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Repairing Lightning Damaged Tv's

C

CJ

Jan 1, 1970
0
I have no knowledge about repairing televisions, so I thought I'd ask
here, All 3 of my tv's have been damaged by lightning , 2 of them wont
even power up and the other one is in black and white now(is a color
tv). Just wondering what I could do to repair my tv's? Thanks
 
S

sofie

Jan 1, 1970
0
CJ:
Other than suggesting that you enroll in a consumer electronics repair
course I would think that you would be best advised to take your televisions
to a qualified technician with the proper training, necessary test equipment
and replacement parts. This is not a job for the inexperienced
novice...... not only is the circuitry complex but a television is one of
the more dangerous electronic devices in your home.
 
M

Matt J. McCullar

Jan 1, 1970
0
Oog. Sorry to hear about that... did all of them get damaged at once? If
you live in an area frequented by lightning, the best thing to do is unplug
the sets in advance. That's the best surge protection there is, and it's
free.

Lightning can damage/destroy all manner of things in a set, and even if you
do manage to find and replace the troublesome components, there's no
guarantee that something else inside that was only weakened might not go out
later. It's just not worth it.

If you're insured, you might consider having a qualified TV technician
verify the damage and have your insurance company get you some new sets.
 
CJ said:
I have no knowledge about repairing televisions, so I thought I'd ask
here, All 3 of my tv's have been damaged by lightning , 2 of them wont
even power up and the other one is in black and white now(is a color
tv). Just wondering what I could do to repair my tv's? Thanks

Like others have said, if you do not have the knowledge, tools and
skill for repairing TVs, you would do well to take it to those who have.
Having said that, a lightning strike on an electronic device could end
up being a career choice for whomever decides to repair it. If you are
puzzled by what I meant in the last sentence, you won't be should you
attempt to repair them.
 
L

Leonard Caillouet

Jan 1, 1970
0
Like others have said, if you do not have the knowledge, tools and
skill for repairing TVs, you would do well to take it to those who have.
Having said that, a lightning strike on an electronic device could end
up being a career choice for whomever decides to repair it. If you are
puzzled by what I meant in the last sentence, you won't be should you
attempt to repair them.

It could just as easily be a blown fuse and a shorted diode in the bridge.
We fix a lot more of them in a few minutes than get scrapped for excessive
damage. Here in North Florida we see lots of lightning damage, more than in
most parts of the country. Certainly many get damaged severly, but it is
much more common to have minor damage in the PS.

Leonard
 
A

Asimov

Jan 1, 1970
0
"CJ" bravely wrote to "All" (12 Jun 04 21:32:33)
--- on the heady topic of "Repairing Lightning Damaged Tv's"

Typically, lightning damage tends to be limited to the antenna
connection, tuner, and of course the AC line, ergo the power supply
circuits. However, high voltage electricity can arc anywhere that
forms the physically shortest path and thus damage can be done just
about anywhere in a circuit.

Your 2 tv's that won't power up may be the easiest to repair because
the power supply may have stopped the lightning surge before it got
any further into the circuit. The tv with colour missing may just be
more the difficult one to fix.

However, with lightning one can never really say for sure because even
if a tv seems to function properly after being repaired it may fail
again within a day, week, or month. Insurance companies know this and
tend to write off equipment which is hit by lightning right off.

What happens is that the lightning surge tends to stress semiconductor
junctions by charging them beyond their rated voltage and causes them
to breakdown. This breakdown current tends to cause localized
ionization of the semiconductor material and results in either a
permanent short circuit or a latent leakage path. The shorted
junctions will of course cause an obvious malfunction. However, the
leakage paths will typically worsen over time until they enventually
short out too causing a new failure.

For these reasons it makes more economical sense to dump a tv that was
struck by lightning surge and buy a new one, basically to avoid the
hassle. But insurance companies are usually good in paying for this,
no?

A*s*i*m*o*v


CJ> From: [email protected] (CJ)

CJ> I have no knowledge about repairing televisions, so I thought I'd ask
CJ> here, All 3 of my tv's have been damaged by lightning , 2 of them wont
CJ> even power up and the other one is in black and white now(is a color
CJ> tv). Just wondering what I could do to repair my tv's? Thanks


.... Batteries not included.
 
