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xbox steering wheel

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting and Repair' started by old8s, Jul 24, 2010.

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  1. old8s

    old8s

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    Jul 24, 2010
    ok yes all original solder has wiskers some very long too
    mine is ok as i used lead solder yes i stil have the no no stuff :)
    so i picked them off lol need god eyes :cool:

    i also removed L1 today c5 good c6 good L1 i played the death march and then sent it flying into space :D tu darrrr dead !!! poor little bugger must have hung on just watching them wiskers grow

    i built 2 bridges across where L1 was and took a reading of output volts there a litte lower than the supply

    supply 24.1 v
    getting 24.17v

    looks like ill be winding some copper wire try and get rid of some heat r make it lol :eek:
     
    Last edited: Aug 1, 2010
  2. old8s

    old8s

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    Jul 24, 2010
    just had a light bulb go off in me head
    :):):):):):):):):):):):):):):):):):):):):):):):):):):)
    k im being silly now:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D
     
  3. Resqueline

    Resqueline

    2,848
    2
    Jul 31, 2009
    Good lighting is very useful indeed..! ;) And nothing beats good ol' lead solder btw..! :)
    Now, I don't think the absense of L1 has anything to do with those voltage differences. I'd be hard pressed making a coil to put in its place. (I might use two .5Ohm resistors.)
     
  4. old8s

    old8s

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    Jul 24, 2010
    yeh if only

    yeh lol i know

    i think i need to find bridge rectifier i recon
    i guess i just need to smooth/eliminate any 24vac
    maybe i could solder 4 diodes
    or i could buy bridge rectifier but what to use

    the power supply is
    input 110v-240v 50-60 hz
    48-62va 0.80a
    output 24v dc 1.0a

    if i understood the formula id know size of diodes/ bridge rectifier needed
    or am i missing something here:confused:
    small job takes me to school dam i spent to long @school
    became a mechanic not a sparky lol


    so capaciters can help smooth a bridge rectifier yes
    so why have 1 on input and one on output
    or why do i think L1 is a bridge rectifier
     
    Last edited: Aug 1, 2010
  5. old8s

    old8s

    30
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    Jul 24, 2010
    or

    then again how can i tell if im getting a pulse lol
    GOD im funny:rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:
    im alive i dont have to check lol :)
    if L1 was a bridge rectifier then the voltage should now pulse at 50/60 hz with it removed yes (edit : 120hz)

    also thanks resqueline for the tip its improved my life dramaticly i can now enjoy many an arfternoon kicking back relaxing in the sunshine

    for what reason i dont know but im thinking that L1 was a bridge rectifier cleaning up any ac pluse getting thru could that be write

    any thoughts n diodes to use
     
    Last edited: Aug 1, 2010
  6. Resqueline

    Resqueline

    2,848
    2
    Jul 31, 2009
    Hehe, yes you need to give you mind a rest indeed.. ;) Glad if I can be of help. :)
    An L is an inductor is a coil, and is NOT a rectifier. It's purpose is just to stop high frequencies (RF interference) from passing between the box & the psu, nothing more.
    The psu delivers DC, and the box receives & works with DC, no need to do anything about that..
    Leave it bridged as it is, as long as you don't experience interference on your tv, radio, or other receiver equipment.
    Consider the coil to be the rubber bushings in a cars undercarriage. Replacing them with solid metal bushings will only lead to a slightly noisier ride, nothing more.
     
    Last edited: Jul 31, 2010
  7. old8s

    old8s

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    Jul 24, 2010
    and i found 445-2219-1nd lol
    and you tell me i dont need it its 11;25 pm in ozz


    the only other thing i was thinking was maybe a couple of 6.8 uh rf chokes cheaper lol

    and im doing some home work on the capasitors i lost
    pritty easy to find what you have harder to find what you dont im guessing

    ha he he lol
    i just read the top of the page discussin and advise
    well ill bet im on a teaching site
    dam i am back at school
    no answear here lol

    hey thanks for your help resqueline
    im gettin it

    board still as is wires bridged on L1

    i tested circit with 3a fuse in place and put load across output (fuse wont blow)
    must be to big ?
    old fuse read 3a
    so im thinking if supply is 1a maybe fuse should be 1/2a sow blow? wil still carry 1a yes?
    other than noise i should be happy

    if i use to big a capasitor/s it will make it realy quiet but ill wast power
    ie loose power through heat yes

    sorry poor resqueline but if i stop thinking ill have done it all
    cheers mate :) thanks for listening


    small job gets write up like 1st nuclear power cell
    :):):):):):):):):):):):):):):):):):):):):):):):):):):):):):):):):):)
    :rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:
    head shake head shake head shake
    no no no! no no!!
    recon im maybe 2 out of ten or thats right schools out of 100
    bugger :(


    the silly thing is i was going to get rid of circit and bridge it
    now i get to keep the revers current diode d1 fuse and oneway d2 diode
    :cool:
     
