Sir Cevi . . . . .
OBSERVATIONS . . .
On your photos of post 10, in actuality, both part configurations being drawn in are incorrect.
To amend, you go to the right, to see the two connections and draw in a 5 ohm resistor that is being in series with a thermal fuse link. They connect to that pair of connections.
The far left connection makes no significant connection into actual board circuitry, with it merely serving as a mechanical support tiepoint.
The available manuals given are of no use in providing a complete schematic of the power supply proper . . . its totally not being provided, probably only being available as / from the Sanken sub supplier / module builder.
The parts list referencing is also a royal mess.
Ergo . . . I have marked up a block diagram with the critical power flow paths of our main interest.
That is going to be the AC input and its connectivity into the "
400" series standby circuit and its offshoots.
Follow the entry flowpath of the HOT A.C. line at the far left .
Its being recolored up as VISIBLE
PURPLE, with flow direction arrows.
It initially comes in and comes down to your now open circuit 10 ohm + thermal fuse R104 and then the power was supposed to flow down to your already found . . .dead shorted . . .
D309 half wave diode that is used for providing power for the standby supply circuitry.
The inset pic . . . of a portion of the PCB . . . shows the non disclosed
C404 filter capacitor for this supply.
Then you encounter a series
F401 fuse, and you may have to look hard for this one, just in case you are expecting a conventional large glass fuse.
Since it very likely might be disguised as a mini PICO brand , wired in fuse in a green / khaki / black case.
If you find it blown open circuit, you will see that the power then would have flowed thru the primary winding of the T401 sby power transformer and ended up connecting into the Z401 switching semiconductor / device.
You need to track that down and give the numbering on it . . to research out.
That could possibly be dead shorted inside to hot ground also.
Confirm that by going to low ohms and metering by having ground probe going to a TRIANGULAR ( HOT ground connection) and the other probe goes to either of the primary wires or over at the right terminal of F401.
Looking for high resistance . . . being good . . . or low / shorted . . .that's BAD.
Waiting for your findings and feedback . . . . . .
Just now read your add on . . . . .
Your post #16 . . . . confirmed . . . looks like the thermal fuse link is being intact and the resistor blown open
Your post #17 . . . . the thermal coupling / to /mass in no way simulates the attributes of the original product.
" I really want to solder a 10 ohms above the case "
You dont solder to that style of thermal lead as the epoxy embedded wire end will open the internal link 142 deg from soldering iron heat (~200----450 C. )
A person should crimp / screw / spot weld the connection to that critical / temp sensitive lead.
What we can safely . . .
SAFELY . . .
SAFELY . . . do, is utilize dim lamp technology in the respect of the use of ~40-60 watt / 220/240 V Incandescent lamp inserted in place of the blown thermal resistor.
After checking the board, to be sure that there are being no more shorted diodes and semis in that sby area, one powers up and then watches that lamp .
If it glows bright at power plug in and stays . . . . .still a problem / shorted or breaking down part(s) in that sby area.
If it is dim or lightly glows and tapers on off in brightness. . . progress is then being at hand.
TECHNO REFERENCING SOURCE . . . . .
73's de Edd