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xbox steering wheel

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting and Repair' started by old8s, Jul 24, 2010.

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  1. old8s

    old8s

    30
    0
    Jul 24, 2010
    ok this pic is of an xbox 360 force fed steering wheel power pcb
    the fuse was blown so i solderd red and back wires to it to hook up a slow blow 2amp fuse
    problem is that L1 is cooked and fuse blows as L1 is getting red hot

    what is this ciruit ? im not shre what its doing

    the power supply pack is 24v 1.0a and im thinking its 24vac but it only says
    24v
    i think curcit is 24vac to 24vdc rectifier but might be 24vdc to 12vdc
    the steering wheel needs to run a eletric motor

    in pos trace goes to f1 to d1 striped side then runds to f1 { c6 bridges f1
    in neg trace goes to d1 then runs to f1 { c6 bridges f1

    f1 has 4 leggs 2 @ the top where these traces run to and c6 bridges
    and 2 @ bottem
    from the bottem f1 neg goes to power out but has c5 conected to d2
    from the bottem f1 pos is conected to d2 and d2 striped end is power out

    what is this curcit for what dose it do can i build a new one
    all parts have markings numbers except for f1 is f1 a coil

    http://www.overclockers.com.au/pix/image.php?id=wxv63&f=1
     
  2. old8s

    old8s

    30
    0
    Jul 24, 2010
    beginners

    the pwer pack to run this is
    input 110-240v - 50-60hz
    48-62va 0.80a (0.80a)
    output 24v 1.0a



    being xbox i imagin the other pcb`s are 5v

    and im guessing the motor would be at least 12vdc looking on the other pcb i can see 24v written on it and also 5v

    so im guessing the pcb that id like to repair or repace is just a 24vac to 24vdc rectifier

    anther question
    how can i tell what the other pcb needs to power it
    what wuld happen if i bypass the circit and run 5v to the other board
    or if i under power the pcb
    :eek:
     
  3. old8s

    old8s

    30
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    Jul 24, 2010
    pic

    better pic
     

    Attached Files:

  4. Resqueline

    Resqueline

    2,848
    2
    Jul 31, 2009
    It seems just to be a reverse polarity & overvoltage protection circuit. It's not "powered" in the usual sense and it's of no use bypassing or altering it.
    Check D2 for shorts if the fuse also blows when W13 is not connected. If it blows only when the rest of the box is connected then there's a short in the box.
     
  5. old8s

    old8s

    30
    0
    Jul 24, 2010
    ok

    ok ill have to get my molty out and check as it blows when w13 is not conected

    can anything be worng with L1 as it gets realy hot before fuse blows
    the fuse was maked 3a459
    i was using a 3a slow blow fuse but im thinking i might of damaged L1 as the powerpack is only 1a
    fuse should therfore be 1a
    sorry for being a pain but im trying to teach my self about eltronics something id love to get to know more of

    a little more help
    i spent time just looking and found f1 so i thought fuse read 3a 459 and thought 3amp
    unpicked fuse off board and shorted across with 2amp wire light came on unit( working yes )
    i then solderd wires to conect 3amp slow blow fuse from tandy`s and thats when L1 started to overheat and fuse blew

    when shorting with 2amp wire i used a 7w ion run from battery
    dont ask me why but when soldering wires to conect and relocate fuse i used 25w ion
    im thinking that was my trouble write there dumb idea

    it looks like a simple circit i can read markings on d1 and d2 but not L1
    and how do i read c6 c5 very very tiny

    small thing give big troubles lol

    cheers all
     
    Last edited: Aug 1, 2010
  6. old8s

    old8s

    30
    0
    Jul 24, 2010
    thinking more

    also this is a force feed wheel has a dc motor in it
    so if you stall the motor you get a revese current hence fuse blows (right-wrong?)
    might have been origanal porblem
    then i turned up lol

    if all else fails would it would be easyer to build new pcb
    what will i need to know

    any help apriceated
    Glen
     
  7. old8s

    old8s

    30
    0
    Jul 24, 2010
    well i got my multi meter out and d2 only passes curent out
    d1 however passes current both ways
     
  8. Resqueline

    Resqueline

    2,848
    2
    Jul 31, 2009
    Ok, I enlarged the picture and I see now that D1 is across the supply after the fuse, so that's the overvoltage protection (& maybe reverse protection too). This blows fuse.
    I'm not quite sure about the fuse rating. It could be a 3A with a 459 characteristic (whatever that would be, could be ultrafast). Usually they're marked quite clearly.
    I'm also confused about the use of L1 & D2. I've never seen anything like L1 before. Depending on what it's made of it could still be ok, but try to Ohm it after removing D1.
    Mind you L1 seems to have 4 terminals, so it could be a dual coil passing both + & -. I guess it should pass current along the long sides and isolate on the short sides.
    It could be just a so-called common-mode filter choke for interference suppression. If broken it can be replaced with wires. A 24-5V regulator will be found on the main pcb.
    Just Ohm the small caps, they can short out on rare occations. I don't see your soldering of F1 could have damaged D1, nor the purpose of building a new pcb.
     
