Restoring a FOXX FUZZ-WAH

[tedstruk]

Show us a circuit.

Bob

There is a schematic of the board in the thread, above, I drew it, you have to open it to see it....

 

[tedstruk]

Sorry, you're a bit late with your endeavour. Have a look e.g. here.

Not my point. A wiring diagram is a completely different set of documents than a schematic.
It would be helpful to any student, to have some kind of rule of thumb, when they run into a board with a schematic, but no wiring diagram to hook it up.... what would you do? junk it and start over from scratch? that is a lot of work my friend!
So each device has its kudos that work best with it. An inductor when it is powered has a tendency to heat up. A pin that fires a transistor must be able to handle the amount of volts that are applied to it. Large resistors and caps will stop low amperages.

It is still questionable in my mind as to how compatible devices are. One device may use parallel circuits only, and another series only. In the modern world of arduinos and data, there are no compatibility issues, because the micro amperages in digital are not compatible with full amperages in power supplys, and signal is not considered a viable data transport outside of analog circuitry.

I need a rule of thumb to drive my + and - mind...
a crutch if you will, to get me from an analog meter and into the digital realm....

 

[Harald Kapp]

 

[BobK]

What do you expect a "wiring diagram" to show that a schematic does not?

If you are talking about PCB layout, that does come into play in some circuits, but all connections are shown in the schematic.

Bob

 

[tedstruk]

What do you expect a "wiring diagram" to show that a schematic does not?


Bob

Man you are an arduino fan aren't you!
Back in the day, when ISA ruled and headphones were a special mindset, there were these things on all the boards called "PINS". They were there so that you could connect different components like power sources, and switches, or special devices like amps. a wiring diagram is a complete different set of paper, that came with the schematic, that noted any special info on the board, like, "don't hook up an arduino to this pin, because it will underpower the inductor cause feedback blowing your ear drums out" sorry!! just about all boards prior to '69 were acompanied with either a wiring diagram, or a schematic-wiring-block hybrid diagram that explained what to hook up where. There was only one multi-wire connector to the board, and that was the source or power. here see if you can wrap my idea around this antient hoosgow..(pic attached)

 

[Harald Kapp]

A wiring diagram is a completely different set of documents than a schematic.

You contradict yourself with the image in post #25. I'd call that a schematic diagram, too. I get the impression that your 'wiring diagram' is what we'd call a schematic, just on another level, showing boards and/or devices and their interconnections instead of electronic components.

that noted any special info on the board

You're free to annotate any kind of schemtaic diagram. This is used for example to note jumper settings, assembly options etc.

 

[tedstruk]

"any advice I give"

So does Harald know the difference between a wiring diagram and a schematic?

 

[Harald Kapp]

From what yous showed us it is only a matter of detail and I'd use the term schematic diagram in both cases.

 

[tedstruk]

Man you are an arduino fan aren't you!
Back in the day, when ISA ruled and headphones were a special mindset, there were these things on all the boards called "PINS".

A word of note to the viewer of my schemtic of this board....(JR4 fOXX Down Machine)

There are 6 gray circles at the top of the schematic, this is the original location of a noteworthy component...one of the first SMD switches that were ever used commercially.
It was a push button on/off switch that had 6 pins on the bottom of it. The case was grounded, and the switch usually changed the flow of the circuit from 4 of the pins on one end of the switch to the 4 pins on the other end, thus grounding one end, and shutting off the other, or grounding the other and shutting off the opposing end.

It was like a choice of directives. ground one circuit so it works, shut the other one off so it doesn't work. this removed any need for any fancy grounding circuits to handle overload if you turned off one end of a circuit.

Instead of building a circuit that used the same ground as another circuit, you built individual circuits, then grounded them seperately.... preferably at a switch.

A buss was where power was handled.

 

[tedstruk]

In my schematic I didn't wire the switch right......
Ah ha..!!!
I couldn't find a 6 pin switch like the one that was installed, so I am using a sub miniature 6 pin push on switch. The subminitures don't wire the same as the original switch that was on the board, so I have to work this out. I don't know the specs of the original switch either.... Which has me in some kind of doldrum, besides my unknowing and not really understanding what JR4 was attempting!

 

[BobK]

Man you are an arduino fan aren't you!

Huh? Never used an Arduino.