L

LASERandDVDfan

Jan 1, 1970
0
Oog. Sorry to hear about that... did all of them get damaged at once? If
you live in an area frequented by lightning, the best thing to do is unplug
the sets in advance. That's the best surge protection there is, and it's
free.

It should be noted that power surge suppressors are designed to suppress
unsustained power spikes only. They are completely useless at protecting
equipment from direct and indirect lightning hits due to the sheer amount of
energy that a lightning bolt has. Lightning will exceed the joule rating of
even the best surge suppressor. The advice to unplug equipment from electrical
outlets and telephone connections during a lightning storm, as advised by Mr.
McCullar, is the best way to prevent lightning damage.

As for the original poster, there isn't much that can be done to repair
lightning damaged equipment if you don't have the training, experience,
appropriate service documentation, and the repair equipment. As advised
before, it is recommended that the damaged sets be taken to a repair
professional. - Reinhart
 
R

Ricky Eck

Jan 1, 1970
0
Thank You! Very well put. I have been explaining this to people for a long
time, but no one will believe me. I have for years, unplugged my computer
with any sign of lightning, even if I don't see any, and I know a storm is
moving in, I will unplug it. Phone cord and all! And another point on it
to is, even if the storms are miles away, you can still get a surge that can
damage the device. It don't take much. I have seen it many times when I
repaired electronics a long time ago. People need to realize that these
devices are very sensitive to electrical problems in the home, including
storms. I usually tell people that a surge protector is just good enough to
get the device shut down, in the even that a sudden storm comes up. They
are also good for the everyday use, to insure that you are protected. Don't
get me wrong. I am not saying that you should not use one on any electrical
device, but you should not rely on it during a storm or any type of an
unsure power situation.

Rick

It should be noted that power surge suppressors are designed to suppress
unsustained power spikes only. They are completely useless at protecting
equipment from direct and indirect lightning hits due to the sheer amount of
energy that a lightning bolt has. Lightning will exceed the joule rating of
even the best surge suppressor. The advice to unplug equipment from electrical
outlets and telephone connections during a lightning storm, as advised by Mr.
McCullar, is the best way to prevent lightning damage.
- Reinhart
 
M

Mistress

Jan 1, 1970
0
I have no knowledge about repairing televisions, so I thought I'd ask
here, All 3 of my tv's have been damaged by lightning , 2 of them wont
even power up and the other one is in black and white now(is a color
tv). Just wondering what I could do to repair my tv's? Thanks


My experience is similar to Leonard's. (I had a shop for 15 years).

Be aware that these are generalizations.

If the fuse was blown AND its glass was really blackened, most often I
found one diode in the diode bridge shorted.

If the fuse was blown and the glass was clear, it could be anything. Not
good news.
 
W

w_tom

Jan 1, 1970
0
The sheer amount of energy from a direct lightning strike is
no where near the levels that myths portray. It is normal and
usual to protect electronics from direct strikes without
damage. Empire State Building would have 25 direct strikes to
TV and FM radio equipment every year without damage. WTC was
40 times per year. The concept were well proven since the
1930s and yet still little understood by many in the 2000s.

We still build new buildings as if the transistor did not
exist. Earthing - and not some overhyped plug-in protectors -
is protection. How earthing is installed and how incoming
utilities connect to earthing defines effectiveness of
protection. Since most homes directly connect appliances to
lines highest on poles, then that is a direct lightning strike
- if the incoming transient is not earthed before entering the
building. Without upgraded earth ground and 'whole house'
protector, then the homeowner is only inviting damage to occur
when asleep, when not home, or when appliance is off. Even
worse, the plug-in protector can provide a direct strike with
more destructive paths through the appliance. Damage occurs
because lightning finds earth ground, destructively, through
the appliance.

A long list of other appliances that cannot be protected by
unplugging - GFCI in kitchen and bathroom, dimmer switches,
clock radio, dishwasher, alarm system, smoke detectors,
microwave oven, portable phone base station, etc. What
protects all them?

