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Wireless 3-way light switches

Discussion in 'Hobby Electronics' started by Rob Stirling, Nov 23, 2005.

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  1. Rob Stirling

    Rob Stirling Guest

    I have a large room with a door at each end. There is a light switch
    near one door and I want one near the other door (3 way light switch)
    but I can't rewire inside the walls.

    I wonder if there is a wireless solution where I can add a 2nd wireless
    switch that transmits to a receiver inside the existing switch. I'm not
    looking for a full home automation setup costing megabucks though.

    Thanks in advance
  2. mark jb

    mark jb Guest

    I have a large room with a door at each end. There is a light switch
    Only thing I can find that may help would be a wireless IR remote switch
    from HPM
    (, products, electronics & automation, excel range remote
    controlled switch)

    Install in place of one switch, secure remote where you want "switch #3" to
    be located.

  3. I saw a wireless light switch at Bunnings a while back, can't remember
    details though, worth taking a look.

    Dave :)
  4. Ken Taylor

    Ken Taylor Guest

    X10 modules are cheap enough for a simple job like this:

    Replace the existing switch, put in a wireless switch and a plug-in bayonet
    fitting receiver.


  5. Runtime

    Runtime Guest

    to have 3 way switching ( not wireless ) the intyermidate switch in the
    middle is conected to the other switches ( it is a special switch) The
    only way I can think of doing what you want is to use a product similar
    to hunter pacific fan controler it uses wireless remote control which
    can be set to only work with that controler. This would be conected to
    the light (receiver) and controller ( transmitter) can be placed in
    room say near door or carried with you. NOTE this controler also has a
    light output. The standard model is about $60 and the deluxe $100.
  6. Rob Stirling

    Rob Stirling Guest

    Thanks to all who replied. I used the solution from Bunnings mentioned
    by Dave - thanks!

    This consisted of a SwitchLink 240V AC receiver ($40) and two
    SwitchLink 12V battery-powered transmitters ($30 each). The receiver
    is about the size of a deck of cards and I installed it inside the
    ceiling light fitting - if you had space inside your wall cavity behind
    the light switch you could put it there - and it was a breeze to wire
    it up. The transmitters are also about the size of a deck of cards and
    stick to the wall with double-sided tape. They use radio frequency
    with a range of about 50m and there are 256 channels to avoid
    interference. I then needed a 3-gang light switch ($10) to replace the
    4-gang one, since the receiver is now always on. Came to $110 all up,
    plus half an hour's work.

    The only thing I don't like about it is that the transmitters do not
    look much like a normal light switch. I looked at putting the
    transmitter's electronic guts into a normal light switch case, but it
    is not trivial because the transmitter uses two momentary switches for
    on and off. So now I have a SwitchLink transmitter with a normal light
    switch next to it for the other lights. Oh well... still much cheaper
    and less messy than cutting a channel into the walls and repainting.

  7. Cool.
    You'd think they'd be able to make the transmitter smaller though,
    keyfob size.
    Definitely easier than running cable in some walls!
    Are the remote buttons rugged enough to last with daily use?

    Dave :)
  8. Rob Stirling

    Rob Stirling Guest

    The electronics is small enough, I had a look inside the case. It's
    designed to be stuck to a wall. If you hardwired the frequency
    selecting dials you could shrink it quite a bit.
    I think they will last, the switches are similar to what's used in a
    mouse button so they should outlast the other wiring in the house! I
    don't know what battery consumption is like, the battery is a tiny 12V
    cell smaller than a AAA.

    Chris, I don't know what the power consumption of the receiver is like,
    I guess it may be written on the original packaging. Most of what is
    inside the case would be a ACDC transformer, it doesn't seem to get hot
    like a downlight transformer so I hope its not as much. (I found out
    too late about how much power DC downlights use... I fell for the
    salesperson's "240V downlights are a horrible yellow colour" pitch.
    Now I have about 200W of lighting in my kitchen to get the same
    brightness as a 60W incandescent... or a 14W Philips energy saver! :-(

    Good idea of getting a spare receiver, though I'm not really lightning
    prone. I could have left the original switch on the wall, but that
    would have been non-optimal :).

  9. ,

    , Guest

    But you wouldn't want the dismal ghostly light of one of those fluoros
    would you?
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