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JVC Speaker getting power but not producing sound

SThundur

Jan 8, 2017
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you should be using Ohms setting




what makes you think it isn't working ?

you still didn't answer my Q's...
1) what happens when you put the good speaker on the other channel ? or preferably some test speaker
2) did you inspect the speaker line carefully for damage ?
3) no that wasn't the pic I wanted ..... I want to see a pic of the speaker connections on the back of the amp


Dave
Sorry, the channel works, I've put the good speaker in both. There seems to be no damage. But there seems to be no positive connection past the sub. I have a receiver not an amp, does that matter? https://imgur.com/gallery/FXk8p
The grey and black is for the other working JVC, the others are for two sonys.
If I get something wrong it's because there is a lot of stuff that I don't know or understand.
 

duke37

Jan 9, 2011
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In #13 I suggested using an analog meter to measure the resistance.If you do have one of these, try flicking a 9V battery across each driver. You should get some crackles.
The bass driver should be OK if it measures 5Ω.
The mid range driver should also measure a similar value.
The tweeter may be an electrostatic type and very high resistance (not my expertise here).

The bass speaker is possibly connected through an inductance to the input.
What is the resistance between the input wires. If there is an open circuit but the bass speaker has a resistance then you need to find the break.
 

SThundur

Jan 8, 2017
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In #13 I suggested using an analog meter to measure the resistance.If you do have one of these, try flicking a 9V battery across each driver. You should get some crackles.
The bass driver should be OK if it measures 5Ω.
The mid range driver should also measure a similar value.
The tweeter may be an electrostatic type and very high resistance (not my expertise here).

The bass speaker is possibly connected through an inductance to the input.
What is the resistance between the input wires. If there is an open circuit but the bass speaker has a resistance then you need to find the break.
I do not have an analog meter but I do have a multimeter, and the resistance is about the same, bouncing between 3 and 5Ω.
 

Audioguru

Sep 24, 2016
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Did you measure the resistance with a multimeter of the entire speaker at the connector in its rear? Is it about 7 ohms?
 

Audioguru

Sep 24, 2016
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The upper tweeter and middle midrange speakers are fed though capacitors that block low frequencies and block the DC from your ohm meter. Then the connector on the rear connects directly to the bottom largest woofer speaker that you are measuring 3 to 5 ohms. Then the wiring works fine and the woofer should make low frequency sounds when the input signal has some bass. There is no sub.
 

73's de Edd

Aug 21, 2015
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SIR SThundur . . . . .


Velly Velly Confusing . . . .

As, I see no GREY and BLACK wiring . . .only BLUE and GREY for one speaker pair outputs and
RED and BLACK for the other speaker pair of outputs with some little . . . NO-NO . . . hay-wired
in set of GRAY wires to the bottom RED and BLACK set of wires.

On the units main controls one might expect to find a Speaker option switch that would activate SPEAKER SET A or SPEAKER SET B or speakers A+B.
On some systems, they may only let you run one speaker set, with no option for A + B.

Tell us if the RED-BLACK and BLUE-GRAY wires are properly producing sound output from their connected speakers.

Take the extreme WIRE ENDS of the inoperative speaker and place across an AA or D cell . . . just quickly / temporarily and confirm if that woofer then makes a plop sound for you.
Then , if so doing , connect those wires in place of a set of connections that were feeding a working speaker.
That problematic speaker should then work from that connection.

73's de Edd
 
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davenn

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Sep 5, 2009
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I think I have found my problem, there is a capacitor that is not working going to the middle speaker.

I wasn't talking about the channel I quoted this from you

I think I have found my problem, there is a capacitor that is not working going to the middle speaker.

and responded ..... what makes you think it isn't working ?

to that you haven't responded ;) :)
 
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davenn

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Take the extreme WIRE ENDS of the inoperative speaker and place across an AA or D cell . . . just quickly / temporarily and confirm if that woofer then makes a plop sound for you.
Then , if so doing , connect those wires in place of a set of connections that were feeding a working speaker.
That problematic speaker should then work from that connection.

Edd,
if you read back through the thread, you would see he had already put the faulty speaker cabinet across the working channel and there was no sound ;)


these threads are so frustrating ( nothing against the OP) it has been going almost 2 days back and forward and still haven't really proved much
10 minutes on site and I would have been able to confirm what the problem was
 

Audioguru

Sep 24, 2016
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You never told us that the tweeter and woofer work fine but only the mid-range speaker does not work.
 

davenn

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You never told us that the tweeter and woofer work fine but only the mid-range speaker does not work.

I'm not sure that he realises that the capacitor inline with the midrange speaker is going to stop an Ohms test ??

hence why I asked him again why he thinks the capacitor is faulty
 
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Craig

Apr 10, 2014
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I test speakers by taking a 9 v battery and and touch both speaker wires to the battery, one on the pos , one on the neg, do it quickly don't hold it on there. It should produce a pop or click sound. That means the coil is good and should have movement of the speaker. Do not keep the battery connected any length of time you could burn out the coil,
 

davenn

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I test speakers by taking a 9 v battery and and touch both speaker wires to the battery, one on the pos , one on the neg, do it quickly don't hold it on there. It should produce a pop or click sound. That means the coil is good and should have movement of the speaker. Do not keep the battery connected any length of time you could burn out the coil,

yup, that was suggested many posts ago ;)
using a multimeter is a much safer way

unfortunately the OP never returned so we will not find out how he got on
 

Audioguru

Sep 24, 2016
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9V/8 ohm= 1.125A but the voltage of a new little 9V alkaline battery with a current that high will probably drop to 6V or less. 6V squared/8 ohms= only 4.5W that most speakers can survive (but maybe not a tweeter).
 
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