Some comments from those who first learned effective
protection and are professionals in this industry:
http://www.harvardrepeater.org/news/lightning.html
Well I assert, from personal and broadcast experience spanning
30 years, that you can design a system that will handle
*direct lightning strikes* on a routine basis. It takes some
planning and careful layout, but it's not hard, nor is it
overly expensive. At WXIA-TV, my other job, we take direct
lightning strikes nearly every time there's a thunderstorm.
Our downtime from such strikes is almost non-existant. The
last time we went down from a strike, it was due to a strike
on the power company's lines knocking *them* out, ...
Since my disasterous strike, I've been campaigning vigorously
to educate amateurs that you *can* avoid damage from direct
strikes. The belief that there's no protection from direct
strike damage is *myth*. ...
The keys to effective lightning protection are surprisingly
simple, and surprisingly less than obvious. Of course you
*must* have a single point ground system that eliminates all
ground loops. And you must present a low *impedance* path for
the energy to go. That's most generally a low *inductance*
path rather than just a low ohm DC path.

http://www.telebyteusa.com/primer/ch6.htm
See Section 6.4:
Conceptually, lightning protection devices are switches to
ground. Once a threatening surge is detected, a lightning
protection device grounds the incoming signal connection
point of the equipment being protected. Thus, redirecting
the threatening surge on a path-of-least resistance
(impedance) to ground where it is absorbed.
http://www.ipclp.com/html/aud_ho_faq.html
A properly installed lightning protection system intercepts
the lightning bolt between cloud and earth and harmlessly
conducts it to ground without damage.
Yes, in addition to the lightning protection system consisting
of air terminals, conductor cables, clamps, fasteners, 10 foot
grounds, etc., a secondary lightning suppressor is installed
on your electric service entrance panel to prevent current
fluctuations (called lightning surges) during a thunderstorm.

The 'whole house' protector can be purchased even in Home
Depot for less than $50. That is about $1 per protected
appliance for effective protection. Compare that to $10 or
$50 for the ineffective plug-in protector that also does not
claim to protect from the typically destructive surge. Notice
the tens of times more money for protectors that don't even
claim to protect. Notice the one component always required in
every direct strike protection system: single point earth
ground. Since ineffective and grossly overpriced plug-in
protectors don't even claim to provide effective protection,
then ineffective protectors also avoid discussing the most
critical part of a protection system - the single point earth
ground.

No earth ground means no effective protection.

BTW if indirect strikes are so destructive, then any nearby
strike would destroy the so sensitive RF transistor on every
car and handheld radio. In reality, the nearby strike is
really a direct strike. Just that the path of electricity was
not fully understood. Why might lightning strike that tree?
Because it is a path to better conductive earth using buried
utilities entering the house, through household appliances,
to earth ground on other side of building. Again, protection
is about earthing which too many fail to learn - and then
assume no protection is possible.

Protection from the direct strike is so routine since before
WWII that damage from lightning is now considered a human
failure. Does your telco disconnect their $multi-million
switching computer from overhead wires all over town during
every thunderstorm? Of course not. Effective protection has
been that well understood since before WWII. Even at the
telco switching computer: surge protector is only as effective
as its earth ground.

Early 1900 ham radio operators would disconnect their
antenna, put the antenna lead inside a mason jar, and still
suffer damage. Damage stopped when that antenna lead was
earthed. Protection only as effective as the earth ground.
Even a human disconnecting appliance is less reliable.
 
L

LASERandDVDfan

Jan 1, 1970
0
The sheer amount of energy from a direct lightning strike is
no where near the levels that myths portray. It is normal and
usual to protect electronics from direct strikes without
damage.

Thanks to a little thing called the lightning rod invented well before the 20th
Century. Grounding, or earthing as you've put it, is a simple way of directing
lightning to ground and safely away from anything that could be damaged as you
already know. Without grounding, as you've said, the lightning would simply
find its path to ground through the electronics.

