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1 KVA 240 v transformer output 6v,8v,12 v AC how to test if it can supply 83 amps?

T

The Phantom

Jan 1, 1970
0
Are you sure? When designing a power transformer you get allot of variables
to play with to try to optimize the design. It has been my understanding
that often the most optimum design (for size/weight) makes the core losses
approximately equal to the copper losses while operated under full load.
It is quite true that the optimum design for a transformer under full load is to have
approximately equal core and copper losses. The operative phrase here is "under full
load". The transformers handling the output of Grand Coulee dam are probably operated
near full load a lot of the time, as are the transformers in major substations, and are
designed for nearly equal core and copper losses. But small transformers like the OP
described, and many others, are not usually designed that way.

Consider the so-called "pole pig" transformer; the ones you see on telephone poles. The
residential loads are rarely taking such a transformer to its full load capability for
extended periods of time. In fact, they spend most of their time lightly loaded, and
their core losses are a substantial quantity which the power companies try to minimize. I
remember when Metglas was first developed, there was talk of using it in the cores of pole
pigs because of its very low losses. There is enough total core loss in all the pole pigs
in a major utility district to make it worth while (maybe. They haven't done it yet).

There is a classic old text, "Magnetic Circuits and Transformers" by the staff of MIT,
published in 1943. It has many examples and descriptions of testing methods and modelling
of transformers. One example, on page 377, analyzes a 15 kva, 2400:240 volt, 60 Hz
distribution transformer. The copper loss at full load is 276 watts, the core loss is 84
watts, for an efficiency (at full load) of 97.09%. The book then goes on to describe how
to compute the "energy efficiency" (which is not "full load" efficiency), considering the
daily load curves. The core and copper loss can be apportioned for lowest cost of use and
ownership only by considering how the transformer is loaded. And if it isn't operated at
full load nearly all the time, the best apportionment is NOT to have equal core and copper
losses. At anything less than full load nearly all the time, you want to have lower core
loss.
 
T

The Phantom

Jan 1, 1970
0
I think, as I explained to Fritz Schlunder, that for small transformers like this, the
copper loss *is* what, to a great extent, determines the (power handling) "capability" of
the transformer.
---


---
NO!!! If you do you will exceed the current rating of the secondary
and, possibly, damage the transformer. The transformer is rated for
1kVA out of the _entire_ secondary which, at 12VRMS out comes to the
83.3 amps noted on the transformer's faceplate. That is, the
transformer secondary is wound with wire which is designed to carry
83.3 amps no matter which voltage tap is used.

I think you are quite right. I didn't read your first response to Rob where you
interpreted the label, which I also didn't bother to look at. :-( I was thinking that
the secondary had multiple windings which could be paralleled, which, after looking at the
label, I would agree that it doesn't. The 83 amps times 12 volts gives 996 VA, the rating
of the transformer. Mea Culpa. He should limit the primary current to 1.875 amps as I
mention later.
---


---
That's not really a valid criterion, since the core losses are only
going to be a fraction of what they would normally be with 240VAC on
the primary. Moreover, if you're going to do it properly you need to
monitor the temperature rise of the transformer over ambient and make
sure it doesn't exceed the spec.

I'm not sure what instrumentation Rob has access to; that's why I asked about meters.
If you're really going to do it right, monitoring the temperature rise of the
"transformer" over ambient isn't enough. You need to know the temperature of the
windings, and the rating of the insulation. Since the transformer doesn't appear to have
thermocouples buried in the windings, what is what I usually do with a new design, one
would have to use the method of measuring the resistance of the windings at room temp, and
then applying current for several hours, followed by a measurement of the winding
resistances when hot. From this the temperature rise of the windings can be inferred.
One starts out with less than rated current and makes a measurement, then if temperatures
are under allowable values, increase the current and take some more measurements.

Given a starting temp (room temp), designated Tcold, and measured resistance of a winding
at that temp, designated Rcold, and a measured resistance Rhot after allowing the
transformer to reach equilibrium with heating from the current in the windings; the temp,
Thot, is given by:

Rhot
Thot = ------ (234.5 + Tcold) - 234.5
Rcold

in degrees centigrade.

Since we don't know whether his transformer has Class C, Class H, or whatever, insulation,
we can't really tell what temperature rise is acceptable. One way to find out would be to
assume (there I go again) that the transformer was designed properly, and will exhibit a
temp rise at full load of just about the rating of the insulation system. Rob could short
the 12 volt winding, and apply rated current to the primary, wait a few hours and measure
the temperature rises of the windings. This would presumably be what the transformer was
designed for. He could then measure the temp rises with his rectifier load and see if
they are <= to what he got with the full load test I just described.

I'm sure you know all this, John, but I'm going into detail for Rob's benefit.

This is too much, as John points out. Don't do this.

Or limit the current to less than 83 amps in the shunt; this would be acceptable for the
6 volt tap. The shunt could also be used to short the rectifier output so that the actual
current there could be measured. To assess the heating in the 6 volt winding, a true RMS
meter would need to be used. The electrochemical effect of the current is proportional to
coulombs/sec, so an average responding meter would be appropriate to assess this.

Rob's original question was whether the transformer could supply 75 amps at 6 volts. It
would be reasonable to assume that the transformer can meet its nameplate rating. So if
he has access to a high current shunt, he can just put it in series with the 6 volt output
tap and, with a true RMS meter, verify that the current is less than 83 amps, and feel
safe without all this fooling around we've all been telling him to do! :)

I somehow doubt that Rob has any high current shunts around. Maybe he has access to some,
but I got the impression that he might be short on instrumentation.

So, what we all need to help him with is the measurement of the secondary current without
having to buy a high current shunt. One possibility is to make a current transformer
somehow. Or, how about this? Ten guage copper wire (here in the states, anyway) has very
close to .001 oms/ft. If he were to cut a 1.5-foot length of 10 guage wire, and solder on
a couple of smaller wires exactly 1 foot apart, he would have a shunt of 1 milliohm, and
with a current of 75 amps, he would need to measure 75 millivolts AC, and even the
cheapest Radio Shack DVM can do that. The problem is that the piece of wire would be
dissipating 5.6 watts and would get hot. The resistance would change enough to inspire a
vote of no confidence. He could parallel two such wires and have only 2.8 watts
dissipation, and finally, he could put the put the homemade shunt in a plastic tray of
water (at 20 degrees C), which would probably limit the temperature rise to an acceptable
value. (He can find out the resistance/foot of available wire of about this size and
figure out exactly how far apart to put the meter taps.) (And, he will need a true RMS
meter)
I'm aware of this, but as I explained in another reply to Fritz Schlunder, typically
small transformers like this aren't optimized for continuous operation at full load. It
could be, but I think it unlikely. Anyway, to do it right (measure the core loss) would
require a wattmeter designed for measurements under low power factor conditions.

But, he could get an idea of the relative magnitude of the core loss by measuring the room
temp resistances of the windings as mentioned earlier and then applying 240 volts to the
primary with the secondaries unloaded, waiting several hours, measuring the warm winding
resistances and using the formula given earlier.

And the distortion of the current waveform will make the the copper losses even more
significant compared to the core loss than with a pure resistive load.


