Maker Pro
Maker Pro

Monitor with inttermittent power.

tedstruk

Jan 7, 2012
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Repairing a flat screen Monitor motherboard
ILPI-027 RevA 2008.09.12
E131175TC-2B 94V-0
0843
with audio
I have removed the pucky

This monitor worked really well for for 3 years. Then it quit turning on properly.

There are three bulging caps
2 of them
GK(M) X9M 105 degree C
470uf 25v electrolitic polarized
1 of them
GK(M) X9A 105 degree C
1000uf 10v electrolitic polarized

Is there an upgrade- better cap for these?
should I install a 16v for the 10v and a 50v for the 25v?131175B.jpg 131175B.jpg
 

kellys_eye

Jun 25, 2010
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Practically any capacitor of the correct(ish) value and having a voltage rating of AT LEAST that of the original will fix the fault.

You can spend a bit more money and get capacitors from manufacturers of renown but for the expected life of the monitor (another few years perhaps) you can get away with most mainstream component supplier parts.
 

tedstruk

Jan 7, 2012
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I have some 85 degree 470uf's? Will these work for the 105 degree 470uf's?
Replaced the 1000uf already.
 

dave9

Mar 5, 2017
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You really ought to use very low ESR, 105C rated parts. Back in the day monitors would routinely experience cap failure before even two years passed due to parts with ESR too high.

Being in the US, I'd get whatever brand you want from Digikey, something like Panasonic, Rubycon, Nichicon, United Chem-con, etc. in a low ESR series. Digikey because on very small (under a few ounces) orders they will ship the cheaper USPS method if you pick that at checkout.

You did not mention the capacitor dimensions. Sometimes in a monitor, the height in particular can be a problem. Here are a couple suggestions if the height is not too tall, maybe taller than the originals but I see a taller cap and heatsink right next to them so...

I'm guessing based on the pictures that they're 10mm diameter.

2 x 470uF/25V: https://www.digikey.com/product-det...ronic-components/EEU-FM1E471/P12388-ND/613749

1 x 1000uF/10V: https://www.digikey.com/product-det...c-components/EEU-FM1A102B/P19694CT-ND/6109592
 
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tedstruk

Jan 7, 2012
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Installed them, but I don't have the control panel buttons for the monitor, they were in the housing which went with the garbage. what are my options!
 

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dave9

Mar 5, 2017
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Unless I misunderstand, what you are saying is it won't work because you threw away critical portions of it?

If that is true then your options are to find a new day job and buy a new monitor. :D

Seriously, why would you throw away parts of something you hope to recover? I must be misunderstanding what you wrote.
 

tedstruk

Jan 7, 2012
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That's what I did when it failed. So I tried to pull it apart, you know they aren't designed for a home hacker to take apart, what a mess, almost sliced off one of my digits... anyway, Its not like me to toss important stuff away, so I tossed the guts in a box, guess I just overlooked it. I don't know I think I remember looking at it and saying to myself "an on-off button board with a CPU on it... wow" Its probably in a box around here somewhere...Anyhoo-- I was dearly hoping to recover the device. It has audio and everything, HDMI flat screen, one of the speakers went missing. I wonder if it will operate without a control board and one speaker? I am going to test it and see what I get! The truth though, is that it seems like a device this fancy should last longer than a decade(caps are the worst)! I would hate to start a business, nickle and dime myself death over a flat panel, then have it fail me just as all my loans come due. Isn't all this money and fun intrieging, exciting and just healthy?!!
Is there a place where they keep schematics, specs, and stuff for these fancy HDMI thingys with audio, smart buttons and bad caps?
 

kellys_eye

Jun 25, 2010
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'Built-in obsolescence' is the thing.

I suggest many manufacturers are crying into their accountants laps as they realise their product is lasting beyond 3-5 years...... I have monitors that are 10+ years old and still going strong but they aren't full HD (1080p) so I'd always be looking for something 'better' if I bought new again..... which is precisely what the manufacturers want from us.