The antenna towers may also double as lightning rods that provide a path to
ground to protect not only the transmission equipment, but the entire building
as well.

But my comment is merely pointing out the misconception by the general public
that home power surge suppressors are effective against lightning strikes.
They are not effective against that and anyone trusting a surge suppressor over
effective grounding, as you've pointed out and I never mentioned, or
disconnection of devices from the mains deserves to get their equipment damaged
after a storm. - Reinhart
 
A

Asimov

Jan 1, 1970
0
"Ricky Eck" bravely wrote to "All" (14 Jun 04 02:05:25)
--- on the heady topic of "Re: Repairing Lightning Damaged Tv's"

RE> From: "Ricky Eck" <[email protected]>
RE> [,,,]
RE> People need to realize that these devices are very sensitive to
RE> electrical problems in the home, including storms. I usually tell
RE> people that a surge protector is just good enough to get the device
RE> shut down, in the even that a sudden storm comes up. They are also
RE> good for the everyday use, to insure that you are protected. Don't get
RE> me wrong. I am not saying that you should not use one on any
RE> electrical device, but you should not rely on it during a storm or any
RE> type of an unsure power situation.

Some years ago we had a rash of storms with a number of direct hits in
the neighborhood. One home across the street had a hit on their pole
pig and everything electric in the home was destroyed. In the days
that followed the electric utility made repairs and installed fat
hockey puck size arrestors between the distribution line and ground on
every pole pig in the neighborhood. How effective is their protection
with a direct lightning strike? Should they be replaced after a hit?

A*s*i*m*o*v

.... Over a hundred billion electrons were used in crafting this tagline.
 
R

Ricky Eck

Jan 1, 1970
0
Actually those are not as uncommon as some people think. Line "Surge
Protectors" from the electric company can be purchased. It is supposed to
work better then ones in your home. This is according to the electric
company. However, as I stated before, I would be skeptical on it. I have
not researched it too much, and I don't know if they come with a guarantee
of your equipment if something did fail. I would think that there is
someone out there that works for the power company, that can give us some
info on these protectors. I too would be curious if they are damaged after
a surge of lightning. I would also like to find out if they protect against
the imperfections in the electrical grids. Meaning when the power changes
in voltages.

I still stick to my methods of unplugging said devices when storms approach.
Remember that what we have here are man made devices, and said man made
devices, is why we have this message group. Mainly because they easily
break. And said man made devices is what keeps many of those on this board,
in business. So, if you want to support your fellow repairman, keep 'em
plugged in..:) I am sure there will be a lot of happy repairman out there.
Just remember, if you do need to take it to a repairman, take it to a small
business man, not a major chain. The major shop's money just ends up in
some rich man's hands. Money spent at your local business man's shop, will
help feed his family.

Oh, to answer your "?"...:) I don't know. Maybe there is an electrician
with the power company that can answer this "?".
 
W

w_tom

Jan 1, 1970
0
The protector is not protection. A protector is only a
temporary connection from incoming wire to protection - earth
ground. Ineffective plug-in protector must get the naive to
misunderstand. To use word association to assume a protector
and protection are same thing. Protector is only effective
when it connects 'less than 10 foot' to protection - earth
ground. No earth ground, then no effective protection.

The 'whole house' protector is only called secondary
protection.
Primary protection is provided by AC electric utility. A
homeowner is advised to make a visual inspection of that
utility provided protection. Examples of missing primary
protection are demonstrated:
http://www.tvtower.com/fpl.html
And rules for earthing:
http://www.tvtower.com/grounding_and_bonding.html

Protection being only as effective as the earth ground.
Protector only required when the incoming utility cannot be
hardwired directly to earth. Protector only connects incoming
wire to earth ground during a destructive transient.
 
W

w_tom

Jan 1, 1970
0
How often does your 120 VAC exceed 330 volts? 330 volts is
a number even printed on plug-in protector boxes. If AC line
imperfections were occurring that high with any frequency,
then you were replacing every dimmer switch, clock radio, AC
powered smoke detector, and major household appliances
frequently. Those 330 volt transients typically don't exist
from the utility. Therefore the protector remains inert -
does nothing - sees no such imperfections.

