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best way to clean copper?

How should I clean the surface of pcb that has sat around for a long
time and doesn't take solder well (ideally, using materials I can go in
a local store and buy over the counter).
 
D

Dave Plowman (News)

Jan 1, 1970
0
How should I clean the surface of pcb that has sat around for a long
time and doesn't take solder well (ideally, using materials I can go in
a local store and buy over the counter).

My favourite is a fibreglass 'pencil'.
 
J

Jim Yanik

Jan 1, 1970
0
[email protected] wrote in
How should I clean the surface of pcb that has sat around for a long
time and doesn't take solder well (ideally, using materials I can go in
a local store and buy over the counter).

Tarn-X,available at (US)supermarkets,drug stores,Wal-Mart and lots of other
places.Inexpensive.

Wipe on,rinse off,dry.
 
Q

quietguy

Jan 1, 1970
0
A vague memory that Coca Cola does the job

David
 
A

Alan the Tech

Jan 1, 1970
0
You also can use Brasso. I use it on hi current contacts on the job.
 
J

Jim Yanik

Jan 1, 1970
0
NSM said:
I like a diamond nail file for those.

N

you probably remove a lot more material with the file than with a
chemical(polish) like Brasso or Tarn-X.
Tarn-X is even easier to use than Brasso.
 
N

NSM

Jan 1, 1970
0
you probably remove a lot more material with the file than with a
chemical(polish) like Brasso or Tarn-X.
Tarn-X is even easier to use than Brasso.

That's what I need. Sometimes silver points grow peaks and craters. A
diamond file in the hands of the skilled (me) works well.

N
 
A

Alan the Tech

Jan 1, 1970
0
A diamond file may be ok for what you do, but when I say hi current
I'm talking 12 to 16 power modules with 2200 amps coming from each
into a common buss line. with a combined current of 26400 to 35200
amps. Start taking material off the contacts and your talking some
real fireworks if you don't weld everything together. And at that
current levels a few mills of oxidation acts like a power resistor and
it gets real hot. I had a 3 inch X 5 inch X 1/2 inch thick contact
plate with just a little corrosion get hot enough to burn my hand. (I
got first degree burns that time) That was before I started to polish
the contacts.
 
N

NSM

Jan 1, 1970
0
A diamond file may be ok for what you do, but when I say hi current
I'm talking 12 to 16 power modules with 2200 amps coming from each
into a common buss line. with a combined current of 26400 to 35200
amps. Start taking material off the contacts and your talking some
real fireworks if you don't weld everything together. And at that
current levels a few mills of oxidation acts like a power resistor and
it gets real hot. I had a 3 inch X 5 inch X 1/2 inch thick contact
plate with just a little corrosion get hot enough to burn my hand. (I
got first degree burns that time) That was before I started to polish
the contacts.

No argument there. I'm cleaning relay contacts - max 5 amps usually and
maybe a lot less. I installed a 400 amp 400 volt busbar system once and I
did that with a wrench and a heavy hand. Expensive stuff to have burn up on
you.

N
 
J

Jim Yanik

Jan 1, 1970
0
NSM said:
That's what I need. Sometimes silver points grow peaks and craters. A
diamond file in the hands of the skilled (me) works well.

N

Well,then you are not just cleaning tarnish,you are reshaping eroded
contacts,an entirely DIFFERENT task.
 
N

NSM

Jan 1, 1970
0
Well,then you are not just cleaning tarnish,you are reshaping eroded
contacts,an entirely DIFFERENT task.

I find it works for all cases.

N
 
J

Jim Yanik

Jan 1, 1970
0
NSM said:
I find it works for all cases.

N

IIRC,the OP wanted to clean off a PCB's tarnish.
I'd like to see you use your diamond file on a PCB for tarnish removal.

PS;the title of this thread is "BEST way to -clean- copper".
 
N

NSM

Jan 1, 1970
0
IIRC,the OP wanted to clean off a PCB's tarnish.
I'd like to see you use your diamond file on a PCB for tarnish removal.

But the topic drifted to "hi current contacts"

For PCBs I'd use an acid.

N
 
R

Ron(UK)

Jan 1, 1970
0
NSM said:
But the topic drifted to "hi current contacts"

For PCBs I'd use an acid.

N

Lemon juice works fine.

Ron (UK)
 
N

none

Jan 1, 1970
0
But the topic drifted to "hi current contacts"

For PCBs I'd use an acid.

N
They used to make something called "board washer" or something like
that. An aerosol spray that cleaned gunk and removed tarnish from
entire circuit boards. My old man had a can or two of it way back when
he had an electronics repair shop.
I seem to remember a similar spay cleaner during my Navy days in
avionics corrosion control, though it came in a unmarked green can
with just a mil spec number.
There are plenty of copper cleaners on the market that might give the
desired results with a little care and an acid brush or q-tip.
Never Dull might be the best bet. It's cotton balls that are doped
with a copper cleaning solvent. Can be gotten at any hardware or
marine supply shop. Should be safe for any of the components and
they're water free.
 
D

Dave Plowman (News)

Jan 1, 1970
0
There are plenty of copper cleaners on the market that might give the
desired results with a little care and an acid brush or q-tip.
Never Dull might be the best bet. It's cotton balls that are doped
with a copper cleaning solvent. Can be gotten at any hardware or
marine supply shop. Should be safe for any of the components and
they're water free.

Trouble is you can't guarantee they won't leave some form of coating on
the copper that isn't good for soldering. After all, they're not made for
this job.

I favour mechanical cleaning. Fine wire wool or like I said a fibreglass
pencil which is made for the job.
 
N

none

Jan 1, 1970
0
Trouble is you can't guarantee they won't leave some form of coating on
the copper that isn't good for soldering. After all, they're not made for
this job.

I favour mechanical cleaning. Fine wire wool or like I said a fibreglass
pencil which is made for the job.

Easy, you follow up the de-tarnishing of the surface copper with a
light washing with a decent contact cleaner. Say crc electro wash and
a bit of compressed air to blow it off?
 
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