PCB MKL90W-02-C1 / 0500-0515-2180

Discussion in 'PCB Layout, Design and Manufacture' started by Hallnbass, Jul 29, 2018.

  1. Hallnbass

    Hallnbass

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    Hi everyone this one is pretty obvious what the issue is but am wondering what the component is that burnt up. I found the new board online for around $50. I am wanting to try and fix it myself but ran in to the issue of finding the schematics for the board. In the photo I am trying to find out what the green what looks to be a capacitor ratings are. Any help would be appreciated.
     

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    Hallnbass, Jul 29, 2018
    #1
  2. Hallnbass

    Alec_t

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    Welcome to EP!
    It may be a surge limiter rather than a capacitor. What are the board markings underneath it?
     
    Alec_t, Jul 29, 2018
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  3. Hallnbass

    Hallnbass

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    Thanks for the quick reply!! I can’t see any makings because it has burned the board. The photo I uploaded before is the best I could find online. And I think you are right about the surge limiter. I will keep looking for something better.
     
    Hallnbass, Jul 29, 2018
    #3
  4. Hallnbass

    73's de Edd

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    Sir Hallnbass . . . . .

    Testing . . .Testing . . 1 2 3 . . . .Testing . . . .
    Why fo' you do be makin' it mo' harder fo' us . . . by not initially be tellin' us that it be the power supply 'potion fo' a Viz-ee-ooo sound bar system. (WHEEEEEEEW . . . thats being my Eeeeee-bonics practice session for the month . . . 'lest I be loosin' my prooooo-ficiency)

    If you additionally had supplied an all encompassing closeup of the foil side of the bord, for evaluating the developed wiring routing, I suspect it might have revealed this path shown below . . . .

    With the OPTION of an across the line varistor, having NOT not being taken / installed down in the empty MOV-1 area, seems like the carbonized part would have been a series installed, in line NTC type of surgistor / thermistor.

    Also check to see if the rectangular black cased F1 line fuse is assuredly being totally blown open circuit now.

    The onliest way I can see the degree of damage inflicted was the taking on of a 4 billion volt lightning strike to the power line service to the house, towards the house side.
    OR . . . . if the black cased 4 full wave bridge rectifier diodes are all dead shorted , however, I can't see the damage inflicted upon the varistor components blackened area, before the MINIMUM time required for the 3.15 ampere F1 to have open circuited itself.
    OR . . . . YELLOW block safety capacitor is being dead shorted.

    Give us a foil path closeup and hopefully, then all will be answered . . . about the unit being a series inserted thermistor aspect.

    ILLUSTRATIONAL BLOWUP:

    [​IMG]

    73's de Edd
    .....
     
    73's de Edd, Jul 29, 2018
    #4
  5. Hallnbass

    dave9

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    NTC (negative temperature coefficient) thermistor.
     
    dave9, Jul 29, 2018
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  6. Hallnbass

    Alec_t

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    Maybe it's a camera artifact, but it looks as though the left-most coil of that 4-coil filter LF2 has a fried part at the top?
     
    Alec_t, Jul 29, 2018
    #6
  7. Hallnbass

    Hallnbass

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    Sorry for the lack of information provided I am new to this site. Yes it is for a Vizio sound bar model s4251w-b4. As far as it burning out not exactly sure what happened. I have been using the thing for years now but it decided to burn out. I had it connected to a surge protector 6 line plug with my Xbox and TV also plugged in. The sound bar was the only one to take damage so not sure how it happened. Attached is the photo requested and thanks for the input.
     

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    Hallnbass, Jul 30, 2018
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  8. Hallnbass

    Hallnbass

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    It looks like it was just some glue I will try to test it out when I am at work in the morning where all my tools are.
     
    Hallnbass, Jul 30, 2018
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  9. Hallnbass

    73's de Edd

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    Sir Hallnbass . . . . .

    The PCB board scorch /burn around the component took some time to occur, with slight scorching developing over years of use.
    If a lightning hit was involved it should only be related to popping other components , like the cap mentioned plus the four diodes or the POWER semi mounted to the large heat sink at the center of the board.
    Looking at Vizios uses of thermistors, in their other power supplies designs , equivalent to your units power needs, it looks like they zeroed in on a 2.5 ohm unit at a max peak 6A rating.
    This unit referenced below equates with that spec which initializes at being at a 120 ohm resistance , when stone cold, power passage and device warmup temperature then slides that on down to a 2.5 ohm resistance at a 20% load factor and even further down to as low as 0.15 ohms at 50% loading.
    It has a larger pellet /slug element and should run cooler than your original did.

    https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Ametherm/SL15-2R506?qs=PVyXUKBeRH0GHp90LRoCjQ==

    And here is the Delay Bel Fuse unit . . . . .

    https://www.mouser.com/Bel/Circuit-...eads-Through-Hole/_/N-ba8hh?P=1yuylg1Z1z0x70w


    After you have weeded out and replaced all of the bad components be SURE to use a 60 watt incandescent lamp in series with the AC line or in place of the fuse, on your initial trial power up testing


    73's de Edd
    .....
     
    Last edited: Jul 30, 2018
    73's de Edd, Jul 30, 2018
    #9
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  10. Hallnbass

    nevans54

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    Came across this thread in trying to repair my own Vizio sound bar... model S4221W-C4.
    The power supply looks quite similar to Hallnbass's. Mine is model MKL90W-02A-C1

    Not sure if my NTC Thermistor is good or not? I set my multimeter to 200 Ω and it reads about 2.4. Now, I only know enough to be dangerous with electronics, quite new at it, so I could be speaking nonsense. My thermistor is intact and is marked MSR11D 2R5A05. (Pictures attached)

    That fuse right next to it seems fine.

    I had my soundbar plugged in with power for years. We went away for about a week, so I turned off my surge protector to my entertainment system. When I came back, I flipped the switch, and now the soundbar will not power on. (Everything else on that surge protector works fine)

    I checked the other end of the board, and I am not getting 24V, but I am getting 5V where the board indicates, but nothing at the standby (see pic)

    Any idea based on that info of what I should check/replace?

    Thanks in advance!

    UPDATE -
    I'm still getting 120v past the thermistor and the fuse here IMG_3083 copy.jpg ... so something more else down the line must be the problem.


    IMG_3083.jpg IMG_3082.jpg IMG_3081.jpg IMG_3079.jpg IMG_3080.jpg
     
    Last edited: Oct 3, 2018
    nevans54, Oct 2, 2018
    #10
  11. Hallnbass

    Richard J

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    I just like to know where you found the board as I can't find whats wrong with mine. I tried can't find pc board any were MKL90w-02-c1 has no 24v 5 v ok
     
    Richard J, Oct 7, 2018
    #11
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