AC line imperfections are less voltage. Expensive
electronic equipment contains internal protection that makes
'imperfections' even up to 600 volts irrelevant. Appliances
already contain internal protection. Protection that assumes
the major and destructive transients will be earthed before
entering a building.

The transient that does exist typically once every eight
years is a common mode transient on AC electric that 1)
occurs quickly (in microseconds), 2) requires a complete
circuit to earth ground in order to do appliance damage (which
is why phone appliances are so often damaged), and 3) that a
plug-in protector does not even claim to protect from.

Protectors are effective when they make the 'less than 10
foot' connection to earth ground. Called 'whole house' type
protectors. That is what a utility installed protector does
IF your building has been wired to post 1990 code requirements
for earthing. A utility typically does not even check that
your earthing exists. Household earthing being the
homeowner's responsibility; not utilities. No earth ground
means no effective protection even from that utility provided
protector that typically costs a very expensive $5 per month.

Of course utilities can charge so much because so many
homeowners spend much more money on ineffective plug-in
protectors. That utility provided protector costs many times
less per protected appliance and does more (assuming the post
1990 earthing exists). But the best protection for the money
is a homeowner installed 'whole house' protector installed in
breaker box and with the necessary earthing connections. Home
Depot even sells the Intermatic IG1240RC. Many others are
available.

Unplugging is unreliable. The human is typically available
and awake less than 1/3rd of each day. But effective 'whole
house' protection means no need to unplug; needs no unreliable
human to provide protection. 'Whole house' protector is
always there; doing what existing internal appliance
protection requires to not be overwhelmed.

Bottom line: a protector is only as effective as its earth
ground. Something that plug-in protectors fear you might
learn and avoid mentioning.
 
S

Sunny

Jan 1, 1970
0
w_tom said:
How often does your 120 VAC exceed 330 volts? 330 volts is
a number even printed on plug-in protector boxes. If AC line
imperfections were occurring that high with any frequency,
then you were replacing every dimmer switch, clock radio, AC
powered smoke detector, and major household appliances
frequently. Those 330 volt transients typically don't exist
from the utility. Therefore the protector remains inert -
does nothing - sees no such imperfections.

AC line imperfections are less voltage. Expensive
electronic equipment contains internal protection that makes
'imperfections' even up to 600 volts irrelevant. Appliances
already contain internal protection. Protection that assumes
the major and destructive transients will be earthed before
entering a building.

The transient that does exist typically once every eight
years is a common mode transient on AC electric that 1)
occurs quickly (in microseconds), 2) requires a complete
circuit to earth ground in order to do appliance damage (which
is why phone appliances are so often damaged), and 3) that a
plug-in protector does not even claim to protect from.

Protectors are effective when they make the 'less than 10
foot' connection to earth ground. Called 'whole house' type
protectors. That is what a utility installed protector does
IF your building has been wired to post 1990 code requirements
for earthing. A utility typically does not even check that
your earthing exists. Household earthing being the
homeowner's responsibility; not utilities. No earth ground
means no effective protection even from that utility provided
protector that typically costs a very expensive $5 per month.

Of course utilities can charge so much because so many
homeowners spend much more money on ineffective plug-in
protectors. That utility provided protector costs many times
less per protected appliance and does more (assuming the post
1990 earthing exists). But the best protection for the money
is a homeowner installed 'whole house' protector installed in
breaker box and with the necessary earthing connections. Home
Depot even sells the Intermatic IG1240RC. Many others are
available.

Unplugging is unreliable. The human is typically available
and awake less than 1/3rd of each day. But effective 'whole
house' protection means no need to unplug; needs no unreliable
human to provide protection. 'Whole house' protector is
always there; doing what existing internal appliance
protection requires to not be overwhelmed.

Unplugging is unreliable even when the human is available and paying
attention. I recently lost an expensive stereo and TV due to a direct
hit about 20 feet from my cottage. The equipment was unplugged prior to
the strike, but I didn't think to disconnect the speaker cables and
antenna...