As I explained to Fritz, this is only true for a transformer used nearly all the time at
full rated load.

In some special applications the disparity between core and copper loss is even greater
than the example I cited to Fritz. Inverters for off grid use are designed for very low
core loss because the customer wants to be able to leave the inverter running for extended
periods without a large drain on the battery. A transformer I designed for a 2400 watt
inverter had about 12 watts of core loss and 347 watts of copper loss (full load) on EI200
laminations, 2.75" stack height. I think inverter transformers represent the extreme of
this disparity.

A good example of a transformer where the core loss is prominent is the transformer in a
"wall wart". Those transformers are usually blazing hot even without a load. They use
cheap iron and run 'em hot. These transformers are very small, and the resistance of the
primary is so high that the volt-seconds seen by the core is greatly reduced by the IR
loss in the primary when the transformer is loaded. This reduction in core loss
compensates for the increase in copper loss due to load so that the transformer is within
ratings (barely, I think).
 
R

rob

Jan 1, 1970
0
Well thanks for all the help and advice..I have took Johns advice and
this morning the post man delivered a Claude Lyons Regavolt 715-E 240V
15Amp Variac...
http://www.saspyro.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/Variac.jpg

http://www.saspyro.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/Variacrating.jpg


Will this variac work as a variable resistor? so that i can control
the current going in to my electrochemical cell?.. or will it just
control the voltage?..

Phantom I have a Digital Multimeter a 2 amp panel meter and a 25 amp
panel meter that is all the measuring equipment i have .. i am looking
for a 0 -100 amp DC panel meter + shunt..I cant do much more until my
Diodes arrive..i will let you know how i progress ..



Thanks

Rob

Ps Im posting this Via Giganews Newserver ...Altho i do you use
Google groups to read this and other newsgroups..
 
J

John Fields

Jan 1, 1970
0
Well thanks for all the help and advice..I have took Johns advice and
this morning the post man delivered a Claude Lyons Regavolt 715-E 240V
15Amp Variac...
http://www.saspyro.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/Variac.jpg

http://www.saspyro.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/Variacrating.jpg


Will this variac work as a variable resistor? so that i can control
the current going in to my electrochemical cell?.. or will it just
control the voltage?..

---
Good move! It will do both. What will happen is that the variac will
control the voltage into the primary of the transformer, therefore
controlling the output voltage from the secondary, and as the voltage
into the cell changes, so will the current. The higher the voltage,
the higher the current.
---
 
L

Larry Brasfield

Jan 1, 1970
0
rob said:
Well thanks for all the help and advice..I have took Johns advice and
this morning the post man delivered a Claude Lyons Regavolt 715-E 240V
15Amp Variac...
http://www.saspyro.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/Variac.jpg

http://www.saspyro.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/Variacrating.jpg

You should be aware that this device very likely does not
have an isolated secondary. This means that your output
circuit will have an Ohmic connection to the power line.
Depending on the plug polarity and the correctness of
your outlet wiring, this can result in a personnel hazard.

You should take precautions to ensure that people are
not able to inadvertanly touch parts of your setup that
are connected to the secondary.
Will this variac work as a variable resistor? so that i can control
the current going in to my electrochemical cell?.. or will it just
control the voltage?..

The resistance in your circuit, both in the secondary
and what you intentionally introduce, together with
electrode/solution resistances, will set the current as
a function of the voltage you dial in with the variac.
 
T

The Phantom

Jan 1, 1970
0
You should be aware that this device very likely does not
have an isolated secondary.

If when you say "secondary", you are referring to the "secondary" of the variac, then of
course he should make sure that all connections from the "secondary" of the variac (which
is really an autotransformer) are safely insulated.
This means that your output
circuit

If by "output circuit", you mean that connection from the output of the variac to the 240
volt winding (primary) of his 1 kva transformer, then yes; but I got the impression that
his 1 kva transformer had a secondary without a galvanic connection to the primary. If
this is so, then touching parts of the setup which are connected to the 6 volt secondary
shouldn't be a problem.
will have an Ohmic connection to the power line.
Depending on the plug polarity and the correctness of
your outlet wiring, this can result in a personnel hazard.

You should take precautions to ensure that people are
not able to inadvertanly touch parts of your setup that
are connected to the secondary.

I got the impression that his 1 kva transformer had a secondary without a galvanic
connection to the primary. If this is so, then touching parts of the setup which are
connected to the 6 volt secondary shouldn't be a problem. If on the other hand, when you
say "secondary", you are referring to the "secondary" of the variac, then of course he
should make sure that all connections from the "secondary" of the variac (which is really
an autotransformer) are safely insulated.
 
R

Rob

Jan 1, 1970
0
Hi
well since last time i asked for advice i have had a few
problems...First problem was i had ordered some 400A 30V low Vf
Schottky diode rectifiers i won them on ebay
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=3877178672&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT
....But never got them through the post :( so that delayed me a week or
so..Then i Bought from a Surplus shop 8 x 110 amp Rectifiers..they
were only a about 3$ each ...used but untested..I got them from Cpi
surplus in the USA ..very fast service...Unfortunatley the diodes i
bought were Silicon controlled rectifiers...Which my Radio Ham friend
told me they are no use for what i wanted...So i was realy pissed
off!!...So i decided to spend even more money on another PSU rated at
5 Volts at 325 amps..I won it on ebay a week orso ago..
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7501227612&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT..

http://www.abex.co.uk/sales/electronic/psu/rack/p10/p_series.pdf

Its made by Power Ten INC.. its a 19 inch rack mounted PSU with
variable Voltage and Current control..First impressions were WOW!!
when i turned it on it sounded like a jet taking of lots of noise from
the internal fans...However my Smile was soon wiped of my face when i
tried to test the power output...

I connected it up to a short length of nicrome wire and set the
voltage to 5 Volts and slowly turned up the current .. all i could get
was 20 amps the wire glowed white hot ..Now i have done this test
before on my old 400watt computer PSU and it went off scale on my 25
amp analoge meter.. and melted the nicrome wire...

I then tried a very crude electrolyisis of my Lead Nitrate solution,
using my old 400 watt PSU i can get 15 amps thru it ..But with this
PSU i only managed a poxy 2 amps... i am now totaly pissed off!!!?

Have i wasted even more money?...How can i test my PSU?.. will it
damage the unit if i make a dead short on the connections.. and slowly
turn up the current ?...The control for the current works by setting a
limit on the power supply...I hope some one can put a smile back on my
face...

Dont forget i want to use the power supply for electrolysing Sodium
Chloride solution..I have read several patents and the cells run at
about 4.75 volts at several hundred amps....

So i assumed that a 5V supply should be able to do the job... I have
got several amp meters to read the current..

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...&item=4534893020&sspagename=STRK:MEWN:IT&rd=1

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7500828509&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT

But at the moment i have no power supply that can give me the current
i require..

Is the PSU faulty?...or is it something else i am overlooking?..

Hope some one can help ....