  8. old8s

    old8s

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    Jul 24, 2010
    0.1uf cap
    amarican uh
     
  9. Resqueline

    Resqueline

    2,848
    2
    Jul 31, 2009
    No worries mate! ;)
    0.1uF caps sounds sensible. No matter what the value a cap won't waste anything as heat, but if it's too big it won't catch the right (high-) noise frequencies though.
    And if you have chokes that are up to 1A then it's better than resistors. Those 6.8uH may have a low enough resistance to not overheat. Ohm them out to be sure.
    The fuse must be able to pass at least 1A continously, so use 1.5 or 2A.
     
  10. old8s

    old8s

    30
    0
    Jul 24, 2010
    oky doky

    well then ill just use
    2x 1uh rf chokes 0.09 ohm one on each line
    and ill put a
    0.47 uf cap at c6
    0.01 uf cap at c5

    eletric motor has foward revers capabiletys
    anyhow ill have to spend time at the work bench again
    ill post a pic @ the end ( if i dont raz it up)

    im going deaf (being funny)so noise shouldent bother me its just knowing its there that kills
    cheers resqueline
    im shore this combo will work fine
    but let me know if you think differantly
    cheers again
     
    Last edited: Aug 1, 2010
  11. Resqueline

    Resqueline

    2,848
    2
    Jul 31, 2009
    Yes, I'm sure that'll be just fine. (Any choke with less than 0.5 ohm resistance won't overheat). The noise I was referring to is not the audible kind btw, it's hf radio waves.
    You know the bulges you sometimes find on laptop power cords and PC video cables? Those are ferrite cores serving the same (nice to have) purpose as this filter.
     
  12. old8s

    old8s

    30
    0
    Jul 24, 2010
    ta` dar```

    hey thanks to everyone for looking
    and many thanks to resqueline and steve

    well i solderd wires to where fuse marked 3a 459 was (the little white thing on the board) not pictured in post
    found out that L1 was a common choke
    so i got 2 rf chokes 920ma 0.09 onms
    and 2 capasitors 1x 0.47 1x 0.01 (jaycar)
    all throgh hole stuff
    solderd to board and
    wheel works fine
    no noise interfirance so far every thing seems to be ok stuck a battery operated radio right next to it
    whent down to 82mhz goes up to 108 mhz nothing heard
    no noise lines in any tv`s all other gear in house seems to not be getting any interfirance so far tvs, psp,cordless phone,ect

    Note i changed L1 because i made it smoke up sorry for not sharing stupidity :mad:
    anyhow always read your fuses even if you just brought them check them
    i love tandy`s :mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad: not!!

    anyhow im kickin back a few beers and listenin to the kids have fun again
    and thats the best bit in life:):):):):):):):):):)
    well i know i was a pain
    but thanks again
    cheers

    0` it cost me about $5.00 aus with a fuse that is 1.5a
    did i tell ya that the one i brought was 8a
    yes it is my mistake but i did ask for a 3a
    and yes it is possable that the 3a would have done the same but its not the point
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Aug 1, 2010
  13. Resqueline

    Resqueline

    2,848
    2
    Jul 31, 2009
    Glad to hear you got it working again, and thanks for sharing it all the way to the end! I'm sure someone else, somewhere, sometime, will benefit from this thread. :)
     
  14. old8s

    old8s

    30
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    Jul 24, 2010
    warrenty

    i only done this because i have no warranty on this item it ran out about 2007 lol

    NOTE : microsoft offer a replacment part and instructions as they know of this problem ( item recalled 2006) however it has to be sent back to microsoft for repair
    very odd that you cant just buy part and install yourself with instructions

    anyhow its running great still after about 6 hours running

    like i said i have an old transister radio ( grand dads) must be over 40year old and it picks up interfirance from every thing
    i have a wirless phone brought in 2007 and radio can hear it
    have sat radio near wireless wheel and nothing
    so thats all this prodject was stopping noise interfirance and getting power to force feed circit

    i dont belive ill ever have the microsoft problem of over heating this circit again
    so long as this post stays up ill come back to it if there are any problems with xbox steering wheel in the future

    thanks for your time effort and interest
    cheers all
     
  15. Craftsman

    Craftsman

    4
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    Oct 27, 2011
    I am having a similar problem with my wheel. No force feedback and the wheel won't turn on without the battery pack. I do not have a great electronic background but I enjoy trying to fix things myself.
    What voltage did you get at the end on W3? I am getting nothing. Actually the voltage bounces around from .000 to .033 and everywhere in betweenwith the meter on auto and
    .01 to .02 v with it set on a range. I put an inline 3 amp fuse in as it was blown, I have continuity through the fuse from the + input to L1 (and onwards) but no voltage if I connect the voltage meter from - (at the input of the power adapter) to anywhere in the circuit.
    The power adapter is putting out 24v. How it reacts to a load I have no idea.
    I have the circuit board disconnected from the rest of the wheel.
    Maybe I am missing some basic understanding of how circuits work but I would think that if you put 24v in you should see it come out somewhere in the circuit.
    I hope someone is still around out there monitoring this thread, I know it is old.

