false alarms

[Tim G.]

I have a perimeter zone that goes off once every 3-4 months for a
brief moment. I have a dsc 832 panel. I have two windows hardwired
to one zone. The first time it set the alarm off (as it was armed),
so I know what zone went off.

The second time the zone chimed, as I have the perimeter windows/doors
set to chime. As the system was not armed, I didn't catch which
contact it was.

Does the DSC832 have a memory? Can I narrow two windows hooked up to
one zone down to which window contact is the problem?

Do I need each window on its own zone, ie a new panel, so I can be
sure what window contact is the problem? Can I get better logging by
hooking up the system to a home PC?

 

[Frank Olson]

I have a perimeter zone that goes off once every 3-4 months for a
brief moment. I have a dsc 832 panel. I have two windows hardwired
to one zone. The first time it set the alarm off (as it was armed),
so I know what zone went off.

The second time the zone chimed, as I have the perimeter windows/doors
set to chime. As the system was not armed, I didn't catch which
contact it was.

Does the DSC832 have a memory? Can I narrow two windows hooked up to
one zone down to which window contact is the problem?

Do I need each window on its own zone, ie a new panel, so I can be
sure what window contact is the problem? Can I get better logging by
hooking up the system to a home PC?

The 832 has something better than a simple memory. It maintains a 128 event
buffer. You can access this through one of three ways. You'll need an LCD
keypad for one, a printer module (PC5400) for the second and the DLS
software for the third. If you have an LCD keypad you can view the buffer
by pressing [*],[6],[master code], the scroll through your options to "View
Event Buffer", and press [*]. Information regarding this is available on
page 35 of the 5010 installation manual (Section 5.16.1). Good luck!!

 

[Jackcsg]

Check your window contacts. Allot of times some dealers use "push button"
type switches on windows. With the change of temperature/humidity, windows
can expand and contract. You may just need an additional spacer on the
switch itself. A good test is; lock the window and pull up on it. If you
hear a chime, you may need an additional spacer. Check that first, there are
some guys here who can send you a spacer, if you need it.

Jack

 

[Bossman]

Does the DSC832 have a memory? Can I narrow two windows hooked up to
one zone down to which window contact is the problem?

Do I need each window on its own zone, ie a new panel, so I can be
sure what window contact is the problem? Can I get better logging by
hooking up the system to a home PC?

Replace both switches and magnets on the two windows...total cost less
than $5.00. In the panel, leave one of the problem windows on its own
zone, and put the other on another zone. If replacing the switches and
magnets don't correct the problem, you'll know which window it is the
next time you have a problem.

Bossman

 

[Tim G.]

Replace both switches and magnets on the two windows...total cost less
than $5.00. In the panel, leave one of the problem windows on its own
zone, and put the other on another zone. If replacing the switches and
magnets don't correct the problem, you'll know which window it is the
next time you have a problem.

Bossman

Thanks...they are magnetic contacts. I don't have a spare zone left
on the panel,so I suppose I need a panel add-on module of some sort.
Which one should I get, and what's the price? Also, I have the LED
not LCD display...can I review 128 incidents on that?

 

[Frank Olson]

Thanks...they are magnetic contacts. I don't have a spare zone left
on the panel,so I suppose I need a panel add-on module of some sort.

Here's something to try... Close and latch both the windows and make sure
the zone is clear (keypad says "ready". Now try opening the windows one at
a time (leave the latch engaged). Have someone standing by the keypad when
you do this to tell you what zone trips (if one does while you're doing
this). If nothing happens, unlatch the windows (one at a time) and slowly
open them. If one "beeps" right away, then chances are the magnet's not
aligned correctly with the contact switch. Try repositioning it. If you
can't you might want to try replacing the magnets you're using with a couple
of "rare earth" magnets.

Which one should I get, and what's the price?

The eight zone module is the PC5108. It retails for under $70.00 in Canada.
You can source the unit locally or on line.
http://www.yoursecuritysource.com/buyingonline.htm lists several on line
Dealers that will be able to help you.

Also, I have the LED
not LCD display...can I review 128 incidents on that?

Nope. You can only view the buffer with the three items I mentioned
earlier.

 

[Bossman]

Thanks...they are magnetic contacts. I don't have a spare zone left
on the panel,so I suppose I need a panel add-on module of some sort.
Which one should I get, and what's the price? Also, I have the LED
not LCD display...can I review 128 incidents on that?

I wouldn't modify the system. I would simply loop one of the windows
in with a zone that has never caused problems, like for example, the
front door. If the front door zone falses, you know it was that
window. If the original zone falses, it was probably the remaining
window, although there is a small chance there is actually a fault in
the board.

If you wired the system yourself, you should be able to remove one of
the windows from the original zone and splice it into another zone in
just a few minutes. Make sure you do replace the mags and the switches
first.

Bossman

 

[fly in the ointment]

Tim G. wrote

I have a perimeter zone that goes off once every 3-4 months for a
brief moment. I have a dsc 832 panel. I have two windows hardwired
to one zone. The first time it set the alarm off (as it was armed),
so I know what zone went off.

The second time the zone chimed, as I have the perimeter windows/doors
set to chime. As the system was not armed, I didn't catch which
contact it was.

Does the DSC832 have a memory? Can I narrow two windows hooked up to
one zone down to which window contact is the problem?

Do I need each window on its own zone, ie a new panel, so I can be
sure what window contact is the problem? Can I get better logging by
hooking up the system to a home PC?

You have been given several ideas, all good; however, I would meter the
contacts at the panel before doing anything else. Depending on the distance
from the panel, the resistance on each should be no more than 2 or 3 ohms.
Almost every time I've had had a troublesome contact, it has exhibited
unusual, inconsistent resistance readings. You should know the resistance of
the circuits anyway before you disconnect or replace anything. This may
give you insight into your problem later in case replacing/reconnecting
doesn't work.
js

 

[thesatguy]

Put the meter across the zone and have somebody rap on each magnetic contact
and see what happens.
Actually, nothing should happen.
If the meter reading jumps around there's a problem with the contacts.

 

[rabit]

what's a loom?

And While you are at it do the same thing with the wires to the zone. Every
now and then you get a situation where a conductor is broken under the
insulation. The house heats up - things expand - the wire stretches a bit
and alarm. By the next morning things ave cooled off and it meters oK.
Especialy can be a problem in attics wher someone might have crawled across
or steppe on a cable. Also loom or staple nicks and other damage.

 

[fly in the ointment]

Half of a henweigh.
js