An extension cord lying disconnected on the ground outside writhed like
a snake and now has neat holes burnt through the outer casing at exactly
27" intervals.

I doubt protection is possible under those circumstances - but I did
catch 3 nice sized Northern Pike for dinner with my bare hands as they
floated past the dock, stunned :)
 
W

w_tom

Jan 1, 1970
0
Protection is always possible. Ham radio operators in the
early 1900s would suffer damage. They disconnected the
antenna. Still suffered damage. They placed antenna lead
into a mason jar. Still suffered damage. They earthing the
incoming antenna wire. Damage stopped happening.

Damage occurs whenever the direct strike finds a path to
earth ground inside building via the appliance. Incoming on
antenna wire. Outgoing via speaker wires to earth ground via
concrete floor or by being draped on adjacent baseboard heat.
Your situation may vary.

But this we have always understood. Protection works when
all incoming wires are earthed to a single point ground. That
means all utility wires must enter building at same location.
That means the single point earth ground must be the best
earthing for that building.

Your phone already makes that earthing connection using a
'whole house' protector inside the premise interface box.
Phone cannot work if earthed directly. So a protector makes
the temporary earthing connection; earthing wire only during a
surge. Your cable needs no protector. But cable needs
connection to protection. Cable connects directly to the
single point earth ground before entering building to earth
incoming transients.

Earthing is why effective protection works. The single
point earth ground. And yet 30 years after the transistor is
ubiquitous, we still don't build new buildings as if the
transistor exists.

AC electric routinely enters without connection to earth
ground. Again, this utility requires a 'whole house'
protector such as from Home Depot (Intermatic IG1240RC). And
- of course - your building's single point earth ground may
not yet exist. Older buildings often had no single point
ground. The building owner may need to upgrade or exceed
earthing requirements of the current National Electrical Code.

No earth ground means no effective protection. The naive
assume nothing can protect from lightning even though it is
done annually in virtually every town. Remember the lessons
from early ham radio operators. Earthing is still necessary
to avoid damage. Protection is only as effective as its earth
ground.
 
S

Sunny

Jan 1, 1970
0
w_tom said:
Protection is always possible. Ham radio operators in the
early 1900s would suffer damage. They disconnected the
antenna. Still suffered damage. They placed antenna lead
into a mason jar. Still suffered damage. They earthing the
incoming antenna wire. Damage stopped happening.

Damage occurs whenever the direct strike finds a path to
earth ground inside building via the appliance. Incoming on
antenna wire. Outgoing via speaker wires to earth ground via
concrete floor or by being draped on adjacent baseboard heat.
Your situation may vary.

I personally installed the electric service at my cottage 20 years ago,
in accordance with all Canadian electrical codes in effect at the time.
IIRC, earthing involved banging two 8' rods into the ground several feet
apart and connecting them to the neutral bus-bar inside the fuse panel,
and also running a cable from the same bus-bar to the cold water
plumbing. The phone company installed the phone service, which enters
the building beside the electric meter, but I don't know if/how they
effected earthing. The only other incoming wire is from the TV antenna,
on the opposite side of the building, which currently has no earthing.

I would be greatful if you could explain, in laymans terms, what further
steps I could take to protect my cottage electrical equipment from
lightning strikes - since unplugging doesn't work.

I have no reason to doubt your assertion that protection is always
possible, but I am having some difficulty translating your advice into
practice.

Thanks,

Sunny
 
W

w_tom

Jan 1, 1970
0
Protection starts with the underlying geology. Best is a
monolithic soil of clay or loam that is damp. Worst is sand
or gravel. Also bad would be two different types of soil
where the more electrically conductive vein is far from the
single point ground. Example: they had a bathroom wall struck
twice by lightning. They installed lightning rods. The
bathroom wall was struck a third time. Lightning rods were
earthed in sand. Bathroom plumbing made a better connection
to deeper limestone. One poster in the Perennes once said he
had to sink a 150 foot ground rod to get through glacier
tailings and into more conductive soil. A rather extreme
example that demonstrates the point.