    Thanks
     
  16. (*steve*)

    (*steve*) ¡sǝpodᴉʇuɐ ǝɥʇ ɹɐǝɥd Moderator

    25,301
    2,738
    Jan 21, 2010
    Craftsman, read carefully through the thread from the beginning and see how close your problem matches the original one. You may have a different problem.

    Yep, someone's almost always watching these old threads... :)
     
  17. Craftsman

    Craftsman

    4
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    Oct 27, 2011
    It appears to be the same problem or at least very similar.
    F1 was blown, and L1 was cooked and I believe it was shorting back to ground through a trace via D1. I soldered in an inline 1.5 amp fuse. With the fuse in and power supply plugged in I got no voltage anywhere. If I open the fuse holder and test I have 24 v at the positive input.
    I used my multi meter in diode test mode and the D1 failed, closed circuit in both directions. I removed it from the board and it tested OK. Closed in one direction only with a voltage drop reading. Open in the opposite direction. I should have known better than to test the diode on the board where I could get continuity through other circuits.
    When I looked at the trace under D1 I noticed 1 trace went straight from neg, under D1 to a point on L1 near C6.
    I left the Diode off and removed L1. I shorted across L1 length ways closest to W3 and tested. I now had 24 v at W3.
    If one of the caps C5 or C6 where shorted would that short out the circuit and allow the voltage to take the shortest path to ground back to neg?
    I am thinking it must have been the cap that was close to D2 as I didn't short the other side of L1 which would leave that cap open. If it was the other cap I would still have a problem as it is still in the circuit.

    I tested the wheel in Forza 3 and had some vibration now but still no real force feedback in the corners. I only get a little vibration going over the rumble strips in the game.

    Any ideas? Not enough current getting to the motor? I don't really know how much amperage my power supply is able to gererate. It is labeled as 1 amp but who knows.
    Not sure what to test now but it sure is fun trying to figure it out.

    Thanks for the reply Steve.
     
  18. (*steve*)

    (*steve*) ¡sǝpodᴉʇuɐ ǝɥʇ ɹɐǝɥd Moderator

    25,301
    2,738
    Jan 21, 2010
    It's a switchmode power supply, so removing the diode and/or shorting the inductor are going to stop it working. In the latter case you're also likely to destroy the transistor used for switching.

    Getting 24V at the output is bad because it's probably designed to produce 5V (I'm not certain). It also means that you could destroy other devices powered by it.
     
  19. Craftsman

    Craftsman

    4
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    Oct 27, 2011
    From page 1 by Resqueline:

    "Ok, I enlarged the picture and I see now that D1 is across the supply after the fuse, so that's the overvoltage protection (& maybe reverse protection too). This blows fuse.
    I'm not quite sure about the fuse rating. It could be a 3A with a 459 characteristic (whatever that would be, could be ultrafast). Usually they're marked quite clearly.
    I'm also confused about the use of L1 & D2. I've never seen anything like L1 before. Depending on what it's made of it could still be ok, but try to Ohm it after removing D1.
    Mind you L1 seems to have 4 terminals, so it could be a dual coil passing both + & -. I guess it should pass current along the long sides and isolate on the short sides.
    It could be just a so-called common-mode filter choke for interference suppression. If broken it can be replaced with wires. A 24-5V regulator will be found on the main pcb.
    Just Ohm the small caps, they can short out on rare occations. I don't see your soldering of F1 could have damaged D1, nor the purpose of building a new pcb."

    The idea was that L1 was just for noise suppression and could be replaced by wires. Also stated that the voltage reduction was probably done on another PCB in the wheel. Should I put D2 back on the board and put a resistor of the size stated back in the circuit instead of the wire. I will draw up what I have done so far when I get a chance and post so you can compare with original drawing on page one.

    Thanks again for the input.
     
  20. noelito

    noelito

    7
    0
    Nov 10, 2011
    guys i need help. i went to our electronics store here in our country and rf chokes that they have seems to have ratings of micro and milihenry. really noob about this I was able to get the capacitors but the choke given to me is 18milihenry. will this be ok? really appreciate any help.

    Thanks
     
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