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Weller WTCPN Problems

T

Tim Wescott

Jan 1, 1970
0
Anyone have any experience with the Weller WTCPN soldering station and
TC201 iron? I just blew the fuse in the station -- other than chucking
the tip, is there anything else I need to do? Am I screwed?

Where's the actual heating element in these? I assume the switch is in
the tip.

Thanks.
 
N

Nicholas O. Lindan

Jan 1, 1970
0
Tim Wescott said:
Anyone have any experience with the Weller WTCPN soldering station and
TC201 iron? I just blew the fuse in the station -- other than chucking
the tip, is there anything else I need to do? Am I screwed?

Is this the one with the magnetic tip? If so, there is not much
that can go wrong.

Does it blow a new fuse? The base is just a transformer and on-off
switch. I would ohm the transformer primary and secondary and the
heater handle.

For the young-uns:

The handle contains heater and a magnetic switch. The tips have a slug
in them. The slugs are made from various alloys that loose there
magnetic properties at some temperature, this turns off the heater
till the magnet cools down and again attracts the switch to turn the
iron on. Tips come with different slugs with different curie temperatures.
Not a uP to be seen _any where_.
 
S

Spehro Pefhany

Jan 1, 1970
0
Is this the one with the magnetic tip? If so, there is not much
that can go wrong.

Does it blow a new fuse? The base is just a transformer and on-off
switch. I would ohm the transformer primary and secondary and the
heater handle.

I bet it's either a bad fuse or a bad heater. New heater is around
fifteen bucks US, no big deal.
 
R

Ross Herbert

Jan 1, 1970
0
Anyone have any experience with the Weller WTCPN soldering station and
TC201 iron? I just blew the fuse in the station -- other than chucking
the tip, is there anything else I need to do? Am I screwed?

Where's the actual heating element in these? I assume the switch is in
the tip.

Thanks.


Follow the advice from Nicholas just to be sure.

Depending on the country of manufacture for your base unit there may
be an in-line fuse inside the case. I know there is on mine
(Australian manufacture).

I would also suggest that you check the heater element to make sure
that there is no connection between the element and the outer tube.
When these get old the ceramic cement separating the element from the
outer tube can break down thus resulting in a short circuit across the
transformer secondary. I have seen this happen on one of mine.
 
T

Tim Wescott

Jan 1, 1970
0
Spehro said:
I bet it's either a bad fuse or a bad heater. New heater is around
fifteen bucks US, no big deal.
The fuse is fine -- it did it's job. The base now has a natty fuse
block with fuse #3 in it. It appears that the heater is, indeed, bad
and I've ordered heating element #2. If I get time I'll dink with the
heater element per Ross's comments, to see if I can get it going for the
next few days.

Thanks guys. Sphero, if a heater doesn't fix it I'll whine at _you_, OK?
 
T

Tim Wescott

Jan 1, 1970
0
Nicholas said:
Is this the one with the magnetic tip? If so, there is not much
that can go wrong.

Does it blow a new fuse? The base is just a transformer and on-off
switch. I would ohm the transformer primary and secondary and the
heater handle.

For the young-uns:

The handle contains heater and a magnetic switch. The tips have a slug
in them. The slugs are made from various alloys that loose there
magnetic properties at some temperature, this turns off the heater
till the magnet cools down and again attracts the switch to turn the
iron on. Tips come with different slugs with different curie temperatures.
Not a uP to be seen _any where_.
Is that how it works? Cleva.

But there's often a micro under the iron...
 
J

Joerg

Jan 1, 1970
0
Hi Tim,

You've got all the hints you needs. Like Spehro my first guess would be
the heater element. Other than a short in the connector there isn't much
more in these things that could trip the fuse.

If you ever think about a new one: I am very pleased with the adjustable
version WECP. The simple one with just the temperature dial knob, the
fancy ones with digital readout blew out on me too often and then it's
always expensive. The WECP cuts down on the number of tips needed, no
more #6, 7, 8. Less blisters, too. And it's handy for the new 'unleaded'
stuff where temps need to be higher or when you can briefly crank it up
to unsolder some big electrolytic.

Regards, Joerg
 
J

John Crighton

Jan 1, 1970
0
Anyone have any experience with the Weller WTCPN soldering station and
TC201 iron? I just blew the fuse in the station -- other than chucking
the tip, is there anything else I need to do? Am I screwed?

Certainly not. You can fix it.
Unplug or disconnect the soldering pencil TC201 from
the transformer.
Check and test the transformer , 24V 2 amp.
If it is dud, any old tramsformer around 22v to 26V capable
of supplying at least 2 amps will be fine. Find a replacement
transformer from your junk supply. Or power the iron TC201
from a suitable bench DC power supply if you are in a hurry
to do some some sodering.

Check the TC201 soldering pencil/iron.
Do a continuity check. 2 element wires and 1 earth wire.
Look for low resistance.
If open circuit all is not lost.
There is a switch in series with the element.