Establish the single point earth ground. For most, two
ground rods driven well below the frost line and separated by
a distance equivalent to their length is sufficient (Rods
closer tend to act as if they were the same rod). Idea is to
make this the best electrical ground on the property.

All incoming utilities first connect to this single point
ground either by direct wire connection or via a surge
protector. Unfortunately, your antenna violates the
principle. But there are alternative solutions. Three
examples - the bad, ugly, and good (left to right) - are
provided in figure 2. Concept demonstrated in figure 1. Halo
ground that connects your earth grounds together. This could
be a buried bare 4 AWG ground wire that interconnects AC
electric ground to TV antenna ground. That buried bare wire
makes all grounds equipotential as well as enhances the
connection of earth ground to earth:
http://www.cinergy.com/surge/ttip08.htm

A US government publication further discusses the single
point principle:

http://www.pueblo.gsa.gov/cic_text/housing/surge/contractors.htm

Equipotential means earth beneath cottage appears to be the
same voltage no matter how massive the direct strike. We can
install a great earth ground. But that may not be
sufficient. So we surround the house with a halo ground or
Ufer ground to also make earth beneath building equipotential.
Homes built to contain transistors have a halo or Ufer ground
installed when footing are pours - plans for good earthing
must be started that early. This principle avoids
complications created by varying earths. A complication that
most homes new not worry about. But a halo or Ufer ground
should be installed in all new construction because it is so
cheap and so effective.

Now that we have established a good earth ground, we are now
ready to make connection to that ground. Every wire entering
the building must connect that that single point ground.
Ground wire connection (ie from neutral bus bar) must be
short, direct, and independent. IOW (short) it must be less
than ten feet. It (direct) must have no sharp bends; no
splices. (Even 90 turns and lead solder joints on copper water
pipes violate good connection requirements). It (independent)
must be separated from all other non-earthing wires and must
not connect to any other earthing wire until they all meet at
the single point ground.

Idea is to make that earthing wire low impedance; not just
low resistance. For example, 90 degree bends could add a
mircohenries to wire inductance. For earthing, that would
result in a substantial increase in wire impedance.

Using numbers: that earthing wire might have less than .1
ohms resistance. But it might also have as much as 4 ohms
impedance. Any increase in earthing wire impedance means a
surge may seek other and destructive paths to earth ground
inside the building. An earthing wire from bus bar straight
through foundation to a point just above soil would be
superior to an earth ground that routes up over top of
foundation (through 2x10 or rim board) and back down to earth.

Two other AC electric wires have also entered the building
and cannot be earthed - also called hot wires. These are the
most common source of surge damage especially to phone
appliances that use AC electric - answering machine, computer
modem, portable phone base station. The 'whole house'
protector must connect from each wire to that bus bar. One
minimally sized example sold in Home Depot is Intermatic
IG1240RC. Others have been listed in newsgroup misc.rural as
"telephone wire/lightning strikes" on 30 Sept 2003:
http://tinyurl.com/q6g6

A 'whole house' protector for residential service should be
at minimum 1000 joules and 50,000 amps. Some, such as GE's
THQLSurge (if I have remembered the name correctly) that is
also sold in Lowes, is undersized and overpriced. Square D
makes one protector that is undersized AND does not even
provide joules in its specs. But in that list is another
Square D product that is well designed - more than meets
minimum requirements.

Telco installs a 'whole house' protector that meets US
National Electrical Code requirements:
From Article 800.30A:
A listed primary protector shall be provided on each circuit
run partly or entirely in aerial wire or aerial cable not
confined within the block containing the building served so
as to be exposed to accidental contact with electric light or
power conductor operating at over 300 volts to ground. In
addition, where there exists a lightning exposure, each
interbuilding circuit on a premise shall be protected by a
listed primary protector at each end of the interbuilding
circuit.

Article 800.30B Location.
The primary protector shall be located in, on, or immediately
adjacent to the structure or building served and as close as
practical to the point of entrance.

Article 800.31
The primary protector shall consist of an arrester connected
between each line conducor and ground in an appropriate
mounting. Primary protector terminals shall be marked to
indicate line and ground as applicable.