Cheers

Rob
 
J

John Fields

Jan 1, 1970
0
Hi
well since last time i asked for advice i have had a few
problems...First problem was i had ordered some 400A 30V low Vf
Schottky diode rectifiers i won them on ebay
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=3877178672&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT
...But never got them through the post :( so that delayed me a week or
so..Then i Bought from a Surplus shop 8 x 110 amp Rectifiers..they
were only a about 3$ each ...used but untested..I got them from Cpi
surplus in the USA ..very fast service...Unfortunatley the diodes i
bought were Silicon controlled rectifiers...Which my Radio Ham friend
told me they are no use for what i wanted...So i was realy pissed
off!!...So i decided to spend even more money on another PSU rated at
5 Volts at 325 amps..I won it on ebay a week orso ago..
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7501227612&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT..

http://www.abex.co.uk/sales/electronic/psu/rack/p10/p_series.pdf

Its made by Power Ten INC.. its a 19 inch rack mounted PSU with
variable Voltage and Current control..First impressions were WOW!!
when i turned it on it sounded like a jet taking of lots of noise from
the internal fans...However my Smile was soon wiped of my face when i
tried to test the power output...

I connected it up to a short length of nicrome wire and set the
voltage to 5 Volts and slowly turned up the current .. all i could get
was 20 amps the wire glowed white hot ..Now i have done this test
before on my old 400watt computer PSU and it went off scale on my 25
amp analoge meter.. and melted the nicrome wire...

I then tried a very crude electrolyisis of my Lead Nitrate solution,
using my old 400 watt PSU i can get 15 amps thru it ..But with this
PSU i only managed a poxy 2 amps... i am now totaly pissed off!!!?

Have i wasted even more money?...How can i test my PSU?.. will it
damage the unit if i make a dead short on the connections.. and slowly
turn up the current ?...The control for the current works by setting a
limit on the power supply...I hope some one can put a smile back on my
face...

Dont forget i want to use the power supply for electrolysing Sodium
Chloride solution..I have read several patents and the cells run at
about 4.75 volts at several hundred amps....

So i assumed that a 5V supply should be able to do the job... I have
got several amp meters to read the current..

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...&item=4534893020&sspagename=STRK:MEWN:IT&rd=1

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7500828509&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT

But at the moment i have no power supply that can give me the current
i require..

Is the PSU faulty?...or is it something else i am overlooking?..

Hope some one can help ....

---
Sorry to hear about all your problems.

Since nichrome has a fairly high resistance to start with, (about an
ohm per foot for #22 AWG) and a positive tempco, I suspect that what's
happening is that when the wire you're using gets white hot its
resistance is rising to about 0.25 ohms, since by Ohm's law:

E 5V
R = --- = ----- = 0.25 ohms
I 20A

If you want to know for sure, you can measure the resistance of the
piece of wire when it's at room temperature and then apply:


Rt = Ro ( 1 + (0.4E-3 (T - To)))


Where Rt is the hot resistance of the wire,
T is the hot temperature, and
To is the ambient temperature.

Conservatively estimating white heat to be 1000°C, and solving for Ro:


Rt 0.25
Ro = ----------------------- = ---------------------- ~ 0.18 R
1 + (0.4E-3 (T - To)) 1 + 0.4E-3 (1000-20)

So, if you were using #22 wire at 1 ohm per foot, the length of wire
you used to test the PSU would have been:

12" * .18R
l = ------------- = 2.16"
1R

Close?
 
B

Bob Eldred

Jan 1, 1970
0
Rob said:
Hi
well since last time i asked for advice i have had a few
problems...First problem was i had ordered some 400A 30V low Vf
Schottky diode rectifiers i won them on ebay
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=3877178672&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT
...But never got them through the post :( so that delayed me a week or
so..Then i Bought from a Surplus shop 8 x 110 amp Rectifiers..they
were only a about 3$ each ...used but untested..I got them from Cpi
surplus in the USA ..very fast service...Unfortunatley the diodes i
bought were Silicon controlled rectifiers...Which my Radio Ham friend
told me they are no use for what i wanted...So i was realy pissed
off!!...So i decided to spend even more money on another PSU rated at
5 Volts at 325 amps..I won it on ebay a week orso ago..
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7501227612&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT..

http://www.abex.co.uk/sales/electronic/psu/rack/p10/p_series.pdf

Its made by Power Ten INC.. its a 19 inch rack mounted PSU with
variable Voltage and Current control..First impressions were WOW!!
when i turned it on it sounded like a jet taking of lots of noise from
the internal fans...However my Smile was soon wiped of my face when i
tried to test the power output...

I connected it up to a short length of nicrome wire and set the
voltage to 5 Volts and slowly turned up the current .. all i could get
was 20 amps the wire glowed white hot ..Now i have done this test
before on my old 400watt computer PSU and it went off scale on my 25
amp analoge meter.. and melted the nicrome wire...

I then tried a very crude electrolyisis of my Lead Nitrate solution,
using my old 400 watt PSU i can get 15 amps thru it ..But with this
PSU i only managed a poxy 2 amps... i am now totaly pissed off!!!?

Have i wasted even more money?...How can i test my PSU?.. will it
damage the unit if i make a dead short on the connections.. and slowly
turn up the current ?...The control for the current works by setting a
limit on the power supply...I hope some one can put a smile back on my
face...

Dont forget i want to use the power supply for electrolysing Sodium
Chloride solution..I have read several patents and the cells run at
about 4.75 volts at several hundred amps....

So i assumed that a 5V supply should be able to do the job... I have
got several amp meters to read the current..

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...&item=4534893020&sspagename=STRK:MEWN:IT&rd=1
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7500828509&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT

But at the moment i have no power supply that can give me the current
i require..

Is the PSU faulty?...or is it something else i am overlooking?..

Hope some one can help ....

Cheers

Rob

"I connected it up to a short length of nicrome wire and set the
voltage to 5 Volts and slowly turned up the current .. all i could get
was 20 amps the wire glowed white hot ..Now i have done this test
before on my old 400watt computer PSU and it went off scale on my 25
amp analoge meter.. and melted the nicrome wire..."

How do you know it will only put out 20 Amps? What is the "droop" on the
five volts as you increase the current? What is the current sensing scheme
in the PS? At 325Amps, you can be sure there is an "ample" shunt some where
in the unit. Be sure the right shunt is in place. Double up on the nichrome
test resistor and cut its lenght in half. Better yet, put the nichrome in a
pan of water and measure the voltage and current. The water should keep it
cool enough that the resistance stays more or less constant. You need to
make a resistor you can rely on that is about 0.125 ohms for 40 Amps @ 5
Volts. Be sure the leads and connections don't add to your resistance. It
wouldn't take much to degrade the current to 20 Amps.

On another subject, why couldn't you use the SCRs as rectifiers. All you
have to do is trigger them on each half cycle with some simple circuitry.
Bob
 
J

John Popelish

Jan 1, 1970
0
Rob said:
Hi
well since last time i asked for advice i have had a few
problems...First problem was i had ordered some 400A 30V low Vf
Schottky diode rectifiers i won them on ebay
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=3877178672&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT
...But never got them through the post :( so that delayed me a week or
so..Then i Bought from a Surplus shop 8 x 110 amp Rectifiers..they
were only a about 3$ each ...used but untested..I got them from Cpi
surplus in the USA ..very fast service...Unfortunatley the diodes i
bought were Silicon controlled rectifiers...Which my Radio Ham friend
told me they are no use for what i wanted...So i was realy pissed
off!!...So i decided to spend even more money on another PSU rated at
5 Volts at 325 amps..I won it on ebay a week orso ago..
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7501227612&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT..

http://www.abex.co.uk/sales/electronic/psu/rack/p10/p_series.pdf

Its made by Power Ten INC.. its a 19 inch rack mounted PSU with
variable Voltage and Current control..First impressions were WOW!!
when i turned it on it sounded like a jet taking of lots of noise from
the internal fans...However my Smile was soon wiped of my face when i
tried to test the power output...