What you posted is a schematic. Here is what a wiring diagram looks like.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wiring_diagram

Bob

 

[tedstruk]

Thanks Bob...!!
Now the reason I am still a noob over this!
First, none of you knew this was actually a Regal RE23 Do-Wah-Diddy rather than a Down Machine. The DoWaDiddy, was also made by fOXX, but sold in the guise of a new company named Regal. And that would account for the extra holes in the box.
After discovering I was trying to wire the wrong treadle, it was fairly easy to figure out.

I have wired it to the best of my limited ability and will test it tomorrow.
If it all works, I will share my wiring diagram so that someone else might not spend countless hours trying to figure it out.

I painted mine with that 14k gold paint, instead of flocking it with blue fuzz.....

I am still looking for a BASS WAH, and the one fOXX made is called the "Down Machine"

 

[tedstruk]

It didn't work- here is another try, but I am getting scared I might fry my amp or something....
wish I had one of those circuit testing softwares....

 

[tedstruk]

I have to ask you intellectuals....

If I don't know what kind of push button switch was installed here, what kind of switch should I use? I am attempting to wire a subminiture switch inplace of the original, but I don't know how the original switch operated, if it was simply a ground on/off,- or a power side by side 3x3- or a grounded 2 way, 4 on or 4 off.

What I am saying is I am not at present--- - knowledgable enough to decifer the switching activities and what they would accomplish.

I was hoping someone could tell me what circuit is the off(volume treadle) and which is the on(wah wah) and how to switch between them using a subminiture instead of the original SMD?

 

[tedstruk]

Mr. Sir Edd posted something that bothered me.

Assuming a DPDT switch was used as the stomp switch in this machine could cause problems because if it was a DPST then the pins on the diagram he provided of the switch, would bridge B-E, and instead of isolating those pins B to the pins A and C and E to the pns D and F. If the entire switch case acts as a ground, (which is usually the case with musical stomp boxes) and the switch just grounded one side, or maybe activated a resistance circuit that impeded one of the circuits (there are some 470m resistors in there that could have been used for impedance), And I install a standard switch type, it could, cause malfunction.

I wondered if there is a way to trace the circuit(s) or if the engineer/tech, of anything electronic is; as my old teach said; completely on their own, and eaches own devices reflect their proper function?

It is easy to see that the board was made with a "capacitor stack" that offers changes in the circuits capacitance with the flip of a switch, which kind of leads me to the believe the designer was, at the very least, following 'the path of least resistance' rule.

If I power the board with a residual voltage, say, 2v as a test bed, I should be able to trace the circuits....

---- On what terminals, would you power the board?

 

[tedstruk]

Using a fOXX fuzzwah schematic, I attached the 9v- to the stem of the output jack. I attached the 9v+ to Pin E on the board. I powered the circuit with 2vpp at the 9v jack + terminal and traced the circuit with my scope. With the switch off, I am getting a +1.25v/-1.55vpp square wave that I can turn down to almost 500mv by moving the treadle. But the switch on just allows the vpp signal through, and it only changes from 1.81v to 1.79v with the treadle movement, 200ths of a volt. The wiring in the diagram attached is the way it is hooked up now.

I forgot to include that I put a jumper back to the input tip from the off position of the switch terminal center pot terminal on the treadle to facilitate a volume treadle..see WAHtrace4a

 

[tedstruk]

I don't believe I've gotten this far....
I really think in a few years it might work if I keep plugging things in here and there....

 

[tedstruk]

With this wiring, and a 2vpp tracer from my scope, I get a great volume change with the pedal. I am not getting any WAH. I have traced the circuit so much I am having dreams about it. What am I doing wrong?

 

[tedstruk]

I used this schematic to decifer the wiring to the various controls.

I maybe made a few mistakes?

Is there any way to be sure of the circuits, before I power it and maybe fry something?

 

[(*steve*)]

If I don't know what kind of push button switch was installed here, what kind of switch should I use? I am attempting to wire a subminiture switch inplace of the original, but I don't know how the original switch operated, if it was simply a ground on/off,- or a power side by side 3x3- or a grounded 2 way, 4 on or 4 off.

You've probably noticed that nobody is replying to you.

I find your questions to be far too hard to understand, and I perceive your understanding to be poor. Added to that, you seem to move from one problem to another without waiting to solve the first.

From my perspective, I feel I would have to expend an awful lot of effort to try to help you. I'm not confident that I could get the information needed to help you, or that you would stay on track.

I'm not sure why others have dropped off this thread, their reasons may be different.