You can often get to the electrical connections by removing th
kick-panel below the door. Check for voltage at the heater terminals
If there is no voltage, Kill the breaker and open up the door itsel
from the inside and check for a burned-away wire, and check fo
continuity of the switch in the proper mode, which should connect th
heater to the line. if no continuity exists at the right time as yo
turn the knob, the switch itself has burned contacts
You can either disassemble the switch and burnish them clean, or buy
new washer as a new timer switch usually costs $250 or more (actua
worth: $4.95) because you were smart enough to find the rea
problem...Burnish with a fine non-mica nail file. Upon opening th
switch, the burns from a toasted contact will be obvious if that'
the problem causing it....A 1337 fix to this is to use a relay t
handle the current of the drying element instead of th
ridiculously-overpriced switch, or better, an SCR circuit
Properly-done, you will make a dishwasher that might actually outlas
the motor or the cavity..
Heated drying is somewhat wasteful, just leave the dishes in there fo
the next day. There's no real need to get the dishes into the cupboar
like some kind of national emergency, only to sit for the next 4 day
until they are needed again. If your water heater is set for 145ºF
then you don't need heated drying unless you are in some kind o
hurry
Sanitized-drying is nothing more than a fictitious selling-point fo
the gullible, as your dishwashing detergent and the hea
automatically-sanitize everything due to the sodium-chloride content
This goes into the same category as "Amps of power" o
"powerful [x]-amp motor, or any reference to volts or amps as
unit of power, as well as any usage of the phrase "protectin
your family" or any derivative or variant thereof)
0 ohms means continuity exists, the elements never short, only bur
open, so both elements are good, they are simply not getting power
find out why and you will have fixed the problem. In all-too-man
cases I have found a wire connection burned away because the nex
higher wire gauge, to prevent a potentially-unsafe condition an
increase reliability, would increase manufacturing costs up to 1
cents more per unit. This is most common in american-made appliance
and part of an intentionally-overlooked weakness to add additiona
revenue for repair costs in the hopes you will take it back to a
"authorized service center" for repair
Replace any conductors you may find broken with 14AWG wire instead o
the 16-18AWG that they consider safe for handling a 15-amp circuit.
have done many conversions on appliances to make them actually safe t
use, as well as reliable and efficient, and never heard a complain
about the unit again
As a side note, there is no such thing as an american-mad
"energy-efficient" appliance as you may have been ofte
lead to believe. A dishwasher should draw no more than 2 amps pea
aside from the heater element ("energy-saver"). a washin
machine should not require more than 5, and a dryer motor should no
need any more than 4 amps not counting the heater element (fluf
mode), for any of these to be considered anywhere nea
energy-efficient. When in the market, force the salesman to show yo
actual motor current
This is why I never see a truly-japanese-made appliance in the tras
for any other reason than blatant abuse/neglect/otherwis
unwanted-but-functional, yet I see nearly-new american appliance
headed for the trash daily with problems that should never hav
happened if anyone cared about quality