I connected it up to a short length of nicrome wire and set the
voltage to 5 Volts and slowly turned up the current .. all i could get
was 20 amps the wire glowed white hot ..Now i have done this test
before on my old 400watt computer PSU and it went off scale on my 25
amp analoge meter.. and melted the nicrome wire...

I then tried a very crude electrolyisis of my Lead Nitrate solution,
using my old 400 watt PSU i can get 15 amps thru it ..But with this
PSU i only managed a poxy 2 amps... i am now totaly pissed off!!!?

Have i wasted even more money?...How can i test my PSU?.. will it
damage the unit if i make a dead short on the connections.. and slowly
turn up the current ?...The control for the current works by setting a
limit on the power supply...I hope some one can put a smile back on my
face...

Dont forget i want to use the power supply for electrolysing Sodium
Chloride solution..I have read several patents and the cells run at
about 4.75 volts at several hundred amps....

So i assumed that a 5V supply should be able to do the job... I have
got several amp meters to read the current..

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...&item=4534893020&sspagename=STRK:MEWN:IT&rd=1

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7500828509&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT

But at the moment i have no power supply that can give me the current
i require..

Is the PSU faulty?...or is it something else i am overlooking?..

Hope some one can help ....

Cheers

Rob
Either of the shunt meter combinations you bought will drop some of
the supply voltage as they read current. For the experiments you have
done so far, have the external current meters read about the same as
the panel meter on the supply? If so, eliminate the external meter
and just read the current of the panel of the supply.

It sounds like you are voltage limited, but it would be a good idea to
put a volt meter across any dummy load to verify that the load voltage
equals the panel meter on the supply.

You can parallel several chunks of nichrome for the load test. Make
sure you clamp them into heavy terminals (like split bolt clamps used
to bond ground wires) and use heavy wire (something with copper about
as fat as a pencil) from the supply to avoid voltage loss.
 
R

Rob

Jan 1, 1970
0
Ok let me explain a little bit more.. on the front panel i have 2
control knobs each one controls voltage and the second one is used to
set a limit on the current...the digital display, displays the actual
voltage and thel current in use..

Today what i have done is the following .. The rear Positive and
negative terminals i connected a piece of copper welding rod about a
foot long its about 2 mm thick.. To me this is a dead short and i
expected to be able to turn up the current so as to melt the copper
rod... However all that happend was that at about 30 odd amps it
glowed red and then the current gradually dropped to about 25 amps...I
admit i am a total novice at electrics but i was sure it would have
took more current than 30 amps...i was sure it would glow white hot
and pop like a fuse?...I then cut the welding rod and tried it at
about 3 inch long this time it glowed whiter at about 80 amps...at 5
volts..Now i have to say im getting very pissed off!!!..So next i
added to the rear terminals a 10mm bolt about 3 inch long .. turned up
the current and i stopped as it went over 150 amps???.... didnt want
to break anything so i stopped increasing the current...Now i am
totaly baffled the PSU can supply at least 150 amps to a big bolt?...
so why isnt it giveing that type of amperage thru my electrolyitic
cell?...

My final test was to use a car battery tester.. this consists of a
large strip of bent metal in between 2 metal prongs.. which has a amp
meter in between it can test 12 v and 6 v car batterys...you normaly
hold the prongs on the battery terminal and the heavy metal strip
gets very hot you can read the ammeter readings to see how good the
battery is..the bent metal strip is coverd with asbestos sheet to stop
getting burnt..

Well i connected this battery tester to the positive and negative
connection while my Dad turned up the current control..we stopped the
experiment at about 250 amps.. it was obvious the PSU was working?....

So i am totally gutted have i just wasted a lot of money... on a PSU..

Why ? wont the PSU supply lots of amps to my Cell?....I have read
several patents...the Voltage on the cell ranged between 3.9 v and 4.5
v? at several 100 amps?.. the electrolytic solution is a super
saturated Salt solution..?... I have replicated the exact experiment
yet it wont work?..So surley the PSU is faulty?... but yet if it is
why did it supply 250 + amps in the battery test?.. is there some way
i can force the amps out of the unit?...

If the answer is yes I have wasted even more money .. what power
supply do i actualy need?...I have had several knock backs with this
project.. but this one as knocked me of feet..My friend's say i have
to stop wasting money...but i will get another power supply if i have
to...i wont be beaten...i will just go bankcrupt :)..

Hope you can advise?...
 
J

John Popelish

Jan 1, 1970
0
Rob said:
Ok let me explain a little bit more.. on the front panel i have 2
control knobs each one controls voltage and the second one is used to
set a limit on the current...the digital display, displays the actual
voltage and thel current in use..

Today what i have done is the following .. The rear Positive and
negative terminals i connected a piece of copper welding rod about a
foot long its about 2 mm thick.. To me this is a dead short and i
expected to be able to turn up the current so as to melt the copper
rod... However all that happend was that at about 30 odd amps it
glowed red and then the current gradually dropped to about 25 amps...I
admit i am a total novice at electrics but i was sure it would have
took more current than 30 amps...i was sure it would glow white hot
and pop like a fuse?...I then cut the welding rod and tried it at
about 3 inch long this time it glowed whiter at about 80 amps...at 5
volts..Now i have to say im getting very pissed off!!!..So next i
added to the rear terminals a 10mm bolt about 3 inch long .. turned up
the current and i stopped as it went over 150 amps???.... didnt want
to break anything so i stopped increasing the current...Now i am
totaly baffled the PSU can supply at least 150 amps to a big bolt?...
so why isnt it giveing that type of amperage thru my electrolyitic
cell?...

My final test was to use a car battery tester.. this consists of a
large strip of bent metal in between 2 metal prongs.. which has a amp
meter in between it can test 12 v and 6 v car batterys...you normaly
hold the prongs on the battery terminal and the heavy metal strip
gets very hot you can read the ammeter readings to see how good the
battery is..the bent metal strip is coverd with asbestos sheet to stop
getting burnt..

Well i connected this battery tester to the positive and negative
connection while my Dad turned up the current control..we stopped the
experiment at about 250 amps.. it was obvious the PSU was working?....

So i am totally gutted have i just wasted a lot of money... on a PSU..

Why ? wont the PSU supply lots of amps to my Cell?....I have read
several patents...the Voltage on the cell ranged between 3.9 v and 4.5
v? at several 100 amps?.. the electrolytic solution is a super
saturated Salt solution..?... I have replicated the exact experiment
yet it wont work?..So surley the PSU is faulty?... but yet if it is
why did it supply 250 + amps in the battery test?.. is there some way
i can force the amps out of the unit?...