NID that contains telephone 'whole house' protector is:
http://www.alarmsuperstore.com/bw/bw connectors.htm or
http://www.bass-home.com/gotoproduct.cfm?item=91598

A 14 AWG wire connects from that box to the single point
ground. Again, it should meet these criteria rather than look
neat: be short, direct, and independent. Too many telco
installers want to square off the wire or neatly ty-wrap a
ground wire to other cables. Wrong. That 14 AWG (more often
is 12 AWG) wire must run independently and directly to the
same single point ground used by AC electric. Both grounds
meet at the earthing rod - the single point ground.

Every incoming wire - all three AC electric, both telephone
wires, and shield of any incoming coax cable from satellite
dish - are earthed to same earth ground. As noted earlier,
that antenna will require special attention. Now lets discuss
induced transients.

Lightning strikes the TV antenna seeking earth ground. Path
will be destructive via household wires. And not necessary
just through TV and AC electric to earth ground. That antenna
wire may be bundled with other wires. Therefore that antenna
wire induces transients on other wires or may even arc into
those other wires.

Same problem is also created by plug-in protectors. Lets
say a plug-in protector is earthing the transient. IOW it is
shunting a transient into the AC electric safety ground wire.
But that safety ground wire is bundled with other wires. Now
a transient is induced onto those other wires. Just another
example of why plug-in protectors are not effective and can
even contribute to surge damage.

Idea is to earth a transient before it can enter the
building. Not just earth anywhere, but earth less than 10
feet to a single point. Campers demonstrate the principle.
They were sleeping nearby a tree that was struck. Lightning
strikes tree to obtain earth borne charges some kilometers
beyond those boys. Some were sleeping perpendicular to that
tree and were not hurt. Any boy who was sleeping pointed
towards that tree had electricity rise up into his feet, pass
through his body, then exit via his head. Body is more
conductive than earth. Lightning will find every conductive
path to those earth borne charges some kilometers away. This
is also why multiple earth grounds on a building can cause
lightning to find the other earth ground, destructively, via
the house.

When lightning is striking, stand with both feet together -
the single point ground. Building uses same concept to not
have appliances damaged.

Incoming transients also applies to buried wires. This
industry professional (another source of protectors)
demonstrates two structures - each with their own single point
earth ground AND both single point grounds interconnected.
Buried phone line is also carrying a destructive transient.
Phone line is earthed at building's earth ground before
entering because even buried wires carry destructive
transients:

http://www.erico.com/public/library/fep/technotes/tncr002.pdf

'Whole house' protectors are only secondary protection.
Primary protection is provided by the utility at transformer.
But that primary protector may need be inspected. Some
pictures of what to look for:
http://www.tvtower.com/fpl.html
And rules for earthing:
http://www.tvtower.com/grounding_and_bonding.html

Protectors are only a simple science of protection. The
art is in the earthing. More about earthing was discussed
previously in two threads in the newsgroup misc.rural:
Storm and Lightning damage in the country 28 Jul 2002
Lightning Nightmares!! 10 Aug 2002
http://tinyurl.com/ghgv and http://tinyurl.com/ghgm

Should you wish to learn more, Polyphaser (another
manufacturer of 'real world' protectors) provides application
notes such as this one about single point ground:
http://www.polyphaser.com/ppc_PEN1002.asp
and others:
http://www.polyphaser.com/ppc_technical.asp
http://www.polyphaser.com/ppc_pen_home.asp

Additional information in some MTL Surge Technology app notes
at:
http://www.mtlsurgetechnologies.com/downloads/tans/index.htm

Bottom line is this: a surge protector is not protection. A
surge protector is only as effective as its earth ground.
Notice no technical references to companies that sell
ineffective protection such as APC, Panamax, and Tripplite -
and other plug-in manufacturers so often hyped by myth. What
do they avidly avoid discussing to sell their ineffective
products? Earth ground. No earth ground means no effective
protection.
 
S

Sunny

Jan 1, 1970
0
Your incredibly comprehensive and useful reply is very much appreciated!

Thanks,

Sunny
 
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