Have a look here and you will see what I am talking about.
http://www.arcade-electronics.com/cooper/page0071.JPG

Where's the actual heating element in these? I assume the switch is in
the tip.

Look at the diagram and you will see the element and switch assembly.
Undo the three screws that form a triangle and separate the
metalwork from the plastic handle. The fourth screw holds
a small bracket. You can loosen that one later.

Thanks.

--

Tim Wescott
Wescott Design Services
http://www.wescottdesign.com


When you open it up you will see the heating element and
a sealed magnetic switch assembly held by a spring resting
on the small bracket.

Be very careful how you handle the fragile wires going to
the heating element. They break off easily and then you
will be kicking yourself when you find out the price of a
replacement element.

The switch should be closed, so check it with
your ohm meter.
If the switch is dodgy and you just want to make a temporary
repair you can carefully drill and cut away some plastic to
expose the switch contacts and then clean them.
Use one of your soldering iron tips to check the action
of the switch. You will feel the magnetism and here a
click. Use your ohm meter on th eswitch contacts.

You will find the fault easily.

Regards,
John Crighton
Sydney
 
B

Bill Bailley

Jan 1, 1970
0
Tim Wescott said:
Anyone have any experience with the Weller WTCPN soldering station and
TC201 iron? I just blew the fuse in the station -- other than chucking
the tip, is there anything else I need to do? Am I screwed?

Where's the actual heating element in these? I assume the switch is in
the tip.

Thanks.

--

Tim Wescott
Wescott Design Services
http://www.wescottdesign.com

I have owned the same iron for quite a few years now. I got quite fed up
with fairly constant replacements of the switch assy. Those contacts are
switching 2 amps many times in a working day and burn out on a regular
basis. While you are fixing it, you may want to consider a small
modification which will give the switch a very long life.

Some years ago I rewired the pencil so that the switch controlled a GP triac
mounted in the base assembly. For safety reasons, the triac is controlling
the 24vac feeding the pencil. A small heat sink was required and, from
memory, the element was getting about 21 volts. I did think of doing
something better with a bridge/FET/filter cap arrangement, but I am
reluctant to "improve" something that has worked flawlessly for 4+ years.

Bill.
 
T

Tim Wescott

Jan 1, 1970
0
Tim said:
Anyone have any experience with the Weller WTCPN soldering station and
TC201 iron? I just blew the fuse in the station -- other than chucking
the tip, is there anything else I need to do? Am I screwed?

Where's the actual heating element in these? I assume the switch is in
the tip.

Thanks.
Thanks everyone -- you've figured it out for me faster than I could
have. The switch has gone belly up.

One more thing, though: who carries switches?

Thanks again.
 
J

John Crighton

Jan 1, 1970
0
I have owned the same iron for quite a few years now. I got quite fed up
with fairly constant replacements of the switch assy. Those contacts are
switching 2 amps many times in a working day and burn out on a regular
basis. While you are fixing it, you may want to consider a small
modification which will give the switch a very long life.

Some years ago I rewired the pencil so that the switch controlled a GP triac
mounted in the base assembly. For safety reasons, the triac is controlling
the 24vac feeding the pencil. A small heat sink was required and, from
memory, the element was getting about 21 volts. I did think of doing
something better with a bridge/FET/filter cap arrangement, but I am
reluctant to "improve" something that has worked flawlessly for 4+ years.

Bill.
Hello Bill,
that is a good idea! Thanks for that tip.
Regards,
John Crighton
Sydney
 
G

Guy Macon

Jan 1, 1970
0
Tim said:
Thanks everyone -- you've figured it out for me faster than I could
have. The switch has gone belly up.

One more thing, though: who carries switches?

Here is what i would do;

The people who do extreme case modifications often use aircraft
switches that require you to flip back a cover; this gives
them that "serious hardware" look. If my soldering iron switch
ever goes bad, I will put one of those in just because it's cool.

Then again, I have two outlet strips on my test bench; one for
things that stay on 24/7 and one for things that I turn off when
I leave. Outlet strips are a lot easier to replace than OEM
switches.
 
B

Bill Bailley

Jan 1, 1970
0
"> Thanks everyone -- you've figured it out for me faster than I could
have. The switch has gone belly up.

One more thing, though: who carries switches?

Thanks again.

--

Tim Wescott
Wescott Design Services
http://www.wescottdesign.com

Tim,
You may find that the switch that will no longer deal with 2 amps, will deal
nicely with the few milliamps required to trigger a triac. The switch in my
pencil fell into that category, and is still working well today. A quick
check with the multimeter will give you some idea if this applies to your
switch.

Luck,
Bill.
 
T

Tim Wescott

Jan 1, 1970
0
Bill said:
"> Thanks everyone -- you've figured it out for me faster than I could



Tim,
You may find that the switch that will no longer deal with 2 amps, will deal
nicely with the few milliamps required to trigger a triac. The switch in my
pencil fell into that category, and is still working well today. A quick
check with the multimeter will give you some idea if this applies to your
switch.