If the answer is yes I have wasted even more money .. what power
supply do i actualy need?...I have had several knock backs with this
project.. but this one as knocked me of feet..My friend's say i have
to stop wasting money...but i will get another power supply if i have
to...i wont be beaten...i will just go bankcrupt :)..

Hope you can advise?...

The patents you read talk about the voltage at the load, but you have
to get that current to the load with almost no voltage drop if your
supply has only the voltage needed for the load. What diameter copper
are you using to connect the supply to your salt load? The conductors
inside the salt bath also have to be very heavy to keep voltage loss
to a minimum, of you have to make up that extra voltage with a higher
voltage supply.
 
J

John Fields

Jan 1, 1970
0
Ok let me explain a little bit more.. on the front panel i have 2
control knobs each one controls voltage and the second one is used to
set a limit on the current...the digital display, displays the actual
voltage and thel current in use..

Today what i have done is the following .. The rear Positive and
negative terminals i connected a piece of copper welding rod about a
foot long its about 2 mm thick.. To me this is a dead short and i
expected to be able to turn up the current so as to melt the copper
rod... However all that happend was that at about 30 odd amps it
glowed red and then the current gradually dropped to about 25 amps

---
Yes. what happened is that the resistance of the rod was greater than
you thought, initially, and then as it got hotter and hotter its
resistance got greater and greater and increased to the point where
with 5 volts across it the power supply could only push 25 amps
through it.
---
...I admit i am a total novice at electrics but i was sure it would have
took more current than 30 amps...i was sure it would glow white hot
and pop like a fuse?...I then cut the welding rod and tried it at
about 3 inch long this time it glowed whiter at about 80 amps...at 5
volts..Now i have to say im getting very pissed off!!!..

---
Why? You're starting to get at the root of the problem! A shorter
piece of rod would have less resistance than than a longer one so, for
the same voltage across it, the PSU would push more current through
it, exactly what happened!

Since you cut the rod to 1/4 the length of the one foot one you stared
out with, the resistance would drop to 1/4 the resitance of the first
one, so with the same voltage across the short one you could expect
four times the current through it. Since you got 25 amps through the
long one, that means you should have been able to get 100 amps through
the short one, but since the short one got hotter than the first one
its resistance would increase to the point where you'd get something
less than 100 amps, which is what happened; you got 80 amps. Pretty
close, though!
---


So next i added to the rear terminals a 10mm bolt about 3 inch long ..
turned up the current and i stopped as it went over 150 amps???....
didnt want to break anything so i stopped increasing the current...
Now i am totaly baffled

---
The bolt had less resistance than the copper rod, so the PSU pushed
more current through it.
---
the PSU can supply at least 150 amps to a
big bolt?... so why isnt it giveing that type of amperage thru
my electrolyitic cell?...

---
Could be lots of reasons... The resistance of your electrolytic cell
is too high, the cables connecting it to the PSU are too long or have
a diameter that is too small, the connections from the PSU to the
cables and from the cables to the PSU have a resistance that is too
high...
---
My final test was to use a car battery tester.. this consists of a
large strip of bent metal in between 2 metal prongs.. which has a amp
meter in between it can test 12 v and 6 v car batterys...you normaly
hold the prongs on the battery terminal and the heavy metal strip
gets very hot you can read the ammeter readings to see how good the
battery is..the bent metal strip is coverd with asbestos sheet to stop
getting burnt..

Well i connected this battery tester to the positive and negative
connection while my Dad turned up the current control..we stopped the
experiment at about 250 amps.. it was obvious the PSU was working?....

So i am totally gutted have i just wasted a lot of money... on a PSU..

Why ? wont the PSU supply lots of amps to my Cell?....I have read
several patents...the Voltage on the cell ranged between 3.9 v and 4.5
v? at several 100 amps?.. the electrolytic solution is a super
saturated Salt solution..?... I have replicated the exact experiment
yet it wont work?..So surley the PSU is faulty?... but yet if it is
why did it supply 250 + amps in the battery test?.. is there some way
i can force the amps out of the unit?...

---
Lower the resistance of whatever is between the PSU and the cell or
get a PSU with a higher voltage output.
---
If the answer is yes I have wasted even more money .. what power
supply do i actualy need?...I have had several knock backs with this
project.. but this one as knocked me of feet..My friend's say i have
to stop wasting money...but i will get another power supply if i have
to...i wont be beaten...i will just go bankcrupt :)..

---
You refuse to quit, huh? EXCELLENT!!!
---
Hope you can advise?...

---
If you crank it to the max with no load on it, what kind of voltage
can you get out of it?

Your PSU obviously works, so the trick is going to be to get as much
of that 5V it can put out to the cell.

If we look at the worst case input voltage for the cell, you say that
that's 4.5V, so that means that if the most you can get out of the
power supply is 5.0V and the cell needs 4.5V to work, you can only
lose 0.5V in the wiring between the supply and the cell. If you want
to put 250 amps into the cell, that means that 250 amps also has to go
through the wiring, so the maximum resistance you're allowed is:

E 0.5V
R = --- = ------ = 0.002 ohms
I 250A

which isn't a lot of resistance, so the first order of business will
be to select the size of cable which will pass 250 amps without
dropping 0.5V. If we arbitrarily say that the PSU will be located so
that there will need to be ten feet of cable from the PSU to the cell,
and then ten feet of cable from the cell back to the PSU, then that
means that the cable we choose will have to have a resistance of less
than 2 milliohms per 20 feet, or 100µohms per foot.

Consulting a wire table, we find that #0 AWG has a resistance of 0.098
ohms per thousand feet, so that will work. With a diameter of 0.325",
it won't be that hard to work with, either. To get the lowest
resistance connections you should solder lugs on the ends of the
cables and make sure the connections to the power supply and the cell
are good and tight.

One final trick, your power supply has remote sensing, which means
that instead of keeping the voltage regulated at the output of the
supply, you can set it up to keep the voltage AT THE CELL regulated
and compensate for the cable resistance, within limits. I'd still go
with the #0 and the soldered lugs and all, but I'd use remote sensing
to compensate for cable heating and changes in the cell resistance
when it's running, etc. Check 3.5 on page 36 of the manual for how to
do it.
 
R

Rob

Jan 1, 1970
0
On another subject, why couldn't you use the SCRs as rectifiers. All you
have to do is trigger them on each half cycle with some simple circuitry.
Bob


Is it easy to make a circuit to make to use of the SCR diodes? ? were
would i find such a circuit diagram?
 
B

Bob Eldred

Jan 1, 1970
0
Rob said:
Ok let me explain a little bit more.. on the front panel i have 2
control knobs each one controls voltage and the second one is used to
set a limit on the current...the digital display, displays the actual
voltage and thel current in use..

