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Da sander blowing fuses ?

73's de Edd

Aug 21, 2015
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Sir Ajpepe72 . . . . .



If your motor test works when you are bypassing the toroid . . .and I certainly think that it will .
This would be the rewind procedure for that toroid.
Initially you are guesstimating the length of wire required for each half circle to be wound.
Measure the total circumference of 1 turn around the core multiplied by the number of turns that can rest side by side across half of the inside of the core . .plus a little surplus.

Consulting the supplied pictorial, now note that the chipped out coating area has been moved down to the very bottom position in line with that yellow/red center line marking reference.
That thereby leaves it being in a dead area, where no winding will be placed.

Starting up . . . .

Leave enough wire length for an initial pigtail up at the top right corners reference point B.
Place the top end of the of the winding wire length up on the top of the core and see that the wire is firmly pressed to the core and gripped very firmly with the left thumb and the right hand feeds the whoooooole wire down through the core and comes aroooooooound then up and over and ends up at the marked B position shown.
You then continue feeeeeeeeeeding that one wire piece in and out and making side by side turns on the inside of the core (While the outer wire turns will splay apart a bit and have some spacing between them).
This continues until you have filled the core half full and are then ending up at B prime end.
Then you can establish that pigtail length and cut the wire to that length.

You then get out the second like wirelength and look at the A marked routing and precisely duplicate that
winding direction to end up at position A prime to then do the final cutting of that pigtail.

Then its wire end scraping and solder tinning and re covering the whole donut with insulation and wiring to your 4 connection points.

With this procedure, all of the electronic EMI noise filtering characteristics will be fully met, PLUS now will have to have a failure of one windings wires insulation, an adjunct failure of the cores epoxy coating , a conduction of the core to the other winding half (and it is one piss poor conductor) then another break in the cores epoxy coating will have to line up with another break in the wires insulation.
ALL of those probabilities are encompassing one infinitesimal amount of MULTIPLE failure probabilities .

On the old toroid windings you found bifilar winding, wherein you encountered two wires running side by side that had only that thin amount of coated wire insulation between them. That THIN insulation was all that kept a 230VAC explosion between them.
In my CLOSE inspection of your initial winding I saw two positions where the bifilar pairs of two side by side wires passed OVER each other instead of them ALWAYS staying side by side.
Now you can visualize two wires side by side, would be able to take quite a bit of compression since a wide spread out area is being compressed.
Take two wires crossing and put pressure at that crossover junction . . . . not the same story . . .those rounded
wires could fracture their insulation at that tiny, concentrated pressure point.
Sooooo I counted two points on the topside/viewable area.
Considering the multiple layers that the original toroid winding used, that cross over pressure point would be magnified, if occurring down inside the layers, where winding tension above it would also be factored in.
That would be the more susceptible region . . . .PLUS that is where you found BLACKNESS.
Now . . . . .

HOWTODOITTOIT :

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73's de Edd


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Ajpepe72

Oct 31, 2016
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Fantastic description and great illustration, thank you very much.
What is the easiest way to determine the gauge of the old winding so I can purchase the same diameter.
 

duke37

Jan 9, 2011
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Fantastic description and great illustration, thank you very much.
What is the easiest way to determine the gauge of the old winding so I can purchase the same diameter.
Use a vernier gauge or a micrometer.
If you do not have either, wind ten turns close wound on a rod, measure the length of the coil and divide by ten.
Remember that the overall wire diameter will be larger than the copper due to the insulation.
Too thin a wire will get hot if you drive hard.

Wind on in the same way that the turns came off. The object is to get some inductance, the number of turns is not critical.
 

Ajpepe72

Oct 31, 2016
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That's another error I've made then ! Didn't take note of direction it was wound on.
Would following the half and half method as illustrated above be better as I assume I can just follow the wiring direction as shown in edds fantastic diagram.
I have tested the sander wired direct to the switch terminals and it runs fine. I have also had my digital caliper on the wire and it is showing as 1mm.
 
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duke37

Jan 9, 2011
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If it was bifilar wound, two wires side by side, then the winding direction does not matter, just keep them in the same direction beginning to end.
Starting in the middle as edd says makes it much easier. It is easy to get in a mess particularly with thickish wire which will not go where you tell it. Neatness will give greater reliability.

You will need to remove the insulation at the ends which can be difficult. Thin wires often have insulation which can act as a flux on soldering. Wires as thick as this may need emery paper or burning off with a candle.

Excellent news that you have no other fault.
 

Ajpepe72

Oct 31, 2016
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I think it will be easier for me to rewind it as per edd's diagram if that's a viable alternative ?
 
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