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Will salvaged computer parts work? Even after in the rain?

Discussion in 'Electronic Repair' started by [email protected], Jun 17, 2006.

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  1. jakdedert

    jakdedert Guest

    Okay. Let's do this. This thread has gotten way too long, with way too
    little info given. It's an easy fix. First, determine that the fan is
    fixable: spin the blades by hand. If they do NOT turn freely, then
    probably a fix is possible. If spin easily, the problem is electrical
    and a lost cause.

    Look at the fan. On one side is usually an adhesive paper label.
    When you peel that off, you expose the inner hub where the bearings
    reside. Squirt some sort of solvent in there (I've used WS 40, contact
    cleaner, LPS, Liquid Wrench or brake cleaner). Turn the fan blade until
    it moves freely. At this point, I usually connect to power and let the
    fan spin for several seconds, to work the solvent into the bearings.

    Dump out the solvent and repeat. Blow all the excess solvent out.
    Replace with a few drops of light oil (like 'Three-in-One). Seal the
    hole with the original label. Add some tape for security (make sure to
    thoroughly clean the surface of the hub, or the tape/label will not stick).

    It should power up now. Use a car battery for your 12v source. If it
    doesn't, see how far you can throw it....

    BTW, this is more mechanical than electrical, if that makes it less
    intimidating for the OP.

  2. Guest

    Just took it apart and cleaned it. The motor will work for about 1/2 a
    revolution before quitting. When manually moving the blade it sticks
    solid after 1/2 a revolution. So I will add some solvent to the mix and
    hopefully have a working fan on my hands.
  3. b

    b Guest

    ha escrito:
    when you say it sticks solid, make sure it isnt something simple like
    the fan blades snarling against the plastic support struts of the fan's
    structure. they can break (especially if you press hard during removal
    of the fan from the machine, for example) and obstruct the fan.
  4. judges123

    judges123 Guest

    Back to the caps> If your looking at [email protected] then if they are not
    swelled on the top (ESR meter is nice) then if you can pull them do so.
    These kill powersupply and m/board.
  5. Mark Fortune

    Mark Fortune Guest

    i've had one - an AD0812HS - start on as low as 2.8v, stalled at 2.7v
    and even go up to ~20v. Most computer fans these days I think are
    designed to run off variable voltage control so the fans can run slowly
    when the pc is cold, and run faster as the temperature increases.
  6. Mark Fortune

    Mark Fortune Guest

    This is how I learned electronics as a kid - the woods out the back of
    my house always seemed to have an endless supply of broken radios, tv's,
    video recorders, burnt out cars/motorbikes, used condoms etc. An
    infinate supply, it seemed, of electronic components. so I learned how
    to unsolder stuff, learned what the components did... and it didnt
    matter if I wired them up wrong and made them go *pop* because it was
    all free, and there was always replacement parts to play with.
  7. Mark Fortune

    Mark Fortune Guest

    I'm just trying to clarify here so forgive me if I sound pedantic... was
    the fan still connected to the power supply circuitry when you tested
    it? or had it been removed from circuit to test as an individual component?
  8. Rory Deol

    Rory Deol Guest

    I had removed it from the power supply, but unfortunately in my haste
    to fix it ended up breaking it. I think the ultimate problem was that
    the rod on the fan was bent causing it to spin erradically and get
    stuck. However, the next day I came across a working one from a trashed
    computer. Oh yeah, your post about learning electronics is similar to
    my situation. I did make the terrible mistake of working with what I
    thought was a busted disposable camera and nearly jumped out of my skin
    when I recieved a rather surprising and painful electrick shock from
    the flash. It won't stop me from tinkering but it will sure caution me.
  9. Puckdropper

    Puckdropper Guest

    My general rule of thumb is to be very careful if I see any capacitors.
    The bigger they are, the bigger the jolt.

  10. Mark Fortune

    Mark Fortune Guest

    Been there, done that, not likely to do it again
    Good advice, but check the voltage rating on the caps too. Sometimes
    even a physically small cap can be rated at a few hundred volts. As a
    general rule of thumb anything over 50v I class as potentially painful.

    Also, make sure you know everything you need to know, and have good
    training about CRT monitors and televisions before you even consider
    taking the back off one of these as the picture tube is essentially a
    massive high voltage (20,000 - 40,000volts) capacitor which can be very
    nasty - potentially fatal (bear in mind that even 0.5% of this voltage
    is enough to kill you). The best advice on these is to stear clear of
    them. The only reason I mention this is because I know that curiosity +
    ignorance is a dangerous thing, and a few times in my youth i've played
    around with something only to learn later that I should be dead.

    I would say i'm fairly competent with most things electrical, and i've
    had my fair share of high voltage shocks along my path to enlightenment
    but even so, the first time I had to discharge a CRT, with my knowledge
    of the inherent dangers it took me 2 hours to find the balls to do it,
    and had to change my underwear at least 3 times.
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