Today what i have done is the following .. The rear Positive and
negative terminals i connected a piece of copper welding rod about a
foot long its about 2 mm thick.. To me this is a dead short and i
expected to be able to turn up the current so as to melt the copper
rod... However all that happend was that at about 30 odd amps it
glowed red and then the current gradually dropped to about 25 amps...I
admit i am a total novice at electrics but i was sure it would have
took more current than 30 amps...i was sure it would glow white hot
and pop like a fuse?...I then cut the welding rod and tried it at
about 3 inch long this time it glowed whiter at about 80 amps...at 5
volts..Now i have to say im getting very pissed off!!!..So next i
added to the rear terminals a 10mm bolt about 3 inch long .. turned up
the current and i stopped as it went over 150 amps???.... didnt want
to break anything so i stopped increasing the current...Now i am
totaly baffled the PSU can supply at least 150 amps to a big bolt?...
so why isnt it giveing that type of amperage thru my electrolyitic
cell?...

My final test was to use a car battery tester.. this consists of a
large strip of bent metal in between 2 metal prongs.. which has a amp
meter in between it can test 12 v and 6 v car batterys...you normaly
hold the prongs on the battery terminal and the heavy metal strip
gets very hot you can read the ammeter readings to see how good the
battery is..the bent metal strip is coverd with asbestos sheet to stop
getting burnt..

Well i connected this battery tester to the positive and negative
connection while my Dad turned up the current control..we stopped the
experiment at about 250 amps.. it was obvious the PSU was working?....

So i am totally gutted have i just wasted a lot of money... on a PSU..

Why ? wont the PSU supply lots of amps to my Cell?....I have read
several patents...the Voltage on the cell ranged between 3.9 v and 4.5
v? at several 100 amps?.. the electrolytic solution is a super
saturated Salt solution..?... I have replicated the exact experiment
yet it wont work?..So surley the PSU is faulty?... but yet if it is
why did it supply 250 + amps in the battery test?.. is there some way
i can force the amps out of the unit?...

If the answer is yes I have wasted even more money .. what power
supply do i actualy need?...I have had several knock backs with this
project.. but this one as knocked me of feet..My friend's say i have
to stop wasting money...but i will get another power supply if i have
to...i wont be beaten...i will just go bankcrupt :)..

Hope you can advise?...

For openers, your cell resistance plus all of the other resistances of the
wires, connections, etc., add up to more than 0.05 Ohms required to get 100
Amps at five volts. A power supply of this current capability will 'always'
have remote voltage sensing that allows you to sense the voltage at the
load bypassing the voltage drops of wires, terminals, shunts, etc. At the
output terminals of the P.S. look for a second connection on both the
positive and negative points labeled "sense" or "voltage sense" or some such
wording. Disconnect these wires from the output terminals and re-connect
them with extension wires directly to your load, resistor, welding rod or
cell making it a four wire connection. That way the power supply will
maintain five volts at the load and not somewhere else, up stream as it now
does. In doing this, I think you'll find much better performance with the
ability to deliver much greater current.

Another point: Any metal that gets hot, especially red hot, increases
markedly in resistance. This limits the current to some lower than expected
value. Light bulbs work this way. When cold, the resistance is low and it
increases to a high value when the lamp is operating which limits the
current keeping the lamp from blowing. I suspect that is why you had trouble
delivering higher currents into your rod resistances. This is the reason why
I suggested placing the resistance elements in water, to keep the increase
in temperature, and therefore resistance in check.
Bob
 
F

Fritz Schlunder

Jan 1, 1970
0
I then tried a very crude electrolyisis of my Lead Nitrate solution,
using my old 400 watt PSU i can get 15 amps thru it ..But with this
PSU i only managed a poxy 2 amps... i am now totaly pissed off!!!?


As others have suggested either indirectly or directly stated, your power
supply is almost certainly perfectly fine. The problem lies in your
implementation and/or understanding of the physics and chemistry of what you
are doing.

The answer to why you only got 2A versus 15A through your lead nitrate
solution lies probably in your words "very crude." Something differed
between your two tests, and I would bet it was more than just the PSU you
employed. The chemistry behind the electrolysis cell is very important in
dertermining what your results will be. Not only does the chemical reaction
have a built in voltage (below which possibly very little current will flow
at all regardless of voltage applied), but other physical factors are very
important as well. The electrode material and geometry can be very
important. The spacing between the electrodes may be important. Addionally
the molarities and other chemistry aspects (ex: temperature, prescence of
impurities, etc.) will play a major role.

You most likely altered something you weren't aware of between the two tests
that made a major impact on the cell's performance.

It is also conceiveable the 400W PSU (presumably from a computer) output
something more than 5V on the 5V rail (which I what I assume you used).
Given that they have multiple rails to regulate, they often end up not
regulating any of them very well, so it isn't that hard to find computer
PSUs that output say 5.5V on the 5V rail. The new PSU probably is better
regulated since it has only one rail and is a high end device. If it only
outputted say 4.8V (which is acceptable for most 5V specifications), then
that might also play a role in producing your differing results.

Dont forget i want to use the power supply for electrolysing Sodium
Chloride solution..I have read several patents and the cells run at
about 4.75 volts at several hundred amps....


What exactly are you trying to do? Can you tell us what patent numbers you
are looking at and/or provide us with links so we can read for ourselves?
As I understand it sodium chloride has a melting point of 804 deg. C. As I
understand it sodium metal vapor can possibly catch fire or maybe even
explode at this temperature when in contact with air. Even so you have to
keep the sodium away from air to prevent it from extreme rapid oxidation at
these temperatures. So normally something like 60% by mass of calcium
chloride is added to the cell to lower the melting point down to around
575-600 deg. C. Is this what you are planning to do?

As I understand it commercial production of sodium is typically done in
Downs cells operating at many thousands of amps with an applied voltage of
up to maybe 8V or so even though basic chemistry might lead you to believe
4.07V is adequate. At high current it is crucially important to keep
parasitic resistances down both inside and outside of the cell.

In addition to using your power supply's voltage sensing at the load
feature, you might also consider changing the calibrated 5V reference
voltage. The manual also has a section detailing this. If you adjust the
potentiometer to set it at the maximum you may be able to coax somewhat
higher voltage out of the device, but it may have adverse side effects such
as making the readouts on the front somewhat inaccurate. I would consider
this as a last resort.

Have you actually tried hooking your new supply up to an NaCl electrolyser?
I'm guessing you haven't. I'm guessing you haven't constructed that part
yet. You might be suprised, it may actually work better than you are
currently convinced it will. Molten sodium chloride isn't the same stuff as
some kind of crude lead nitrate solution.

You may find something like this wire gauge specifications calculator useful
in helping you with obeying V=IR in your design.

http://www.mogami.com/e/cad/wire-gauge.html
 
R

Rob

Jan 1, 1970
0
Sorry to be a pain..

But can some one explain this to me ?


If i had good connections big thick wire , a Anode and cathode of say
stainless steel...surface area of 500 square cm and placed it in a
saturated salt solution( sodium chlordie dissolved in water) and
connected a PSU that was rated at 5 V 300 amps.. what current would
flow thru the cell?.. should it be like a dead short?. Is a DC psu
all the same ? are plating rectifiers different ?? I am sure than it
if i had a plating rectifier i would get my 100 amps thru the cell?


..I have just looked at some plating rectifiers... and saw a term
called "constant current" Does this mean the Plating rectifeirs can
be set to give out a fixed say 100 amps? current..thats is force the
amps thru the solution?...My PSU you set the Max limit that can be
drawn.. but a plating rectifier if you set 100 amps will it force 100
amps thru?.. in which case i think my dc PSU is not up to the
job..ARRRGGHHH...

