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How to open back cover of this TV?

73's de Edd

Aug 21, 2015
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Sir Mansan . . . . .

Wel l l l l l l l l . . . . . I have looked at every for-free manual from Samsung on that size and series of Tee Wee set, yet they all are showing fifty eleventeen back screws that need to be removed to then just let the back easily lift up, off and away..
NOT SO . . . .on yours, as its clear to see that the back is made clamshell style which is dependent upon prying the two ALREADY . . . .SNAPPED TOGETHER . . . . halves slightly apart to START to get an entry point to further separate the two halves, outwardly from that initial entry /separation point.
I first encountered . . . . .what seems to be . . . . the final degree of inaccesibility on some of my computer monitors in years past.
The first thing that I see that is initially needed is the pulling off of that support stands mounting screws from the cabinet back and removing the stand.
Then if was being MY job to do, I would be getting some bedding/quilts/etc to protect the face of the screen, then you need some firm and solid support across the FULL front of the face of the TV.
That would be from an adequately sized sheet of plywood a bit or somewhat larger than the face of the screen.
I would lay that plywood sheet down towards the floor such that one edge could rest up against some immobile support to positively keep the sheet-ply from slipping laterally AT ALL .
The other half of the sheet, that is not then immobilized, gets propped up at about a 30 degree angle with use of any substantial supporting mediums that are lined up and placed below it so that they will also NOT SLIP and let that end fall down ! ! ! . You then place that protective padded cushioning over the sheet of plywood and that will let the TOP of the screen go down and rest across the support closest to the floor, with the bottom of the TV being at the top of the slope and thereby being VERY accessible to you in a sitting on the floor position . . . . as alternatively compared to the set being WAY down upon the floor level.

You will then have accomplished three optimal situations:

  • The now very easily accessible bottom of the tv, with it right in your face and being at hands working level.
  • The very center of that case area is the most pliable in the flexing of the two interlocked case halves
  • This is the normally non viisible area of the TV so THIS is exactly the area where you want any potential case defacing Boo-Boos to occurr. . . . . . accomplished during the acquiring of your your cases mechanical disassembly " learning curve ".expertise.
I found two household items as being . . . THE . . . . tools to use in the prying of the interlocked case halves apart.
The small "tool" is being an orange peeler that is made from high density polyethylene that has the peel cutting portion at one end, and the other "business" end that I use, is shaped like a flat blade standard screwdriver in its shaped profile..
The other tool is being a high density polyethylene dry wall compound applicator / spreader
The peelers end was already mostly tapered to an edge but I made half of its width into a knife edge by using an almost vertical aligned box cutter or sharp knife blade and alternatively drawing it so that it scrapes away plastic. You end up with a sharp edge on the plastic.
The same sharpening into a knife edge onto only one end of the dry wall spreader was also done.
This works much better than the result of trying to use sandpaper on this family of plastic !
It only results in rough fuzzy blobs of plastic.

SAFETY CAVEAT . . . . don't let a slipped tool, slice apart your mispositioned hand. on a downstroke.

Doing the separation magic . . . .

Press at the center of the back at a joined seam and you will the see one case half that will move and separate apart the most.
Work either tool into that seam and pry to get further visual access to finding the first area where you will be able to see that they are using a short length of protruding molded slot that mates with a like length of recessed slot within the other case half that aligns with it.
They then repeat at spaced out distances, all around the case periphery..
Once you get that first set of locked joints apart ,you need to place in a separator such that the two halves are kept separated and can't snap back into their locking positions.

In MY learning curve, I started with toothpicks, drifted to matchsticks, bamboo skewers, all of which were round and found that some could roll out of place during side to side efforts on other sequential sides releases, unless being taped down or the use of a blob of the kiddos modeling clay to hold..

I have now optimized the seam separating materiel choice up to my using a business card size of card stock or cut out the same size from clear plastic that our vegetable clamshels plastic enclosures are made of.
That plastic will readily accept plastic tape adhering to it; and then to also stick to the TV case.
As you work around from that initial unsnapped area, by working from one side of the case to the other, while keeping them from snapping back together with the spacers, you will finally encounter that area past mid point on the side, where the whole back can then be slid upward to release the balance of the snapped together points of the case seams.

THEN . . . on repair completion . . . its just that initial reversal of procedure at the top of the set in your, partially sliding it together and then working on snapping each joined point together, AND that case half reinstall is much-much easier than the initial disassembly was.


This ole' fools . . . .tools . . . .


upload_2017-11-15_3-0-23.png

Thasssit . . . . .

73's de Edd
 
Last edited:

Minder

Apr 24, 2015
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Apr 24, 2015
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3,478
Clip release tool sets are fairly cheap and consist of the necessary tools.
M.
 
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