Whirlpool washer lid switch

[[email protected]]

My Whirlpool Atlantis top-loading washing machine has stopped working.

After researching a bit in the manual and on-line, it looks like it's a
problem w/ the lid switch, because it runs fine if I press in on the
little plastic spring-loaded "pin" inside the slot where the lid meets
the back of the top rim....but I have to keep pressure on the "pin".

*Photo of washer top with lid removed (see the hole near the bottom
center)
http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=1/807381350.jpg&s=x11

*Photo close-up of the hole (inside is the plastic "pin")
http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=1/807391272.jpg&s=x11

Apparently the back of the lid itself has a little plastic "nodule"
sticking out which is supposed to press the "pin" inwards whenever the
lid is closed.

*photo of the "nodule" as it protrudes from back of lid
http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=1/807384092.jpg&s=x11

The "nodule" doesn't seem to be making sufficient contact/pressure on
the "pin". When I press the "pin" in with a stick, the machine starts
running. I don't see any rough edges on the "nodule", so it doesn't
LOOK like anything broke off. The "nodule" DOES seem a little loose.

*Photo from inside of lid showing how the "nodule" is connected to the
lid
http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=1/807385775.jpg&s=x11

I havent worked on an appliance like this, but I can't afford to spend
a fortune on a repair person if it is a simple fix I could do myself.
Advice, anyone? (I don't get much response from alt.home.repair, so I
hope it's okay to post this here.)

Greg

 

[[email protected]]

Also I found this little plastic thing in the laundry room. I have no
idea if it came form the washing machine. It is a about a third of an
inch wide.

*photo
http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=1/808132173.jpg&s=x11

 

[Rodney Pont]

*Photo close-up of the hole (inside is the plastic "pin")
http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=1/807391272.jpg&s=x11

The first thing that comes to mind is to check that the two screws are
tight and holding the switch unit (behind) in position. If that's the
case you need to get inside and see why the 'nodule' isn't pushing the
'pin' far enough to trip the switch.

 

[James Sweet]

My Whirlpool Atlantis top-loading washing machine has stopped working.

After researching a bit in the manual and on-line, it looks like it's a
problem w/ the lid switch, because it runs fine if I press in on the
little plastic spring-loaded "pin" inside the slot where the lid meets
the back of the top rim....but I have to keep pressure on the "pin".

*Photo of washer top with lid removed (see the hole near the bottom
center)
http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=1/807381350.jpg&s=x11

*Photo close-up of the hole (inside is the plastic "pin")
http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=1/807391272.jpg&s=x11

Apparently the back of the lid itself has a little plastic "nodule"
sticking out which is supposed to press the "pin" inwards whenever the
lid is closed.

*photo of the "nodule" as it protrudes from back of lid
http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=1/807384092.jpg&s=x11

The "nodule" doesn't seem to be making sufficient contact/pressure on
the "pin". When I press the "pin" in with a stick, the machine starts
running. I don't see any rough edges on the "nodule", so it doesn't
LOOK like anything broke off. The "nodule" DOES seem a little loose.

*Photo from inside of lid showing how the "nodule" is connected to the
lid
http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=1/807385775.jpg&s=x11

I havent worked on an appliance like this, but I can't afford to spend
a fortune on a repair person if it is a simple fix I could do myself.
Advice, anyone? (I don't get much response from alt.home.repair, so I
hope it's okay to post this here.)

Greg

Try www.repairclinic.com, they have a nifty part search engine so you
can find the parts in question and see what they're supposed to look
like. They have good prices on replacement parts too, I've never had a
problem with them.

 

[Deke]

Also I found this little plastic thing in the laundry room. I have no
idea if it came form the washing machine. It is a about a third of an
inch wide.

*photo
http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=1/808132173.jpg&s=x11

Try this site out....
http://www.applianceaid.com/repair-help.html

 

[James Douglas]

My Whirlpool Atlantis top-loading washing machine has stopped working.

After researching a bit in the manual and on-line, it looks like it's a
problem w/ the lid switch, because it runs fine if I press in on the
little plastic spring-loaded "pin" inside the slot where the lid meets
the back of the top rim....but I have to keep pressure on the "pin".

*Photo of washer top with lid removed (see the hole near the bottom
center)
http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=1/807381350.jpg&s=x11

*Photo close-up of the hole (inside is the plastic "pin")
http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=1/807391272.jpg&s=x11

Apparently the back of the lid itself has a little plastic "nodule"
sticking out which is supposed to press the "pin" inwards whenever the
lid is closed.

*photo of the "nodule" as it protrudes from back of lid
http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=1/807384092.jpg&s=x11

The "nodule" doesn't seem to be making sufficient contact/pressure on
the "pin". When I press the "pin" in with a stick, the machine starts
running. I don't see any rough edges on the "nodule", so it doesn't
LOOK like anything broke off. The "nodule" DOES seem a little loose.

*Photo from inside of lid showing how the "nodule" is connected to the
lid
http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=1/807385775.jpg&s=x11

I havent worked on an appliance like this, but I can't afford to spend
a fortune on a repair person if it is a simple fix I could do myself.
Advice, anyone? (I don't get much response from alt.home.repair, so I
hope it's okay to post this here.)

Greg

Somebody is going to hate this answer! If you are not a complete idiot
and typically do not put your hands inside the machine while on high
speed spin cycle, simply force the safety switch to be on all the time?
I used to service computer, etc with interfaces to various systems which
had multiple safety interlocks, which typically the technician would be
forced to disable before working on the equipment. Or take the machine
apart and adjust the switch so it is acuated when the door is closed.

 

[[email protected]]

Somebody is going to hate this answer! If you are not a complete idiot

and typically do not put your hands inside the machine while on high
speed spin cycle, simply force the safety switch to be on all the time?
I used to service computer, etc with interfaces to various systems which
had multiple safety interlocks, which typically the technician would be
forced to disable before working on the equipment.

I completely agree w/ you and will share your advice w/ somebody in my
household.
I solved it by inserting a screw behind the switch assembly, thus
securing it closer to the lid nodule where proper contact can be made
when the lid closes. I don't know why/how it had moved out of position
in the first place.

Thanks, everyone.

 

[spudnuty]

I completely agree w/ you and will share your advice w/ somebody in my
household.
I solved it by inserting a screw behind the switch assembly, thus
securing it closer to the lid nodule where proper contact can be made
when the lid closes. I don't know why/how it had moved out of position
in the first place.

Thanks, everyone.

I would agree that the two previous posters suggestions would work.
This same thing happened to our Maytag and a clients Maytag. On ours
the switch was accessable from the outside between the tub and the
outer shell. I was able to remove the two screws and replace it. Cost
was around $7.
Richard

 

[jakdedert]

I would agree that the two previous posters suggestions would work.
This same thing happened to our Maytag and a clients Maytag. On ours
the switch was accessable from the outside between the tub and the
outer shell. I was able to remove the two screws and replace it. Cost
was around $7.
Richard

Me too...certainly the best solution...and not all that uncommon to be
able to replace the switch with minimal or no disassembly. OTOH, I've
bought second-hand machines with a completely missing switch, which I
operated for years with no mishap.

jak