  9. old8s

    old8s

    30
    0
    Jul 24, 2010
    yes

    thats what i was thinking
    d2 is just one way current
    and yes L1 has 4 legs this is what i think it is

    nex question diode is stamped
    EP
    C647
    know any good sites to look up parts or cross referance lol
    not imagin this to be easy micrsoft part
    can i use any diode lol was thinking of through hole diode easyer to get

    i havent removed D1 from board yet but have put molty across L1 and yes get resistance so not shorted guessing

    :) getting happy
     
  10. old8s

    old8s

    30
    0
    Jul 24, 2010
    try that agian

    well last post didnt post the pic so i hope its attached:rolleyes:
     

    Attached Files:

  11. old8s

    old8s

    30
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    Jul 24, 2010
    thanks

    hey i been forgetting to say thanks resquline
    i appriceate the effort and feedback your putting in

    especialy for helping a novis like me :rolleyes: :rolleyes: lol
    thanks agian

    Glen :)
     
  12. old8s

    old8s

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    Jul 24, 2010
    ok lifted d1 off board seems to be ok power passes from the anode to cathode
    but not back multi reads 646 lol funny cose d1 says C647 pritty close i recon lol
    anyhow c5 shows some rezistance 77.7
    but c6 00.0 :mad:

    hmmmmmm ???? its so tiny had to get the eye pice out of the binoculars and its black in colour with no markings
    how in the hell would you put that on a board

    what would a capasitor do between pos and neg try and humm
    the old valves where good at that

    i guess lol
    or just maybe cause a short

    s d1 is lifted off the board
    fuse is shorted out multimetre reads a closed circit across pos in and neg in

    NEXT question why do i need c6 :eek::eek::eek::eek:
     
  13. old8s

    old8s

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    Jul 24, 2010
    thought id do something funny
    and blow another fuse
    d1 not conected
    pcb not conected to wheel
    put power to pcb L1 gets hot fuse blows
    so know im thinking C5 is short and its right next to solderd fuse wire i solderd dam:mad:
    how would i posibly change that
     
  14. old8s

    old8s

    30
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    Jul 24, 2010
    off the mark

    well i might be write off the mark here if multimetre reads capacitor as 77.7
    would that be 77.7 oms with 9v battery thats whats in my multimetre
    would i realy need a little tinny one or can it just have the same values yes/no?
     
  15. old8s

    old8s

    30
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    Jul 24, 2010
    i think c5 and c6 are soft power on
    soft pwer off
    or slow power on slow power off as i think a capasitor is realy a broken wire building charge then dumping power across
    when flow stops
    my thoughts or understanding of it
    im thinking when you turn on c6 sucks power
    when you turn off c5 lets it go
    c5 short closed circit L1 overheat
    Guessing again
     
    Last edited: Jul 31, 2010
  16. Resqueline

    Resqueline

    2,848
    2
    Jul 31, 2009
    Hehe, no, nothing magic like that, C5 & 6 are only part of a noise filter. If there's no solder whisker shorting C5 then you can just remove it, it's not crucial to replace it.
     
  17. old8s

    old8s

    30
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    Jul 24, 2010
    o

    o` im funny
    where can i buy a eletronic magic wond tandys lol
     
  18. (*steve*)

    (*steve*) ¡sǝpodᴉʇuɐ ǝɥʇ ɹɐǝɥd Moderator

    25,301
    2,738
    Jan 21, 2010
    I'm sorry, if we told you that we'd have to make you a moderator.
     
  19. old8s

    old8s

    30
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    Jul 24, 2010
    im going to be a moderator
    ask me a question any question go on hardest thing you can think of

    A: i will no encurage you to shop at tandys
    if you do however find your self in a stealers shop act bumd and poor do not under any circumstance incurrage any sales assistant YOU WILL answear your own questions
    this will only result in taking home there rubish and filing your bin IF YOU FAIL to relise where youve been shopping you may end up putting the rest of what you where trying to fix in there also

    i the novis have warrned you
     
    Last edited: Jul 31, 2010
  20. old8s

    old8s

    30
    0
    Jul 24, 2010
    ok so now i think d2 is Thyristors
    >because wheel is radio controll unit lol

    this wheel is 2006 model

    capasitor plauge

    i will remove and ??? C

    ok im going to build a desk and light to work at with something to hold Onto job while i work
    SOMETHING TO HOLD EYEPIECE as well he he ha ha

    smal job calls for mountain builing
     
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