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Where to get 'capacitor kit' for Element TV, ELGFT-401 ?

R

RobertMacy

Jan 1, 1970
0
tried to post to the
sci.electronics.repair
group through AIOE and got
441 Banlist
error message ??
yet, I can read messages there, coming through eternal-september, just
can't reply, or post evidently.
= = =

Any ideas where to get a capacitor kit for this TV?

Or, a list of problem caps and placement?
 
R

RobertMacy

Jan 1, 1970
0
tried to post to the
sci.electronics.repair
group through AIOE and got
441 Banlist
error message ??
yet, I can read messages there, coming through eternal-september, just
can't reply, or post evidently.
= = =

Any ideas where to get a capacitor kit for this TV?

Or, a list of problem caps and placement?

Need some help here.
 
D

Don Y

Jan 1, 1970
0
Hi Robert,

Need some help here.

Write to the support/admin at AIOE and ask why you're "banned"
from posting. It could be that the entire group is "R/O".
Or, perhaps you've done something to merit being singled out?
 
R

RobertMacy

Jan 1, 1970
0
Need some help here.

The power supply inside the TV is
Model MLT668TL
H060185103200274

so, how about a capacitor kit for that?
 
Why do you have to buy a kit ? Got an ESR meter ? Or even replace them all if you feel like it.

Another thing is those capacitor values are not critical. I know from experience, I just don't want to up the capacity too much because of surge current.

The ONLY other concern about the capacities is shutdown. they don't want for example, like a five volt suply to slam ground when the 3.3 volt is stillup. If the chips powered by these sources do communicate it could cause problems, both software AND hardware. So don't get ridiculous.

I would just open the thing up. pull some of them and see the values and calll Digikey. Actualy they are not the cheapest but you can easily choose better quality caps from them.

I am going to take to the road eventually and really, I am only ordering a few values. I am going order the best onesa though. the ones with lower ESR, higher ripple current ratings and longer MTBF, yup. Then I can replace original 2200s with 1500s if I want and not have a callback or any other adverse effects.

Like a bunch of times for example, befroe I actually studied the situation,I would of course replae three 2200s with two 3300s. Thing is I didn't even have to do that. What's more I have seen the same model sometimes with the original caps and the values are changed anyway - which values were right?

The fact is they all are, the uF doesn't matter all that much, it is the ripple current. As such, if you figure this out it makes everyting easier.

Tell you what, you replace every cap of 1000 or higher with 1000s, from a reputanble source, you will outlast the original, I guarantee it. But you need good caps. Those 1000s will cost you MORE than the original 2200s, 3300setc.

When you get to about 4700 uF, get a bigger replacement, at least half the value or 2200. You can do this, I have proved it.

Hell, in my sister's monitor I replaed a 1000 with something like a 47 and the fucker has been working for over a year now, 100 % duty cycle, never went off. i must admiot though that the 47 uF was about twenty years old in my parts bin. I only used to for test. I told her I would ge tthe right cap,and I do have it now, but the damn thing never failed !

the uF of the cap has absolutely nothing to do with it's quality. And if you are worried about damaging the circuitry for using caps of a lower value,what happens when they have NO value ? you replace caps and the thing works, that means the other components are good. Good = undamaged.

Manufacturer's goals are diametricall opposed to ours and I know they do things to make it cost more to sevince the product. Therefore they would liketo see you have to spend a shitload of money on stock parts. That is whereI beat their ass. I order shit that'll work in as much as possible. Gimme the 16 ampe MOSFETS instead of the 12s. things like this.

Problem is it is useless knowledge now, these things are going to be klike toasters soon unless the US dollar drops like a rock.
 
R

RobertMacy

Jan 1, 1970
0
Why do you have to buy a kit ? Got an ESR meter ? Or even replace them
all if you feel like it.

Another thing is those capacitor values are not critical. I know from
experience, I just don't want to up the capacity too much because of
surge current.

The ONLY other concern about the capacities is shutdown. they don't want
for example, like a five volt suply to slam ground when the 3.3 volt is
still up. If the chips powered by these sources do communicate it could
cause problems, both software AND hardware. So don't get ridiculous.

I would just open the thing up. pull some of them and see the values and
calll Digikey. Actualy they are not the cheapest but you can easily
choose better quality caps from them.

...snip....

Thank you for the reply. Great idea to only replace 'bad' ones. This unit
is not that difficult to take apart. Does somebody sell an effective esr
meter for 'in situ' measurements? Or, free software for use with a
soundcard?

Have you had surge currents be a problem after replacing with LARGE
cap(s)? Potential power sequencing problems? have no idea how to determine
that one. Makes me envision the "[insert ethnic group of your choice] mine
detector", where he has his ears covered and is stomping around on the
ground with one foot. Just no way to find out if power sequencing is a
problem until too late.
 
Don't worry about power up. The engineers worried about that. They didn't use 100,000 uF, don't use 100,000 uF.

As far as a tester based on a PC soundcard, I have never heard of one. I will think about it. I used a scope for a long time with a 1Khz square wave and it worked like the dickens.

Actually, I could probably draw the responses from good and bad caps of a bunch of different values and explain what has to be looked for. Aftert hat you can do a mental FFT and ficuge it out. I guess is 20Khz bandwidth is not going to cut it, but I could be wrong. What's more there could bea a workaround.
 
R

RobertMacy

Jan 1, 1970
0
Don't worry about power up. The engineers worried about that. They
didn't use 100,000 uF, don't use 100,000 uF.

As far as a tester based on a PC soundcard, I have never heard of one. I
will think about it. I used a scope for a long time with a 1Khz square
wave and it worked like the dickens.

Actually, I could probably draw the responses from good and bad caps of
a bunch of different values and explain what has to be looked for.
Aftert hat you can do a mental FFT and ficuge it out. I guess is 20Khz
bandwidth is not going to cut it, but I could be wrong. What's more
there could bea a workaround.


Interesting you mentioned Soundcard.

Use one channel OUT from the soundcard and two channels IN. The single
output channel, Vout, is monitored by channel 1 and channel 2 monitors the
other end of the resistor connected to the capacitor under test.

I just simulated the soundcard technique using LTspice and by simply using
some simple V1-V2 and V2 it is possible to use real() to get the esr and
imag()to get the capacitance value independent of the frequency [as long
as you use 2 pi f for the capacitor calculation]

I just started writing the C/C++ code [actually a modificaiton of
something I've already been doing] that can slightly self-calibrate and
then start running, as it runs the display screen will show the two
values, whether you attach a cap, or not.

Later I'll add a check for noise and/or ranges of signal levels to
estimate the accuracy, like in some ranges should be better than 0.1% for
the cap and 1% for the esr, but as the cap gets too small or too large,
those numbers change and it would be nice to have some level of confidence
show on the screen too, like...

C = 47.0 uF within 1%
Resr = 33.0 milliohm within 5%

something like that, I haven't calculated how accurate the numbers will
come out, I just guessed at the above accuracies.

The actual accuracy will be based upon how good a resistor that's used.
like a 0.01% 10ppm or such, or don't care and use some way to calibrate,
but that takes some very good loads.


With some more work, it would be easy to make this a true RLC meter, for
right now only need a cap/esr meter
 
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