To confirm this i have just won a 140 amp bridge rectifier on ebay.. i
will use this to get DC cuurrent from my 83 amp AC
transformer..hopefully when i connect this transformer to a salt
solution i will get more amps flowing thru?..i will use the 15 amp
Variac tocontrolnthe current?..

To be continued....
 
J

John Fields

Jan 1, 1970
0
Sorry to be a pain..

But can some one explain this to me ?


If i had good connections big thick wire , a Anode and cathode of say
stainless steel...surface area of 500 square cm and placed it in a
saturated salt solution( sodium chlordie dissolved in water) and
connected a PSU that was rated at 5 V 300 amps.. what current would
flow thru the cell?.. \

---
That depends on the resistance of the circuit. See below.
---

should it be like a dead short?.

---
Well... 0.017 ohms, which is a fairly small resistance, but it's not
quite a dead short.
---
Is a DC psu all the same ?

---
They're usually full-wave rectified AC with no smoothing.
---
are I am sure than it
if i had a plating rectifier i would get my 100 amps thru the cell?

---
If it could put out enough voltage to overcome the circuit resistance,
yes.
---
.I have just looked at some plating rectifiers... and saw a term
called "constant current" Does this mean the Plating rectifeirs can
be set to give out a fixed say 100 amps? current..thats is force the
amps thru the solution?...

---
Yes, if it can generate the voltage necessary to drive the 100 amps
through the resistance of the circuitry.
---
My PSU you set the Max limit that can be
drawn.. but a plating rectifier if you set 100 amps will it force 100
amps thru?..

---
Yes, if it can generate the voltage necessary to drive the 100 amps
through the resistance of the circuitry.
---
in which case i think my dc PSU is not up to the
job..ARRRGGHHH...

---
Your PSU will get the job done if you can get the circuit resistance
down low enough. If you can't, then you'll need a supply with higher
than a 5V output in order to overcome that resistance. See below.
---
To confirm this i have just won a 140 amp bridge rectifier on ebay.. i
will use this to get DC cuurrent from my 83 amp AC
transformer..hopefully when i connect this transformer to a salt
solution i will get more amps flowing thru?..i will use the 15 amp
Variac tocontrolnthe current?..

---
That will get more current through, but you need to make sure that you
don't exceed 83 amps for anything other than short intervals,
otherwise you'll damage the transformer. ISTR there was also
something about the fuse in the primary which limited the secondary
current to something less than 83A???
---

To be continued....

---
You need some electricity 101, so stop spending money for a while and
read this:

In the circuit you're talking about you need to be concerned with only
three things: voltage, current, and resistance.

If you were to look at it like plumbing, voltage would be like
pressure in a pipe, current would be like how much water would flow
through the pipe when the faucet was opened, and resistance would be
like the diameter of the pipe or how far the faucet was opened.

Let's say that you had a pipe with a faucet on one end and with the
faucet closed there was 100PSI of water pressure in the pipe.

Now let's say that with the faucet opened up up all the way you'd get
100 gallons per minute flowing out of the faucet. If you upped the
pressure to 200 PSI what would happen? You'd get 200 gallons per
minute flowing out of the faucet.

Same with electricity. If you had a power supply with a pressure of
100 volts which was causing 100 amps to flow through a wire and you
upped the voltage to 200 volts, what would happen? The current would
go to 200 amps.

Now, looking at the pipe, if its diameter was decreased but there was
still 100PSI of pressure in the system, what would happen? The flow
would _decrease_ because the resistance of the pipe would increase.

Same with electricity. For a given voltage, if the diameter of the
wire is decreased, the current in the wire will also decrease because
the wire will offer greater resistance to the flow of current.

We relate voltage, current, and resistance to each other using Ohm's
law:

E = I*R

Where E is the voltage difference between two points in a circuit,
R is the resistance between those points, and
I is the current in the circuit.

Just like water is made up of water molecules, electricity is made up
of electrons, and just like the quantity of water flowing past a fixed
point in a given amount of time depends on how many water molecules
flow past that point, the current in a conductor depends on how many
electrons move past a fixed point in a given amount of time.

If you want to get into it any deeper than that we can do that later,
but for right now you need to understand that, at a given voltage, the
current which a power supply can force through a resistance will
depend on that resistance.

In the case of your 5V supply, to determine how much current the
supply can force through the resistance we can rearrange:


E = I*R (1)


to:

E
I = ---
R


Now, if we have a 5 ohm resistance, we can write:


E 5V
I = --- = ---- = 1 ampere
R 5R


If we drop the resistance down to 1 ohm we'll have:


E 5V
I = --- = ---- = 5 amperes
R 1R


so you can see that the lower the resistance, the more current the
power supply can force through the resistance.


In order to determine what the resistance needs to be in order to
allow, say, 250 amps to flow from a 5V supply, we'll rearrange (1) to


E 5V
R = --- = ------ = 0.02 ohms
I 250A

Which is a pretty small resistance and is the reason you can't get
much current through your cell. Also, that's the _total_ resistance,
which includes the cell, the cables, and all the fittings between the
cell and the supply, so a high resistance anywhere in that chain can
spell failure.
 
F

Fritz Schlunder

Jan 1, 1970
0
Rob said:
Sorry to be a pain..

But can some one explain this to me ?


If i had good connections big thick wire , a Anode and cathode of say
stainless steel...surface area of 500 square cm and placed it in a
saturated salt solution( sodium chlordie dissolved in water) and
connected a PSU that was rated at 5 V 300 amps..


Okay well I got curious enough to try this out. I used an 8oz plastic
yogurt cup mostly filled with water and some (though not necessarily fully
saturated) table salt (I used iodized salt, so not quite pure NaCl). One
electrode was the back plate for an ATX computer case (where all the
connectors on the motherboard exit to the real world). I'm sure this is
some kind of steel though perhaps not stainless. The other electrode was a
standard nail used for nailing 2"x4" wood together for making houses and
things.

I used the 5V rail of a computer power supply (measured at 4.88V output). I
managed to get somewhere between 3A-7.5A depending upon the exact time. The
wiring resistance used to the cell was fairly small (~0.1 ohms), so the
primary current limiting effect was provided by the electrolysis cell. The
nail was hooked to +4.88V while the other electrode was hooked to ground.
After maybe around half an hour the nail had pretty much totally disappeared
into the solution. The other electrode was largely unchanged. During
operating a gas was observed to be bubbling up from the grounded electrode.
The other electrode did not bubble (at least not significantly). After the
nail was used up I replaced it with a large iron bolt and resumed the
reaction. Eventually the water turned into a dark grey thick sludge. If I
placed a small rare earth supermagnet on the exterior of the cup it would
stick. I could move the magnet around and move small amounts of the sludge
around with it.

My theory of the observed reaction is this (however it is only my theory and
I am no expert in electrochemistry):

2H2O(l) + 2e- --> H2(g) + 2OH-(aq) E=-0.83V
and
Fe(s) + 2OH-(aq) --> Fe(OH)2(s) +2e- E=0.88V

Adding these two half reaction potentials together gives 0.88V - 0.83V =
0.05V. I'm not sure but I think this reaction actually produces energy,
unlike making sodium metal and chlorine gas which takes lots of energy.

