FOG MACHINE REMOTE CONTROL PROBLEM

[partyanimallighting]

Hi guys,

I have an Antari Z-1200 II fog machine with a problematic remote that continuously outputs once the unit reaches operating temperature. As you can see from the pictures, the unit can be set to output via a timer or continuously or manually. However, the remote is not functioning properly. I've tried another remote and the unit works fine so it's definitely this particular remote that has an issue. The only thing that I found looking a little scorched was zener diode 1 (ZD1). Can any of you wizards out there give me a hand to repair this?

 

[KTW]

Is that ZD1 cracked?

 

[partyanimallighting]

Not sure. I just think the board looks a little scorched below the ZD1. That's why I mentioned it.

 

[partyanimallighting]

Any one else care to offer some assistance here? Please? Anyone? Hello???

 

[davenn]

Is that ZD1 cracked?

no, you are just seeing the 2 internal sections

Any one else care to offer some assistance here? Please? Anyone? Hello???

so these 3 switches you removed so dreadfully roughly, have you tested each of them to make sure they work correctly and reliably ?

 

[HellasTechn]

Here is the simplest answer that will fix your problem, given that the problem is indeed the remote control.

Your PCB is roughly consisted of 2 IC's 3 buttons, 1 transistor, 5 diodes, 1 zener diode and a few other parts that hardly ever fail.

Why dont you just order the two IC's, transistor, diode, zener diode and replace them anyway. If there is a fault then i would only suspect one of them and thy probably only cost a few $.

P.S.
You can check the potentiometers with a multimeter just in case. Diodes and transistor likewise.
You also want to make sure the cable is not broken or shorted.

 

[partyanimallighting]

"Dreadfully roughly". LOL!!! I didn't worry to clean up the pcb after I removed the switches. Sorry. I checked the switches for continuity and they're fully functional. The remote control is the problem because the machine works fine with another identical remote. As far as my ability (noting that the switches were removed dreadfully roughly!!!), I'm not an electronics expert but I can trace circuits to some extent, check voltages, use a multimeter to test, do a little soldering etc. My question is, if I'm changing out anything, where do I start? The zener diode, the transistor? How can I tell the values to get replacement parts? By the way, as far as sourcing parts, I live on a Fourth World island in the West Indies so some parts will definitely not be available locally. Please guide me accordingly.

 

[davenn]

My question is, if I'm changing out anything, where do I start? The zener diode, the transistor? How can I tell the values to get replacement parts?

all except the ZD have type written on them ... I will assume Q1 transistor does as well


The ICs are HCF4541

dunno what the transistor is, you haven't shown the front face of it

the ZD ... unknown

The diodes are labelled
1N4148

 

[73's de Edd]

Sir partyhearty . . . .

Reading the boards associative components, I see no justification for an overloading of its zener diode.
Get the unit put back together again, being sure that the switch soldering fully meets Mil spec qualifications or on up to NASA tech brief 7000–1.
Power up the unit and take a DC voltage reading across your Zener Diode with its (black banded) lead closest to R8 being the positive polarity of the diode and see what voltage is being read across its two leads.
If it is reading as no voltage, or on up to less than one volt you have a bad zener.
If being bad, the fully pulled unit might reveal fine numbering identification on its glass envelope.
If not being able to read it, bring back your other tested good unit and connect it up, and then remove only the back cover so that you may get to the same test points on the diode of this other unit and then power it up and test for voltage present across this zener diode and that should give you the voltage specification of the zener needed on the bad unit.
THEN check back with us for further info.

73's de Edd

 

[HellasTechn]

By the way, as far as sourcing parts, I live on a Fourth World island in the West Indies so some parts will definitely not be available locally. Please guide me accordingly.

It may be possible that you can order them Via E-Bay at really low cost.

Sourceing parts is a problem all around the world. except maybe china, im not sure.