WayneL said:
Hi Chris
Ahhhh. I do not have a factory zero meter test fixture. Do I need to get
one or can I live without one?
What are the part numbers of both attachments?
Cheers
Wayne
These meters always came with a standard test fixture, which plugged
directly into the 4 coax connectors on the front panel. It's a small
white box with 4 female connectors. You can use it to measure
components directly. It's not made specifically for zeroing the meter,
although you can use it for that. The meter won't zero out without
having some fixture capacitance there (and also having the high current
connected to high potential and low current to low potential too, I
believe).
Look around and see if you have this fixture. As I remember, it's a
small (approx. 6" X 3" X 2") white metal box with flat recessed
gold-plated clips on the top, and two knurled thumbscrews on the front
to lock in components or small conductive contact blocks.
The advantage of using the factory fixture is that it has a known
impedance which the meter _should_ be able to zero out. As I remember,
there is a switch on the front of your meter which has two positions --
0 meter or 0.5 meter (length of the fixture coax to compensate). I
preferred to use the 0 m setting and this fixture (you can't plug in
the fixture I'm talking about without switching the front panel switch
to 0 m -- it won't fit) because you didn't have to worry about
intermittent coax on a quick meter check/zero compensation.
When you get the manual, do the self-test sequence -- it may give you
more information on what's going on than a zero/fixture compensation
cycle can achieve.
A bit of bad news -- on the last one of these meters I used (about 8
years ago, all this is from memory), the symptoms you're reporting were
the initial indications of the bitter end. I hope you'll have better
luck.
Chris