Unless a monitor is ultra high-end with special use/purpose then the majority are destined for the scrap yard unless you take the time to make the (relatively simple) repairs.

Finding switch panels such as the one you've junked will be beyond any reasonable worthwhile effort.
 

dave9

Mar 5, 2017
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If all it is lacking is the switches to do functions like on/off, menu, volume, etc, AND you have the processor board with the video input, there should be a connector on it with a row of pins. One pin is probably either power or ground and the rest go to the controller.

By shorting pairs of pins together you should be able to deduce which ones control which functions, then you'd either hard solder or buy a mating connector to wire up new momentary contact (normally open) switches. I might just do without the menu settings if it was adjusted well before it failed, and wouldn't care about one audio speaker that's (low) monitor quality, and just find the pins for power on/off and have only that one switch.

There might also be power and ground for an LED indicator(s), don't short those two together.
 
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tedstruk

Jan 7, 2012
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Bluey is excited now! K now comes the real technical questions like pic 1-"do I have the right screen wires plugged into the right socketws on the main board" and pic 2-"I think this is the control board plug" and in retrospect pic 3 -"I wonder if any of these guys know what this little dohicky is"...
 

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dave9

Mar 5, 2017
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pic 1, probably doesn't matter, just two pairs of CFL tubes supply lines. pic 2, doesn't look like enough wires for a control board. pic 3 is a switch and who knows what else (wouldn't need 4 wires and the rest of the terrible pic is too dark).
 

tedstruk

Jan 7, 2012
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on the back side of the board... there are more numbers.
790871400600R H8760AA0F7MS 0834
and the Board embossing is
490481400600R

Images of a control board out of a DVD machine I tore downIMG_20180403_160224946.jpg .. might work, but the plug-in IMG_20180403_160258145.jpg has broke off the board, I will have to cut the plug off the wire, and solder it directly to the button PCB
 

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tedstruk

Jan 7, 2012
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Verbose for dialog on repairing mass produced devices....
I know that not to far in the near future, I am going to be flooded by young genius who got their hands on something I have never heard of, made by some great manufacturer that I never dealt with, who thinks its just a little device, that I have no idea what it does, and wants me to give them the OK to hack it. Well there is just only so much that I can hack... But I ain't gonna tell them that, and I will always say to anyone who thinks they can..."Do it, if you don't learn anything, it will probably work."
Now here is the clincher. Any good techy knows that most devices that were mass produced were designed hack proof. And most good techys know that most stamp out devices did the exact same thing the exact same way as all the other ones just like them. So if that one fits in there, and all the connections fit, it is probably only in the fact that I wish I was having as much fun as you, that I might say something else like..."get outta here kid, yer buggin me somethin feirce", or "feeling responsible are we?"
 

tedstruk

Jan 7, 2012
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Sorry... The pussy died. Tell me please oh great one... will these things work without the backlight and all the white paper products behind the fancy director board?
 

dave9

Mar 5, 2017
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Yes they work without the backlight and reflective/diffusion/etc light filtering/spreading... you just won't be able to SEE what they're doing. o_O

Despite all the text written previously, this topic is not progressing in a logical attach at the problem and solution. Why would there be no backlighting? You have 4 tubes and two transformers, very unlikely that two parallel circuits and all tubes would fail simultaneously. Perhaps the switching transistor(s) for the transformers have overheated and cracked a solder joint or two, or just failed themselves. Trace the circuit with a multimeter and remember that the output from those transformers is several hundred or more volts.

Without the backlighting you should be able to confirm it otherwise works properly by giving it a source to display and shining a flashlight at the screen at an angle and looking closely at it.
 
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davenn

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Yes they work without the backlight and reflective/diffusion/etc light filtering/spreading... you just won't be able to SEE what they're doing. o_O


Despite all the text written previously, this topic is not progressing in a logical attach at the problem and solution.

this is typical of Ted's threads .... you get used to their oddball ramblings after a while :p:D
 
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