Luck,
Bill.
Nope. I checked after reading your other post.
 
T

Tim Wescott

Jan 1, 1970
0
Guy said:
Tim Wescott wrote:




Here is what i would do;

The people who do extreme case modifications often use aircraft
switches that require you to flip back a cover; this gives
them that "serious hardware" look. If my soldering iron switch
ever goes bad, I will put one of those in just because it's cool.

Then again, I have two outlet strips on my test bench; one for
things that stay on 24/7 and one for things that I turn off when
I leave. Outlet strips are a lot easier to replace than OEM
switches.
It's the temperature control switch inside the pencil handle that I need.
 
F

Frank Bemelman

Jan 1, 1970
0
Tim Wescott said:
It's the temperature control switch inside the pencil handle that I need.

Google for WTCP switch or something. While waiting for the new
one, you could take the plastic cover off and sand the contacts,
if that's the problem.

I still don't understand why the fuse blew... if the switch hangs,
the iron just get bloody hot and even hotter than that. I know,
because that happens after sanding the contacts for the second
time ;)
 
T

Tim Wescott

Jan 1, 1970
0
Frank said:
Google for WTCP switch or something. While waiting for the new
one, you could take the plastic cover off and sand the contacts,
if that's the problem.

I still don't understand why the fuse blew... if the switch hangs,
the iron just get bloody hot and even hotter than that. I know,
because that happens after sanding the contacts for the second
time ;)
At the point that I realized I had spent enough time to buy 1-1/2
handles I stopped and ordered a handle -- but I'll try sanding the
contacts when I get into a slack period, and enjoy my nice new handle in
the mean time!

I suspect that something touched that shouldn't and took out the switch
and fuse both. The thing was used when I got it over 10 years ago and
I've been using it off and on since then, so it's not surprising that
odd things should happen.
 
R

Rich Grise

Jan 1, 1970
0
The fuse is fine -- it did it's job. The base now has a natty fuse block
with fuse #3 in it. It appears that the heater is, indeed, bad and I've
ordered heating element #2. If I get time I'll dink with the heater
element per Ross's comments, to see if I can get it going for the next few
days.

Thanks guys. Sphero, if a heater doesn't fix it I'll whine at _you_, OK?

Before you do anything drastic, does the fuse _not_ blow when the cord is
unplugged from the base? That would eliminate some hidden problem in the
base.

Good Luck!
Rich
 
G

Guy Macon

Jan 1, 1970
0
....unless you buy the model with the temperature control and the
digital display. No switch in the handle to go bad, just a
temperature sensor. Of course itvwouldn't be a WTCPN. It would be
a WSD81

BTW, an new switch costs $32.29 here:
http://www.rpelectronics.com/English/Content/Items/SW60.asp
or $28.82 here:
http://www.action-electronics.com/westations.htm#Wtcpt



While looking for the switch, I ran across these gems:

http://www.action-electronics.com/wedesolder.htm

WRS4000
300 WATTS OF POWER!
Self Contained Air
WTA50 Thermal Tweezers
DSV80 De-Solder Pencil-De-Solder Tips
WSP80 Soldering Pencil - Solder Tips
HAP1 Hot Air Pencil
Digital-Microprocessor Controlled
List: $2,399.00


WHP3000 Digital Preheating Plate, 600 W, 120V
Enables electronic assemblies to be preheated from the bottom
The unit slides easily below the WBH3000S PCB holder
The heating plate heats up the component from below to the correct temp.
Equipped with 3 infrared lamps for fast and accurate heat-up
Precise temperature control is achieved with the digital electronics
The unit is equipped with Auto-Off and Standby features
Read and set temperatures are indicated digitally
A RS 232 interface allows control by the WHA3000P Hot Air Station
Temperature can be regulated with the use of an optional external sensor
List.$799.00

If anyone here wishes to buy me a Christmas present...
 
R

Richard H.

Jan 1, 1970
0
Guy said:
If anyone here wishes to buy me a Christmas present...

I've been watching this system for years, and finally had a good reason
to get one. I imagine it also makes a very nice gift... :)
Air pencil: http://www.zeph.com/pencil.html
Air pre-heater: http://www.zeph.com/zt1-dpu.html
Supplies (2000 kit): http://www.zeph.com/lmk_1000.htm
Board holder: http://www.zeph.com/board.htm
Pick tool: http://www.zeph.com/zt3web.htm - handy for 0402 chip caps

It produces great results, and it's kinder on the parts than the toaster
oven method, especially if you add parts incrementally in a proto (or
mount your decoupling caps on the bottom). The pre-heater makes a
*world* of difference when soldering SMT pads on a ground plane.

Check eBay. They're seldom listed, but you could probably get the whole
system for $500.
 
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