Garment Steamer

[R791945]

The Thermal Cut Out is faulty. I have spoken to a company that I thought distribute this item but they do not recongnise it.

On the TCO is:

1TY
cRius (NB: the R is reversed)
TA-07

The steamer label states:

Voltage: 220-250V/50Hz

Power: 1450watts

The heater element is a 4cm diameter tube of iron (length 4.5cm).


Could I please have some help to decide what trip temperature setting to buy as a replacement.

 

[kellys_eye]

Got any pictures?

 

[Alec_t]

Is the heater element for providing dry heat (unlikely), or is it the steam-generator element?

 

[R791945]

1 underside of steamer
2 view of non wet side of the element showing the tco
3 View of heater element (the donut)

 

[R791945]

 

[Alec_t]

Since the heater element obviously needs to rise above 100C to produce steam, but should cut out not much above that, I would guess a thermostat rated for a temperature in the 110C-150C range would be used there. Are there no markings in or on the plastic moulding of the stat to give a clue?

 

[R791945]

Since the heater element obviously needs to rise above 100C to produce steam, but should cut out not much above that, I would guess a thermostat rated for a temperature in the 110C-150C range would be used there. Are there no markings in or on the plastic moulding of the stat to give a clue?

Please refer to the first message in this topic as it shows all I could glean from the original TCO. I can not make much sense of the markings.

 

[Alec_t]

If you undo the two screws holding the stat, are there any markings on its hidden face?

 

[R791945]

I am soaking the base in limescale remover. I will report back ASAP.

 

[R791945]

I am soaking the base in limescale remover. I will report back ASAP.

Although there was writing under the calcium deposit, It was not meaningful, because the calcium had removed some of the scratched in writing.

 

[R791945]

I propose that I buy a replacement TCO with a rating of 10A but what trigger temperature? If I set it at 102c I assume it will cut out before the water is boiling as the TCO measures the temperature at the back of the heater element instead of the water temperature.. If I set it to say at 130 it might handle the steam generating but if there is no water in the tank will the heater element be ruined on the way to 130? So the crucial question is what temperature setting should I buy?

 

[R791945]

I would appreciate a comment on my last posting (#11) about the TCO's trigger temperature. I have been waiting for a reply so that I can order the part.

 

[davenn]

I would appreciate a comment on my last posting (#11) about the TCO's trigger temperature. I have been waiting for a reply so that I can order the part.

Alec_t gave you the best estimate way back in post #6

since you are unable to provide any other info, there isn't much else that can be said

Although there was writing under the calcium deposit, It was not meaningful,

maybe not to you ... but you didn't even share what there was visible

 

[Alec_t]

Unless anyone here owns or is familiar with that particular steamer we can only estimate the TCO temperature specification. I sincerely doubt the heater element itself would be damaged if run at temperatures well above 100C, but the plastic parts supporting it or close to it would be at risk of deforming or igniting.

 

[R791945]

Thank you for your reply. I attach the best of the bunch photos that I can send you.

 

[Alec_t]

As the TCO is knackered anyway, can you try dissolving the lime scale (with vinegar or lemon juice) to get a better view of the markings?

 

[73's de Edd]

Sir Secret Agent # R791945 . . . . .


When I initially saw your post I suspected a fault that was not being associated with your thermal sensing /switching/ thermostat unit.
That was being, your use of common tap water in the unit, which could lead up to your potential and probable situation now.
If you have an accumulated lime scale build up between the very center therrmal face of the thermostat it is then not PRODUCING a TRUE sampling of the thermal source.
BECAUSE you then have a thermally insulative layer between the two surfaces . . . the limescale !

Initially . . . get the whole sampling face surface of the thermostat free of all scale, be that by your gradual acidic chemical erosion or merely by a slow controlled abrading it off into dust, with a single edge razor blade or Exacto knife's blade.

THEN, in order to test, you boil water and get two test leads that get clipped onto the 2 contacts of the thermostat. The other cliip leads get connected to a DVM placed in its low ohm scale to see if there is continuity of the thermostat, or an open circit.
( Another option is to use the DIODE / continuity test and its possible continual beep . . . if it doesn't eventually drive you crazy . . . in the case of a closed circuit. )
Then you dip the thermostat into the boiling water, to see that if at some point that the thermostats switching action changes to its opposite.
Then you take out of the water and expect transition on cool down state.
If the max temp of the boiling water is inadequate, then you would have to use the inside of an oven to gradually ramp up the temp to reach higher temps to test.

Then it seems that you might have yourself a properly working unit again.

If this proves to be true, then you put a thin layer of silicone grease*** on both the heated metal area of contact to the thermostat and the face of the thermostat and reinstall the unit and give the whole system a testing.

Then . . . . . see if your heating problems are solved.

***John Q. Public can find his silicone grease guised as "Plumbers silicone grease" at the hardware store.
. . . Or chemists find it available to themselves as glass stop cock grease
. . . Or hot rodder find it as silicone oil . . . . racers HI TEMP brake fluid . . . . (resplendently colored / tinted at . . . . .no extra charge ! )

An additonal HINT . . . . for the future . . . . distilled water is FREE . . . . if you merely think ahead and collect rainwater for its later use in the unit .

If this is being a critical piece of equipment to your livelihood, contact me for a further technique to extend its life.




73's de Edd

 

[R791945]

As the TCO is knackered anyway, can you try dissolving the lime scale (with vinegar or lemon juice) to get a better view of the markings?

I used vinegar to get the limescale off. What the pictures show is after the limescale is removed. That is why I didn't send them earlier.

Just before I order the 112C from Farnel, do you see any reason why it is not the most sensible rating to start out with? I am going to the bottom of the range suggested at posting #6 to reduce the risk of fire. I am assuming that the element needs to be slightly hotter than boiling point to give a good steaming effect:

http://cpc.farnell.com/honest-well/t23a112asr2-15/thermal-switch-nc-112-c/dp/SW03177

 

[Alec_t]

112C sounds reasonable. Let us know if it does the trick.

 

[73's de Edd]

Did you not try the continuity and cycling test to confirm that the old unit is cycling and still being a viably useable unit ???

With its fault . . .actually being insulatively and thermally isolated from making a proper heat sinked sampling of the heating source.

Also didn't the numbering finally come out as it seems that the center line is . . . . . . 2?0 V / ?A

Plus there still seems to be a layer of scale on the unit . . . .since . . . that metal portion is usually stainless steel or aluminum.
In the case of aluminum being the metal , it thus could have surface etched . . . to easily be giving that visual appearance.

73's de Edd