel. I have two windows hardwired
    to one zone. The first time it set the alarm off (as it was armed),
    so I know what zone went off.

    The second time the zone chimed, as I have the perimeter windows/doors
    set to chime. As the system was not armed, I didn't catch which
    contact it was.

    Does the DSC832 have a memory? Can I narrow two windows hooked up to
    one zone down to which window contact is the problem?

    Do I need each window on its own zone, ie a new panel, so I can be
    sure what window contact is the problem? Can I get better logging by
    hooking up the system to a home PC?
    Sarah Huang likes this.
  2. Frank Olson

    Frank Olson Guest

    The 832 has something better than a simple memory. It maintains a 128 event
    buffer. You can access this through one of three ways. You'll need an LCD
    keypad for one, a printer module (PC5400) for the second and the DLS
    software for the third. If you have an LCD keypad you can view the buffer
    by pressing [*],[6],[master code], the scroll through your options to "View
    Event Buffer", and press [*]. Information regarding this is available on
    page 35 of the 5010 installation manual (Section 5.16.1). Good luck!!
    Sarah Huang likes this.
  3. Jackcsg

    Jackcsg Guest

    Check your window contacts. Allot of times some dealers use "push button"
    type switches on windows. With the change of temperature/humidity, windows
    can expand and contract. You may just need an additional spacer on the
    switch itself. A good test is; lock the window and pull up on it. If you
    hear a chime, you may need an additional spacer. Check that first, there are
    some guys here who can send you a spacer, if you need it.

    Sarah Huang likes this.
  4. Bossman

    Bossman Guest

    Replace both switches and magnets on the two cost less
    than $5.00. In the panel, leave one of the problem windows on its own
    zone, and put the other on another zone. If replacing the switches and
    magnets don't correct the problem, you'll know which window it is the
    next time you have a problem.

  5. Tim G.

    Tim G. Guest

    Thanks...they are magnetic contacts. I don't have a spare zone left
    on the panel,so I suppose I need a panel add-on module of some sort.
    Which one should I get, and what's the price? Also, I have the LED
    not LCD display...can I review 128 incidents on that?
  6. Frank Olson

    Frank Olson Guest

    Here's something to try... Close and latch both the windows and make sure
    the zone is clear (keypad says "ready". Now try opening the windows one at
    a time (leave the latch engaged). Have someone standing by the keypad when
    you do this to tell you what zone trips (if one does while you're doing
    this). If nothing happens, unlatch the windows (one at a time) and slowly
    open them. If one "beeps" right away, then chances are the magnet's not
    aligned correctly with the contact switch. Try repositioning it. If you
    can't you might want to try replacing the magnets you're using with a couple
    of "rare earth" magnets.
    The eight zone module is the PC5108. It retails for under $70.00 in Canada.
    You can source the unit locally or on line. lists several on line
    Dealers that will be able to help you.
    Nope. You can only view the buffer with the three items I mentioned
  7. Bossman

    Bossman Guest

    I wouldn't modify the system. I would simply loop one of the windows
    in with a zone that has never caused problems, like for example, the
    front door. If the front door zone falses, you know it was that
    window. If the original zone falses, it was probably the remaining
    window, although there is a small chance there is actually a fault in
    the board.

    If you wired the system yourself, you should be able to remove one of
    the windows from the original zone and splice it into another zone in
    just a few minutes. Make sure you do replace the mags and the switches

    Sarah Huang likes this.
  8. Tim G. wrote
    You have been given several ideas, all good; however, I would meter the
    contacts at the panel before doing anything else. Depending on the distance
    from the panel, the resistance on each should be no more than 2 or 3 ohms.
    Almost every time I've had had a troublesome contact, it has exhibited
    unusual, inconsistent resistance readings. You should know the resistance of
    the circuits anyway before you disconnect or replace anything. This may
    give you insight into your problem later in case replacing/reconnecting
    doesn't work.
  9. thesatguy

    thesatguy Guest

    Put the meter across the zone and have somebody rap on each magnetic contact
    and see what happens.
    Actually, nothing should happen.
    If the meter reading jumps around there's a problem with the contacts.
  10. rabit

    rabit Guest

    what's a loom?

  11. Half of a henweigh.
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