So in other words the gas that was observed to bubble up from the negative
electrode was most likely hydrogen gas.

If your objective is to make sodium metal, or even chlorine gas from your
sodium chloride, this method will not work. As I understand it whatever
chemical reaction that requires the least voltage will be the one that
dominates in your electrolysis cell. Since making sodium metal and chlorine
gas takes 4.07V while the above mentioned reactions may actually produce
energy (??) no sodium is produced. Electrolysis of plain water only takes
1.23V, so in the absence of any other possible reactions sodium would still
not be produced. Even if you could make sodium metal, it would instantly
react with the water in your cell to make something else (sodium hydroxide
maybe?). Some people like to throw sodium metal into pools of water for fun
since it makes quite a violent/explosive reaction.


What is your objective? What are those patent numbers you are looking at?
 
R

Rob

Jan 1, 1970
0
The Cell is going to be used to produce Sodium Pechlorate..you need a
anode made of Platinium or Lead dioxide.. ..its a two stage process
first you need six coloumbs of electricity to convert the chloride in
to chlorate >>>then a further 2 coloumbs of electricity to convert it
in to perchlorate..assuming 100% efficiency..in real life more like
50% to 60%..

I will post some patent numbers if you are intrested in how it
works..

One patent with lots of examples is 002945791 the page to look at is
page 6 example III and IV this gives all the info...you need to run
the cell...Notice the voltage is 4.75 Volts and current is 285
amps..in this example the current density is 1 amp per square
inch..total surface area of the lead dioxide anode is 285 sqaure
inches..My cell has approx 110 square inches hence i want to run the
cell at around 110 amps?..

All the patents i have read mention 4 to 5 volts... to run the cell
with leadioxide anodes ... you need higher voltage 6.5 v if Platinum
is used ..

I have tried everything with my power supply cannot deliver anywhere
near the currnet i require :(

Even tho its rated at 325 amps at 5V?..

So i am experimenting with 180 amp Arc welder..

I am sure that i need higher voltage power supply to get the current
needed.
..The Arc welder is AC so i will rectify the current with 140 amp
rectifier...so here is my theory...

i measured the voltage of the Arc welder it was 50V off load.. then i
measured it while it was welding(under load) the voltage was 30V..So i
belive this will happen..

i will connect it to my cell using a 15 amp variac to control the
current?..i reckon the Arc welder will drop voltage down to 4 V? on
the cell? whilst passing 100 orso amps?..

The only concern is my duty cycle? on the welder its rated at 5 KVA i
hoping this means it can supply 100 amps at 5V?..

If this doesnt work i will be errrr... stuck...

i have copied the following from a forum i post too...it has some
pictures of my anodes i will had pictures of my cell wents it
finshed....



Ok i think i have cracked making Large Graphite Substrate Lead Dioxide
Anodes (GSLD)..If you want to make Chlorate(ClO3) or Perchlorate(ClO4)
you can use various Anodes Platinum is the probably the best ...Lead
Dioxide (PbO2) is next best...

I have gone for the PbO2 anode because you can run the cell right from
Chloride(Cl) to Perchlorate(ClO4)..if you used Platinum to do this
then you will get excessive corrosion on the Platinum Anode due to the
low Chloride concentration stage..

I tried plating PbO2 on to 13 mm Carbon Gouging rods because they were
very cheap and looked like graphite!!.but i found it didnt take the
coating very well so i Binned the idea..Graphite works realy well..
I got some Fine grained 10 mm Graphite 500mm long rod
http://www.saspyro.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/Leaddioxidebig/Graphiterods.JPG

Also after making Good 10mm Anodes i got some larger 32 mm x 500mm
graphite rod
http://www.saspyro.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/Leaddioxidebig/Graphiteend.JPG

You need to treat the graphite so that the PbO2 adheres well.. To do
this you simply electolyse the anode in a 10% Sodium hydroxide
solution i applied 3 volts at about .0.05 Amps per square
Decimeter..that works out at about 1.5 to 1.75 amps For the 10 mm
Anode and about 6 to 7 amps for the 32 mm Anode..

Anode being etched
http://www.saspyro.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/Leaddioxidebig/Etchedanode.JPG

http://www.saspyro.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/Leaddioxidebig/Etchingintank.JPG

When electroplating the PbO2 tiny oxygen bubbles form,If theses
bubbles are allowed to stay on the coating these bubbles will form
pits which will allow the corrosive salt solution through and thus
destroy the substrate which in turns destroys the Anode..
In industry surficants are used which eliminates this problem..I spinn
the electrode the centrifugal force throws off the bubbles leaving a
nice smooth coating...

The plating tank was a 3 litre pyrex beaker .the plating solution was
333 g a litre Lead Nitrate + 50 g litre Copper Nitrate ..To spin the
electode i used a Small 240v electric motor from a Fan..Mounted on
plank of wood..To lower and raise the electode i used my camera tripod
...

The plating tank operated at approx 60 centigrade i used an electric
hotplate with magnetic stirrer to agitate the solution..

http://www.saspyro.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/Leaddioxide/Anode1intank1.JPG

http://www.saspyro.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/Leaddioxide/Anode1intankcloseup3.JPG

http://www.saspyro.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/Leaddioxide/Anode1intankrealclose4.JPG

Here is a close up of the finished product
http://www.saspyro.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/Leaddioxide/Anode1outoftankcloseup7.JPG

I tried the electrode in a Sodium Chloride solution and it took 9 amp
with no sign of errosion or heating.. So i Started making 32mm
anodes..
I had to use a larger electric motor the Small fan motor siezed up
when spinning the larger electode..Because the motor wieghed much more
i had to use Aluminium bar to mount the motor on ...the extra weight
helped reduce vibration..

http://www.saspyro.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/Leaddioxidebig/Anode4intank1.JPG

http://www.saspyro.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/Leaddioxidebig/Anode4intank11.JPG

http://www.saspyro.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/Leaddioxidebig/Anode36mmcloseup1.JPG

http://www.saspyro.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/Leaddioxidebig/Closeupanode4out17.JPG

After plating the tank is replenished with the addition of Lead
Dioxide (PbO) a bright yellow powder
...Plating
tank with an excess of PbO added
i leave it stirring over night
then filter the solution.. and leave it to stand for a few days before
use so that any nitrites formed (which lowers the plating tanks
efficiency).are oxidised back to nitrate..I acidify the solution to PH
1 with Nitric acid and its ready for use.

..I could have used a surficant to eliminate the bubbles, but continued
use of the plating tank ends up that the breakdown products of the
surficant makes a poor PbO2 coating...and to eliminate the breakdown
products required the use of amly alcohol and distillation
equipment...
Here are a few more pictures


http://www.saspyro.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/Leaddioxidebig/Anodesvarious.JPG

http://www.saspyro.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/Leaddioxidebig/Ptmesh.JPG]

http://www.saspyro.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/Leaddioxidebig/13mmPbO2anodenumber1.JPG

http://www.saspyro.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/Leaddioxidebig/Anode.JPG
36 mm Anode made to take at least 27 amps[/url]
 
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