Dual Intensity Dual LED Circuit Integration

[tome10]

I have a 48 LED Puck. It has a Yellow wire (Low Intensity), Red wire (High Intensity), and a Black wire (Negative). It works fine by itself.

However, I added a second LED strip. one of those that you cut to length, and solder the Red and Black wires too.

I put a 100Ohm Resistor for Low Intensity and power the LED after the Resistor for High Intensity.
It's when I try connecting these two together, the Puck doesn't seem to function correctly. I think I've figured out that the Puck has a resistor built in that is interfering with my throwing everything together and working. If I add a 100Ohm Resistor to the Strip, everything magically starts working, but in the end I lose 100ohm of Light from the Strip. I've just thought about the idea of maybe the Resistor needs to go on the Negative side of the strip, but I'm not sure. How do I balance this Circuit, and not lose the 100Ohm of light from the Strip? And I watched a video about these strips, and the guy had a bunch of Diodes all over the place. Do I need Diodes in this scenario?
Also, I tried hooking these up in series, but that didn't work at all. I have the two Negative Wires hooked together, and the Low Intensity (Yellow) wires hooked together, and the High Intensity (Red) hooked together. This is Parallel.

 

[Gryd3]

You do not need to change the size of the font you post to ask a questions.

What you have essentially done is bridged the High and Low input of your LED puck with a 100Ω resistor. Te use of diodes at the very least will ensure that you don't accidentally power/trigger the High or Low circuit inadvertently.
Can you link part numbers for us to take a look at?

 

[tome10]

Well it does the same thing whether I'm just trying to get the Low Intensity, or High Intensity working.
http://www.customdynamics.com/motorcycle_led_bulbs.htm#Genesis_LED_Clusters_

 

[(*steve*)]

The "puck" may contain more than just resistors.

It's not clear to me that you can add more LEDs to this device, my default assumption is that you couldn't.

 

[tome10]

I'm trying to circle the puck with the strip for lighting facing out on the edge of the puck. The puck is pretty directional. I think the puck has a 100 ohm or so resistor to mimic an incandescent bulb.

 

[Gryd3]

I'm trying to circle the puck with the strip for lighting facing out on the edge of the puck. The puck is pretty directional. I think the puck has a 100 ohm or so resistor to mimic an incandescent bulb.

Typically any LEDs in use will use a resistor value based on the current (Amperage) of the LED itself, and the supply voltage. This method gives off heat, so alternative methods involve active components to regulate the supply to the LEDs on the fly.
Unless you can take a look at the pucklight's internals, you, nor anyone here can say for certain how things are connected.
The use of diodes as mentioned above may be required to prevent one device or the other feeding back into itself.
Additionally, adding a 100Ω resistor to the input side of an LED device will expectingly reduce current flow into the device, but if the device uses active components, there is little you can do blindly to control the brightness of the LEDs aside from more 'smart' components. (For example, using PWM)

Edit: Occasionally, automotive LED bulb replacements will include a high-power resistor in parallel with the LED circuit to draw more current so that the vehicle assumes the bulb is not burnt out. These resistors give off a LOT of heat, as they are essentially wasting any electrical savings you may have for going to LED as heat. The devices that don't have this usually cause the flashing rate for turn signals to increase as that is a common indicator that a bulb is burnt out and needs to be replaced.